My xs and new parts so far

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dfish1247

dfish1247

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30
Location
East tn
i got a used xs for $60, ran awesome. Also came with onyx 150 charger and 2s 4000mah pack.

I got 2 new 2s 5000mah onyx batteries, duratrax 2.8 c2's. Well the c2's were so wide, my steering was virtually none. So I set out to fix that.

I went ahead and ordered the Junfac 19mm wheel wideners, hpi hd cups all around, mini wheelie bar.

Got all that on and checked motor temps, hit 170 after about a pack and a half, which I expected.

So, I've ordered the 32-60 idler, 24 pinion. If those don't bring down the temps, I'll get a 20 pinion.

Here's a couple pics of the truck, I fixed the front steering so it's straight now. I now also have full lock to lock steering, and the battery tray opens fully, just barely touches the inside of the tires.

The wheel wideners were put on in the order you see, start at the axle and work to the right, used blue loctite on the barrel nut,the rubber washers are from atlas 3/8" roofing screws. These washers also keep the barrel nut from bottoming out and not getting a fully secure fit. I have no axle in and out play now, and seems to be working great. Have done multiple 10ft high jumps and no problems so far.

Also, I broke every axle pin tightening these down, so I cut down some 7/8x17mm wire brad nails that mic'd at 1.61mm. They fit great with a hair of wiggle.

Also, where the link hooks on the uprights(hex screw with nylon nut), I stripped every darn one of them, I replaced the screws with an m3x50mm stainless set. The factory nylon nut fits as well. Fit perfect and have no binding.

Sorry for the long first post, just getting all the info I have so far.

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man, I wish I could fin one of them for 60 bucks! lol. welcome to the forum and to the rc addiction
 
I had a 25 several years ago.

I seen this on craigslist, tried it and loved it. Thanks for the warm welcomes.

I have a 2075 on hand, I keep reading about the steering servo being weak. With these tires, the truck turns just fine, the stock tires were just pushed straight along while being turned. The wheels were turned but just skated along.
Should I put the 2075 in or just wait until the stocker croaks?
 
If your happy with the way it turns...then you could leave it till it croaks. After all you do have a replacement. Once you start getting really used to the truck...you will start looking into improving loads more down the road!
 
I got the new idler and pinion installed, not too terrible a job. The drive cups on the other hand were a royal pita, especially the cup on the spring,my thumb is killing me.

I'm taking a break right now, but after while, I'm putting in the swaybar and rear diff shaft, while the motor was out, it looked horrid, the front looks good thank god.
 
Got the rear diff cup in and the swaybars. As seems to be the case with hpi fasteners, I had one strip whulie putting g in a link on the lower arm. After trying to get it back out, I cut a slot for a flathead and got it out.

Now, here's the cool part, I drilled out the holes just smaller than the nail. I pressed framing nails through and they are seized tight,worked great.

On to a question, after getting it all back together, my ESC fan doesn't come on, everything else works great. Where should I start looking? Thanks guys.
 
ESC fan had a pebble in it, never mind. Otherwise, running awesome. At full throttle off the line, all 4 tires just balloon up and off it goes. Clocked it at 46mph, plenty fast. Motor temps are now in the 130's after 3 packs of you name it.
 
Oh yeah, I have dremel tooled so many hex heads into flat heads it isn't funny. Of course, all aluminum goodies are next, would the integy stuff be any good or is gpm a better brand? Haven't heard too much good on hot racing.
 
Too much weight? Or one good crash and I'm crying?

I'd mainly like to get skidplates, steering uprights and knuckles, and rear uprights. I want to leave the lower arms plastic, just for a weak spot.
 
actually, both. aluminum bends and stays bent. plastic doesn't. I would get alum skid plates(not bumpers) knuckles would be ok, but I would leave the upper and lower arms plastic
 
Anything that needs to take a hit or bend in any way should remain plastic.
 
While playing yesterday, the slipper clutch nut decided to back off. Took it all apart and drilled a hole for a set screw. Then cinched it down. Working great again, nothing like a hotrod.

Question, I'm looking to get some more lipos, any thoughts on the g forces from value hobby. Wanting to try so e in the 45-60c range, 2s still. My Onyx's are doing great, just looking to see if I can get a little better punch than the 25c's I have.
 
RPM A Arms are great to have and swapping the front ones are good enuf. The rear you can leave stock. I used a cut and bent piece of coroplast to make a center skid plate and cable ties...hehe! But the Stock plastic parts from HPI are pretty beefy as they are.

You'll get better punch for sure with the higher C rating. I have 30C lipos as minimum for my other trucks. Works for me. I did read somewhere that 30C is a good minimum to start with.
 
Well, I get a set of gpm upper arms, got both packs for $5 because one arm is broke. Its the rod the end goes in is snapped, could I jb weld the rod back together and it work? I would just get stainless all thread, but one side is reverse thread. Actually have the back wheels sitting flat vs slightly leaned in.

Thank you for the info on the batteries, with temps in the 40's outside and 3 packs mostly speed running, I got 144* temp max, if the higher c rating will bring me down a few degrees, I mayswzp the 56t idler back in and see what happens.
 
Here's a pic of the steering arm, is there something I could rig up to keep the wheels straight while still allowing turning, I keep getting this toe in problem and it's not the steering linkage or any of that. It bugs the crap out of me.
 

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I would also like to know how to solve that problem with toe angle
 
dfish1247 said:
Here's a pic of the steering arm, is there something I could rig up to keep the wheels straight while still allowing turning, I keep getting this toe in problem and it's not the steering linkage or any of that. It bugs the crap out of me.
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the linkage you are showing does not control toe in/out, that looks to be a fixed length link from the chassis to the knuckle , the toe in is controlled by the length of the rod or linkage arm running from the servo saver/steering rack on the chassis to the front hub , if this is also a fixed link then toe is preset and can only be adjusted by installing a set of adjustable linkages.... I believe HPI includes an optional linkage set for the Savage XS series look at optional parts in the manual, if not aftermarket parts are available I am sure.....
 
All that is is so one knuckle can be used for either side. It would have to be a custom job, but i would start with the spherical ends on the knuckles and work towards the middle. It would be a fixed piece, but still allow steering and suspension movement.

Update, the junfac wideners are jb welded to the wheels now, they are not quite 12mm like the stock hexes and i rounded out 3 wheels. So i cleaned everything and roughed everything up and jb'd them. They aint coming off now, the widener and wheel now come off as one piece.

Also, I broke the 60t idler, put the 56t back in, motor temps are in the 145-155 range depending on how much speed running I do.
 
well you have successfully confused and dumbfounded me as to what you are even talking about.... but my original suggestions stand and i have faith in the aliens above you will either totally mess up the rig or have success....
 
I'm with you Jam...lol!
Savage toe-in/out is adjustable by the double ball ended rods on each side. Unscrewing either end will extend the rods overall length thus adding toe-in. Camber isnt adjustable stock unless you upgrade to adjustable upper arms, which I never bother as I run on bumpy surfaces and get thrown all over anyways...haha!
As far as pins and rods go,...if I can replace them with appropriate length M3 or M4 hardened Bolts with washers and nyloc nuts...I normally do that as their cheap and wont slide out.
Only thing I hate on the savage so far is the plastic skid/bumper thingy....they tend to buckle and warp allowing the suspension hinge pins upper or lower to have a chance to slide out. The cable tie they recommend is weird and doesn't work 100percent. This is where I go with bolts and nuts...hehe!
 
I'm talking about the piece on the upright where you'd mount a steering ball. The backside has the steering linkage attached, this contraption would go on the front of the upright. Look just to the left of the wheel, its thattab sticking out with a hole in it.
 
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