I just dropped $1420 on a flux

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FluxedSavage

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Ok a little about me. I've been in and out of this hobby before HPI released the very first version of the savage .21...which was my 2nd RC. It was a bunch of fun and I went through about 4 different motor combos and had it under 10lbs race weight. I then got the first version of the MGT with the flag body, I had a T-maxx, E-maxx, an 1/8 buggy, mini r/c 10 with a mamba brushless motor ect...So I've been around a bit I guess you could say. I now have a revo 3.3 and love it. Sure I've broken a few things just like all my other trucks. Out of all of these my fav. one was the savage just because I beat the living $@#$ out of it and it just came back for more. I could drop it from over my head and it wouldn't bottom out. I loved getting huge air with it and the plush landings made it that much more fun..When I got back into it about a year ago I went for the revo because it was so much different. After I got it and ran a gallon through it I learned the differences compared to my savage. It was about as fast but my savage had way more power with the picco .26/orion .27 I was running at the time. The suspention was wayyy more forgiving and softer in the revo and the handling of the revo was DEFF race ready out of the box compared to my modded savage.

So I wanted another savage. I did some research and watch a few vids of savages with the 6S LiPo's and I was SOLD. The vids made this thing look nuts compared to my old 10lbs. .27 savage.

The flux comes on wednesday and my batteries/charger should be here on thursday=]. After hearing a lot of people that went to LiPo after running NiMH say they wish they didnt waste the money so i decided to skip them. I haven't heard much about theses new shocks, how are they compared to the old style. Any side by side pics? Also what about the steering? I had a $100 servo in my old savage with the JR racing XR3I. Is the stock servo good, do I need anything else. should be up and running by friday at the latest.


ACC6.jpg


Features;
Microprocessor controlled
Delta-peak sensitivity (NiMH/NiCd)
Individual cell balancing
Li-ion, LiPo and LiFe capable
Ni-Cd and NiMH capable
Large range of charge currents
Store function, allows safe storage current
Time limit function
Input voltage monitoring. (Protects car batteries at the field)
Data storage (Store up to 5 packs in memory)
Battery break in and cycling.

Spec.
Input Voltage: 11~17v
Circuit power: Max Charge: 50W / Max Discharge: 5W
Charge Current Range: .1~5.0A
Discharge current range: .1~1.0A
Ni-MH/NiCd cells: 1~15
Li-ion/Poly cells: 1~6
Pb battery voltage: 2~20v
Weight: 355g

PQ-6000-3S-25.jpg


Spec.
Capacity : 6000mAh
Cell Model: PF 10343150XP
Voltage : 11.1V
Charge Current(2C) : 12A
Continous Dis.(20C) : 120A
Dimension(mm) : 32.5 * 48.5 * 165.5
Weight : 488g

tcpp9000.jpg


Input Voltage: 110-120V 60Hz, 3-prong U.S. power cord
DC Output Voltage: 11-15 volts, adjustable
DC Output Current: 25 amps max.
Max. Rated Power: 300W
Power Control: Rocker switch with LED indicator
Cooling: Twin rear mounted fans
Output Connections: Two sets 4mm banana jacks w/detachable terminal
hook
Overload Protection: 25 amp solid-state current limiter
Case Size: 5.5" x 7.2" x 2.5" (140 x 182 x 64mm)
Weight: 49 oz. (1375g)
Approvals: RoHS



1-Savage Flux = $630
4-LiPo's = $480
2-Chargers = $80
1-Power supply = $100

Total so far $1290

Add tax = $50
Shipping = $80

Grand total $1420 =] :drunk: I can't waite to get this thing.:jamout:
 
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nice rig your building there

welcome to the forum

charge up your video camera we want to see this bad boy
 
i didnt even read your post yet cuz I'm shell-shocked over the price. wicked kool tho, wish i had the coin for a flux,

welcome to hpisf
 
That will be spastic on those packs. It is expensive getting into brushless but so worth it. I have to keep stopping my self from buying a flux. I already have one brushless savage I don't need another just yet anyway.
 
Welcome to the world of brushless power.

One word sums it up:

Lots-o-fun.

My daughter has a stock e-savage on LiPo's and son has a brushless e-revo. If they do well in school this year and racing, they will get a Savage FLUX to share for the summer.

The nicest thing is that it is a 12 pound truck, so it should be less prone to damage.

Enjoy and keep us posted!
 
Welcome aboard, I had the privilege of setting one up this weekend which was running twin 3s LiPo's. What a mad house and is a handful to handle. I ended up detuning it a little just to make it a little easier. Upon entering the program it was actually very detuned from factory. This thing is a blast you will just have to learn throttle control. It will also be very tough on body's.

I tried to do some full speed passes but was very difficult to get to full speed. I was always to like 3/4 throttle then wanted to get that extra little bit and squeezed the trigger and bam its upside down sliding accost the lid after the quick wheelie it pulled.

Enjoy the beast with to much power, Never thought i'd say that LOL.
 
nice truck you are building man i wish that i could have that truck and try a hittec met gear hight troqer steering servo
 
WOW.. 1400 bones....

Respect to the power and your decision and all, but I'd be rolling a 5T for that coinage.

Can't wait to see the vids though... those things with 6s run at ludicrous speed!! lol

*
 
Thanks guys. Really though it might seem like a LOT of money up front. But really I'm set forever. I don't have to buy anything unless something wears out or breaks.

I'm expecting about 35 min. of hard runtime on 2 of the packs. And I'll post pics and vids when it's all set up. What kind of steering servo servos are you guys running? Back when I had my nitro savage i had a 180oz. servo and it worked great. I was thinking about buying a brushless servo for kicks.
 
I'm with ya Fluxed, I think I would spend the 1400 on this over the Baja just because its 4X4 now it would be a different story if the T5 or whatever were 4X4.

Seems like the stock servo will have adequate power in the time that I have ran it. The stock steering servo is a high torque servo with Metal gears.
 
Yea and they say people are hording all there monies, they need to visit a few hobby shops, props to ya man, i'm jealous
 
I would save more money but shesh you only live once. I thought the stock servo was a plastic gear servo?
 
Congrats and welcome to the site...you must post vids asap or the welcomeing commitee becomes the linch mob.

Great set up and make sure you get it dirty fast!
 
Update* Today everything shipped out. I think I'll get the flux/power supply tomorrow. And hopefully the chargers/LiPo's will be here thursday. It's comming from hongkong so it's going to take a few extra days. woot woot:drunk:
 
I've got a question about the pinion gear. Stock is 20T but is it true hpi says the go to a 25T when running 6S? And if it is true does it come with the 25T gear??
 
It does come with the 25T and yes they do recommend going to the 25T when running dual 3s Packs. The truck is pretty much uncontrollable with the 20T but has lots of torque.
 
Whoa, whoa, whoa...Don't go to the 25T unless you're using the Phaltline tires. With all the reading I'm doing, I'm finding out that HPI may have made a big mistake with the gearing chart. The claimed 62MPH on the box is with the 25T and Phaltline tires, not stock tires. Also, I've seen several threads where the guys from Castle Creations have directly said, do NOT use the 25T. In fact, a lot of owners are saying gear DOWN from the 20T to use a 6S set-up. I've seen the advice vary from 18T to 14T, but always DOWN. The massive stock tires combined with the tall 25T gear cause the motor and ESC to work harder than they should and can cause them to overheat.
There are a lot of smoked MMM ESCs cropping up, and most of them are 6S set-ups. CC says some of the problem is that gearing chart in the Flux manual, but they're also saying some of it is cheap or over-rated batteries. They recommend at LEAST 5000MaH 30C for a 3S battery, and to stay away from cheap batteries. This is straight from the Castle Creations Horse's mouth...

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18981

Ignore the FastBaja dude, and pay attention to PDelCast, that's the CC dude.
To boil the whole thing down, the MMM needs GOOD batteries to sink the monstrous amounts of braking current. If the battery won't take it, the capacitors get stuck with it, blow, and send all that ripple current right into the controller itself.
 
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WHOA! Thanks a bunch! I'm almost done reading all 16 pages of that thread and there is a TON of good info.

The jist of what I got was that gearing up is BAD in most cases. If you had some smaller, lighter, onroad tires, and wanted to do a few speed passes the 25T gear would be ok with the right LiPo's and carfully watching temps. But on the stock size tires or tires that puts more load on the motor, staying at the 20T or dropping down a few teeth is the way to be safe. Ofcoure this is watching temps in every condition with every LiPo combo...

If you gear up to the 25T with the stock tires OR larger with anything less than my packs say bye bye.
 
I don't own a flux, but I have been reading all over the Savage forums about how HPI was telling all to use the 25t with the 6s and that just made NO SENSE to me. It didn't add up. I was thinking it should be going the other way.

Now I know I wasn't crazy in my thinking... thanks for the info.

*
 
I agree the Truck I ran with 2 -- 3S packs was left at 20T and ran great lots of power and lots and lots of speed. I would like to strap a GPS on it, I bet it was in the 50's easy but never got it to full speed cuz I ran out of space.

Also after some good runs with this truck everything was relatively cool. I could place my hand on anything with no worries. However, they were only 10min long runs each time.
 
Alrighty I got it and I want to discuss this matter first. Is the spur gear mesh anything like the nitro savage? It seems REALLY tight, like it binds. Its easy to check but for the price it could be set right. Maybe this is why people are saying the drivetrain seems noisey/the pinion wears out, because it deffently comming from the spur/pinion. Does it seem that way because the motor doesent turn as freely as a clutch bell would? Or is it just set too tight?
 
Well I know that but I'm saying its REALLY tight. It's so tight I can see how people are wearing these out/falling off. It makes sense why people say it makes a lot of noise and why some overheat/blow theres up on the stock 20T. It's wayyyy to tight. UNLESS thats how the motor makes it feel. Ive never delt with a BL motor this size so I'm not sure about how freely it turns. What I'm saying is on a nitro the clutch bell will spin freely when the truck is off. That makes the intire system spin freely as long as the brake is applied. On my fulx its deff binding from the factory.
 
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There should be some play just like a Nitro as whip said. The BL motor does and will have steps. The Flux does seem to have alot of gear noise compaired to running a nitro with a Plastic gear.

The Motor make's it feel very funny and wierd expecially compaired to that of a Nitro with a free spinning CB.
 
Ahhh thats what I was wondering. I have a feeling its still to tight but it sure doesent spin like a clutch bell. I'm going to re-mesh it now and get some pics up.
Thanks for the help guys =]
 
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