New guy + question

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

gnat

Member
Messages
21
Wow. I am so glad I let my hobby shop talk me into moving to 1/8 and the Savage. It's well worth my wife's ire over the price tag. And I'm only running 4s. I can't imagine 6s!

In the 80s I had a Kyosho Big Brute that I loved except for the axels that would spin themselves bald if you looked at them funny. Ultimately it slid out of an icy parking lot onto a normally empty road and got run over by a car :( Even with it's chassis cracked in half and only the wiring holding the two pieces together, it still drove back into the parking lot!

In the late 90s I bought an RC10B2 and played with it a bit. Then it got put away and I forgot I even had it until earlier this year. My wife stumbled over it while cleaning and my two year old son immediately took a shine to it. The only problems were the old batteries only lasted about 5 minutes and one of the batteries in the remote leaked. My son loved sitting in my lap while I drove it so I got a new 5000mah battery for it which woke it up like I never remember. Of course then stuff started failing and we all know how getting parts for old cars can be ;)

That of course got me in and out of the hobby shop and talking to them to learn about all the new tech that's come out and that led me to HPI (ok, technically it was searching for Porsche bodies that did that :oops:). I was looking at the Bullet, but it was the car guys at the shop that have Nitro Savages that talked them up and got me to step up to 1/8 and go back to my monster truck roots (just not a buggy/truggy fan). I picked it up with 2 35c 8000mah LiPos. I also went back and got some Proline body clips that go on and off much better.

I'm been playing with it around the house and it's power is actually a bit much (I need to detune the throttle response for my use), but Sunday I found a school under construction with a 7+ foot high pile of gravel that really showed me what this thing can do :eek:

Something I would like to fix, however, is the battery boxes. These batteries fill the width of the boxes entirely (maybe even warp them slightly) and because the covers don't lift entirely vertical they can be hard to get in and out for charging. Does anyone have any tricks to allow the battery covers to open completely?

Thanks in advance.
 
I don't have a flux, so I'm not going to be much help here. I did a quick search and oddly didn't find much help, couldn't even find any upgrades to the stock boxes.

Even though I wasn't going to be of any real help I wanted to welcome you to the site. Post some pictures of your RCs when you get a chance.
 
Is the box catching on the battery or is it the hinge itself that's not opening all the way?

Welcome to HPISF.
 
Thanks for the welcome.

Pic 1 is for X with both my old RC10 and the new Savage Flux.
image.jpeg

Pic 2 is for WoodiE showing the battery cover. That's as far as either open. If they would just open to the complete vertical then the batteries would pop in with no issue.
image(1).jpeg
 
OK, this may sound stupid, but can't you just put the right one on the left side and vise versa? That way the hinge would be to the outside, if you keep the battery's wire exit in the same location.
 
I did think about that, but that won't work because of the way it locks. It not clear in that pic, but towards the rear there is a horizontal "arm" with a piece of grass on it. That is one of the locking arms for the box. It's hinged from the bottom of the box and swing up to a locking tab on the top of the box.

So I could probably swap them, but then I couldn't lock the doors shut. Even as snug of a fit as these batteries are I'm pretty sure they'd bounce out pretty quick ;)
 
You could do as I've seen many flux owners do......use velcro to hold it shut. Wrap it around the box.

Something like these:
DSC00261.jpg
 
That's a good possibility. I'll take a look and see if I can get them to fit reversed and if so that would be a nice simple option.

My other thought was that since it's not waterproof that I could trim a chunk out of the top (there is a bit of a pointless bulge on it) to allow it to lift more.
 
So here is a better shot of the box that shows the clamp mechanism. The box "fit" in reverse, but the screw holes on the forward and aft mount points don't line up. There are also mount points underneath (that double as part of the lock hinges) that will not mate up correctly to the chassis either.

In pulling it off though, I got a better idea of what the problem really is. I thought it was the top, but it's the lock tabs on the top that are actually the problem. If I turn them to the "locked" position that helps some (especially on the right side, but the left hits the ESC). So maybe removing the whole locking mechanism and going the velcro approach will take care of it.

Yet another project to get to... :rolleyes:
 

Attachments

  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    112 KB · Views: 6
Can you move the mounts with the box, so the holes line up?
 
Not without drilling new holes in the box, but they'd be so close to the existing holes that I'd most likely cut through into the existing holes and make the mounts useless.

I think leaving them mounted as is and just removing the plastic locking system and replacing it with straps will take care of it. I appreciate the idea and the spur to look closer at my problem.

Took it for a walk with my son yesterday and it probably did something in the neighborhood of 1 mile under it's own power with some good bashing mixed, still has plenty of juice left in the packs! God I love this thing :woot:

I just installed the rest of the spring loads and it's wheelie bar. Hopefully it will be a bit more controllable now and spend less time rolling over because I twitched the throttle too much...
 
Not sure if what I said was correctly understood or not. I meant to leave the mounts screwed into the battery box, but detach the mounts at the TVPs. Then switch the whole assembly to the other side.
 
Found evidence that it can be done (though I think it is the previous generation battery box in the picture):

DSC01085.jpg
 
Yeah I understood. I'll get a picture of the mounts on the underside that I'm talking about.

I'll also take another look.

I'll take a look at the manual about the mounting of the old battery box (the new box has an insert that was included) to see if it has the same under mounts or not. I suppose that they could not be structurally important in which case it would be moot and I can just ditch them.
 
Got distracted by working on the real cars and a broken toe, but finally tore into it today. What I found is that what prevented it from fittingly correctly when I played with it last time was some tabs on the underside of the fore/aft mounts. A hobby clipper and file took care of those and everything fits perfectly reversed.

Here are the the before/after for the tab modification:
image.jpeg
image 4.jpeg

The underside of the box where the under mounts connect as well as the chassis without the boxes to show where the under mounts are. The lock arms are attached with pins that are threaded at the "top" so they came right off:
image 2.jpeg
image 5.jpeg

The finished product. I picked up some Team Associated battery straps to wrap around the boxes (2 packs of 3 for like $7):
image 6.jpeg

Hope this helps someone else.
 
A little ingenuity goes a long way. Glad you got it figured out!
 
All thanks to you guys. The prompting is appreciated.

Now to figure out how I can merge my love of SparkFun.com with the fun that is the Savage :D
 

Latest posts

Members online

Back
Top