FLUX FLUX FLUX should I

[ermartin]

So I'm thinking about getting a flux to go along with my nitro savage. I'm looking at getting a new one but wondering what others think. Also who has the best price. anything I should consider ?

 

[frddyj]

only other thing you should consider is this:

1. you need batteries & charger.
2. having a flux & nitro savage is awesome!
3. best price ive seen on it is www.tcscrawlers.com


If you end up getting one I'm looking to get a hi-rez scan of the extra set of flux stickers that come with it if you could help a brother out

 

[Larsenracing]

Well I'm in the process of building one. I say if your not going to switch radio's I would get one that's got the 2.4radio on it.

 

[ermartin]

I have the charger just need the batteries also yes I would only get the 2.4 model. Are there any major changes in the new model or is it just the 2.4 upgrade

 

[Pope]

Have you thought about a BL Buggy or truggy? They are tough as nails and it is fun to have two diffrent types of rc's? Not saying you shouldn't get a flux Just putting out other ideas too.

 

[Larsenracing]

It's got the 2.4 radio and its got the BP diff's installed and shimmed. Otherwise it's the same.

 

[ermartin]

Have you thought about a BL Buggy or truggy? They are tough as nails and it is fun to have two diffrent types of rc's? Not saying you shouldn't get a flux Just putting out other ideas too.

i have considered but i have 2 Losi Ten-T although Nitro that fill that bill for me. One of the biggest reason's I'm looking is because I have a couple of the 1/16 Brushless Traxxas and they are a blast. And i can run them in the neighborhood without disturbing the neighbors. I want something i can race around in the street and the greenbelt but can also take to the local track when I get the chance plus i would have the nitro to run it against as well at the track when i go with my buddies.

 

[ermartin]

OK so I bought it and its on the way. I have a few questions ill post them here and hope to get answers rather than starting a new thread.

1. whats a reasonable priced LiPo that will run it stock without any issue's. I don't want to go cheap and dangerous but i don't want to get too much battery either. what about Parallel configuration's

2. can a stock Flux do back flip's

3. whats the first part I am going to break ?

 

[Bankrupter]

1. whats a reasonable priced LiPo that will run it stock without any issue's. I don't want to go cheap and dangerous but i don't want to get too much battery either. what about Parallel configuration's

what do you see as reasonable ?

I have two hyperion 5S set ups for the 4 packs I paid 373.00 I see that as reasonable ...

2. can a stock Flux do back flip's

Yes with a good C rated pack it will. with a lesser pack you can up the start power with the castle link. (stock is low) Then it will all day...

3. whats the first part I am going to break ?

Talking about back flips out the gate, I vote diffs ...

 

[frddyj]

what about Parallel configuration's

Stock flux will only run the packs in series & its what you want. you don't wanna go lower than 4s & 2 x 4s packs wouldnt fit your stock truck.

2. can a stock Flux do back flip's

Like b/r said only if you get the castle link & adj start power

3. whats the first part I am going to break ?

i'm a bit curious about this myself. Mine was a diff but i dint have the bullet-proof diffs.

 

[Cwheeling]

That Flux is a blast! You will enjoy it! Just my thoughts on it!
1.SMC,SMC and you could try SMC! I run 2x 2s lipos and that truck has plenty of power!

2.I do backflips on 2x 2s, so yes!

3.Make sure the pinion is tight!(that was my first part!) If your asking if the flux can do backflips then I will say a BODY will be your first part! I'm on my
3rd so far!!!:bigsmilie:

 

[jssouthtx]

Go for it man.....a nitro savage compares to a flux like a firecracker to chunk of C4.

It's a bit pricey but its WORTH EVERY PENNY

 

[88gtanotchback]

firth thing i broke on mine is the carrier. where the turnbuckle attaches to it. the flux has so much power that sometimes cart wheels skid and bad landings happen until you adjust the trigger finger. I say get the integy rear tie rod eliminators and you should be good there.
as for lipos SMC have been good to me, but i still want to try 5s and SMC doesnt have matched spec 2s and 3s lipos so hyperions might happen someday.

 

[ermartin]

I'm confused. and embarrassed. So Ive been playing with these cars for the better part of 18 years but i took a 2 year break and just picked up the hobby again about 6months ago. I would really appreciate hand holding on picking out batteries every time i get to the sites I keep questioning which ones to pick. up until recently the cars I was running were all nitro . Once I understand the LiPo language ill be fine I picked up a venom charger when i recently purchased a 1/16 car in anticipation of going LiPo but after running it with dual NiHM batteries I didn't need LiPo for that particular application. Now with the new FLUX on the way I need to catch up. I keep hearing get "2's , 4"s, 5's" but it means nothing to me. I have read the stickies on electronics and still cant find clarity.

Do I need 1 battery or 2 and what specification should I get. and links would really help

Thanks for everyone's help

 

[lightning73]

the flux has a battery box on both sides of the truck...so you will need two batteries...the batteries have to have deans connectors, make sure you mention that when buying them, when you decide what batteries your gonna use 2s or 3s lipos, or whatever, you have to get the same two batteries, if you get two different batteries you will fry your esc. good luck with your new flux!...I'm jealous...lol

 

[frddyj]

I'm confused. and embarrassed.

Nope, don't be. We're all learning these new trucks together. Few of us got a little head start on you, but we'll all help each other out eace:

keep hearing get "2's , 4"s, 5's" but it means nothing to me. I have read the stickies on electronics and still cant find clarity. Do I need 1 battery or 2 and what specification should I get.

Let's clear up the "S"

a single LiPo sell is 3.7v. The "S" means how many LiPo cells are wired in "series" when you wire LiPo cells in series, it combines the voltage to give the flux the jam that you see.

when you shop for LiPo cells, savages will (most commonly) take 2 x 2s or 2 x 3s packs.

a "2s" pack has 2 LiPo cells wired together "in series" inside the pack (2 cells x 3.7v = 7.4v)

a "3s" packs has 3 sells wired "in series" (3 cells x 3.7v = 11.1v)

when you put 2 x 2s cells on a savage, the esc combines them "in series" so you'd be running 4s (4 cells & 3.7v = 14.8v)

2 x 3s packs = 6s or 6 cells "in series" or 22.2v

Very Important- I bought Hyperion Lipos for a few reasons, but they discharge at 35c constant. DO YOURSELF A FAVOUR and don't buy packs with less than 25c discharge, it could result in fire.

 

[ermartin]

Let's clear up the "S"

a single LiPo sell is 3.7v. The "S" means how many LiPo cells are wired in "series" when you wire LiPo cells in series, it combines the voltage to give the flux the jam that you see.

when you shop for LiPo cells, savages will (most commonly) take 2 x 2s or 2 x 3s packs.

a "2s" pack has 2 LiPo cells wired together "in series" inside the pack (2 cells x 3.7v = 7.4v)

a "3s" packs has 3 sells wired "in series" (3 cells x 3.7v = 11.1v)

when you put 2 x 2s cells on a savage, the esc combines them "in series" so you'd be running 4s (4 cells & 3.7v = 14.8v)

2 x 3s packs = 6s or 6 cells "in series" or 22.2v

Very Important- I bought Hyperion Lipos for a few reasons, but they discharge at 35c constant. DO YOURSELF A FAVOUR and don't buy packs with less than 25c discharge, it could result in fire.

ok so the C stands for cells what does the P stand for. I thought it was the number of 2s packs I should run but looking at the discriptions online it says things like 2s 2p 35c so its 2 cells with a discharge rate of 35 but whats the P ?

 

[Bankrupter]

P is cells in parallel to get a giving MAH

 

[frddyj]

ok so the C stands for cells what does the P stand for. I thought it was the number of 2s packs I should run but looking at the discriptions online it says things like 2s 2p 35c so its 2 cells with a discharge rate of 35 but whats the P ?

C doesnt equal cells. the "C" denotes current and lets you know how many amps the pack can be safely discharged at for a given period of time.

So, if you have a pack with 5000mah (or 5 Amps) capacity and C-Ratingof 25C, it can output 125Amps for whatever time period the mfr. states.
25c x 5A (5000Mah)= 125 Amps discharge

My packs are 35c x 6.5A (6500Mah) = 227.5 Amps discharge for one hour :jamout:

"S" = the number of cells wired "in series"

 

[ermartin]

C doesnt equal cells. the "C" denotes current and lets you know how many amps the pack can be safely discharged at for a given period of time.

So, if you have a pack with 5000mah (or 5 Amps) capacity and C-Ratingof 25C, it can output 125Amps for whatever time period the mfr. states.
25c x 5A (5000Mah)= 125 Amps discharge

My packs are 35c x 6.5A (6500Mah) = 227.5 Amps discharge for one hour :jamout:

"S" = the number of cells wired "in series"

Yea that was a TYPO think I'm clear now just need to pick a brand

 

[ermartin]

Any opinion on this one. I can pick it up for 80$...

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LW8842&P=E

 

[FluxPower]

1st post here, just want to help out a new future flux owner.
Here's are a couple thing to keep in mind before purchasing your lipos and how to take care of it. Those lipos you suggested are fine, if it's hardcase its even better. Might need to mod the battery box to have the wires to come out if the 12awg wire is not so flexible. And those lipos fit fine in the battery box tray which if I remember correctly was like 206x45x30mm, well (50mm) w/ some room from the battery lid. 4mm soldering to deans might be a bit hard if you have no experience soldering. Other than that just take your time soldering.

Stuff to look out for before buying lipos.
1.) Stock Flux 2200KV Motor needs at least 125amps of current draw, that's why HPI recommend 25C as the lowest ratings on lipos.
2.) The lowest LiPo spec to get is 5000mah @ 25C. Don't go anything below that because 5.0amp x 25C = 125amps of output. anything below 125amps will make your car studder during take offs.
3.) Do Not buy Cheap Lipos that are China made from ebay, unless you want a melted ESC. Some really cheap lipos that are reliable can be found here http://hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9931 These Zippy Flightmax and Turnigy are pretty good Bugdget Lipos.
4.) If you can, try to buy Hard Case Lipos to give them more protection when bashing. You won't go back to softcase once you have used the hard case version.
5.) Use Dean's/Traxxas/EC3 plugs since they have relatively low resistance, Do not use Tamiya plugs you will run into trouble.
-----------------
How to take care of your lipos.
1.) To make your lipos last longer life-time always charge them at 1C or below, even though your lipos is spec at max 5c but I wouldn't do it. If you don't know how much amp to charge at here is the math. 5000mah at 1C = 5000/1000 x 1 = 5amps, 8000mah 1C is 8.0amps, 10000mah 1C is 10amps etc...
2.) Always charge lipos in a isolated area, or lipos bags.
3.) Always charge them attended. Do not charge lipos while you are really far away. If a fire occur you might not know about is a bad thing.
4.) DO NOT OVERCHARGE Lipos, they will explode causing serious damage to nearby personnel or property damage. Do a youtube search on LiPo explosion and you will see what I mean.
5.)Do not short lipos, you will see a huge spark and permanentely damage those lipos. (I accidentally shorted one when I was cutting wires and it wasn't fun at all.)

As for your flux, the first broken part will be your pinion gear, Mine stripped badly after 5 runs. It will occasionally come loose by it self, Just use blue threadlocks and screw it in TIGHTLY, if it still comes out use Red TL's. I'm running Robison Racing pinions now and heard they are pretty tough. Novak's too. Just a heads up when you need to get new pinions.

Overall its a tough truck. I bash it hard bone stock trying to break the truck but I can't, I did some stupid thing like running full throttle got 10 ft air jumps and land dead on to a tree in the park and still survived with just a broken front bumper. If it were Traxxas I would be crying.

Hope these tips helps, and have fun.

 

[frddyj]

Yea that was a TYPO think I'm clear now just need to pick a brand

I'm having very good luck & satisfaction with hyperion.

 

[jssouthtx]

I'm having very good luck & satisfaction with hyperion.

X2 hyperion is the way to go charger-wise. Good luck with ur new flux. It's nothing like nitro :rock:

 

[gofastturnleft]

LiPo's opinions are gonna vary greatly. I have some maxamp 2s 6500 60c lipos that were about $150each. I also have some Zippy 3s 5000 25c that were like $50each. Personally I like the Zippy's better but a lot of that has to do with 3s over 2s. If I am driving on a track 3s is Way to much for ME. Best bet is to buy the best lipos that you feel comfortable dropping the coin on...and you will want more than one set for sure.

 

[ermartin]

So Man this thing is a beast. I couldn't keep it off its back running 2s 40c 5000 LiPo's... Lots of fun but I need to get it to a big park or field. What do u guys do with the receiver antenna. do u shorten the mast and put the excess in the box. I ripped a big hole in the protective coat and really don't want to risk it cutting

 

[frddyj]

So Man this thing is a beast. I couldn't keep it off its back running 2s 40c 5000 LiPo's... Lots of fun but I need to get it to a big park or field. What do u guys do with the receiver antenna. do u shorten the mast and put the excess in the box. I ripped a big hole in the protective coat and really don't want to risk it cutting

Lol man, glad your diggin' the flux :jamout:

if you have that long stock AM Antenna you can run the tube under the body.

if you have a FM 2.4Ghz Tx/Rx, the antenna is shorter & you can also just make a bend & put the body over it.

 

[jssouthtx]

Lol man, glad your diggin' the flux :jamout:

if you have that long stock AM Antenna you can

Start looking for a 2.4ghz setup. Best Mod I've done performance-wise. Of course that's mostly due to how badly the am setup performed.
Glad you like it man rockout

 

[ermartin]

Yes it is the 2.4 its much longer than the other 2.4's I have in my other cars. most are like 3inches this is almost as long as the AM/FM antenna

 

[Bankrupter]

Yes it is the 2.4 its much longer than the other 2.4's I have in my other cars. most are like 3inches this is almost as long as the AM/FM antenna

Its works on wave length. There is degrees of the wave IE: Full wave, 5/8ths wave, 1/2 wave and so on but they have to be a exact length to work correctly.

I'm posting this just to post. I was into ham raido b4 rc and these are exact antenna heights for 2.4

I have no idea what these T/X -RX are designed to work with but its not the purpose of my post. Its just info for hungry minds. I would say that with MPE (maximum permissible exposure) limits these don't work on less then 3/4 wave. The radios I played with were up to a kilowatt of power not even close to this stuff... So, don't cut on these numbers !

Full wave - 4 - 11/16in. or 0.119 M
7/8 wave - 4 - 1/8in. or 0.104 M
3/4 wave- 3 - 17/32in. or 0.089 M
5/8 wave - 2 - 15/16in. or 0.074 M
1/2 wave- 2 - 11/32in. or 0.059 M
3/8 wave- 1 - 25/32in. or 0.045 M
1/4 wave- 1 - 3/16in. or 0.030 M
1/8 wave- 0 - 19/32in. or 0.015 M