New Savage Flux XL build

[Mvtepixels]

My new street basher is complete and ready to kill some tires, I build it like a kit, had to order stuff from quite a few shops to build it like I wanted.





Some of the mods:
º Machined bulletproof diffs
º Modified diff cups to mount 8x16x5mm bearings
º Aluminum rear hubs
º 20 Kg Absima servo ACS1622SG
º Alza racing center diff kit
º 24mm hex hubs
º HPI RF-50 Receiver
º GTXL-1 VINTAGE BODY HPI-110238
º Castle MMX 8S + 1650kv motor sensored
º CNHL racing series 9500mah 11,1v 3s 90c batteries
º Modified dogbones with bigger pins in one side
º 46t spur/ 24t pinion

Sites used:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/
https://jennysrc.com/
https://rtr-modelismo.com/
https://www.eurorc.com/
https://www.rcfox.de/en
https://rcfanatix.com/
https://www.aliexpress.com/

Diffs:

 

[Mvtepixels]

Hubs:

 

[Mvtepixels]

If you guys notice, on the hub side, the pin is a little bit short for the size of the shaft:

Dogbones :




After mod:

 

[Mvtepixels]

Alza center diff kit:





More mods and stuff:

 

[Paul Williams]

I like it..

 

[Paul Williams]

What chassis are you using?

 

[Paul Williams]

Are they especially for the 8s and Alza center diff?

 

[ez2frag]

Any mods to make the differential components that you show??

 

[Mvtepixels]

Are they especially for the 8s and Alza center diff?

When you buy the Savage Flux GTXL-1 it comes with two different TVP's, the right side TVP is different from the left one, to accommodate the gear box, the right side one is a little bit weaker than the left one, I'm using two right side TVP's on this build, it's just a speed basher, so I don't need a very strong chassis. Well, the Alza center diff kit will work with pretty much every chassis as long as you drill the holes in the correct place to make it work, that's what I did. But Alza sells a chassis with the holes already in place.

 

[Mvtepixels]

sorry for the double post

A lathe would be the best choice, but I don't have one, so I used an electric screwdriver and an angle grinder, you will also need an M3 thread tap to modify the diff cup, it's not an easy process, you need to be very precise on what you're doing, so you should just do it if you really need it, or if you want your diffs to last more.

 

[guinnessdublin]

Good job Mvtepixels fine work you have turned out, would love to see how the tyres hold out!

 

[guinnessdublin]

Did you have to heat up end of dog bones to get pins out?

 

[Mvtepixels]

Thanks guinnessdublin, the tires are holding up nicely, the main reason I made those tires was to be able to drive like a maniac without worrying so much about wearing, cost and reliability, the only problem with those wheels is they're not forgiving at all, so I need to run them on very smooth asphalt or concrete, otherwise the handling is terrible, big advantage: with around 40€ I have new wheels again... (by the way, those wheels are a Maxxis Hookworm bicycle tire glued on Arrma outcast 8s modified rims)
You don't need to heat up the dogbones, just a hammer and protection glasses

After one run:

 

[Paul Williams]

Thanks guinnessdublin, the tires are holding up nicely, the main reason I made those tires was to be able to drive like a maniac without worrying so much about wearing, cost and reliability, the only problem with those wheels is they're not forgiving at all, so I need to run them on very smooth asphalt or concrete, otherwise the handling is terrible, big advantage: with around 40€ I have new wheels again... (by the way, those wheels are a Maxxis Hookworm bicycle tire glued on Arrma outcast 8s modified rims)
You don't need to heat up the dogbones, just a hammer and protection glasses

After one run:
View attachment 11328

They look like mine!

 

[Mvtepixels]

They look like mine!View attachment 11329

Yes, you have the GTXL-1 version, I have two of those right side plates