New Problem with Savage X 4.6

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cwoolie

cwoolie

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42
OK I have been having idle problems with my Savage since out of the box. I went to crank it today and got a couple cranks now the rotostart spins free when trying to turn of the engine. Its like nothing is engaging when trying to turn over motor. I hear this is a possible bearing issue? Any ideas on how to fix this? Thanks CWOOLIE
 
More than likely you flooded the engine and thats causing the one way bearing to slip.
take the plug out of the engine and turn the truck upside down to remove the extra fuel. Squirt some WD-40 inside the engine if you have and handy and dump that out too. replace the plug, DO NOT PRIME THE ENGINE, and try starting it again.
After the bearing starts slipping its best to heat the engine whenever possible. This will make starting much easier on the bearing from now on. I also like to loosen the plug 1/2 turn to alloy some of the compression to blow by, also making life easier on the one way bearing.
 
OK tried that and still seems to be spinning free. Do you think if I let it sit it will help it any? Thanks
 
Rotostart still spins free. Does this mean one way bearing shot? If so is that all I need to replace? Do you know of step by step instructions anywhere I can use to replace this bearing. So far this Savage is nothing by a pain in my side. Only has 2 1/2 tanks and nothing but trouble. Thanks
 
All R/C trucks are going to be a "pain in the side" until you get em running right. Mine was the same way, I was ready to give up, but with a little patience and this websites knowledge I would'nt trade my Savvy for nothing. Is your rotostart chrome rod spinning and the back bearing plate on the motor spinning but the motor wont turn over. I would take the glow plug out and make sure it's not fuel locked. (spin it over with the glow plug out and make sure the pistons not turning. If it's not turning then you have a one way bearing problem. I don't know how hard they are to change. But I have had 90% of my truck apart, and nothing on it has been hard yet. Ask someone on this site how to fix the one way bearing and they will surely tell you how to do it. Make sure both tabs are still on the end of your roto start shaft, if one of those are broke off, it could be slipping inside of the bearing plate. Take your time and a deep breath, you will be happy when she's broke in. trust me.
 
OK took out the engine and dried the bearing etc...the engine will now turn over out of the truck with the engine out. I have an o ring that came out of somewhere. Looking at the back of the book it is part # 6899. Do you know where that goes? Thanks
 
The only O-ring I see is the one that is on my chrome roto start shaft. If you pull your roto start shaft out of the black plastic case it should have a blue O-ring in the groove.
 
Actually the o ring goes on the post that the fuel tank sits on. Goes between the post mount and the gas tank. I got the engine back in. I cranked the truck and got it up to 180 degrees then died. The entire time the wheels were spinning pretty fast so I kept it up on blocks. How do I get the wheels to stop spinning? So far none of the idle screws will stop the wheels from turning. All my needle settings are pretty much flush and still the wheels turn. I am back to square one not being able to get the truck to stay running without the wheels turning fast...no neutral so far. Getting very frustrating since this is supposed to be a RTR truck. So far nothing but problems...........YIKES!!!! CWOOLIE
 
your idle screw is on the backside of the carb. pull your air cleaner off and make sure your carb is closing to about 1mm and you should be able to idle just fine. if you lean your high screw about a 1/4 turn and your idle screw is set right u should be able to idle without the wheels spinning. hope this helps as tuning can be a real pain till u figure it out!
 
The truck is cranking fine now. But it will NOT idle. I have tried everything I know to do. I will try to take off the air cleaner tomorrow to see if it is closing. I can turn the HSN and it doesnt not seem to change anything. In order for me to start the engine I have to turn up the idle from the remote else it will not crank. The minute I start to turn down the idle from the remote it wants to die. The minute I try to turn down the idle with the LSN it dies and I have to return it back to the spot it was in else will not crank. I had no idea it would be this difficult to tune since I see kids all over you tube driving these trucks......
 
Reset the needles back to factory, and make sure your idle trim on the TX is centered. The HSN should be flush with the brass housing and the LSN flush also. Check the idle gap and make sure its about 1mm. the gap on the idle is just a starting point and will change as the engine gets tuned. Once all that is done, turn the HSN in about 3/4 to 1 full turn and start it up. If it still will not idle, adjust the idle trim clockwise on your transmitter which will increase your RPM's. Tune the HSN first, make sure there is good smoke coming out of the pipe at WOT. Once the HSN is set, then you can make fine adjustments on the LSN if needed. You have to adjust the LSN in very small increments, this needle can be sensitive. You should not adjust both needles at the same time because this makes tuning even more difficult.

I'll post a link on how to tune these Nitro engines. Tune the motor after you finish break-in procedure. Good luck and keep us posted. Soon enough you will have that beast running strong and having a good time bashing.

Heres a good tuning thread..https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1726

tuning vids. A little older vids, but still has good info...https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1955
 
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Which way should I turn the HSN before start up lean or rich? Thanks
 
ALANQ....I made the setting changes to the truck. Carb looks to open 1mm as far as I can tell. I heated the engine with blow dryer. Truck will not crank with these settings. What to try next? Thanks
 
Do you mean the roto start is spinning and the truck is not or the roto start won't turn the motor over at all or it is turning the motor over and it will not start.
 
Rotostart is working fine. Truck just wont start since making the needle changes alanq said to make..........
 
What I did with mine was take the air cleaner off. Look down in the carb, and turn my throttle adjustment on my radio up a little to open the carb up 1 or 2 mm. Then hook up glow starter, put in roto start, start rolling the motor over, at the same time hold your finger over the end of the exhaust for a few seconds to build up some pressure and it will fire. Mine was a real pain the a&& to get started. After I got mine started it would not run on the block with wheels in the air. i had to put it on the ground and run it about quarter throttle for the first tank.
 
It ran for almost an entire tank on blocks yesterday. The problem was I could not idle down the truck to get the wheels to no spin and keep the truck running. Each time I would idle down with either the remote, idle screw, or LSN the truck would die and would not crank again until I turn the setting back to high idle. That is where I am stuck now. I am sure I can start the truck now but I will have to turn up the LSN or the idle to get it to crank and stay running. I got the temp up to over 200F yesterday and did not make a difference the wheels were spinning fast as if I had my finger on the throttle. This has been a real pain of a truck.
 
My truck had the wheels spinning fast too, That is why I had to put it on the ground and run it around the yard for my break in period. You shouldn't have to fool with your LSN until your break in is over and your HSN is set then you adjust your LSN by 1/8 increments. I would say if you screw your LSN counter clockwise (out) a little and it will run, go ahead and break it in there and then adjust it after break in. You just don't want to turn it clockwise, (in) until it is broke in. I was ready to throw mine over the hill the first couple days, but I asked alot of question on this site and I finally got the break in done, and now it's awesome. Once you get the break in done, check on YouTube and check out tuning a Savage and you will be able to hear what they sound like running lean or rich, and it is very imformative on how to properly adjust your HSN and LSN. let me know how this works. Good luck,, don't give up. Its well worth the hassle.
 
So just put it down with the wheels spinning fast? It is going to take off on me and hard to control but I will give it a try. I have read everything and seen everything on Youtube. Nothing has helped so far. Maybe its me and not the truck. I feel like a real idiot that a kids toy is kicking my butt.
 
I don't know how fast your wheels are spinning. It surely isn't wide open. When it is running look down in the air cleaner and take a look at how big the crack is where the slide valve is in the carbeaurator body is. Should just barely be visible. The gap shouldn't be no more than the thickness of a couple sheets of paper. If you apply the brakes on your radio does the idle slow down at all. Your throttle and brake linkage might be binding up a little bit. if you hit the brakes the wheels should stop turning. and it should idle down.
 
Which setting will make the carb hole smaller if its large than a piece of paper? I think mine looks somewhat like a half moon if I saw it correctly.
 
set your radio throttle trim to center. turn your radio and truck reciever to the ON position. Look down in the throat of the carb and pull your throttle wide open and watch the slide in the carb work back and forth every time you pull the trigger. when you release the trigger it should go back to 1 or 2 MM open. The carb idle is behine the carb. look down in the carb and turn that screw. one way will make the gap bigger and one way will make the gap smaller.
 
The enging is set super rich from the factory and will give you fits when trying to start it and to keep it idling.
Resetting the neddles like I said should have put you back in the same settings you had in your post #10, which is back to close to factory settings, except the HSN would have been leaner. When I first got my RTR, I left the neddles at factory but had to adjust the idle trim on the tx all the way to the right just to get it running. Your idle adjust screw is on the back side of the carb, a little below the HSN housing.

What is the weather like where you are at?

Oh yeah, feel free to ask questions in the shoutbox for advice as you will get advice right on the spot.
 
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Its almost 50 degrees out here. OK here is what I have done. Set all needles to factory defaults. Set idle on remote to center. I can take off the foam air cleaner and I see a halfmoon that gets larger when I turn up idle on remote. I can take it down to papersize opening but it will not crank. The only way I can get this truck to crank is to turn idle up a bit on remote which puts a pretty big gap in the carb and wheels spin like crazy. If I touch the idle on the remote to try and turn it down truck dies. If I hit brakes wheels stop and truck dies. If I try to give it gas the truck dies. This is driving me nuts now!
 
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