HPI Savage XL Engine replacement with LRP ZR .32

[aguiquin]

I am replacing my savage 5.9 to LRP ZR .32. Is there anything else that I need to mount the engine? Does it use the same mount and bolts as the 5.9?

Any ideas will help as i am already ordered the engine, it will be bummer when it gets here and i found out i can't mount because i needed some conversion parts.

Thank you for the help!

 

[Jam Racing 1]

everything on your existing engine will swap to the LRP no problem

 

[aguiquin]

everything on your existing engine will swap to the lrp no problem

thank you. really appreciate it.

 

[olds97_lss]

You may want to order a new HPI header gasket. If I remember right, the LRP one is thinner than what the HPI header needs. And odds are, the one on your old engine is junk.

 

[aguiquin]

You may want to order a new HPI header gasket. If I remember right, the LRP one is thinner than what the HPI header needs. And odds are, the one on your old engine is junk.

thank you, i will do that.

 

[aguiquin]

everything on your existing engine will swap to the LRP no problem

i just realized on lrp zr .32 there are diff specs.. i think i ordered a spec 4. will that fit the savage xl?

thanks.

 

[olds97_lss]

i just realized on lrp zr .32 there are diff specs.. i think i ordered a spec 4. will that fit the savage xl?

thanks.

They change the spec whenever they alter the engine, either for performance, looks or anything else. It will still fit in the same big block engine mounts. I have a spec2 30 and a spec3 28, both fit in the same engine mount.

 

[Brixfix13]

yes the spec 4 is direct fit into the xl. You will want a new hpi header gasket as suggested previously. The one that comes with the motor is too thin and fuel leaks out. Found that out the hard way. The motor is a beast though. Easy tuning, easy starting, Tons of power. Makes that 5.9 it had in it seem like a new born kitten. I run 30% in mine. Unstoppable. I've ran 1 1/2 gallons through mine and she's really making some power now. Love that lrp

Make sure to check the factory settings as mine were off which seems to happen some. Also make sure the preheat the motor. Right after I bought mine but before I could break it in i kept seeing all these posts online about hard starting motors and broken pull ropes. I preheated my motor and it started on the 2nd pull right out of the box. To this day it's usually a 1 pull motor. It has alot of torque, slipper clutch has caused some issue. I've got my nut tightened all the way without causing the spring to slip over itself and loctite to hold it. Seems to be working for now. I read a how to about making better gripping longer lasting slipper clutch pads from leather I might try.

 

[aguiquin]

everything on your existing engine will swap to the LRP no problem

L

They change the spec whenever they alter the engine, either for performance, looks or anything else. It will still fit in the same big block engine mounts. I have a spec2 30 and a spec3 28, both fit in the same engine mount.

hi i finally had had the chance to open my lrp zr .32 engine and i noticed something different at once that i am wondering if i ordered the wrong kind. i noticed that the throttle on the lrp is on the right side and the savage xl actually have the throttle arms on the left side. is there a different model? i looked up some savage with mounted lrp engines on youtube and they appear to be mounted the same wayas the hpi engine with throttle/gas tank on the left and header/exhaust on the right. what am i missing?

Thank you.

 

[Jam Racing 1]

No it is all good, just loosen the carburetor hold down screw on the side of the and rotate it to the other side. it may be necessary to just remove it and switch it around.... you will also have to loosen the banjo fitting on the high needle assembly and rotate that to the rear position...

 

[Brixfix13]

Yep flip the carb around. Had to do the same thing with mine

 

[aguiquin]

thank you guys. i am glad, i thought i ordered the wrong one.

 

[aguiquin]

Yep flip the carb around. Had to do the same thing with mine

hi can you please help? how did you flip the carburator? i already removed the carburator bolt but it won't turn. I am not sure if i need pull it out a bit or something. Just worried i would damage it so figure i might as well ask from someone who have done it before.

Thank you so much, really appreciate the help.

 

[Brixfix13]

hi can you please help? how did you flip the carburator? i already removed the carburator bolt but it won't turn. I am not sure if i need pull it out a bit or something. Just worried i would damage it so figure i might as well ask from someone who have done it before.

Thank you so much, really appreciate the help.

You're going to have to get a bit forceful with it. Try slightly twisting it back and forth while pulling straight out. It will come out, just use a little muscle. You don't have to remove the carb bolt, just loosen it. It won't hurt to remove it but it's uneccessary and won't make it any easier.

 

[aguiquin]

i finally got it work. thank you all for the help. Lrp sounds good..

 

[aguiquin]

I am still breaking in the lrp. I noticed that throttle is a bit stiff that i have to push the radio to brake to send throttle back in. Is that normal during break in? Should i replace the throttle rod with that adjustable one? My other 4.6 with a 5.9 engine has an adjustable rod.

 

[GAJ]

Break in will not affect the throttle movement. Check that the throttle is being pulled in a straight line and not binding anywhere. Pull off the throttle rod and check movement of the barrel is smooth. Make sure that you have a throttle return spring, this pulls the barrel closed, and is a needed safety item.

 

[Brixfix13]

The throttle linkage/arm that came with my .32 motor is adjustable.

 

[wizzel1]

View attachment 3728 View attachment 3729 I am still breaking in the lrp. I noticed that throttle is a bit stiff that i have to push the radio to brake to send throttle back in. Is that normal during break in? Should i replace the throttle rod with that adjustable one? My other 4.6 with a 5.9 engine has an adjustable rod.

NICE !!!! Were did you get that Brake / throttle linkage ? Can it be bought separately . 🙂

 

[GAJ]

Search the forum for "OFNA throttle" you should find some threads.

 

[wizzel1]

In your engine manual doe's it have part #s for the linkage? I did search the forums and some of the parts that were used are discontinued . OFNA does not sell to the public so I can not cross reference the part #s Thanks Pat 🙁

 

[Jam Racing 1]

Yes the OFNA linkage kits are hard to find these days, you can still make the linkages out of some music wire and some collars and use a piece of threaded rod for the throttle linkage with a small ball end still used by some kits, just need to get creative is all...

I made mine out of stuff I had laying around my parts bin of spares....

 

[aguiquin]

NICE !!!! Were did you get that Brake / throttle linkage ? Can it be bought separately . 🙂

thank you. that's my problem, i bought the truck used and that throttle/brake linkage is already in there. i am also looking for one to upgrade the XL i just got. i will continue looking and let you know if i find it.. can you please do the same if you find one too?

thanks.

 

[aguiquin]

Break in will not affect the throttle movement. Check that the throttle is being pulled in a straight line and not binding anywhere. Pull off the throttle rod and check movement of the barrel is smooth. Make sure that you have a throttle return spring, this pulls the barrel closed, and is a needed safety item.

thank you man. you are right i forgot to install the throttle return spring. no wonder why the lrp is always screaming.

 

[wizzel1]

thank you. that's my problem, i bought the truck used and that throttle/brake linkage is already in there. i am also looking for one to upgrade the XL i just got. i will continue looking and let you know if i find it.. can you please do the same if you find one too?

thanks.

HI, I made own linkage out of airplane / heli / and truck parts. Looks good and works better than the stock linkage. The savage XL also makes a great tow truck ! 🙂

 

[ez2frag]

hi can you please help? how did you flip the carburator? i already removed the carburator bolt but it won't turn. I am not sure if i need pull it out a bit or something. Just worried i would damage it so figure i might as well ask from someone who have done it before.

Thank you so much, really appreciate the help.

take the sleeves out. you have to push them out with the bolt out, just don't drop them.

 

[olds97_lss]

I usually back the bolt out a little bit then tap on it to dislodge the one of the cinch pieces from the carb. Once you do that, you can usually wiggle/twist the carb back and forth and it will break free from the other cinch piece.

Some are multi-piece, others are a single piece.

This is a one piece, when the nut tightens, the curved part bites into the side of the carb to keep it locked in:

With that, you loosen the nut a bit, then tap on it to force it into the engine and dislodge it from the side of the carb neck.

This is a multi-piece:

The part on the bolt head side isn't threaded and as the bolt is tightened, the other side that is threaded is pulled towards the carb and the side on the bolt head side slides into the other side of the carb, so it's locked in by both sides vs just one like the 1 piece up above. For this kind, backing the bolt out a few turns, then tapping on the head of the bolt dislodges the opposing side, then you wiggle the carb to get it to dislodge the other side.

With all the engines I've ever owned, I've never seen one with o-rings on it like that multi-piece one I posted here. I'd usually take them out, clean the oil/fuel off it and out of the hole, then put RTV in it when installing the pieces to ensure an air tight seal. Guess I just never had a "good" engine. lol!