New to nitro! 4.6 RTR wont idle during break in

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Hey wister.
Your background in electronics is really cool to have here for support.

I haven't paid too much attention to the LiPo developements since last year.
I do know there finally stable enough to use in RC cars now.

Before, they were primarilly used in model plane, ect.
They were considered to be too unstable and prone to fire or explosion.

I understand they've made improvements in that area and are in Electric Cars.

I have some 1/10th rides myself and been watching for some price dropping on the LiPo's.
$100 for a batt is not cool.They'll come down though.

I do know that LiPo's can be used in the TX. Thats a good thing.

I did a thread on a batt mod around this site somewhere that explains going 7.2 Volts
with the assumption that the reciever can take the overhead voltage with no stress to
the circiutry or servo's.

By doing this, You will have the abbillity to carry alot more amperage and have that
extra umf with 7.2V rather than 6V to turn the steering servo.
 
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OK.....
To answer your Q's...
It appears that samisavage has address some of them already, but I'll repeat.

Note: Because the truck is unable to heat up at higher revs, you should insulate the heat sink with foil or an old sock to
retain the heat faster for a heat cycle to take place.

The Idol trim is highly effective in getting the engine to stay running. I mentioned in an earlier post that it can serve as a
choke of some sorts,
but thats for when the engine is able to stay running when warm.

Like sami said, clear the excess fuel that loads up in the crankcase with some blipping (1/4 throttle pulls) due to the rich
needle settings.

If its to rich, and won't start at all, then lean it abit at the lsn in 1/8th incremments until it starts.
The important part here is to get some oil sprayage from the pipe when at idol, but don't let it die.

This is an area of debate in certain circles here, but you need to blip to clear the fuel. Or at least, lean it just enough so it
doesn't die. Its your choice.

The oils that escape, provide a flow that helps remove metal particals that get freed in the break-in process.
Microscopic aluminum, ect.

This is the hassle part of the break-in and usually clears up pretty fast, but it can seem like the thing is sick or something.
This goes away. After a few tanks, it should get better.

As you continue with the heat cycling. Try to get the temps into the 200's, then kill the engine and place the piston at BDC.

Stoping the mill is explained in the manual.

Let the mill cool completely and then repeat, repeat, repeat, ect.

When you can reach the 225 temp area, It should stay running for you.
Go ahead and drive to reach the temps and repeat the cycling process. After a few tanks of this, you should be getting 10 -15
heatcycles completed on an average.

keep a count of your heat cycles and note your fuel usage as you progress.

I would say after about 30 heats cycles, it's time to have to start having some fun.
keep it as rich as you can till you reach a gallon.

-You should have a good level of smoke when excellerating.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1. The fuel at tower hobbies is a mistery to me. I can't advise you on that one.

2. The Mc coy mc-8 plugs are the only plugs I would use for the mill. The factory plug is known to be garbage.
I would get another 4 plugs or so to have on hand.

I usually buy them in the sheets for a discount at my LHS.

3. Your right on track with marking the flywheel so you know where BDC is. (good one)

4. Before the truck starts to gets covered in dirt and fuel oils,(and it will)
Pick up a large spray can of Nitro Cleanner.
Use it to clean the plug area before you remove the plug.
You don't want any forien material to fall in the plug hole.
This will definately **@k it up.
This is used to keep the engine clean and free of insulating oil build up.
Its also needed when you rebuild you engine.(and you will)
My bud uses automotive grade carb Cleanner.
He gets it alot cheapper at Costco stores by the 6 pack.
He said it works fine and is a 1/6th of the price that LHS charge.

5. Thanks for the 1mm gap explaination. I know what your saying now.

6. I'll check out your link to the battery deal.

Alright, bro. I think your good to go.

Best of luck be with you, my friend.
======================================KEEP US POSTED========================================
 
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Super!!

I did order a total of 8 of the Mc coy's (I am sure I will use them) and I am sure I will rebuild my engine, I think for me tinkering around and taking stuff apart is at least half the fun, and has been a life long passion for me, wasn't fun for my parents:bigsmilie: (instead of the laugh, it reminds me of my Dad yelling at me)

Oh for lipos, if you haven't found this place) and other stuff, they are the best prices for lipos I have ever seen for the rating's of these. Everything I have seen and read about these batterys is very good (the discharge rating is 20C -30C on a lot of these, ( you take the C rating times the capacity to get the amps, so for a 1300mah 20C it is 1.3 x 20 = 26 amps) a 1300mah 20C-30C means 26a continous amps and 39a max pulsed) just incase you didn't know what the C meant.

Here is the link https://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITEDHOBBIES/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=5265 They did have a bad batch at the beginning of the year but recalled them and changed they way they are sealed.

Thanks for all the great info, I think I am set for now, I think you are 100% right about the plugs, because it did run good when I first replaced it. I will let you know how it goes.

Thanks again,

John
 
Hey Wister.
Thanks for the link.
As you already know, the batt. compartment is tiny on the savage and makes it difficult to modifiy. It needs more room.
Most recievers (if not all) run on a voltage of 4.5 - 6 Volts.

Based on my own experience with electronic projects, I've come to believe there's usually some headroom on the maximum voltage specs.

That being said, I think a 6 cell nMH rated a 7.2 V would fit with some modding of course. You would be able to carry up to 3000 ma. or more on the truck.
What would you say about that?
 
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if your bumping up to 7.2v, most receivers will handle it fine, but you will need to be careful with your servos. most servos take up to 6v, the only ones ive seen which take 7.2v is the towerpro's (cheapos from hong kong).

just something to watch out for as you may need something in place to reduce the voltage between the receiver and servos
 
Thanks Poly.
I did a write up on this subject when I first came to the site. I thought I made a thread but I can't seem to locate it.
It must be a post, buried in my replies.
This is where SJ posted a reply to me on this and said that he thought the servo's would be fine and the RX would be the grey area here.

I guess there's only one way to find out.
 
Hi,

Thanks for the feed back, I think I agree that the servo would probably be ok, but I am not sure about the RX. I did, or I thought I posted a link to a converter that will change I think it is 12v to 6v DC and will handle 10amps, I just don't know how big it is, it looks small but not sure.

Been really busy, just found out family, My Mom, sister and neice is on there way down from St Louis, Mo to visit, My Mom usually stays for a month or so, but I had to clean this place, and it is so small I hav to put everything away to make room for them. usually I have a few weeks to prepare, but this time I had a two day notice (the time it takes to drive here)

Anyway it is usually pretty crazy around here at least while my neice is here, so I probably wont be around much for the next month or so, but I will be back 100% for sure, maybe I will get to take my truck out a little with my neice, she is still at the age where she loves that kind of stuff.

So if I am not around for a while you know why,

Thanks again,

John
 
Thats fine, John.
I'm just posting some resources that may come in to play in the near future for you.
No need to respond. I will likely continue to post this type of supplemental subject matter as tiime goes by.

Check them out at your leisure. Have fun with the family, Wister.
 
Hi,

Just wanted to let you guys know my truck is running great!!! the longer or more I ran it the better it runs!!! I just started tuning it on the HSN, Wow this thing is really fun, I cannot beleive the speed of this baby it is already poping wheelys and I am still running pretty rich (well the temp is just now getting close to 200 degreees), I am loving it.

Thanks for the advice and help on break in, I am always setting to BDC while it cools too....

Be back soon.

thanks again,

John
 
Thats awsome! glad its coming around for you breakin is frustrating to say the least but patients prevails and as it gets broke in and tuned it comes alive and is a real blast. I own three and keeping them all running is a real challenge but I Love Nitro and the Savages are a total Blast. Take it easy and anything you need Is just an ask away.
 
Way to go Wister!!! That sounds to me like the prefect response from someone who listened and followed the guidelines posted here .
That great. Keep us posted on yorr progress, John. later.
 
Hi,

Thanks guys, Yes I followed the info on this site to a "T", it dosen't always follow the instructions in the book, and sometimes I wondered if you guys were right but I am glad I did! If not I would have been sure it had something wrong with it and would never idle but all is working out great!!! Pop's wheely's like nobodys bussiness. Boy these bad boys drink the fuel I couldn't beleive it. I was in the middle of tuning and I just leaned the HSN a 1/8th turn took off and it died, I thought I went too far when My neice said no were out of gas!!

Anyway the McCoys are working very good, I tuned the HSN and LSN, I think pretty good, the temp is getting up around 235 when I stopped for the night, can't wait till morning!!! guess I need to make a ramp next.

Thanks guys,

John
 
Thats way cool, Wister.

Hop is someone who likes to express things in the way, I've noticed....
Ramp = More Fun
More Fun = More Damage
More Damage = More Repairs
More Repairs = More Repair cost
More Repairs costs = No more Visa....lol

Do you see the tend here?...Anyway,.. Have some fun, John.
And don't forget to ask for member discounts from our sponsors.

Later, bud.
 
Unless your willing to take apart the truck every time you run in water, I would stay out of puddles, rain, Wet grass, drippy mud, ect.

Some guys do run in the wet conditions, but take extreme measures to insulate the electronics and servo's with ballons ang white grease.

I would put that one off until you know your truck, inside and out.

But when your ready to go that dirrection, ask again and I'll get more info to ya.
 
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Hi,

I just took my SS out to start the breakin proccess, I didn't bother to even look at the book because I just broke in the F4.6 from in this thread.

I had a very hard time with the F4.6 because I could,t keep it running for anything, thanks to you guys I learned a lot and got it broken ix and it runs and idle's great now. Now I took this new XSS out to break it in and find it is a different story. It ran so well from the first start with the HPI plug in it I couldn't believe it, in fact I stopped early because I thought the needles might not have been set for break in.

I brought it in and looked, first I noticed the HSN wasn't exactly flush with the edge and couldn't be set to the edge, so I looked in the book. The K4.6 has some differences from the F4.6, the K4.6 has 4 needles and you set the hsn flush with a groove on the body under the screw the rest are flush with the edge. Also the book says the max temp on the K4.6 is 275 degrees with the F4.6 it is 250 degrees.

Anyway, the settings were at factory, this K motor runs so well at the factory settings I can't beliee the difference. That F4.6 wouldn't idle for anything, I had to hold the TX trigger to keep it running. I guess it is better I goth the F4.6 first, cause if I got it second I would have thought something was wrong with it for sure.

Just wanted to let you guys know, I guess all of these engines are different (like youve said) now I have seen how much

Oh, the book says there's no need to touch the mid speed needle, what do you guys say, is there anyreason to mess with it?

Thanks,

John
 
NO NEVER EVER TOUCH THE MSN!!! I have two Axials with mid needles and if I touchem they don't run for dookie. We are here because we Love the hobby and would like all to feel the same, that is why you can find so much help here from total strangers. Glad to hear you are having a much better experience with the new truck. As always assistance is only a question away.
 
i've seen a few forums and this is the best i've seen so far as far as good advice and good people!!
 
I was just thinking about how lucky I was to find this forum, it is the first and only savage forum I ve evr been on, everyone seems like good people and very helpful and nice. Ive been on some forums where they jump all over people for any little thing, like spelling or asking a simple question and stuff like that.

Iam glad to be a part of this forum I like it a lot.


Oh, thanks for the MSN warring, have to wonder why the have it, I guess there must be a reason.

Thanks

John
 
Yes This Forum Is Full Of People Willing And Actually "wanting" To Help!! I Had The Misfortune Of Asking A Newbie Question On Another Forum And Was Treated Like I Was A Complete Idiot!! And Here If I "screw" Up Its Brought To My Attention In A Friendly Way And It Gets Dealt With!! I.e.... Posting In The Wrong Threads!!!! Lol Did That A Couple Times Till I Figured Out My Way Around Here
 
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