Got the lemon running

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F-Type

Well-Known Member
Messages
278
Location
Gothenburg - Center of the Universe
Hi guys, I'm back!

Did you miss me? Ha-ha, bet you didn't even notice I was gone :)

Is there anyone around here any more, or is Octane stone dead now?

In any case, as you may remember. I was fighting a lot with my octane engine trying to get it running. Checked everything about the engine, compression, carb pump pulses, etc, only to conclude it was in mint condition. Same thing with the carb, checked everything, did leakage tests, pressure tests and stuff, tried it on another engine (bigger leafblower engine) just to conclude that it was in mint condition. Still, the engine wouldn't run.

So now, the engine has been put aside for quite a while. In the end my conclusion was that there really isn't anything wrong with either the engine or the carb. It is the combination of the two that is all wrong, and that is why so many more than me have problems. With a bit of luck, you get it running, for a while, sometimes, -ish.

Too big a carb on too small an engine. Simple as that. The Walbro WT-668 used on the Octane has a 15.88 mm bore, which is big even for an engine twice the size of the octane, and in general recommended for 50cc+ engines. Bigger bore/venture gives more power, people say, but it's not like there are no other differences, otherwise everyone would use bigger carbs, no doubt. It comes with the drawbacks of flooded engines (check) and extremely sensitive on carb tuning (check) for instance.

In any case, if this is the problem, somehow somewhere I should be able to get my Octane running with this carb, even if it is tough finding the tuning that will work.

One other thing I have been on about before is the air restrictor in the filter, or between the filter and the carb. Why on earth would anyone wanna restrict the air? Well, if you put on an oversized carb ... ... ... (yeah, it is really so incredibly stupid, what where they thinking?)

Also, what I noticed, by chance, when experimenting with limiting the airflow even further, was that the air restrictor is not symmetrical, it can be put in no less than four different ways, add to that the two different ways you can put the little t-shirt shaped sorry piece of plastic "fly" under the restrictor, you get 8 different ways of putting it back. I wonder how many Octane owners managed to get that back in the correct position every time. Because, what I noticed was, that it makes a difference, a difference of go or no go, one way or the other. How many of you realized that, 8 different ways, only 1 correct. Yup.

And, in the end, funny enough, I managed to get my engine running, when the low speed needle was set to 1 & 1/10 turn out, not 2 & 7/12 or whatever the updated manual stated.

Now, the problem I had, and still to some extent have, is to get idle speed down. I am probably running a bit lean, and if I turn the low speed out further, the engine stutters and stops. However, when the engine heats up, I can adjust out / down a bit to what seems like a more normal idle rpm. And guess what, the low speed needle then ends up close to 1 and 1/4 turn out. Now, go read the original manual, not the updated one. Yup, there we go again, recommended low speed needle setting 1 & 1/4 turn out. It's in the f*cking manual. But not the updated one, that HPI said you should use if engine won't run. But it'll only work in that setting once the engine is hot. Cold, 1&1/10 is what works. On my engine, yours could be different!

The combination of this engine and this carb, band-aided with a f*cking air restrictor on the air intake, is probably the worst piece of poop engineering I have seen in my entire life. And I have seen a few things. Now, the engine is fine, and the carb is fine too. But not the two together, and the air restrictor confirms that.

Well well. You might say, if you, against all odds, remember that I have said several times before that I found the problem and got the engine running, so why believe me this time? Well, first of all, I didn't jump to conclusions this time. It's been three days. Ever since I got the engine running the first time three days ago, it hasn't failed me one single time. Not one. Also, there is no "magic", no odd additions or changes. Back to basics. Everyting back to original, everything at factory setting, properly fitted. Only carb adjustments, nothing else.

Cold it starts after 3-4 pulls. Once started from cold, it will start again on the first pull, every single time, without exception. I've been through half a tank in three days, (not much I know) but running on the bench half a minute - minute a time, it makes a hell of a difference compared to before when a long run was 5 seconds, and rare. Now I can stop and re-start, with confidence.

Now, my main recommendation to anyone with an octane on the shelf, get a smaller carb, I'd recommend a Walbro 9,5 mm. I haven't had the chance to test one myself, but I bet it will be a hell of a lot easier getting that to run with the engine, than the stock WT-668 which is made for a lot larger engines. (LIke my leaf blower which runs a lot better with the octane walbro carb than with its own china-crap-carb I can tell you).

Well, that's all for now! If there is still someone out there, listening on the "Octane"-channel, at least say Hi, so I know you're there! :)

Thanx!
 
I'm happy you found a band-aid big enough to fit the octane lol. Never owned one I've heard tooooo many horror stories. If I ever found one for a steal I might give her a try but doubt it.
 
Ok, so, today I did what I have been thinking about for a while. I replaced the carb for one with a smaller bore/venturi, a Walbro WT-300A. The engine started right away and was easy to adjust to a nice and stable idle. BIG DIFFERENCE.

I have only tested on the workbench so far, so have no idea how it will run in the car, though.

But in any case, using a carb that is more of a matched size for this size engine definitely made a huge difference. Certainly something to try for anyone having start-stall issues.

THough the WT300A is not the best choice, no primer, no choke and gas lever on wrong side. I just tried that one because I had it. There are other alteratives that would be a better choice to replace the stock WT-668 straight on.

And of course, no air restrictor or anything alike was needed ;)
 
So with the 300A not being the best , what would you recommend? Anything off the top of your head?
 
Hi guys, I'm back!

Did you miss me? Ha-ha, bet you didn't even notice I was gone :)

Is there anyone around here any more, or is Octane stone dead now?

In any case, as you may remember. I was fighting a lot with my octane engine trying to get it running. Checked everything about the engine, compression, carb pump pulses, etc, only to conclude it was in mint condition. Same thing with the carb, checked everything, did leakage tests, pressure tests and stuff, tried it on another engine (bigger leafblower engine) just to conclude that it was in mint condition. Still, the engine wouldn't run.

So now, the engine has been put aside for quite a while. In the end my conclusion was that there really isn't anything wrong with either the engine or the carb. It is the combination of the two that is all wrong, and that is why so many more than me have problems. With a bit of luck, you get it running, for a while, sometimes, -ish.

Too big a carb on too small an engine. Simple as that. The Walbro WT-668 used on the Octane has a 15.88 mm bore, which is big even for an engine twice the size of the octane, and in general recommended for 50cc+ engines. Bigger bore/venture gives more power, people say, but it's not like there are no other differences, otherwise everyone would use bigger carbs, no doubt. It comes with the drawbacks of flooded engines (check) and extremely sensitive on carb tuning (check) for instance.

In any case, if this is the problem, somehow somewhere I should be able to get my Octane running with this carb, even if it is tough finding the tuning that will work.

One other thing I have been on about before is the air restrictor in the filter, or between the filter and the carb. Why on earth would anyone wanna restrict the air? Well, if you put on an oversized carb ... ... ... (yeah, it is really so incredibly stupid, what where they thinking?)

Also, what I noticed, by chance, when experimenting with limiting the airflow even further, was that the air restrictor is not symmetrical, it can be put in no less than four different ways, add to that the two different ways you can put the little t-shirt shaped sorry piece of plastic "fly" under the restrictor, you get 8 different ways of putting it back. I wonder how many Octane owners managed to get that back in the correct position every time. Because, what I noticed was, that it makes a difference, a difference of go or no go, one way or the other. How many of you realized that, 8 different ways, only 1 correct. Yup.

And, in the end, funny enough, I managed to get my engine running, when the low speed needle was set to 1 & 1/10 turn out, not 2 & 7/12 or whatever the updated manual stated.

Now, the problem I had, and still to some extent have, is to get idle speed down. I am probably running a bit lean, and if I turn the low speed out further, the engine stutters and stops. However, when the engine heats up, I can adjust out / down a bit to what seems like a more normal idle rpm. And guess what, the low speed needle then ends up close to 1 and 1/4 turn out. Now, go read the original manual, not the updated one. Yup, there we go again, recommended low speed needle setting 1 & 1/4 turn out. It's in the f*cking manual. But not the updated one, that HPI said you should use if engine won't run. But it'll only work in that setting once the engine is hot. Cold, 1&1/10 is what works. On my engine, yours could be different!

The combination of this engine and this carb, band-aided with a f*cking air restrictor on the air intake, is probably the worst piece of poop engineering I have seen in my entire life. And I have seen a few things. Now, the engine is fine, and the carb is fine too. But not the two together, and the air restrictor confirms that.

Well well. You might say, if you, against all odds, remember that I have said several times before that I found the problem and got the engine running, so why believe me this time? Well, first of all, I didn't jump to conclusions this time. It's been three days. Ever since I got the engine running the first time three days ago, it hasn't failed me one single time. Not one. Also, there is no "magic", no odd additions or changes. Back to basics. Everyting back to original, everything at factory setting, properly fitted. Only carb adjustments, nothing else.

Cold it starts after 3-4 pulls. Once started from cold, it will start again on the first pull, every single time, without exception. I've been through half a tank in three days, (not much I know) but running on the bench half a minute - minute a time, it makes a hell of a difference compared to before when a long run was 5 seconds, and rare. Now I can stop and re-start, with confidence.

Now, my main recommendation to anyone with an octane on the shelf, get a smaller carb, I'd recommend a Walbro 9,5 mm. I haven't had the chance to test one myself, but I bet it will be a hell of a lot easier getting that to run with the engine, than the stock WT-668 which is made for a lot larger engines. (LIke my leaf blower which runs a lot better with the octane walbro carb than with its own china-crap-carb I can tell you).

Well, that's all for now! If there is still someone out there, listening on the "Octane"-channel, at least say Hi, so I know you're there! :)

Thanx!
Hi guys, I'm back!

Did you miss me? Ha-ha, bet you didn't even notice I was gone :)

Is there anyone around here any more, or is Octane stone dead now?

In any case, as you may remember. I was fighting a lot with my octane engine trying to get it running. Checked everything about the engine, compression, carb pump pulses, etc, only to conclude it was in mint condition. Same thing with the carb, checked everything, did leakage tests, pressure tests and stuff, tried it on another engine (bigger leafblower engine) just to conclude that it was in mint condition. Still, the engine wouldn't run.

So now, the engine has been put aside for quite a while. In the end my conclusion was that there really isn't anything wrong with either the engine or the carb. It is the combination of the two that is all wrong, and that is why so many more than me have problems. With a bit of luck, you get it running, for a while, sometimes, -ish.

Too big a carb on too small an engine. Simple as that. The Walbro WT-668 used on the Octane has a 15.88 mm bore, which is big even for an engine twice the size of the octane, and in general recommended for 50cc+ engines. Bigger bore/venture gives more power, people say, but it's not like there are no other differences, otherwise everyone would use bigger carbs, no doubt. It comes with the drawbacks of flooded engines (check) and extremely sensitive on carb tuning (check) for instance.

In any case, if this is the problem, somehow somewhere I should be able to get my Octane running with this carb, even if it is tough finding the tuning that will work.

One other thing I have been on about before is the air restrictor in the filter, or between the filter and the carb. Why on earth would anyone wanna restrict the air? Well, if you put on an oversized carb ... ... ... (yeah, it is really so incredibly stupid, what where they thinking?)

Also, what I noticed, by chance, when experimenting with limiting the airflow even further, was that the air restrictor is not symmetrical, it can be put in no less than four different ways, add to that the two different ways you can put the little t-shirt shaped sorry piece of plastic "fly" under the restrictor, you get 8 different ways of putting it back. I wonder how many Octane owners managed to get that back in the correct position every time. Because, what I noticed was, that it makes a difference, a difference of go or no go, one way or the other. How many of you realized that, 8 different ways, only 1 correct. Yup.

And, in the end, funny enough, I managed to get my engine running, when the low speed needle was set to 1 & 1/10 turn out, not 2 & 7/12 or whatever the updated manual stated.

Now, the problem I had, and still to some extent have, is to get idle speed down. I am probably running a bit lean, and if I turn the low speed out further, the engine stutters and stops. However, when the engine heats up, I can adjust out / down a bit to what seems like a more normal idle rpm. And guess what, the low speed needle then ends up close to 1 and 1/4 turn out. Now, go read the original manual, not the updated one. Yup, there we go again, recommended low speed needle setting 1 & 1/4 turn out. It's in the f*cking manual. But not the updated one, that HPI said you should use if engine won't run. But it'll only work in that setting once the engine is hot. Cold, 1&1/10 is what works. On my engine, yours could be different!

The combination of this engine and this carb, band-aided with a f*cking air restrictor on the air intake, is probably the worst piece of poop engineering I have seen in my entire life. And I have seen a few things. Now, the engine is fine, and the carb is fine too. But not the two together, and the air restrictor confirms that.

Well well. You might say, if you, against all odds, remember that I have said several times before that I found the problem and got the engine running, so why believe me this time? Well, first of all, I didn't jump to conclusions this time. It's been three days. Ever since I got the engine running the first time three days ago, it hasn't failed me one single time. Not one. Also, there is no "magic", no odd additions or changes. Back to basics. Everyting back to original, everything at factory setting, properly fitted. Only carb adjustments, nothing else.

Cold it starts after 3-4 pulls. Once started from cold, it will start again on the first pull, every single time, without exception. I've been through half a tank in three days, (not much I know) but running on the bench half a minute - minute a time, it makes a hell of a difference compared to before when a long run was 5 seconds, and rare. Now I can stop and re-start, with confidence.

Now, my main recommendation to anyone with an octane on the shelf, get a smaller carb, I'd recommend a Walbro 9,5 mm. I haven't had the chance to test one myself, but I bet it will be a hell of a lot easier getting that to run with the engine, than the stock WT-668 which is made for a lot larger engines. (LIke my leaf blower which runs a lot better with the octane walbro carb than with its own china-crap-carb I can tell you).

Well, that's all for now! If there is still someone out there, listening on the "Octane"-channel, at least say Hi, so I know you're there! :)

Thanx!
Hi I'm still here. I'm going to try what you did to your. I'll let you know how it goes
 
Hey F-type, Mark, and everyone else lurking around. After leaving the hobby due to divorce and selling off nearly everything, I somehow still have my octane lol. The reason being it was hiding in my brother's house, great =).

So 2 days ago, I was like oh hell let's see if it starts up as is. That said after sitting 2 years at my bro's house, but it worked fine back then as stock.

Charged the stock batteries but realized hpi ones were toast. Got some venom 1600 hump packs charged those up, put the fuel from 4 years ago (I know I'm bad lol, gave that gas a good shake), and started pulling.

Thing fired up no problems on 7th pull after 3 choke ones and shot out of the garage like the road runner cartoons and started to crush the bushes. I had to adjust the throttle arm and trim, but that was it.

Ran the truck for 1 hour straight driving and popping wheelies it was fun (got rid of all that old gas mix). I'm just blessed this octane was not 1 of the lemons. Originally, the first octane I got was the lemon, but my local hobby store took care of me and dealt with hpi directly and got me my current truck.

In other words, my original replacement truck has been working ever since. I think now I'm going to make a custom body for it.
 
Hi guys, I'm back!

Did you miss me? Ha-ha, bet you didn't even notice I was gone :)

Is there anyone around here any more, or is Octane stone dead now?

In any case, as you may remember. I was fighting a lot with my octane engine trying to get it running. Checked everything about the engine, compression, carb pump pulses, etc, only to conclude it was in mint condition. Same thing with the carb, checked everything, did leakage tests, pressure tests and stuff, tried it on another engine (bigger leafblower engine) just to conclude that it was in mint condition. Still, the engine wouldn't run.

So now, the engine has been put aside for quite a while. In the end my conclusion was that there really isn't anything wrong with either the engine or the carb. It is the combination of the two that is all wrong, and that is why so many more than me have problems. With a bit of luck, you get it running, for a while, sometimes, -ish.

Too big a carb on too small an engine. Simple as that. The Walbro WT-668 used on the Octane has a 15.88 mm bore, which is big even for an engine twice the size of the octane, and in general recommended for 50cc+ engines. Bigger bore/venture gives more power, people say, but it's not like there are no other differences, otherwise everyone would use bigger carbs, no doubt. It comes with the drawbacks of flooded engines (check) and extremely sensitive on carb tuning (check) for instance.

In any case, if this is the problem, somehow somewhere I should be able to get my Octane running with this carb, even if it is tough finding the tuning that will work.

One other thing I have been on about before is the air restrictor in the filter, or between the filter and the carb. Why on earth would anyone wanna restrict the air? Well, if you put on an oversized carb ... ... ... (yeah, it is really so incredibly stupid, what where they thinking?)

Also, what I noticed, by chance, when experimenting with limiting the airflow even further, was that the air restrictor is not symmetrical, it can be put in no less than four different ways, add to that the two different ways you can put the little t-shirt shaped sorry piece of plastic "fly" under the restrictor, you get 8 different ways of putting it back. I wonder how many Octane owners managed to get that back in the correct position every time. Because, what I noticed was, that it makes a difference, a difference of go or no go, one way or the other. How many of you realized that, 8 different ways, only 1 correct. Yup.

And, in the end, funny enough, I managed to get my engine running, when the low speed needle was set to 1 & 1/10 turn out, not 2 & 7/12 or whatever the updated manual stated.

Now, the problem I had, and still to some extent have, is to get idle speed down. I am probably running a bit lean, and if I turn the low speed out further, the engine stutters and stops. However, when the engine heats up, I can adjust out / down a bit to what seems like a more normal idle rpm. And guess what, the low speed needle then ends up close to 1 and 1/4 turn out. Now, go read the original manual, not the updated one. Yup, there we go again, recommended low speed needle setting 1 & 1/4 turn out. It's in the f*cking manual. But not the updated one, that HPI said you should use if engine won't run. But it'll only work in that setting once the engine is hot. Cold, 1&1/10 is what works. On my engine, yours could be different!

The combination of this engine and this carb, band-aided with a f*cking air restrictor on the air intake, is probably the worst piece of poop engineering I have seen in my entire life. And I have seen a few things. Now, the engine is fine, and the carb is fine too. But not the two together, and the air restrictor confirms that.

Well well. You might say, if you, against all odds, remember that I have said several times before that I found the problem and got the engine running, so why believe me this time? Well, first of all, I didn't jump to conclusions this time. It's been three days. Ever since I got the engine running the first time three days ago, it hasn't failed me one single time. Not one. Also, there is no "magic", no odd additions or changes. Back to basics. Everyting back to original, everything at factory setting, properly fitted. Only carb adjustments, nothing else.

Cold it starts after 3-4 pulls. Once started from cold, it will start again on the first pull, every single time, without exception. I've been through half a tank in three days, (not much I know) but running on the bench half a minute - minute a time, it makes a hell of a difference compared to before when a long run was 5 seconds, and rare. Now I can stop and re-start, with confidence.

Now, my main recommendation to anyone with an octane on the shelf, get a smaller carb, I'd recommend a Walbro 9,5 mm. I haven't had the chance to test one myself, but I bet it will be a hell of a lot easier getting that to run with the engine, than the stock WT-668 which is made for a lot larger engines. (LIke my leaf blower which runs a lot better with the octane walbro carb than with its own china-crap-carb I can tell you).

Well, that's all for now! If there is still someone out there, listening on the "Octane"-channel, at least say Hi, so I know you're there! :)

Thanx!

Admittedly, I haven't run into these issues YET because I just got 2 of them in trade and have yet to run them but, I enjoyed reading this post ! I'll post on here in a few days about how my test run goes ?

Ryan
 
Hi I am getting a octane in the very near future and your post are very helpful and if I have any issue I will be deff using ur post and all the other great people on this forum hope I don’t have any major issues with the octane cuz even brand used there not very cheap but ya gotta pay to play so they say lol
 
Hi I am getting a octane in the very near future and your post are very helpful and if I have any issue I will be deff using ur post and all the other great people on this forum hope I don’t have any major issues with the octane cuz even brand used there not very cheap but ya gotta pay to play so they say lol


There are MUCH BETTER rigs out there than the Octane, Losi makes a true 1/8 gasoline powered truck that is 10 times what the octane is...... so unless you have lots of time and experience I would steer clear of that one....
 
I have lots of exsprience with 2 stroke motorcycle engines and with small engines and carbs I really like hpi n the Losi is only a 5cc engine if I am not mistaken I am really torn between the two lol
 
Hi was wondering what carb would be best to get get to step down from stock carb thanks for all the info and help really glad I am a member and found this forum Merry Christmas
 
Should b getting octane soon would like to know what carb would b best to get if I run into issues I have looked at a site that sells walbro carbs and typed In 9.5 mm but nothing comes up any help will be greatly appreciated
 
Seem like good truck to me but I am still a newbie I have researched a lot about them and all the problems and how to fix em I am actually looking foward to running my octane soon as weather breaks why did you give up on yours seanthemechanic???
 
Hi guys...well if I have anything to say about it, the Octane scene won't ever be extinct...I just acquired my third one, although have yet to get them out. Busy with other projects already started, but rest assured, the Octane will be a focal point of my efforts once some of the MGTs, LSTs, & a cpl Savages I have are sold. I recently re-entered the hobby in a big way in May 2017 after being on the sidelines for a few years. What immediately struck me was the demise of the nitro Monster trucks, virtual disappearance of reverse capability in anything nitro, & of course the emergence of brushless power. So I went on a reckless, frantic buying-binge that lasted until, well, the present.... Currently 19 MGTs of various types, 11 Savages (including an XL Flux), 8 LST 1/2s (including among the LAST two NIB XXL2 .31 trucks on the internet) And some nitro 4-TECs, NTC3s that I rebuilt, although I was never really into touring cars. It was more the fact that so many of the cool nitro vehicles were being rapidly discontinued. So yeah, I have an addiction....and I need an INTERVENTION......but not today though, haha. As stated in other posts, most of these are fun projects that will eventually be sold. I will keep a collection of nice ones although I want to be careful that I leave myself some good bashers, not just shelf-Queens
 
I had been running an XL with an LRP .32 quite a bit till bad weather hit, but have not gotten to run the Octanes yet; one has never seen fuel at all yet, the other two had been run by their previous owners with apparently little problems; the one has reportedly had 4 tanks run thru it & the one I just got has had about 2.5 gallons run thru it with no complaints. Again, this is word from the previous owners; I've been busy with completing a project now but will definitely report on when I get the Octanes rolling
 
Wow I felt the same been buying a rebuilding the old nitros half the battle is finding the parts here is a part of my current collection 6269
 
^^Indeed a Righteous effort..!!^^ Yes, finding key parts is only gonna get harder. The money I recover from the trucks I do sell is gonna go right back into stocking parts for the ones I keep.
6275
This is the Octane I just picked up. Has 2.5 gallons of GAS thru it :) (per previous owner) Cant wait to get it out. Just gotta love the weather we've been having in the midwest here... Will report on how it runs. Post a vid if I can.
 
I am looking foward to running my octane but in the same sense a lil scared cuz of all the horror stories I have checked the Hsn and lsn and have put them to stock setting per a few posts I have read for stock settings I have read up a lot on the beast and hope I have a good one if not I won’t give up till it’s crankin wheelies lol...sounds and looks like yas all have nice collections I kinda put my buying on hold due to gettin a 2019 Honda Grom which I will be able to play on to and from work but after that it’s gonna b all bout my mt’s I have two nitro monster Kings a hpi bullet mt a Savage 21 and a octane xl and the only one I have ran since getting into hobby late last summer is the bullet so all the other will need tuned and the 21 n octane will need broke in due to like new condition with only start up ran in them I did lube the cyl. so they wouldn’t rust on me can’t wait for warm weather sorry for long post been awhile since my last post...589FC160-9F6F-4411-A709-D66862DB20BF.jpegCAB24108-9430-4267-B54B-A4376889BE91.jpeg589FC160-9F6F-4411-A709-D66862DB20BF.jpegCAB24108-9430-4267-B54B-A4376889BE91.jpeg3ABCDA28-8C68-429E-AD9D-D0D94EC5799C.jpeg
 
Sweeet .21 you got there, BTW. Weather here in Wisconsin has been miserable, but really prioritizing my Octanes when I get going. I want to look into the rear tracks for snow running in the winter, either with skis or tracks in front, depending on what I can find. Integy's key hub parts for the tracks are MIA....Even thinking of getting a small milling machine to try to make my own. If anyone out there has a set of tracks and has used them, I'm more than interested in hearing more about how well they work. Meanwhile, I'm still slowly assembling my .21. I'll post some pics on the other .21 thread. Seeing these pics gives me spring fever, good luck to all..!!
 
Thanks buddy....any pointers for me when I do break out the octane this spring any would be greatly appreciated also what other forum is there for.21 you’re talkin about??? Like I have said I am a newbie but a very good motorcycle tech which is my day job and has been for bout 10+ yrs I have been around 2strokes so I know a bit about them just the octane has me a lil gun shy due to the horror stories lol...can’t wait to see your pics my .21 has only been started twice I got it from a guy who has a pile of nitros and it was a shelf queen but that is changein this spring lol
 
Is your octane brand new? Yes there has been mostly pain-in-the-@$$ stories about breaking in the Octane engine, but beyond that they run like a beast after like 20 tanks....there are also cases where the engine has started/run great out of the box, tough to say what the difference is. Make sure your batterys are topped off, the ignition is sensitive to low voltage. (Li-Po upgrades are common) Looking at some of the videos, it seems like they have problems getting fuel, like maybe pressing the primer a bit after its started may help. The Walbro carb is VERY sensitive to adjustments, as the threads on the screws are very coarse, so 1/24th turn adjustments are best. A common trick is to move the ignition out of the radio box to right behind the fuel tank to get it away from the batteries & receiver, but you will want to do something to keep it dry. Be patient!! I've heard a lot of depressing stories of guys giving up too soon on this awesome piece of RC history. The reward with this truck is WELL worth the effort. There is another thread on THIS forum discussing the original Savage .21 that I was active with; your choice rig fits right in. Your experience with two-strokes should give you a leg-up with the Octane, these are kinda like tiny weed-eater engines. I used to race motocross back in the 80's, so that helps me some...let us know about your experiences when you get motoring!!!
 
It’s looks brand new the people I got her from found her in a storage shed along with some electric rc vehicles they tried to start it but the fuel they showed me they used was something already premixed they said it started up and ran like few seconds then shut off and the batts weren’t full charged so that also was a issue I think, I checked the hsn n the lsn and they spot on factory settings and the piston and exhaust look brand new with no carbon build up like a 2stroke normally would have I will def keep my progress posted and will not give up till she is crankin wheelies lol thanks for all ur info and help will def be lookin for more advise if problems arise n are beyond my knowledge or the fm factor lol
 
Man like almost a year later from last post lol.

Mine is still running pretty good stock believe it or not, got it some new batteries and getting around 45 minutes of bash time. Also, bought that melkin exhaust pipe as well and that was a good upgrade, love the new sound. Finally, I made a new body for it Chevy Silverado Proline one.

I'm waiting for it to break so I can have an excuse to replace things with after market upgrades, but it's just a small heavy tank unless I plow it into a concrete sidewalk maybe I will break something.

I was thinking one day I would try a used baja 5b engine/carb combo and pick up a newer after market gdi unit, IF my truck went to sh*t, but it's still trucking along. The RC gods really blessed this one.
 

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Man like almost a year later from last post lol.

Mine is still running pretty good stock believe it or not, got it some new batteries and getting around 45 minutes of bash time. Also, bought that melkin exhaust pipe as well and that was a good upgrade, love the new sound. Finally, I made a new body for it Chevy Silverado Proline one.

I'm waiting for it to break so I can have an excuse to replace things with after market upgrades, but it's just a small heavy tank unless I plow it into a concrete sidewalk maybe I will break something.

I was thinking one day I would try a used baja 5b engine/carb combo and pick up a newer after market gdi unit, IF my truck went to sh*t, but it's still trucking along. The RC gods really blessed this one.
Pretty sure the 5B engine is way to big to fit in a savage octane.
 
Man like almost a year later from last post lol.

Mine is still running pretty good stock believe it or not, got it some new batteries and getting around 45 minutes of bash time. Also, bought that melkin exhaust pipe as well and that was a good upgrade, love the new sound. Finally, I made a new body for it Chevy Silverado Proline one.

I'm waiting for it to break so I can have an excuse to replace things with after market upgrades, but it's just a small heavy tank unless I plow it into a concrete sidewalk maybe I will break something.

I was thinking one day I would try a used baja 5b engine/carb combo and pick up a newer after market gdi unit, IF my truck went to sh*t, but it's still trucking along. The RC gods really blessed this one.
Thanks for the update finally got bats charged up and fuel can ready to try n get mine broke in this weekend hopefully the rc gods will smile on me as well Awsome lookin truck also buddy
 
^^Indeed a Righteous effort..!!^^ Yes, finding key parts is only gonna get harder. The money I recover from the trucks I do sell is gonna go right back into stocking parts for the ones I keep.
View attachment 6275
This is the Octane I just picked up. Has 2.5 gallons of GAS thru it :) (per previous owner) Cant wait to get it out. Just gotta love the weather we've been having in the midwest here... Will report on how it runs. Post a vid if I can.
where did you put the cdi box.
 

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