New to nitro! 4.6 RTR wont idle during break in

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ShiftPoint

ShiftPoint

Well-Known Member
Messages
840
Location
Ft. Laduredale, FL
Hello,

Hi, I am new here, I think I found the right place, I hope I picked a good first truck.

I have a Savage X 4.6 RTR. My first, My first nitro in many many years, since I was a kin before 1976.

I went out to do the first tank of fuel for break in. I had it up on boxes, all idle screws were at default factory, or flush with the casing. Ok I read the instructions up to this part very well a couple times. However the truck will not idle. It starts, runs a bit then die’s, now if I give it a bit of throttle on the tx it will run, I mean very little, I then back off and just before it is at the resting spot for the trigger the truck dies, even if I let it run for a while first.

Finally I tried to adjust the idle scew by turning it clock wise just a small bit, I did this several times, still it acts the same.

It seems to me it is running very rich. I smell un burnt fuel, and when I brought it in and gave up for the night I noticed oil, well I thought it was un burnt fuel, but when I felt it is feels like oil?? I assume this came from the un-burnt fuel evaperating?

Please help, I don’t know what to do, the temp when I measured it is between 125 and 120 degrees F.


Oh, I noticed the servo chatters when ever I touch either a screw driver or the roto start to the frmae or motor, it seems to stop after it makes contact and seems to be more the steering than throttle.
Thanks much,

John
 
Well John . Welcome to hpisf.

Your definitely at the right place. Now about your problem ...

It's normal. its dieing b/c there is access flue in the crankcase and its (loading up) .. this is good b/c you know its getting the flue it needs for brakin.

Might help if you keep the glow plug ignitor on the glow plug for a while. Maybe like a min or so ... Make sure you ignitor is charged every day

Also it will help if you lean the (low speed needle) like 1/2 turn .. turn the needle clockwise.


Also might wanna try running a hotter plug. Like a mc59 (McCoy). during brakin

KEEP US POSTED on what works and what doesn't

AND AGAIN WELCOME !~~~~~
 
Hi,

Thanks a lot for the reply, that was quick!! I will do like you say, I did have the igniter on quit a while because it would die as soon as I went to take it off, but I did remove as soon as it started and I could get it off, then it would usually die, so what you say makes since. They have a R5 which I believe is the cold plug, I did buy 1 of each of the 3 plugs they mentioned in the manual. I will try first to leave the igniter on for a minute or so first, if that dosent do it, I will then try that and the ½ turn on the slow idle screw, then I will try the next warmer glow plug.

I cannot believe how far these nitro trucks have come, they are awesome!! I had a helicopter (a cheap one, $35, no RC it flew up then when out of fuel comes down ina gyro and breaks, every time) a hovercraft, and a dune buggy which was the coolest one I had as a kid, but I could never save enough for the servos and RC radios etc… so they weren’t much fun. The only one I didn’t take back to the store within a couple days was the dune buggy, and I don’t remember what happened to it.

I picked the Savage X over the other trucks in the price range because I read so much good about them, seem like they are tough to break. Well maybe not for you guys. The 3.3 Revo was tempting with the push button start and the reerse and bigger motor, but I just didn’t like it, Seemed there had to be a reason you got all that at about the same cost as the Savage X, I am happy with my choice.

I tried searching for my problem, I know it must be in here somewhere, I tried break in first, and saw a bunch of post’s about bashing etc.. then I tried “Won’t idle, and what I read was above my understanding at this point.

Thanks again, I will keep you posted!,

John
 
Hey, Wister, welcome, bud.
Site Jester is right on the insight he suggested..

When I first got my 4.6 SS, The engine was way to rich to even stay running also.
Leanning it some is probably nessessary to keeping it runnable.

I found the that the stock plug was crap and confirmed the fact on-line.

I reccommend a Mcoy Mc-8 glow plug to be used for the life of the engine .

Read up on the break in process here at HPISF.
Give special attention to the heat cycling methods. This is done durring the break-in
period.


This will help get a good life out of your mill.

And yes.... Keep us posted.


====================== Good luck. Wister ==========================
 
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Hi,

Thanks !

I did read a post about heat cycling, but wasn’t sure abut it, and some of it I am not sure I know how to do it, or even what it means, like BCD (I think it was BCD not sure if the letters are right) I figured out that is with the piston down , or not at the top of the cylinder where it is supposed to be tight.

So should I run it up with the wheels off the ground and cold, or should I let it get hot but just for 2 or 3 minutes at a time and stretch that out for more tank full’s?

I thought since this is my first nitro, I maybe should do like the book says, then as I get to know more, and get through some of these post etc when I get a new engine, I can do it the right way. I am just not sure if I know enough to make sure I don’t do something wrong.

I wanted the sS but was afraid to get it as my first. I figured I would get the RTR so I can take one apart before I try putting one together. I did buy the reverse module, I started to install it a couple times, I look at the instructions, it looks easy then when I start I run into something that’s different from the sheet and put everything back. In the end I decided to break it in, run it and get a feel of it and how it sounds before I start taking it apart. I have seen so many upgrades I want already, but I better take it slow nd read as much in here as I can, I am not sure which names to avoid and which are best, or what parts to get first. I guess as they break Well no A new radio and receiver and radio, no idea which one, but I will get there, the stock radio, well t doesn’t look great, maybe it is I don’t know.

One thing for sure I need to take this part slow, (not the driving) but everything else. I will get there, someday soon I will be helping some newbie (when I know what a mill is:dunno: )—I hope anyway. Well that is how it was with my other RC I have, I have a quadrocopter, it is pretty cool, but this nitro is just, wow!

Edit- the Mcoy Mc-8, when you say "for a life of the engine plug" do you mean it maks the engin last longer or the plug last for the life of the engine? dpoesn't seem like a plug could last that long, but what do you mean? Is that the plug I should run for everything? Again I just did what the book said, I will do some more reading.

Thanks,

John
 
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Welcome Wister! he is refering to running that plug in your motor at all times It works well. Won't last forever or add to the longevity of the motor (mill) but is a good all around plug for that motor. If you didn't catch it Mill is another name for Motor. And again Welcome, There are an awsome group of guys here that can and will answer most any question you may have, You are definitly in the RIGHT spot.
 
Hi,

Yeah, I asumed mill was motor, I don't know why yet,. The first place I looked after I regisitered was Jt' mod's and I knew I was in the right place, that is some amazing work!

I just ordered 4 of those plugs, thats great info, I was wondering if there was a good all around plug. I am in South FL so it is pretty hot here, but it's like that just about everywhere now. I dwas kind of thinking the pressure since were at sea level here (I think my house is at like 8 feet above sea level) was causing it to run, or not run like that.


John
 
Yes I agree JT is the man. But mainly if you've ran a couple tanks already you will need to lean the motor some be patient adjust in like 1/8th turn increments, just work with it slowly and it will come around just be sure it doesn't get over 300 degrees ever. The .28 motor is a good motor and will amaze you when properly broke in and tuned. Think about it the truck weighs around 12 to 15lbs. and has like a 3 hp motor. Power to weight ratio is simply put INSANE. any questions just ask, you will find tons of knowledge here. Most all enjoy your new truck!!
 
Wister said:
Hi,

Thanks !

I did read a post about heat cycling, but wasn’t sure abut it, and some of it I am not sure I know how to do it, or even what it means, like BCD (I think it was BCD not sure if the letters are right) I figured out that is with the piston down , or not at the top of the cylinder where it is supposed to be tight.

So should I run it up with the wheels off the ground and cold, or should I let it get hot but just for 2 or 3 minutes at a time and stretch that out for more tank full’s?

I thought since this is my first nitro, I maybe should do like the book says, then as I get to know more, and get through some of these post etc when I get a new engine, I can do it the right way. I am just not sure if I know enough to make sure I don’t do something wrong.

I wanted the sS but was afraid to get it as my first. I figured I would get the RTR so I can take one apart before I try putting one together. I did buy the reverse module, I started to install it a couple times, I look at the instructions, it looks easy then when I start I run into something that’s different from the sheet and put everything back. In the end I decided to break it in, run it and get a feel of it and how it sounds before I start taking it apart. I have seen so many upgrades I want already, but I better take it slow nd read as much in here as I can, I am not sure which names to avoid and which are best, or what parts to get first. I guess as they break Well no A new radio and receiver and radio, no idea which one, but I will get there, the stock radio, well t doesn’t look great, maybe it is I don’t know.

One thing for sure I need to take this part slow, (not the driving) but everything else. I will get there, someday soon I will be helping some newbie (when I know what a mill is:dunno: )—I hope anyway. Well that is how it was with my other RC I have, I have a quadrocopter, it is pretty cool, but this nitro is just, wow!

Edit- the Mcoy Mc-8, when you say "for a life of the engine plug" do you mean it maks the engin last longer or the plug last for the life of the engine? dpoesn't seem like a plug could last that long, but what do you mean? Is that the plug I should run for everything? Again I just did what the book said, I will do some more reading.

Thanks,

John
Click to expand...
Hey, Wister.

TDC means TOP DEAD CENTER.
BDC means BOTTOM DEAD CENTER.

These terms are used in refference to placing the piston position at a location in the cylinder before the engine
cools down from a run session.
They are also refferenced in port and polish procedures.(does not apply here)


Your going to be chalenged abit, now and then on patients.
This to be expected and welcomed.

It's all part of the joy factor in this hobby when you learn something that took some time and patients.

First, I want to stress the importance of not exceeding 275 dgrees for the HPI 4.6.
This engine is known to be a mill that likes to run on the cooler side of temp zones.

------I highly reccommend that you keep it closer to 225 degrees and not higher than 250 degrees -------


With the 4.6 being your first mill, your right about not getting too anal with every detail durring a break-in.
Just follow the instructions that came with your truck and continue to get info from places like this forum.

Its real funny how we all can talk nitro on-line or even to someone in person.
The idea's flow like beer at 5:01 pm.(thats a funny)
But we soon find out how much expierience and patients we have when the engine or something else is not
working as expected.

If you can grasp the information here as fast as the guys provide it, thats great.

Just remenber to not rush the break-in.
The real serious stuff on the I gallon or more break-in methods don't apply to your mill. So, no sence in getting
distracted with it for now.

Although, It does make interresting reading for general knowledge.
It's definately overkill to impose that kind of method on a RTR mill.

BUT,... If you really want ot go that far for a great break-in process, It won't hurt abit, John.
It's just a little more time consuming and costly in the fuel dept.

I will say that the "BDC" thing is one approach that you should do with all mills.

It's a good habit to learn NOW.
And, it will help keep the "pinch"(tightness at the top of the cylinder wall)in good shape as you progress
through your break-in process.

I hope this was helpful , John.
===========================Good luck and keep us posted, bro.===============================
 
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Hi,

Yes, it has been very helpful, like I knew the top of the cylinder was tight from the manual but I didn’t know if it was supposed to stay tight or if it was supposed to loosen up. (I see it is best to keep it tight now, or at least try to).

The top dead center I knew from timing my truck (the truck I drive) and figured it meant bottom dead center but couldn’t think of the words. I am an electronics guy, that’s what I did for work, and still would be but I became crippled up pretty badly around 2001, so anyway I am getting into some of the hobby’s I ve always wanted and never had either the time, or money. As for as engines and mechanical stuff goes, I pretty much know how they work, helped build a high performance motor with friends, worked on my own car as much as I could, stuff like that. As for as these motors go, I am guessing they are 2 stroke’s, and there is oil mixed with the fuel, I know there is no coil or high voltage spark, I am guessing they get their fire from the pressure and heat, kind of like a diesel engine (which I know little or nothing about)

One thing I am really bumming about, is because of my condition (severe arthritis) I am hoping I can work on these things, I have a hard time even lifting the truck. But I will figure out a way. I think I will catch on soon enough, I am not going to hurry stuff, although I already find myself being impatient, especially about upgrades. Seeing your guys icons doesn’t help, looks like you guys have some awesome trucks. Money or lack of it will keep me in check.

So is there a difference between the kit 4.6 SS and the RTR? I think I am better with the roto start, not even sure I could pull a pull start.. I really wanted the SS, but I just couldn’t trust myself to be able to build it, without ever even seeing one assembled, and I wasn’t sure how good the instructions were.

One last question(s) Are there any tools I should get? I bought just about everything I didn’t have that they show in the manual, like glow plug wrench, cross wrench snap ring tool, etc… are there any I am going to find out I wish I had? Oh, and what’s the best fuel, name brand and % ?

I know exactly what you mean by getting aggregated with new people, I have been in a forum’s in the past, but I do know you know it takes a while to get the lay of things, and sometimes the search button is not as helpful as we would think, especially when so many results come back. Read, read read, but nothing beats experience!.. I will make sure no to ask any stupid questions:hardlaugh:

Thanks again for all the help!.

John
 
Thats a great attitude , John.

I think in time, you may become a nitro Guru yourself, and be the one answering the tough questions
for not just newbies (or premmies is what I like to call'um..lol) but also the more expierienced.

There may be a few of chalenges ahead in dealing with the maintainance of your Savage.
But with some forethought into your procedures, and some clever tool adaptations, combined with a
well thoughtout work bench and vise with a truck support, I believe you can overcome these few
instances that occure.

As much as I would like to say that the Savage rules in every way, I must, out of consideration for
your shared insight to your condition, tell you that the savage can be one of the more dificult trucks
to contend with.

By this, I mean to say that it was designed in a way that requires alot of wrenching just to get to
one part or another. This issue has inspired many threads here, on the forum. But don't be discouraged.

Having the propper tools for the job and a good vise is real helpful in all situations.
Its only you that can deside what is in your range of abbillity, John. But if your interrest and passion
for this truck is strong enough, you will find ways to reduce, if not elliminate, the hurdles of assembly
issues that may come to be.

In this area, I truely wish you Power...my friend.

As far as the tools go, I just happens that I suggested a creatation of a tool section here, resently.

And guess what?..
They created it. You will find it in the forum dirrectory.

Its still in its infantcy because of it's newness.
You will find that as time goes on, you and others will have posted great new ideas that you've
discovered in the hobby.
And hopefully, it will grow to be a good resource for you and the rest of forum members here.

As you find your way around the site, you'll come to know where things are located in general.....
Give it time.

There's no such thing as a stupid question.


My Tool reccommendation for anyone new here is a Digital Camera. You will find it to be an
important part of your abbillity to illustrate an example of your repairs, conserns, killer mods,
truck pics, ect.

I'm sure you see my point here. pics "can say it all" in alot of cases.


One last thing.
Keep a thick skin and don't take any crap from anyone, bro... Alright?

Actually, I do like everyone here.

======= It's just that every now and then, a WINGNUT flies in under the radar...lol.=========

Later John
 
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Hey Wister, sorry I missed some of your questions.
Here is a little blurb on fuel usage.

============================================================================================================================================================================================
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Ok for all of you who know nothing about fuels, I'll let you in on some secrets.
Hop, move this to a new thread if you like and "sticky" it.

It is not harmful for your engine to go from, 20 to 30 to 40 to 20 to 10 ect. It does not matter like some say.
All that is needed when running a higher percentage nitro fuel is a richer tune. And then, when going to a lower content, tune a leaner tune.

So warm up your engine. you will see it run hot or cold. Now, retune to the new fuel.

Heres the whole concept behind tuning for different fuels.
The nitro percentage is bassicially what is burning in the fuel. When there is 30% nitro, the engine needs less air then if you were running a lower % nitro.
This is why people say they have lower temps with higher percentage fuels. Because in reality, you are running richer when you are running a lower % of nitro.
The reason why it runs faster with the 30 % then the 20 % is because of the increased nitro amount in the fuel.
It burns hotter and produces more combustion, but since the engine is richer, it will run cooler then on 20%.

I have run 20% to 40% to 30% in the same engine. Its on its 17th gallon now with a great deal of compression. All that is needed is a proper tune.
If you can't tune, Id say learn how to or use a trash engine till you do.

From my experiences, it seems that 30% is easier to tune too then 20% because it is running richer, but maintaining the same speed as you would
with a perfect tune on 20%.

If you are on the mark at the tuning though, you will have the temps hovering around 210-230, which is what I run my engines at. And they run like a dream.


Most 2 stroke engines can't idle for a long time, so don't expect it to.
If it idles for a long time without bogging down by itself your LSN is probably too lean and you should check that out.

I know for a fact that my RB loves a fat low speed needle with a lean high speed for optimal performance. Every engine is different, so you will have to figure
that out on your own.

For all of those who state "you can't switch fuels and % theorys", they are wrong.

crzy.

This post was edited for minor spelling and puncuation.-- No content was removed. ----Thanks crzy-svg-usr: Excellent post
============================================================================================================================================================================================


Quote:Doobeewha
As far as what brand,.... Thats going to be about whats sold in your area.

I don't know how many LHS (local hobby shops) are in your area, or the popular fuels sold in florida, but....

"O'donnell's" and "Byron's" are some of the best, I hear.
There's also Trinity, Blue Thunder, Wildcat, ect.

I would reccommend a 25% - 30% blend of any of the brands mentioned. Some cost more than others.


I myself, bought the 4.6 SS Kit.
(now out of production)

An RTR is cool for jumping into the truck and getting the thrill of nitro alot sooner than the kit.
It comes with it's own Radio system.

I felt that from what I've heard about RTR's, you never know who built the truck and what they did to insure a propper assembly.
I'm sure in most cases the trucks are fine. But, there's that chance that things are overlooked.

There's alot that goes into a well built Savage.

I thought it best to get the kit.
Since there's going to be the reality of repairing it, I might as well assemble the truck with my best interrests at heart.

This way, I know the inside and out, before I even Drive the thing.
It gives you a better chance at pin-pointing an issue because your already familure with the assembly.

The kit also came with cool upgrades and hop up parts to make up for the lack of a radio system. This saved a little at the register.
I had to buy and use a separate TX (transmiter) and RX, (reciever) along with purchasing three servo's also.

I didn't mind this though because I could now pick the components that I preffered.

The RTR steering servo is the first thing that gets replaced.

Thats the difference between A kit vs an RTR.

I will say this about the Savage.
It always seems to be an issue with finding the right upgrades and hop ups for this truck.IMO
There's alot of crap out there in the market and it's hard to know for sure until its too late to change your mind....

Get used to this. It will help you sleep at night...lol
Do research. Find out before you buy. Beware of "Bling."(shiney aluminum and high cost)

Fortuantely... The savage does very well on it's own and has less problems being stock.

It's also cheaper to maintain.
By being blingless, it's alot lighter which helps in proformance and durabillity.

==============================I think we all find this out the hard way...lol ===================================
 
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Hi,

Thanks again all!

The fuel thing makes perfect sense, I just have to see if I can tune or not, I think I will be ok. I kind of figured out the temperature was important on these so I bought a temp gun, I just got the HPI one, I don’t know how good it is but I wish it had a regular battery in it. I am seeing now tuning is all about temperature, listening and the feel of the truck (RB?), I guess it is better to be anal abut it at first till I get the hang of it its easy enough to do anyway. I have a feeling I might need to get a better one, if only to have a bigger battery in it. Maybe this coin batt will last longer than I am thinking?

A vice sounds like a good idea too, oh yes and a camera I do have one already, it is really what I use it mostly for is posting pictures in another forum I am in, I will check out the tool thread, oh what would really help too is a definition thread or list, for things like LSN and this one lost me “RB loves a fat low speed needle with a lean high speed†(sounds good though).

I see what your saying about the kit, didn’t even think about the things that could have been over looked, under tightened (over tightened), no threadlock, etc… I was very close to buying one but I basically chickened out, part of me is just inching to take it apart the other part is still a little chicken… I already want a new radio and tx. I guess 75mhz is better than 27mhz. I have a futaba 9CH and a 72mhz and 27mhz modules (FM) for my other toy, but I don’t think I like it as much for the truck. I will get to that in time. I also see what you mean about the steering servo, mine will barely turn while sitting still, I did order a much better battery hump pack 1500mah NiMH that has a 30 amp discharge max, that should help. What is the best servo to put in place of the stock one? Should I do the throttle servo at the same time? That steering servo is something I want to do soon.

Figures as soon as I get ready to go out and play around with the break in, a huge storm comes up I am hoping it goes away before too long..

I am off to find the tool thread, thanks again guys!! Wait did the rain stop???

John
 
Hi,

I took it out again, before I did I set the idle screw back to where it was by default, then I changed the plug with another r5, toped off the tank and went out. It started right up and ran great, I left the igniter on for a while maybe 30 seconds, then removed it and it ran! It was running good but it was idling high, in fact by the time I checked the temp it was about 135 already, when it got up to 180 I thought and turned the trim down as I did it slowed down, then died on me, the temp was 190. I thought this was probably ok but I decided to go in for a while and let it cool, like the heat cycling, I just realized I didn’t know if it was at BDC or not,. When I came back out it was in the 90’s so I started it again, this ever since I had trouble keeping it going. I did try turning the slow speed screw clockwise a little twice, maybe a 1/8 of a turn not much. I also played with the trim idle, but just couldn’t keep it going again like it did at first, by this time I’ve gone through close to a tank of fuel starting and stopping it.

Can these plugs load up? In any case I wore out and it got dark before I got to try too much. I wear out pretty quickly, I am probably worse shape than your thinking, A pretty good gauge of the arthritis is I was 6’2†when this started, not I am about 5’10â€. I am only 40 years old. Anyway it sucks but I will not give up has to be good for me anyway 

Tomorrow I will keep going till I get to half a turn on the slow screw. Tonight I may even set everything back flush, and make sure I have about a 1mm gap down in the carb (I don’t remember what that’s called) so I know where I am at. It is so easy to bump the trim.

Oh I think I am going to need another igniter, a good or better one, any recommendations? I think the type you push and trun will be easier for me to get on and off. On the temperature, will that level off once I get the tuning set for the fuel I am using which is 20% by the way. Or do you really have to keep an eye on it always while your driving?

Thanks, guys,

John
 
Hi, Wister.

I seem to be the only one out here to be at your side on this. Thats cool and all, but I need to make my responses
a little shorter because I type like a snail.

1."RB" is a person. Rick Brake. Rick has a great reputation as a guru in the field of modifiying nitro engines.
He provides high proformance nitro services for the Industry

He also has a line of nitro mills that we can buy.
I'll post his link here's part 1http://rbmods.net/home.php

2. lsn (low speed needle) msn (midrange speed needle) hsn (high speed needle)

3.Here's a great vid for learnning the tuning process. Watch it 100 times...(or as many time as you can stand)
You'll be rewarded in a new level of convidence
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oSmMzpZM_As&mode=related&search=
Here's part 2.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJFsJAxNoRg&mode=related&search=


4. Reccommend a Hi-tech 645MG servo for steering. $39.95 street price
stock servo ok for throttle.

5. If you lost your way in the tunning process, return to factory settings.

6. Devote at least a quart of fuel for the break-in process.
I would give the k4.6 a 1/2 gallon just because I'm that anal about it.

Even though the mill is a little looser at the pinch by design specs., and will tune well enough at 7-10 tanks, it
will never really come it to it's own until a gallon has passed through it. So, be patient and keep it on the rich
side of tune.

Always place the piston a BDC at each cool down. (important) Always let it cool to the current(ambient)
temperature of your suroundings before restarting. I personally, like to place the piston at BDC everytime it cools
for the life of the engine. It helps in the preservation of a well maintained compression. IMO

7.You will likely go through 2-3 plugs durring break-in. The is to be expected.
The heavy oil content combined with metal particals bonding to the plugs surface will tend to foul a plug.
After break-in, and the engine has been leaned abit, this should subside and go to a normal plug life sinario.
I've had plugs that lasted many tanks before having to replace. Many as in, 10-15 or so.

8. Not sure what you mean about 1mm gap at carb.

9.The idol trim serves as a good starting adjustment when the mill is cold durring the break-in period. Think of it
like a choke of sorts. Once warm, just readjust it to the desired rpm's you want.

10. Dynamite company makes a D cell Igniter that has a meter on the end of the handdle that keep you informed
of the power level. If you can handdle the spring tension, its what I reccommend.

You can also get rechargable nickle metal hydride D's at Radio Shack Stores. Nation Wide.

11. There's many opinions on break-in forula's and such. I say 20% is safe for your RTR mill. after break-in, go to
25% using the same brand if posible. Ask your LHS guy what fuel they always have on hand. This will give yourself a
good idea of whats going to be available to you when you run out..

In many cases, you can order the fuel blend you want, as long as its the stores brand(s) they sell.

12. And last, but not least, When your done for the day, remove the excess fuel for the the tank.
Once thats done, fire up the engine again to clear the fuel line of fuel. This is important and will keep your fuel line
clear of oil build up that clogs the carb.
keep your fuel well sealed and out of the sun. Nitro methane evaporates quicker than
Oprah through a cheese cake. Fuel thats been left to sit out in the open is best used to clean your air filter and not
to be used in the engine. It will cause your mill to run (if at all) like crap.


======================I hope this helpped, John, and good luck===================================
 
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Hey, Wister.

Here's another great thread for learnning about sealing you engine.

You can thank J.T. for the write up and SANTA CLAW for the pictorial

https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1511

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Link to:
RB mods endorsed break-in method By stephen Bess
submited by SJ

http://www.rbmods.net/enginetempering.php

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

NOW THIS IS FOR INTERRESTING READING for that RB you get down the road.

https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2799
 
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WISTER, I admire your spirit bro. don't be afraid of asking dumb questions.
I'm a savy owner for 4 years, I didnt know sh$t untill I came this year. You will save alot of money and time coming here first. The search feature isnt great but..., youll be surprised the info you stumble upon trying to find info here. Your in good hands here. ask for help we all need it one way or another.
Doobe, way to go bro helping out new member. Someone who actually types longer posts than you. LOL LOL
WELCOME TO SITE JOHN
 
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Thanks crash. Thats really appreciated, bro.
 
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Thanks for the warm welcome guys! And especially Doobeewha for all the great info!! Oh and video link, I love it!! Boy break in is pure torture, plus its been raining on me a lot since I started..

Well, I am having a heck of a time keeping this running for more than a few seconds unless I squeeze the trigger on the tx, I don’t have to squeeze it much, but it has to be in, I can not get it started without the tx in my hand for that matter. It doesn’t run anything like that guys in the video. Beginning to suspect the fuel, I kind of got tricked into buying the tower hobbies brand 20%, I don’t know why I didn’t think and look for other fuels, I picked it out of a list that came up “needed items†or something like that. Anyway I bought some O’Donnell’s 20% RTR and 20% racing (because it says synthetic oil) and a couple 25% racing for after I break it in. I also have some of those Mc coy’s glow plugs ordered. I think I am going to wait till it shows before I try again.

I have tried a R4 plug, and turning the LSN close to half a turn in 1/8 speed increments and get about the same results. The only time I got it idling on it’s own was right after putting a new R5 plug in and leaving the glow starter on it for a while, it was running without the tx in my hand that time but it was going pretty fast, the wheels were really turning pretty good though I did notice they were pretty easy to stop. I hope I can get this running correctly.

Oh, one thing, I hope I did right, I before I started I took the glow plug out and set a tie wrap that had been cut and set it in on the piston then turned the roto start with a screw driver till it was as low in the cylinder as it could get then marked it with a marker on the top of the ALU colored wheel that, well it looks like the clutch bell is up against. This way I can see when the piston is in the bottom of the cylinder so I don’t have to try to look in the cylinder to see each time.

BTW, the 1mm gap I was talking about, in the manual it says for the idle trim adjustment, you remove the air filter and look down in the carb and you can see where the part that opens and closes when you hit the throttle is, there is a small gap on one side at idle, it says it should be about 1mm open at idle.

Sorry about the long post’s…

Thanks again for the help


John
 
Be Patient. Frustration IS breakin! work through it and it will all be worthwhile. Kudos on marking the flywheel to reference BDC, Great idea. You can try adjusting the tx trim to help you get it running and idleing, But It won
't idle long (few seconds) due to the mill being so rich you will need to blip the throttle alot to clear excess fuel. Even a properly tuned broke in motor will not idle more than a few minutes. These motors aren't meant to Idle their meant to RUN! Most all though just be patient! like I said The definition for frustration IS breakin. keep pluggin at it bud It will all be very worth it. Myself personally got into it due to my neighbors Tmaxx. two years later I own 3 different savages and an esavage (wifes). I still have tuning problems but am still learning.
 
Thank you, Wistser.
That always means alot, my friend.
Of course you realize that your now my Electronics consultant.lol.

I'm always happy to help those who are kind and considerate like yourself.

It's one of my weaknesses to a more "to the point" approach, I've been known to project.
There are many here that feel the same, I would guess.

This, mostly due to the "Drive by member" that screams bloody murder for help, and then
disappears without a thank you.

The late Sam Kinison put it best..IMO.
It's like a woman who brings home a date, and realizes as she wakes up in the middle of
the night, her back has been shaved,... her butt hurts,.... $20 is missing from her purse,....
And..... The dude left out her frigin bedroom window!.....lol
( that one's for entertainning Chunky )

Oh yea.... I have a sense of humor...

Anyway, John.. Your not like that as far as I can tell...lol
Besides, I don't carry a purse...

So, on that note,
Give me abit of time to get to my e-mails and I'll post some more answers to these
questions, bro
------------------------bbl ( be back later)-------------------
 
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samisavage said:
Be Patient. Frustration IS breakin! work through it and it will all be worthwhile. Kudos on marking the flywheel to reference BDC, Great idea. You can try adjusting the tx trim to help you get it running and idleing, But It won
't idle long (few seconds) due to the mill being so rich you will need to blip the throttle alot to clear excess fuel. Even a properly tuned broke in motor will not idle more than a few minutes. These motors aren't meant to Idle their meant to RUN! Most all though just be patient! like I said The definition for frustration IS breakin. keep pluggin at it bud It will all be very worth it. Myself personally got into it due to my neighbors Tmaxx. two years later I own 3 different savages and an esavage (wifes). I still have tuning problems but am still learning.
Click to expand...
Excellent advice, Samisavage...
 
Thanks Doobeewha. I may not be as knowledgeable as some of you guys but I try to help and feel Wisters frustration. I think we've all been there no matter how much time we've got into these trucks they can still be frustrating to the best of us.
 
Hi,

Thanks again, I am not terriably fustrated, but after seeing the video you linked with it running like that (with suposed factory settings,) really bumbed me out, still does to tell the truth, but if you guys say this is normal I believe you 100% ok 95% :). That tower hobbies fuel makes me wonder.

I'll be around a a long time, Ive been in some forums for a long time many years on and off ( got close to 800 post at rcgroups, never had that many before), some forums have dissapeared too. These forums are the best place o learn and make freinds, nothing beats experiance. I agree about pictures too they can say a lot more than words for sure. Sometimes it may take me a while to get back to answer, but I'll be back asap, )just some days are really bad for me. Well I don't get out much either, long posts, but there will be days I cant even type. so plese pe paitent.

Thanks again, I would really be bumming without you guys, Probably would of returned it for another already :) (not really, but who knows)


John
 
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Hey man there are days I pull mine out and get frustrated (one reason or another) with them and am done and on to something else in 20 min. ADHD rules lol. so just hang in they are a blast. Take care and keep us posted.
 
Oh, I be glad to help with electronics or anything else I can! I guess I should figure out how to catch up with the posts so I can see the new ones.

Smething else I was wondering, have any of you guys tried using LiPo battery packs in these? I don't know if there would be nessessary or if the humps packs work fine,. I was thinking about a 11.1v LiPo (or even a 7.4v) and something like this to regulate the voltage its god for 10amps http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/showitem.asp?ItemID=11516.46 probably overkill, but it would be a bit lighter.

John
 
I think I understand, John.

I had the luxury of a buddy to stand by me (Savagecre) durring my first mill break-in, and it helpped.
I couldn't imagine what it may have been like if I was on my own.
I have to admit, Its nice to bounce ideas around as you incounter issues.

And yet, very early on, I had to take charge of the desissions and deal with the truck myself.
I seeked knowledge from other sources, just to say that I'm on top of this beast, called the Savage....
This forum has been, and continues to be very helpful IMO.

That brings up a another thing I'd like to point out, John.
I know there's alot of savage ownners in florida and maybe, a likely few very local to you.

Have you thought of asking if there's places to go for some bashing? Or maybe some RC club's in your area?
You can post up inquires at LHS's about meeting someone who's in to the savage. Guys in the hood.

I do realize that may be easier said than done, John. I'm just trying to be helpful.
I feel that some assistance in the beginning is priceless.

There's members here also, that maybe in your area.
RC'ers are some of the most friendly and carring people I know.

Just get acustom to the site and say "WAZZ UPP" to the members here and before you know it, you'll have
a bash bud, calling you on the phone or at your door, pester'in ya all the time to go out and bash.

Aleast, thats what I do to Savagecre....lol He's a local bash bud and has become a real friend.


Find out where the local bash spots are to drive your truck. I'll bet you, there in your neighborhood.
Savage ownners come in all sizes, shapes, and ages.

I'm sure that with a little persistance,
you will be in a circle of new buds. Here, and at home.

Your so new here, that you haven't had a chance to meet anyone, yet.
You just might find that there's alot of fellow RC'er's that are right in your own back yard

Anyway, I'll start posting some other things now for your questions, John.

Just give me a few to type it up, bro.
 
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