Nitrous Injection

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I am almost 100% sure the one I bought will work, at least with the radio I have. If not I may take you up on it.

I was thinking about the mixer too, luckly my radio has 4 channels so I wont need it, but thanks guys
 
Mega,

You did a great job installing that system, I have the newer one that I think is a bit smaller and I am haveing a hard time with getting it all in there in a way that I like. Impressive job on that. I see where you put your swich too, looks good.

Did you use a 9v batt to power it? if so where is it? I didnt see it anywhere. I have a email sent to RB to ask what the min and max voltage and current that solenoid can take. It seems to open fine with even 4.8 volts, I think 6 volts will be ok. if not I am thinking about a 7.4 LiPo, or maybe even an 11.1v LiPo, I asked them about that too. I think I can fit a small LiPo in the front of the radio box. we will see.

Oh, how does the super charger work? do you see any noticeable diff in power?

thanks
 
Ok,

I got the electronics worked ont on this so I can activate the n20 as a toggle or as a momentary switch and everything fits in the radio box except for the n20 injector itself.

Here is the wireing diagram
n20_circut.JPG


just have either set the radio to either turn on and hold it on or have it turn on when you hit the button or off when you release it.

the diodes are in the circut for safty, the one on the power line from the rx is just to drop the 6v down .7 volts to keep it under the max voltage of the switch which is 5.5v max. the other diode is just to get rid of spikes that are sometimes caused when switching a coil on and off.
Ofcourse my crap luck had to show itself, I discovered both of my rx's 4th channel doesent work. 2 of them bad, wha's the odds.
 
ShiftPoint said:
Ok,

I got the electronics worked ont on this so I can activate the n20 as a toggle or as a momentary switch and everything fits in the radio box except for the n20 injector itself.

Here is the wireing diagram
n20_circut.JPG


just have either set the radio to either turn on and hold it on or have it turn on when you hit the button or off when you release it.

the diodes are in the circut for safty, the one on the power line from the rx is just to drop the 6v down .7 volts to keep it under the max voltage of the switch which is 5.5v max. the other diode is just to get rid of spikes that are sometimes caused when switching a coil on and off.
Ofcourse my crap luck had to show itself, I discovered both of my rx's 4th channel doesent work. 2 of them bad, wha's the odds.
Click to expand...


Just to be on the safe side I would loose the diode across to coil leads and replace it with a capacitor instead. Doides tend not to offer much surge supression. When you figure the coil inductance and the fact that it will be saturated with current you will want to make it dissapate quickly with a cap and not just redirected with a diode.
 
NITRONUT said:
Just to be on the safe side I would loose the diode across to coil leads and replace it with a capacitor instead. Doides tend not to offer much surge supression. When you figure the coil inductance and the fact that it will be saturated with current you will want to make it dissapate quickly with a cap and not just redirected with a diode.
Click to expand...

Hi, actually a diode is the correct component for this circut. google "diode shunt" actualy on the page where they sell the switch ther recommend one but they call it a "antiparallel diode" (never seen it called that before) Myself I ont think it is even nessessary in this case (becaise it is a mechanical switch supplying power not a transistor or FET) but, just to be on the safe side. Another place you see these "shunts" in the RC world is across electric motors.
 
ShiftPoint said:
Hi, actually a diode is the correct component for this circut. google "diode shunt" actualy on the page where they sell the switch ther recommend one but they call it a "antiparallel diode" (never seen it called that before) Myself I ont think it is even nessessary in this case (becaise it is a mechanical switch supplying power not a transistor or FET) but, just to be on the safe side. Another place you see these "shunts" in the RC world is across electric motors.
Click to expand...


Hey I`ll take your word for it. I have never seen that term used before either. I suppose your right about the switch and if it were a FET then the diode would be all wrong. Is it a glass dioed (zener) or is it a plastic case (power type)???? I usualy see small caps across the motor leads and to the can for noise supperssion. Never saw a diode there but its been a long time since I raced electric anyway.
 
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NITRONUT said:
Hey I`ll take your word for it. I have never seen that term used before either. I suppose your right about the switch and if it were a FET then the diode would be all wrong. Is it a glass dioed (zener) or is it a plastic case (power type)???? I usualy see small caps across the motor leads and to the can for noise supperssion. Never saw a diode there but its been a long time since I raced electric anyway.
Click to expand...

Yes, caps are used for noise supression, zeners or regular diodes come in both packages you can't really tell what kindof diode it is by looking atit. these are regular very common diodes. a cap might work for this but the problem is it would have to be a large cap, what would happen is you would get ocsillation, the cap would charge, then discharge through the coil and then charge again and so on, it may even be enough energy to activate the solenoid a few times before disapating. actually a diode is used with fet's driving motors (and is imporntant to have), usually they are built into the controller, I have a quadrocopter at first it was brushed and it required these diodes across the motors so not to blow the fets on the board, when upgraded to BL the diodes werent nessessary because they built them into the controller.

I got everything working perfectly I will post some pic's as soon as I get them loaded
 
ShiftPoint said:
Yes, caps are used for noise supression, zeners or regular diodes come in both packages you can't really tell what kindof diode it is by looking atit. these are regular very common diodes. a cap might work for this but the problem is it would have to be a large cap, what would happen is you would get ocsillation, the cap would charge, then discharge through the coil and then charge again and so on, it may even be enough energy to activate the solenoid a few times before disapating. actually a diode is used with fet's driving motors (and is imporntant to have), usually they are built into the controller, I have a quadrocopter at first it was brushed and it required these diodes across the motors so not to blow the fets on the board, when upgraded to BL the diodes werent nessessary because they built them into the controller.

I got everything working perfectly I will post some pic's as soon as I get them loaded
Click to expand...


Hey ya learn something new every day.........LOL
Looks like you got it all worked out, Now I wanna see the vid of it in action!
 
I took it out today, its really the first time I have had a chanc to take it out since getting it all hooked up and ofcourse its pouring rain all day.

I took it out for a bit anyway, couldnt do much sas the street is flooded and everything else is soaked but I will tell you this I have the #4 reed valve in it and it made a big difference, even idling. I richened up the needles quite a bit and never got over 190 degrees, first thing I hit the n2o just sitting at idle, it was enough to make the truck take off, also the difference in sound was nice, it causes a deep rumble from the pipe. I don't know how much power it was adding, I can tell you guys I was running it in my back yard which I have down pretty well, at 1 point I hit it and the thing took off so fast on me I slammed into the house.

I the number 4 lets quite a bit of gas out otf the tank and it does seem to slow down working pretty fast, the tank gets very cold, I have a feeling thats causing the gas to stop getting out ogf the tank, it never stopped all the way but you could tell it was not letting the gas out like it adid at first. Maybe the tank is low, I did loose a lot of gas while bulilding it during testing. also I could screw the back on further which I will do next time.

all in all I m very happy with it at this point. just the sound of the motor is enough to make me happy. though.:motorcycle:
 
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I will keep you updated when I get a chance to really give it a go. I will try to get someone over to get some video of it, my cameras that will do video, neither one has sound anymore.
 
took it out again yesterday, it was the first time I had it out and the ground was dry, wow is all I can say, I was still running very rich but this thing when I hit the n20, well it is weird cause I couldnt do it every time but what I was seeing was, I would get it up starting aw wheelie then let off a bit then gun it and the truck actually left the ground maybe a foot off the ground, I was able to do it a couple times after I noticed it the first time, not sure if its the n20 or the wheelie bar hitting and bouncing it up (Just got the wheelie bar too) or what. other than that all I can say is it is causing me to crash into things alot.

I was thinking maybe one of these systems could be made pretty cheap, I saw these while searching for cheaper sources of gas http://cgi.ebay.com/Nitrous-Oxide-CO2-Dispenser-Cracker-for-EZ-Whip-8-g_W0QQitemZ110223901118QQihZ001QQcategoryZ115721QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem there is a bunch of these "crackers" plastic and alu

I was thinking with one of these and a gas valve that is electric switch activated and then use the $20 dollar reed vaulves from RB innovations and you will have a working system at a fraction of the cost of the one they sell.

Just an idea

John
 
Sickly wicked stuff there. Nitrous Savages!!! Wow lol, and its hard enough keeping the wheel on the ground with normal engines lol.
 
I think $180 is too high to install a look at me part unless your racing competitively. you could have purchased a sick motor for that amt of $$
 
I have run NO2 and it was fine. As for racing illegal. I don't know of any sick motors for $180.00. I know some good mid line motors for that price. For a sick motor your looking at over $1000.00 for close to top of the line. Thing is you dress up your vehicle to fit what you like. That is what makes every modded truck original. Will not fault anyone for that.
 
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