Metal Spur Gear ?

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Lexpert81

Lexpert81

Active Member
Messages
75
Location
Brookfield WI
What are the pros and cons of a metal sg i have had a issue melting plastic ones and i need to know if a metal one is a good fix
 
i have been running a metal one since i bought my savage used and it works for me never have to replace my spur gear and my transmission still works lol but I'm not a pro I'm still very noobish
 
Is your mesh good?

A metal spur gear is okay. You will have to upgrade to a hardened clutch bell. You also need to make sure your mesh is good EVERY time. If your alignment there is wrong then the damage will transfer down the line. IMO I would stick with a plastic spur gear. I keep it the weakest spot on my tranny. Wouldn't want to constantly break down the truck every time something broke from bad mesh. If they are really giving you headaches you can upgrade to a delrin gear.
 
you need to make sure your mesh is good with a composite spur or steel gear. Steel is gonna be a bit more forgiving to a bad mesh, or tweaked motor plate.

i upgraded to steel from composite just to try it out. i love it. but then again, i never had a problem with composite.

composite spur gear being a 'weak point' is a myth, a bud of mine grenaded his tranny while running a composite spur & no damage to the spur (caz he had it meshed right). Tranny? Gone.

Adjusted properly, the 'weak point' on your tranny is your slipper clutch; that is what its designed to do.

Whatever you choose, make a habit to inspect your mill plate, mill mount, motor mount screws & above all else--> Mesh :peace:
 
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frddyj said:
you need to make sure your mesh is good with a composite spur or steel gear. Steel is gonna be a bit more forgiving to a bad mesh, or tweaked motor plate.

i upgraded to steel from composite just to try it out. i love it. but then again, i never had a problem with composite.

composite spur gear being a 'weak point' is a myth, a bud of mine grenaded his tranny while running a composite spur & no damage to the spur (caz he had it meshed right). Tranny? Gone.

Adjusted properly, the 'weak point' on your tranny is your slipper clutch; that is what its designed to do.

Whatever you choose, make a habit to inspect your mill plate, mill mount, motor mount screws & above all else--> Mesh :peace:
Click to expand...

amen +1
 
if you are melting your spurs, then chances are that your clutch shoes are slipping pretty badly. I would stick with the plastic spurs, like the other guys said make sure your mesh is good. First take a look at your clutch shoes. I would look into getting some better ones so that they don't slip as bad, and maybe a vented clutch bell to keep the heat down if the new clutch alone doesn't do the trick. If you switch to steel spur just because you are having problems with the plastic, chances are that you are still gonna have issues. Plastic spurs will last a long long time as long as everything else is set up correctly. New clutch shoes are first though, the stock ones have a tendency to slip excessively.

Edit: Another thing is to make sure you are tightening the spur down enough, tighten all the way and then back off 1/4 turn. Don't know if you are melting the center where the slipper is or the edge where the teeth are. Center means slipper set too loose, edge means clutch is slipping too much.
 
yea the last one melted the center so you think i have to only back the nut off a 1/4 turn. Mesh looks good i don't see any abnormal wear on outside of gear after running and i have a racing cb installed the clutch shoes looked ok
 
if it melted it your mill not the gears. clutch shoes are dragging and the spur cant take heat. I love the HD spurs with racing bells. but have composite too. I do like that fact if you mess up a jump with the HD and bend that plate or the mill moves it will let you find the issue B4 it fails. Composite not a chance.. the hds are not noob proof but noob
tolerant..

Fred said all that needs be said so +1 with him too
 
I know i cheated a little but it looks just like this on but the middle was melted more
https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11038
I did what the book said i loosened the nut 1/2 turn from tight i guess i need to check the new one again before i run. Do you think this happend from doing some big hill climbing it stopped moving after a few runs up the hill it was great untill then

When Bank says hd spurs he means metal right ?
 
Lexpert81 said:
Do you think this happend from doing some big hill climbing it stopped moving after a few runs up the hill it was great untill then

When Bank says hd spurs he means metal right ?
Click to expand...

Naw not really, if theyre not tight enough theyll work themselves loose.

To tighten it down correctly, i remove the mill & use a 6 point socket & crank it down all the way! Spring 100% compressed & cant tighten any more.

then back it off about 1/8 th turn.

you can back it off 1/4 turn, but its all about getting it cranked down tight before you start to back it off.

Yes, by HD spur, bank means metal, here's a sweet price on 1 http://cgi.ebay.com/New-HPI-Savage-XL-X-SS-Slip-Clutch-47T-Metal-Spur-Gear_W0QQitemZ180362340368QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio_Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item29fe6ee810&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A50

make sure you use a Racing clutch bell
 
just a note.... alot "including myself" run with there slipperclutch-spur gear tightened right up, it gives nice throttle response and so on but not advisable if jumping or anything as one landing on the throttle will likely toast it!!!
 
Ok just retightend nut and just have to run it to see how it responds. Thanks everyone for all of your help
 
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