I just dropped $1420 on a flux

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Hmm I just noticed something else. There is a lot of slop in the steering. Like I said I had a savage before and I had converted it to the Ofna servo saver before there was one you could buy for it. I had no slop in the system and I never delt with this new set-up. Any one know what I'm talking about??
 
yah i hear what you are saying man there is a lot of steering but no move ment of the tires
 
Pictures!! =]

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The revo has a FOC, carbon fiber rear bulkhead brace. CF throttle servo mount, CF battery tray, no Cheese-E start, Alum. pushrods, Ti Ni shock shafts, P2 rockers, and the traxxas wing. P.S. My revo has been ran over by a car.


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Not sure about the TraxxASS..... But the Savage looks sweet!
 
lol I knew I was gonna get it for putting that in the pictures. It's pretty neat/well thought out really. It's really light and handles amazing. For a mostly stock truck it's race worthy. In bashing terms it's nothing comapred to a savage..for racing its a little different. Ofcourse it's not as stong but thats why it weighs under 9lbs. The motor is a small block but it's more than enough to push the 9lb thing around with ease. Apple and Oranges for sure. It depends on the applaction.
 
ummmmmmmm traxxas looks nice but the flux will beat it man you revo dreams will be crussed
 
Yeah I know the flux will be MUCH faster but I doubt it will turn a faster lap time due to the geometry of the revo. It's simple really, power isnt everything and having too much power on the race track isnt always good. My revo is lower to the ground, over 3 lbs. lighter, with plenty of punch. I know the flux can be tuned and sure it will run a LOT faster but they are completly different trucks. Thats why I got the revo in the first place.

I'm a savage guy I always was. After the 3.3 came out I decided it was time to try something wayyy different. And just after the first drive you could tell how much different it really was. It's not a basher at all, in my eyes it a budget racer, mostly stock. I'm not saying it's better than the savage or the savage is better. Facts are facts. The revo is more suitable for racing in stock form, and the savage is more suitable for bashing in stock form. Sure you can put heaiver oil in the revo and bash it, and the same for the savage. You could add some lower profile tires and play with the suspention and it could be raced with good resutls. I'm a middle man but I bash more so thats why I own a savage again..
 
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Great looking trucks man, savage looks great.As for the revo.
They are great for there intended purpose,(budget) out of the box racer.the revo has givin countless individuals an opprotuinty to race and be competitive.and imo that what it all about, todays budget racer ,just may be tomorrows ROAR champion. peace
 
So today I went to the hobby shop to check it out and talk about the Lipos/flux. I came home with this charger and It was worth every penny.[8D]


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Those took 10 min to balance and 23 min to charge @ 6 amps. My other 2 packs took about 30min to charge. If the packs were down to 9 volts I could see it taking about an hour. But I think I'll get at least half that in run time. By the time I take these out and get them on a charger and my other packs in I won't even have time to drive the revo because these wil already be done...And I only have 4 packs If I had say 4 more 8000 mAh and another one of these chargers I could really tear the savage to bits. This this is CRAZY, INSANE,,,no those words don't even come close. @ 25 volts anything over 1/2 throttle is crazy. Shesh 1/2 is crazy haha. My poor new body..poor savage for getting this set-up stuck into it. I decided that people that say the savage tranny stinks and the diffs...How would you like if you got a setup like this installed into your body...you would rush to get up out of bed in the morning and go through the wall hahaha.

**** I decided to try and sell at least one of my other chargers. I don't need 3 chargers and they are beand new. Any offers?

My total bill is over $1700 so it would sure help to remove 2 brand new LiPo chargers off my back.
 
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What are you looking to get for them? If they are still new you might be able to return them.
 
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It's the 2 smaller chargers in the middle made by turnigy. They are brand new I never used them, they came with my packs in the mail today. I got home from the hobby shop and used the duo 2 instead. I would ship them back but it cost me $65 to have them shipped here in the first place. They were $40 each + the crazy high shipping. I looked on ebay and saw 2 listings for just around $100. They are trying to get most of there money back. I can use them down the road but for now it seems stupid. They are pretty small and I guess they have a nice bright blue lcd. Make mean offer if you would like. I have 100% feedback on ebay.
 
same setup I have w/ ps and dou 2. I am waiting on balance plugs for some smc batts that I got.will be here today! what type of lipos are they,how much$,where did you get. I need one set of insane 3s for my flux. I am just running mine on nmhd 5000 7.2 volt I cannot even think how fast this truck is with a pair of those lipos in it. This truck is beyond insane!!!:jamout:
 
So I'm ranting now. I've only run my svage 2 times. The first time was for 2 min because the pinion gear came loose. Red locktight fixed that. The 2nd run was about 5 min and I blew out my front diff. What the heck is going on. I was told to be easy on it/my lipos for the first 5 runs or so and I can't even get in one???? I sheared off 1/2 of the teeth on the front pinion.

Now what, I don't even know where to get the diff pinion and I don't want another stock one if its going to break at 1/2 throttle. i thought these were the HD diffs??
 
I set it at 60% brake power and I don't use full brake. I only hit it to 100% throttle one time and it almost did 2 back flips. Most of the time that I did drive it was under 50%. When the diff went I heard it go, that was 60% throttle MAX hit (forward not reverse)...in the dirt so traction was not that great either.

A little more ranting from me tonight lol. Well I'm being told to put in the cen gst diffs and i don't feel like spending another $120 on this thing...I thought it would handel this power??

Another small let down after tearing into this thing about the drive train is the dog bones. The 4 main ones are much better, the center 2 are the same old ones? Why???

I'm pretty upset that the diff went and I haven't even driven it 10min.....
 
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I set it at 60% brake power and I don't use full brake. I only hit it to 100% throttle one time and it almost did 2 back flips. Most of the time that I did drive it was under 50%. When the diff went I heard it go, that was 60% throttle MAX hit (forward not reverse)...in the dirt so traction was not that great either.

A little more ranting from me tonight lol. Well I'm being told to put in the cen gst diffs and i don't feel like spending another $120 on this thing...I thought it would handel this power??

Another small let down after tearing into this thing about the drive train is the dog bones. The 4 main ones are much better, the center 2 are the same old ones? Why???

I'm pretty upset that the diff went and I haven't even driven it 10min.....

The centre dog bones do not suffer the same abuse as the outer ones. I don't understand why but they don't. It's the outers that suffer. My advice would be to give the stock diffs another go if they are cheap to fix but make sure they are shimmed perfectly. If that doesn't work go the cens. I managed to wear out the pinions on my cen diffs on my brushless savage but I think thet may have been due to some bad shimming.
 
I stripped 2 gears in the center gearbox this weekend. I'm kinda bummed too, I thought they'd be a bit stronger. Oh well, time to order up some new gears.
 
Wow, I beat the snot out of mine without any issues so far. I even plowed into a mailbox at near full speed and it just kept on going...
 
Well today I got it going and I had to use a non-HD pinion because thats all my LHS had. No big deal because I backed the slipper off about 1/4 turn and re-tuned it.

I set it to 80% punch, And made the throttle curve an auctual curve. It now looks like a car dyno with a turbo spooling instead of a straight line. As rpm increases it slowly go's up.

I took it out for a test and it's much better than it was. I'm going to play with the curve to set it to my driving style.

What punch % are you guys using? I set my brake to 70% for the test and it was wayyy to much. 60% seemed better.
 
Well I took out the revo to do some tuning and try and burn through my old gas. Well It runs perfect and I was letting it idle through the rest of the tank. I decided to play with my savage untill it burned through it.

Well the front diff held fine but I broke the rear center driveshaft with it being detuned!!! Now I need a new driveshaft. I would post pics but I can't find it so yeah. The savage is down again.
 
i see all this driveline breakage on these savage fluxes. all have one thing in common 6s LiPo maybe they are too much for the truck to handle. I'm new to electrics but if you are overpowering the driveline isnt it time to tone down the power. the fastest truck is the one that crosses the finish line. nitro savages have been having diff issues its nothing new, why would the flux with its crazy brushless power be any better? hpi needs to increase the physical size of the diff to make it handle the power. cens are good but they break too. just my opinion / rant
 
Yeah, I'm sorta bummed about the diff issue. I think I'm going to turn the overall power down on my Flux so the gears last a little longer. 6s certainly gives it some insane power.
 
This is mostly HPI's fault for advertising 3s batteries as being compatible, as well as it's main feature being standing backflips. People are going to try these, and things will break. I've been lucky so far I guess. I may just start running 2s, not much difference between the two anyway.
 
Well today I got it going and I had to use a non-HD pinion because thats all my LHS had. No big deal because I backed the slipper off about 1/4 turn and re-tuned it.

I set it to 80% punch, And made the throttle curve an auctual curve. It now looks like a car dyno with a turbo spooling instead of a straight line. As rpm increases it slowly go's up.

I took it out for a test and it's much better than it was. I'm going to play with the curve to set it to my driving style.

What punch % are you guys using? I set my brake to 70% for the test and it was wayyy to much. 60% seemed better.

I only set the punch up to 10 or 20%, but it needs alot more. Probably something closer to what your using.

I havnt played with the throttle curve yet either. Something to try I think.
 
You need the Castle Link which is a cable that connects the ESC through a USB connection into your computer. Then you can use the Castle Software to adjust all of the different settings on the ESC. You can change everything from brake and throttle curves, to drag brake and punch control. Its really a helpful tool when dealing with these high powered brushless systems.
 
So my new shimmed diff lasted about 1/2 a run. This time it ate all the teeth off the pinion gear. (front diff shimmed with no play, 90% power, slipper backed off 1/2 turn...I'm getting upset =/)
 

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