Need some advice

[Scott]

Well I finally got me some byrons today for my savy after my 140 round trip drive..So I get home and fuel up the savy so i can heat cycle the lrp spec3..Well after changing the stock plug to a MC59 for breakin,I heated the mill with hair dyer to 140 degrees.. So I primmed the mill and pulled on the pullstart about 8 times with no luck..So i thought maybe it might of been flooded, took out plug and pulled the pullstart to get all of the nitro out..Then I repeated the steps above again with no bad word luck..I tried this several more times for about a hr with no bad word luck.. My question is it ok to lean it a little to see if that will help..I checked and made sure that i had about a 1mm gap on the carb..I am running byrons 30% with a MC59 plug...Any and all help would be greatly apreciated..

 

[Keithv]

Did you try increasing the idle first? When I got my LRP the stock needle settings were pretty much right on. I only had to adjust the idle screw a little for break in. After break in it only took about a 1/4 turn to get running really well.

 

[Scott]

Did you try increasing the idle first? When I got my LRP the stock needle settings were pretty much right on. I only had to adjust the idle screw a little for break in. After break in it only took about a 1/4 turn to get running really well.

Would the idle not make it start? It fired only 1 time while trying to get it to start..

 

[Keithv]

If they idle is set to low its going to be very hard if not impossible to start it. Try increasing it half a turn and see if that helps. Once you get it running you can adjust the idle back down if the engine is racing too much

 

[Scott]

Ok..Thanks, I will give it another shot in the am..

 

[MikeK1981]

Yeah my truck did that too. It would try to fire but the idle was set too low so it wouldn't actually start.

 

[maximusraylius]

i agree with everyone set the idle a lil first itll run and start with it rich as a pig but if idles to low it wont start very easy at all... good luck happy bashn..

 

[AllanQ]

Scott, it will be ok to lean it out a little so you can get it to start. Its kinda tough to break it in if it will not start....lol. What break in method are you going to use?

 

[frddyj]

when i start either of my nitros, keep the tx in my left hand so i can give it throttle while work the pull starter with my right.

you may not need to adjust the idle caz once she fires and warms a lil you should be ok if your around the 1mm mark.

I'm with allan thou, i had to give my F one full turn in from stock to even get it to fire for the first time. :coolkid01:

 

[Scott]

Scott, it will be ok to lean it out a little so you can get it to start. Its kinda tough to break it in if it will not start....lol. What break in method are you going to use?

Thanks Allan...I will give this a try also...This is the break in method i am going to use.
http://www.tsrcar.com/garage/paddock/engine_tips.pdf

 

[Keithv]

The heat cycle method works best IMO. It puts less stress on the engine and I think it prepares the piston and sleeve better.
Let us know how you make out with the idle adjustment

 

[inb4lock]

The heat cycle method works best IMO. It puts less stress on the engine and I think it prepares the piston and sleeve better.
Let us know how you make out with the idle adjustment

There really isn't any evidence to suggest that multiple, very short heating and cooling cycles actually has an effect on the properties of the engine metals. Still, a lot of people swear by the heat cycle method.

Personally, I don't use the heat cycle process. I used to, but I didn't notice any difference in piston hardness or engine life.

The most important aspect of break-in is maintaining normal operating temperatures. Metals respond to heating by expanding in a linear fashion, so you want to break the engine in at temperatures close to those you will be running at after break in. This ensures that proper tolerances are maintained between the piston and sleeve.

 

[Keithv]

There is no evidence that letting the engine idle at a constant speed without possibly getting up to normal running temps has any effect either. But its definitely more stress on the engine to idle it for multiple tanks if you don't get the expansion you're looking for.

 

[inb4lock]

There is no evidence that letting the engine idle at a constant speed without possibly getting up to normal running temps has any effect either. But its definitely more stress on the engine to idle it for multiple tanks if you don't get the expansion you're looking for.

There's plenty of support for that. You mentioned a few points yourself. If the engine doesn't reach operating temperature, the sleeve doesn't expand sufficiently, and much more stress is placed on engine components. That is backed up by both theory and experience. It's also logical to say that breaking in an engine cold will result in an undersized piston at operating temps due to the nature of the expansion of the metals.

What I'm saying is that in theory and my experiences, multiple, very short heating and cooling cycles have no benefit over a single, long break-in run at operating temperature. It certainly won't harm anything, but the extra effort doesn't give you any net gain.

To each his own though.

 

[Keithv]

I meant to say that there wasnt any benefit to letting it idle as opposed to the short heat cycles.
But you're right. Its all a matter of preference. Ive even read some articles where guys don't do break ins at all. They just run the engines right from the box.

 

[inb4lock]

Running the engine right out of the box is definitely better than the slobbering rich idle break-in. Not ideal, but not the worst thing you can do either.