Garage Queen Savage 25 to XL Rebuild - A Project Log

xtremsavage

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Not too sure about that. I can check the gear set that I have and see if it does the same thing later tonight. I don't run the 2sp, but have the gears for it. Cheaper to buy a whole trans from ebay back in the day than to just buy the case itself.
 

ELWOOD

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@MooGoCow

I DON'T REMEMBER THAT MUCH PLAY, POSSIBLY ONE OF THESE GOT LEFT OUT ON REASSEMBLY , Z897 WASHER ,
Z235 SNAP RING OR SLOT FOR SNAP RING OR SNAP RING ITSELF IS IS WORN OUT ON 86087 ,
ALSO IT LOOKS LIKE THERE IS A BUSHING INSIDE OF 86087 .

1596415485071.png
 
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MooGoCow

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59
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Midlands
Not too sure about that. I can check the gear set that I have and see if it does the same thing later tonight. I don't run the 2sp, but have the gears for it. Cheaper to buy a whole trans from ebay back in the day than to just buy the case itself.

Thanks, that would be very helpful!!

All the components are fine, the gearbox itself has about 10 tanks through it and everything is as new, bearing is replaced (didn't really need replacing), z897 present, snap ring perfect.

The bearing doesn't sit 100% tightly on the shaft, there is play there and there is also play around the bearing when slotted inside the gear. Both are minimal but combined give the wobble.

There is zero sign of wear on any of these components which makes me think this is normal with the whole thing tightening up when the clutch expands.

Really not sure though.
 

guinnessdublin

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Messages
411
Location
England
Not 100% sure but do think there is slightly more play then should be, I have play on my 3 speed but half as much.
Have you checked wear on clutch holder itself & replaced the step hex screw that holds clutch holder in place, drive shaft where this step hex screw goes into the hole could be excessively worn to big perhaps?
 

MooGoCow

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59
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Midlands
I just accessed the gear via the 2 speed adjustment access and it seems pretty solid with the whole unit assembled. I removed the grub screw pin and tightened it up and threadlocked the additional grub screw on top but the play seems to be on the drive shaft bearing. The bearing was replaced but old and new had same play. I've checked the drive shaft and it's a consistent diameter right the way across so seems fine as well.

It was used a handful of times so everything looks as new.

If xtremesavage can check his tonight at least if know if it was close to normal, or knackered!
 

xtremsavage

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Jacksonville, Fl
20200804_044803.jpg

Moo, which style of gears do you have? They are both 2sp gear sets. The one on the right is a newer one compared to the left one. The left one with the "enclosed" clutch holder has twice as much play as the one on the right with the "open" clutch holder. I may be able to get a vid later today to show the difference.
 

MooGoCow

Active Member
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59
Location
Midlands
Thats re-assuring - its the one on the left with the enclosed clutch holder. Appreciate you taking the time to look bud, thank you.
 

MooGoCow

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Messages
59
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Midlands
Right, I know this is stupid but I've just spent an hour of my life that will never be returned trying to refit the spring on the fuel cap.

My google fu is failing, I cannot find a clear picture of how the spring sits to keep the cap closed. The only way I can see it working I cannot get it to fit.

Anybody have a close up photo of the spring so I can at least see which way it should go please?

Thanks!!
 

MooGoCow

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Messages
59
Location
Midlands
As soon as I posted this, went back and had one more go and got it on. Exactly the same as your pic - thanks Lokky appreciate that.

Couldn't get the pin through under tension but managed eventually. Proper 🍩
 

lokky

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Messages
211
Been a long time since I pulled a fuel cap apart.

Did you get the Fioroni clutch installed yet? Are you using the stock spring?
 

MooGoCow

Active Member
Messages
59
Location
Midlands
Fuel cap virgin here... No more though. They say you always remember the first time, in this case probably true!

Clutch not arrived yet but I have a UK tracking number now. No movement this week yet though but guess it will arrive anytime soon.

She is pretty much assembled as a roller but had a few problems to resolve. WIll post up the progress pics when I get chance.
 

MooGoCow

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59
Location
Midlands
Its been a long time coming but finally have some time to update on the build so here goes!

Started off with these 2nd hand bulkheads off E-Bay - crowns and pinions were in good shape so decided to rebuild and shim these rather than my older diffs off the 25. Stripped down and thoroughly cleaned out - I am pleased I did so, the third pic shows a chunk of steel inside the diff housing - that would have been fatal...



The bevel gears were 100% perfect so this was left over from a previous rebuild - couldn't have been run much afterwards as this would have caused damage for sure. Both diffs shimmed and rebuilt - worked out very nicely with very little play. Went for 10k wt front and 30k wt rear diff oil.

I had 2 sets of bearings from RC Bearings in the UK - bargain at £18/set - one sealed and one set unsealed. Every bearing will be replaced in the build - all external facing will be sealed.



Some parts started arriving from the Far East:

2 x JX CLS6322HV 21KG - High Voltage Servo's - Overkill for throttle but for £19 they are an absolute steal. They are so quick and powerful on 8.4v (and 6v!) - I was genuinely shocked. These are the first digital servo's I have ever seen yet alone fired up.



Steering servo mounted along with alloy steering upgrade and bearing upgrade over stock bushes:




Hit my first major issue when building up the front end. As I had upgraded to the quick access bulkhead, I only had one of the newer upper arm braces and the old stock 25 braces are much wider and do not fit. I could have purchased the new ones but stock was thin and they were orange... So I got the file out and trimmed down the original braces to fit. A touch of purple paint pen (not a perfect match but good enough) and it fitted fine. Second image below shows the correct brace, the old brace and then my filed down version.




Quick mock up of the chassis - she looked absolutely huge to me at this point!



Not sure if this was a result of using the new bulkhead but the upper arm rods had far too much play between the bumper points that hold them in place. I'm not totally happy with this mod but it will do for now. I drilled out the bumper plate and bolted in an M4 hex bolt to close the gap:



Managed to pick up some Innovative RC dogbones, an o-ring or two and they sit very nicely:



Now the next issue raised its head. The fuel tank guard screw holes are higher placed on the XL chassis. The fuel tank with its proud bottom end would not sit low enough to mount. Decided to cut away (drill and file) the guard to allow the proud section to drop through. This just about gave me enough clearance to mount the tank:



I'll try and get more up tomorrow!

Thanks for reading!!

1601076129203.png
 
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xtremsavage

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Jacksonville, Fl
Your using X style bulkheads right? If so, why aren't you usin the bumper mounts that fit through the shock tower and have a C-clip to hold them?
 

MooGoCow

Active Member
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59
Location
Midlands
Well spotted 👍🏻. I don't have the later version shock towers with the additional mounting hole for the clips. Actually I do have a couple of plastic ones but I really like the alu shock towers I have already. I have the new style bumper mounts in a bunch of stuff given to me by a very nice chap over on msuk but no way to mount them unless I switch out the towers.
 

xtremsavage

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1,986
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Jacksonville, Fl
Me personally, I'd switch back to stock plastic. I tried alum towers and one bad landing had it bend to almost a 45° angle towards the motor.
 

guinnessdublin

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Messages
411
Location
England
Yes agree alloy stuff does look nice but adds weight but plastic much more forgiving on landings, I guess it depends on how/high jumping your planning on!
 

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