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outlaw weasel

outlaw weasel

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33
hi all I'm new to the forum. i have had a savage .25 since it came out around the 2004 time frame. it has sat in the closet for so long that the engine has completely locked up. i did a full cnc aluminum shock tower and a arm upgrade this last weekend and i also ordered a new k5.9 engine for it. I'm all ears for some suggestions about what clutch, gear ratio, and anything else i should throw into this beast?
 
Welcome Back to nitro...
if that engine is locked up it is probably due to being simply gummed up by residue and can be freed up with a good disassembly and cleaning... as for putting on alloy arms all I can say is I hope you like replacing bulkheads and gearcases, caz those will be the next things to break if you plan on bashing with alloy arms/shock towers and things like that, before running that 5.9 in ur chassis you may want to pull out the diffs and check them out to make sure all is good....
Enjoy the forum, is alot of great info here and a good bunch of guys also...
 
Man I'm trying to figure out this whole forum thing lol. I'm actually looking for any good lines on some alloy gear sets/diffs/gearboxes out there. I'm also wondering what the best bashing gear ratio, clutch setup is for this thing.
 
No real need to get alloy gears or any of that stuff, the Savage is pretty stout as it comes out of the box...
Only thing I recommend are checking the diffs and using alloy diff cups with the gears shimmed properly they outta be plenty good, if you plan on some HEAVY DUTY BASHING you might be smart to use the BP diff gear sets and a steel spur, My X is running a 47 spur and a 16 bell, and with an axial .32 it makes more than enough power for any situation I have been in with it.....
 
Ok ill try that. Any particular brand of dif cups you would recommend?
 
I'm using stock HPI savage diff cups to hold all my stuff, some guys like them blingy ones I prefer to use stock parts in mine.... nobody sees them anyway except for you the one who maintains it....



I get most my parts here http://www.rcplanet.com/
 
Jam is correct I have the older .25 also they did come with the plastic diff cups so please make sure if you are looking for the HPI Aluminum diff cups search for some of the new models like the 5.9. I currently have the Maximizer aluminium cups in my .25 SS my 5.9 has the stock HPI aluminum cups.
 
Will the new parts excluding the xl interchange between the newer and older generations of savages?
 
Yes fortunately HPI saw fit when they did the savage updates they left the chassis and drivetrain so pretty much any savage parts are interchangeable between all the models.... pretty smart of them to do , it keeps their platform current and alive....
 
welcome to :hpisf:weasel! as u can see, their are some pretty good guys on here that can help u with all of ur savage needs. and good choice on the 5.9, it should give the truck some good power! any other plans with the truck? any mods planned?{ and when u get it running, we like vids!}
 
I'm planning on doing as much as possible with this bad boy. As many cnc parts as possible, and one of those new rb innovations nitrous bullets would be fun. Fishing season is over here so this winter will deffinately be a nitro fueled bashfest lol.
 
outlaw weasel said:
And i will most deffinately post vids
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Also between deployment, moving to and from korea, and moving from washington state. I seem to have mosplaced my radio. Anyone have any suggestions on a good solid radio, and reciever package that is prefferably waterproof.
 
Welcome outlaw weasel!

outlaw weasel said:
I'm planning on doing as much as possible with this bad boy. As many cnc parts as possible, and one of those new rb innovations nitrous bullets would be fun. Fishing season is over here so this winter will deffinately be a nitro fueled bashfest lol.
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It's your RC and you should always do as you want with them, but I want to caution you a bit about using to much aluminum parts. As a rule, it's best to keep them out of any location that is meant to absorb impact. These parts should bend and flex so that other parts don't break. Some parts that should, in my opinion, remain plastic are the bumpers, A-arms and any sort of cage you put on.
 
Ill keep that in mind for future upgrades. I already had the cnc parts for about 2 years so i finally decided to just put them on. I haven been able to really find any places around me to get big air yet so i don't think that I'm gonna break anything hopefully.
 
it doesn't have to be big air. just anything. I broke an a-arm running into a pole in first gear. that's why I NEVER buy alum. parts for most of my savage.
 
sometimes it's like that with nitro. I've also done that multiple times since then and it does nothing. all in how u hit it. nitro trucks will break. even though the savage is the toughest truck on the market, it does break. the argument on wether to use alum. on some parts vs. plastic is all about what will break. with alum. a-arms, the diff box will break more,than with the plastic ones. the diff box is harder and slightly more expensive to replace. like woodie said, rpm a-rms give great durability, and only break when a lot of stress is put on them. however, my dad has had alum. a-arms on his 25 for years, and he loves them. he just breaks more pins.
 
What kind of threadlock are you all using. I'm not sure if i should use the normal red locktite or not on this project. Just for the simple fact that its really hard to get the screws back out after using it.
 
Get Permatex BLUE thread locking compound it is more than enough for RC needs......
 
outlaw weasel said:
What kind of threadlock are you all using.
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Get Blue Loctite sticks, these things are great. Same awesome formula in a stick form so that you can easily put the loctite exactly where you want it without it running or dripping off. No more worrying about spilled containers or leaving the cap off. I've been using the same single stick for the last 3-4 years easily!
 
Got my exhaust today
 

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