OPERATION: Savage..............

[Londoner]

Thanks Steller!! The servo arm came from an Ebay seller called Jhocheung in hong kong fairly cheap too.

Hitec: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/aluminum-serv...&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14&_trkparms=|293:1|294:30

Futaba: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/aluminum-serv...id=p4634.c0.m14.l1262&_trkparms=|293:1|294:30

And JR/KO: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/aluminum-serv...id=p4634.c0.m14.l1262&_trkparms=|293:1|294:30

I think they are Integy arms, I'm not sure or at least they are very good copies.

Integy links,

Hitec: http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p_prodid=6168&p_catid=98

Futaba: http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p_prodid=6169&p_catid=98

JR/KO: http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p_prodid=6167&p_catid=98

The only bad thing i will say about them is the two side clamp screws are stainless so the hex rounds out as soon as you show them a hex wrench, let alone try to tighten them up lol, so they need to be replaced with some better screws if you want to get them tightened up on your servo splines nice n good, other than that i think they are great!

 

[frddyj]

I have a 19t CB on its way to me, but i don't think il get in, the pullstarter is already touching the TVP almost, i don't think the engine will move over enough with the 47t spur in there, so now I'm thinking flux 45t steel spur hmmm lol 19/45??

London, just watched your vids & that mill is a beastie boy! if you replace the motor mount screws with button-heads, it should slide under the tvp rail so allowing you to use a 47/19 combo. this worked for me with 18/47.

have a look http://i35.tinypic.com/n5rbjo.jpg

 

[Londoner]

Thanks Freddy! Yea I'm running the button head screws on the TVP side of the engine mount, but the problem is at the backplate/pullstarter, it is much much wider than the block, using 18/47 at the moment and theres only about -/+ .5mm more that i can move the engine over before it touches the TVP, the description of the LRP .30 says it uses a beefed up new design pullstarter or something or other especially for .30 size engines.

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The stock XL 52t steel spur is also an option part for the flux, so i assume that the smaller 45 and 44t flux steel spurs will fit on X/XL transmissions, I'm sure i read the slipper pads are the same part number too, so i may give 19/45 a try, i may have to lengthen the mounting holes in the engine plate some to move the engine closer to the spur, or do you think this gearing will be far too tall?

 

[Londoner]

Just took a quick measurement of the LRP .30 backplate against my K4.6, the K is 33mm wide, and the LRP is 38mm wide, -/+ 1mm

 

[frddyj]

oh wow. ya, i couldnt remember if you had .28 or .30 before i made that post (and i was too lazy to start from beginning of thread lol)

pic worth a 1000 words tho & now we know in case others have same prob.

 

[Londoner]

Lol yea, i can always understand pics better than a description, i couldnt get a clear enough pic with my phone cam so had stick my digi cam batteries in the RC fast charger for 10mins coz for some reason my cam dock wont charge the cam anymore. PITA cameras lol

 

[Londoner]

Just found this on Ebay Uk, http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=300330817806

one of these was actually gonna be my next purchase, £5gbp posted, should be here by tuesday next week, what a result!!

 

[Londoner]

Ok a pic for ya not on my wooden floor indoors lol

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I'm not sure whats going on but in third she just don't wanna get up to RPM all that quick, on grass shes fine but on the gravelly sandy dusty stuff its like its bogging at top end, as soon as it gets into third its like the revs just die off, iv leaned it up a couple of 1/8th turns on the HSN but anymore and it just coughs and splutters, i think she isnt quite broken in yet, i dunno time will tell, i love it on this stuff though hardly any traction its like hard packed sand/dust with fine gravel on top, like driving on ball bearings lol

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[MikeK1981]

sweet truck! I'm wondering about the small piece of tubing you have for the stinger extension. Did you buy that or did you make it yourself? I like how it has the bend in it so you don't have ot turn the pipe sideways as I've seen some people do.

 

[Londoner]

Cheers Mike!! Its a Dynamite (i think) deflector, large size, the guy in the RC shop i bought the savvy from threw it in when i bought it along with a fuel tank lid puller thing, i just bought a yellow one from ebay but didnt think to look at the size on the description and ended up with a medium one lol which looks far too small, oh well I'm not gonna send it all the way back to the USA it was only a couple of $.

But yea it does a great job keeping the oil and crud off the chassis, but tends to throw it onto the right rear wheel instead.

 

[Londoner]

My Dynamite 086 arrived today.

Not bad for $32 posted from the USA i think, with the exception of some scuffing on the pipe where it had been rubbing on the last RC and the original set screw in the end of the pipe for the hanger wire was missing and replaced with a normal hex head screw its pretty much perfect condition, had a little fitment issue with it https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11833 but all is good now.

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[Londoner]

Recieved my FLM steering drag link yesterday, got it fitted just now.

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I think it has reduced some of the slop in the steering, which is good lol i had a lot of steering slop.

 

[Londoner]

Had enough now

As the title states.......

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And this is what did it at about 10mph lmao...... pathetic

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The Dyna 086 is absolutely useless on this engine, its like the engine is dead at any RPM no power, far better on the HPI polished pipe, tried tuning again today and any slight turn on the HSN n it just coughs n splutters, iv lost 1st-2nd, seems like its pulling away in second, and as soon as it hits third the RPM just dies off and seems like I'm only giving half throttle when its at WOT and doesnt gain any RPM.

I was so angry the truck got thrown across the park and the Tx got launched at a concrete wall and is now smashed up.

Il get another cheap stock Tx from eBay then its going up for sale on Modelsport UK, try and re-coup some of my losses, i refuse to spend any more money on broken parts that shouldnt break, running in a straight line up and down the park its fine, but as soon as i have any fun with it it breaks and iv had enough....

 

[Fx]

Were the shocks new or used? Dude that stinks. Try not to take this the wrong way but I busted out laughing when you said you chucked you Tx at a concrete wall. Are you sure your selling it?

 

[Londoner]

Yea they were new mate, from eBay US, i put the alloy caps and yellow springs on tho, so far theyve only seen a gallon on the K4.6 and around 3/4 of a gallon on the LRP, ya know i wouldnt mind so much if i was abusing the truck and launching it 20 feet into the air but this truck will be lucky if it see's a foot of air! most of the time its just run around the local park.

lol i don't blame ya for laughing, if you was there I'm sure youd be rolling around the floor in laughter, i think i scared my son a bit tho so i do feel bad for venting in front of him.

I dunno, the way i feel now i don't even wanna look at the truck, i may calm down later and change my mind and decide to throw even more of my hard earned at it.

Itl need a new shock tho, i thought maybe the bottom nut had popped out but the shock body is actually split at the seam, i cant get them in the UK so if i do decide to repair it itl be another 2 week wait for bits from the USA.

 

[Fx]

Yea they were new mate, from eBay US, i put the alloy caps and yellow springs on tho, so far theyve only seen a gallon on the K4.6 and around 3/4 of a gallon on the LRP, ya know i wouldnt mind so much if i was abusing the truck and launching it 20 feet into the air but this truck will be lucky if it see's a foot of air! most of the time its just run around the local park.

lol i don't blame ya for laughing, if you was there I'm sure youd be rolling around the floor in laughter, i think i scared my son a bit tho so i do feel bad for venting in front of him.

I dunno, the way i feel now i don't even wanna look at the truck, i may calm down later and change my mind and decide to throw even more of my hard earned at it.

Itl need a new shock tho, i thought maybe the bottom nut had popped out but the shock body is actually split at the seam, i cant get them in the UK so if i do decide to repair it itl be another 2 week wait for bits from the USA.

I feel for you. I would just not even look at it for a week or two then if you still feel you want to sell it, then go for it.

 

[Londoner]

Yea, il do that, i guess if i were to sell it i wouldnt get nowhere near as much back as i put into it, but i feel like everything iv done to improve the truck and supposedly make it stronger has been a waste of money, the wheels are now ready for the bin too, one front and one rear hex are stripped, the dyna 086-waste of money, gotta investgate the transmission problem too or i could just put my 2 speed back in, diffs are constantly going......... aaarrrrgh!!! lol

 

[Shaun]

wow sorry to hear about that, i've had those days myself.....

 

[Londoner]

Yea its one of those days Sadsack definately lol

I do remember seeing a set of hard anodized threaded shock bodies on eBay once before, the shaft isnt bent il see if i can find them again and see how much they are.

I'm calming down now and thinking of repairing and not selling lol

:thinking: now about this 3rd gear problem, i just cant understand why the RPM is dying off in third, and why i cant tune at all, its running so rich that it wont idle for more than a few seconds before stalling and I'm getting loads of smoke, but when i try to lean it up a bit it wont run without spluttering and coughing, like er er er errrrrr er eerrr er errrrr until i richen back to factory settings, sorry the only way i can explain lol and maybe the 1st-2nd adjuster has wound out and its just going thru the two and I'm not noticing it i dunno?

I also got the HPI temp gun and I'm getting 280+ temps at the block at stock settings so i think its way out of whack another waste of money lol its all going wrong at once and i havnt even done 2 gallons on this build yet!!

 

[Combuster]

if the mill is not sealed try sealing it, here is a good thread on how to seal, also check fuel tank and lines for leaks.

https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2572

 

[Londoner]

Thanks Combuster, il seal her up and see if that makes any difference and pressure test my tank, fuel lines are new but il check them over anyway, I'm hoping maybe she don't wanna be tuned yet cos shes not fully broken in?

The hard anodised threaded shock bodies are on order now, ordered a full set of four and a new HPI Tx :duh: lol, just lookin at wheels n tyres now but adding it all up i really cant afford it at the moment :$broke: itl have to be in a month or two, il just glue my hexes into the rims for now and get a new hex set cheap on ebay when i get the new wheels, hey my tyre beads are all glued now so why break the trend with these Axial beadlocks lol thank god for CA!!

TBH my secret plan was to send the engine to Extreme Rc for mods in a month or so but that will have to wait aswell now cos i have to spend that money on the shock bodies and wheels/tyres, i also wanted a PRC wing mount kit too, oh well.

I would put the stock shocks back on but i donated 4 of them to my friend for his 25 after he let someone have a go of it and they decked it into a tree bending two shocks, so i gave him 2 plus 2 spare, and 2 of the 4 i have left have bent shafts, I'm too nice for my own good lol

 

[Londoner]

Or it could just be the damn 086 pipe, the last time i ran her before today was on the HPI pipe just last saturday and she was running sweet, very rich but sweet still.

And today on the 086 its like whole different kettle of fish, hmm il wait for the shock bodies, put the HPI pipe back on and see how that goes before i start doing anything else.

 

[Combuster]

maybe your right about it being broken in becuase this guy on rcuniverse said it took him about a gallon to break in because the pinch was so tight

 

[Londoner]

Thanks man, yea I'm hoping so lol

Ok so this is the split shock body, i thought it had split at the seam but it hasn't! they must weak as hell!! Also the shaft is slightly bent.

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So to go with the new hard anodized bodies iv ordered a set of Ti Ni shafts and two new bottom cartridges, one to replace the one on the busted shock cos i dunno if the seal has been damaged or not under the strain and one to keep spare, and a load of 45wt silicon shock oil.

I forgot i ordered a 25 style roll bar in gold some time ago and that arrived today, just a few extra holes needed to be drilled to make it fit, what ya think??

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Oh and iv taken the wing off for now untill i get a proper mounting plate, I'm too worried itl rip the I-RC LST kit off the shock tower the way i had it mounted.

 

[texasavage]

Cool I'm glad you didn't lose focus Personally I don't like the aluminum rollbars, they don't flex. I have a few of them all mangled up. Unless your better at landing on your wheels than I am of course.:lmao4:

 

[MikeK1981]

If it were me I would just have threw some small zip ties around the split shock body and maybe a bit of CA also for good measure and kept using it. Ghetto style! Well, maybe just for the day LOL, it would probably still leak out the oil.

 

[martin34]

Hope you get things sorted Londoner.I have just read all 12 pages and its a great build thread.

 

[88gtanotchback]

if you have any more issues with the shocks londoner just switch it over to the HPI big bores. i really like the build you've done and continue to do. with that pipe, it should work. have you tried resetting the needles back to factory and retuning? this may be an easier way, then just lean out till performance is achieved. sealing the engine is a good idea to cause with a leak you will constantly be chasing a tune. also get an after market radio. id suggest spektrum, however I'm mad at mine right now. lol so a futaba 2.4 would work sweet and i guarantee no more wall throws with it. lol. keep up the good work bro and hopefully things start to go your way so you can get enjoying that beast of a truck again.

 

[Londoner]

Cool I'm glad you didn't lose focus Personally I don't like the aluminum rollbars, they don't flex. I have a few of them all mangled up. Unless your better at landing on your wheels than I am of course.:lmao4:

Yea twas just a mad moment Texas, me sell my savage lol no way.

Yea i thought the same things about the alu roll bar, but i got it for next to nothing on eBay USA, was something like $4 + $3 shipping, worked out to be around £4.50gbp i think, less than a pack of cigs so when it gets wrecked i wont be bothered at all and il just throw the nylon one back on.

If it were me I would just have threw some small zip ties around the split shock body and maybe a bit of CA also for good measure and kept using it. Ghetto style! Well, maybe just for the day LOL, it would probably still leak out the oil.

LOL mike, if it wasnt for me destroying the Tx i probably would have lol

Hope you get things sorted Londoner.I have just read all 12 pages and its a great build thread.

Thanks Martin, wow 12 pages i never realised, i have my CP settings set to 40 posts per page so i only see 3 pages, less page loading that way, maybe its time to start bringing this thread to a close lol

if you have any more issues with the shocks londoner just switch it over to the HPI big bores. i really like the build you've done and continue to do. with that pipe, it should work. have you tried resetting the needles back to factory and retuning? this may be an easier way, then just lean out till performance is achieved. sealing the engine is a good idea to cause with a leak you will constantly be chasing a tune. also get an after market radio. id suggest spektrum, however I'm mad at mine right now. lol so a futaba 2.4 would work sweet and i guarantee no more wall throws with it. lol. keep up the good work bro and hopefully things start to go your way so you can get enjoying that beast of a truck again.

Cheers 88, yea my next build will be on HPI big bores, hopefully from a broken up flux on eBay, iv just seen an I-RC 4mm thick 6mm front ext lcg chassis set with I-RC centre skid, lcg engine plate the whole lot for just under half price on a UK RC forum, its been up for sale for a few days so i may go for that for the next one.

The 086 pipe went on with the LRP on factory settings, i havnt done any tuning yet, it seems everytime i try to tune, just a couple of 1/8th turns in on the HSN it runs worse and coughs and splutters to the point of it almost cutting out till i richen back to factory settings again, i wish this engine was as HPI engines and their flush needles, i have to take a note out with me everytime to remind me of the settings, ive put the HPI pipe back on as it was running fine on that and il maybe try the 086 again once the engine is broken in fully, if not itl go on my k4.6 on the next build.

The radio set il be getting in a couple of months as that will probably be the most expensive single purchase of the whole build, il more than like go for the Futaba 3pm fasst, iv been looking around at radio sets and most of the functions you get on the top end radios like the 4pk i think would be wasted on me, i wouldnt know what to do with all those switches and stuff, let alone use them, but i do want 2.4ghz cos most of the places i run are quite close to railway lines and i get plagued with interference from them on the stock gear and always have to find a place in the park where i don't get any.

Today i took the engine apart, well took the head off and backplate, and yea the engine isnt broken in fully, with the head/backplate off theres still some resistance between the piston/sleeve when the flywheel is turned and the piston is still getting stuck slightly at the top of its stroke, after a few turns the piston pushed the sleeve out of the block, i remember taking my k4.6 apart after break in and the piston moved up and down freely in the sleeve with no resistance, so I'm assuming this LRP is nowhere near broken in?

I took a few pics too.

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I assume the black is from the engine running really rich on break in settings??

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I took the transmission apart and found nothing broken, stripped or untoward looking so all looks good there.

 

[MikeK1981]

How much fuel have you run through it? Mine still has a hell of a pinch at the top of the stroke too, and I have run like a gallon and a half through it. In fact the the roto start doesn't like to work well on cold starts. It turns the motor over once and then spins free when the OWB starts slipping. It still works by just pushing the button for a split second and letting off repeatedly kind of like when using a pull start. Once the motor warms up a little it works like a charm though. I have the k5.9 BTW. How long should it take for the motor to loosen up a little bit? Or do I not want it to?