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Parks450's super duper build

Discussion in 'RC Builds and Projects' started by parks450, Feb 1, 2018.

  1. olds97_lss

    olds97_lss Well-Known Member

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    Not a huge fan of all the alloy on that thing, but it sure looks nice.

    I ran the SRC terrain crushers on my brushless revo for a while, spun one of the hexes when I put them on my savage flux. If your intending on doing a lot of jumping, I'd suggest a different tire as those give you no cushion whatsoever on landings. They also get nearly no forward bite on anything but pavement, which can be a good thing if your wanting to keep stress off your diffs/cvd's as in the grass, there's a lot of wheel spin. On concrete, they drive like your on rails though.

    I'm now running pro-line trenchers (not the X's, just normal) and really like the plush feeling they give on landings. Plus, the grip on most surfaces is phenomenal. Also, the tread quantity seems to hold up well even for pavement running.

    I have a NIB picco p3 that I never ran, in case your in need of parts. It's not modified like yours of course, but I'd be willing to let it go for the right price. I doubt I'll ever run it in anything as I have LRP's in 2 of my nitros and an OS21TM in one of my revos.
     
  2. parks450

    parks450 Well-Known Member
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    I will run them and see what they are like. I can see what you mean though with no cushion. I'll likely pick another set up once I get it all together and running.
     
  3. parks450

    parks450 Well-Known Member
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    Anyone have experience with these shocks? They would look sick on my savage I think, I know they are likely softer being for a regular yeti, if so though I can always run 8. I know they are shorter which isn't a big deal, but not sure if they will boot up or not at all. Screenshot_20180213-173716.png
     
  4. Jam Racing 1

    Jam Racing 1 NPTB Monitor, Master of the known universe....
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    fitment shouldn't be a problem but they are alot shorter 50+mm than savage shocks are 130mm/5.100 inches for the RC4WD versus 170mm/ 6 1/2 inches for a big bore, but all that is going to depend on your surface you are running on so if it is gonna be a pavement only rig it will probably get by ok.... but for jumps and offroad you will sure lose much of the suspension travel...
     
  5. parks450

    parks450 Well-Known Member
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    That's true. I do hit jumps but nothing extreme. I just like them they are sharp
     
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  6. olds97_lss

    olds97_lss Well-Known Member

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    The springs also look really thin, so probably too soft for a savage. Unless you ran 8.
     
  7. parks450

    parks450 Well-Known Member
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    I see the king shocks have a 17mm OD spring, anyone know the hpi big bore spring OD? Could swap springs if that's the case
     
  8. Jam Racing 1

    Jam Racing 1 NPTB Monitor, Master of the known universe....
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    Big bore id is 17 mm od is 21 mm
     
  9. parks450

    parks450 Well-Known Member
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    Oh wow, that's a big difference. Well dam lol. Was hoping those would be more of a match
     
  10. parks450

    parks450 Well-Known Member
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    Was able to get a slider out of it today lol, swapped the flm plates to the new xl tvp. Have to say I like to look a lot better. If anyone is interested I'm selling the regular length flm tvp. received_2382214321804363.jpeg
     
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  11. parks450

    parks450 Well-Known Member
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    Got some more done. After I got it this far I realized I had the rear diff in backwards lol. Should have the rest of my parts tomorrow except the body. Finally coming together, should have it finished next week hooefully. 20180216_125316.jpg
     
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  12. Northernnightmare

    Northernnightmare Active Member

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    Good job so far, cant wait to see the cool body your doing!

    We just got a hydro dipper in town, but its kinda $$$ to do the outside of a unbreakable body so i'll just leave it black.
     
  13. rcaircraftnut

    rcaircraftnut Active Member

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    Are those flm tvp your selling the lcg ones? Also how much?
     
  14. parks450

    parks450 Well-Known Member
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    Yes they are.
     
  15. parks450

    parks450 Well-Known Member
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    Thanks man, it can be pretty pricey but it is very slick. A lot cheaper than a custom paint job lol
     
  16. parks450

    parks450 Well-Known Member
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    Well got the engine tore apart and cleaned it. It was pretty nasty, probably a good thing I did. Re-oiled it all, installed some dynamite shoes, a new cooling head, new one way and working on sealing it. 20180217_144642.jpg 20180217_144652.jpg
     

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  17. parks450

    parks450 Well-Known Member
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    Made a Little more progress, just need to mount the hellfire tank, and connect the front steering and all that. Hopefully have it fired up next week. Had to take some of the tvp off by the engine, the heat sink screws were touching and it needed to go over as far as possible. Also had to slot the 4 engine mount holes to slide the engine back a touch so it got proper clearance.

    Looks like it had a set of duramax the rods lol :D
    20180217_213900.jpg 20180217_213816.jpg 20180217_213912.jpg 20180217_213949.jpg
     
  18. parks450

    parks450 Well-Known Member
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    Managed to get 30 minutes to work on it tonight before work. 16 hour days suck lol.. mounted the tank on it, had to make the rear bracket for the hellfire tank, ordered aluminum fuel tank mounts, front was a perfect fit. For the rear mount, I just used 3/16 zinc plated square stock.

    20180221_164931.jpg 20180221_164927.jpg 20180221_164918.jpg 20180221_165806.jpg 20180221_164940.jpg
     
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  19. parks450

    parks450 Well-Known Member
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    Also if you lose the clutch bell spacer/bushing. A Losi shock washer works perfect and looks great haha. Really though, it was perfect, even the washer for the screw fit perfect in it. Saved me a trip to the store lol. Also had to clearance the rails a Little to get the scews from the engine heat sink to clear the rails, and had to slot the holes in the engine mounting plate in order to move the engine back a little.
     

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  20. parks450

    parks450 Well-Known Member
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    Well decided to cut up my new era cage lol, little work and it's finished. Having it powder coated tomorrow, probably black. received_2395000657192396.jpeg
     
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  21. NightFlier X4.6

    NightFlier X4.6 Well-Known Member

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    Looking good parks.
     
  22. olds97_lss

    olds97_lss Well-Known Member

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    Since you have the ability to weld, you might want to put some X bracing in the long horizontal sections before getting it powder coated.
     
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  23. parks450

    parks450 Well-Known Member
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    That is actually a really good idea. May have to go snag it bag from my powder coater.
     
  24. parks450

    parks450 Well-Known Member
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    Ok added a few braces, what you guys think? This thing reminds me of an old caddy with the long ass front end haha 20180223_145224.jpg
     
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  25. olds97_lss

    olds97_lss Well-Known Member

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    Should hold up better now! Is that solid wire or tube?
     
  26. parks450

    parks450 Well-Known Member
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    Solid cold rolled, I tried finding that small tube steel locally with no luck, and I live in a very industrial type city.
     
  27. olds97_lss

    olds97_lss Well-Known Member

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    I meant was the original hollow or solid? I have a new era 3 point roll bar on one of my revo's, it's as big around as my pinky, but hollow. I had an RC Raven roll cage back in the day that was solid wire, but didn't look as thick as yours.
     
  28. parks450

    parks450 Well-Known Member
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    Ah ok, no it's tube steel not solid. My last one was pretty strong, I had quite a few hard hit on it and no dents or dings.
     
  29. parks450

    parks450 Well-Known Member
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    Well almost finished it, waiting on the cage which will be done Monday. Body is getting done by my buddy in a few weeks and she will be complete. Had it out a little running, wow this thing is insane compared to my last one. Had to lock the slipper completely, was slipping pretty bad. I noticed it didn't steer as good as my other one though. Going to try and adjust that a little.

    Swapped my big bore shocks over to the integy big bores. My big bores were leaking like something fierce. I tripple o-ringed the bottom of the integys and used slime on them, I really hope they don't leak lol. Used the stiff springs that came with them, sits much better and feels a lot smoother. I had to trim a ton off the integy steering bell crank crossover piece, it is going to bend eventually lol. I have the flm piece, trying to figure out a bushing to work with the integy piece. May have to have one machined. It basically needs to be the same bushing that is included in the flm steering crossover but a couple mm longer. Anyone have a few ideas?

    Anyways on to the pics: 20180224_181721.jpg 20180224_181642.jpg 20180224_181708.jpg 20180224_181701.jpg 20180224_181650.jpg 20180224_185743.jpg
     
    #59 parks450, Feb 24, 2018
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2018
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  30. parks450

    parks450 Well-Known Member
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    Got the cage on, looks pretty sharp. Just waiting on the body now l, likely be another week or two. 20180228_045400.jpg 20180228_045223.jpg 20180227_204326.jpg
     
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