First time racing

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FastPete

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Hi,I'm going to the track for the first time any tips for racing my savage? I know its a truck but just want to have some fun.Its a savage x 4.6 stock with Big bore shocks,lowered,panther 40 series clay tires.Better steering servo.And tuned good.Never drove it lowered with these tires.Sure it will act much different.Thanks
 
Just have fun man. it sounds like it will be ok. After running on the clay your going to wish it had more steering. there's a few ways to get it but run it as is so you get a base to start off. Post up your thoughts and Ill show you a bunch of things that I did for the track. Not much is cheap but if you want to get competitive against revos you will need a few things different. See if you will even like the track first.... If your doing a no limit style race things I have to share are not that important.
 
Oh I will like the track.But I think I need a buggy for the track will see.Where I go they don't get many trucks mostly buggy and truggys.But like you said just have fun and get a feel for it.I got a Hi-tech servo don't remember the number it was $38.00 I believe.I hope its ok.I put 20W in the big bores and its cold here even in the indoor track so hopefully they will be ok for landing.I can play with the springs.I haven't done anything to the toe in or out or camber.I don't have a gauge yet,I have adj uppers all the way short and don't look like much - camber.I don't know with the stock tie rons if I can adjust much?Any sugguestions with the front n rear toe in or out just to eyeball it?Will it make a big differance?Thanks for all your help.I will get pics as soon as I get a dig camera.
 
Also this section is dead is there any savage racers out there? Would love to see some pics of yours set up for racing!
 
Not allot of racers with the savage. Its a 14+ pound truck. But it can win weekly! let me see where I have pics up on Ill give you a link to them in the forum to my truck. past
and present. Ok I'm only finding past Ill soot some tonight and post them here for you. I have 1 more pac to solder up and Ill clear a space and snap a few pics..
 
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Well just got back from the track was alot of fun.I got some learning-praticing to do.Much different driving on the track verses bashing.Had a hard time keeping it straight.Finished up the night hitting the wall and snapped the upper n lower controll arm LF.Big Bore shock is fine.Steering seems touchy.Think I will stay with the plastic controll arms till I get better at driving.

Pete
 
Stock.I thinking about the spetkrum whats your thoughts? What will I see from it?

Also never done anything with my diff oils.Will that make a big diff on clay track? And what would you guys suggest? Probably going to go get this stuff tomorrow.

And should I shim the diffs also?

And bearings in the steering?

Help

And thanks for all you input. I will post pics what I get my new camera.
 
definatly upgrade to the bearings. as far as spek, i have heard good and bad things about it. but the futaba 3pm is only good.

how many gallons are on the diffs? shimming wouldnt hurt, but it may not need it.
 
So you say the futaba is better? Tell me before I buy one.

One gallon.

Should I change the diff oil to a different weight? Will it help me at the track on hard clay?And what weight?

And my truck came with 17/47 gearing an I changes to a 18 bell.It always stood up and flipped on the road.But I'm thinking on the track now lowered with 40 ser tires I should put the 17 back in,as you will never hip top speed at the track.And it seems to me most of the guys doing good are spinning the tires and sliding their way around.I'm I thinking correct here?

Need some good tips here.And thanks!Will share all my results
 
I have had the specs with no issues. Both are nice but depends on what one you get. I have a DX3R it makes the 3pm look stupid but its in another class. Say the 3pk fasst is its rival. topped by the 4pk allday. Thats the one i want now... Just see if it has exponentials if it does get the 3pm. With it you can dial down the servos to your speed. Diff tuneing will also help out with the twitch. Try 10K front 5-7 rear. I don't think you will fine too many people drifting a savage unless the track is super dry. Blue grove it won't happen. You'll stick like the road with good tires. What 40's are you running?
 
What is exponentials?

Panthers with small numbs.Not sure of the name.

I see what your saying about the D3XR being better,but will it make a diff to me? Think I will ever use it to its full potential? Plus its about $100 more right?

Sorry for all the questions just trying to learn.I'm from the full size drag racing world.
 
yea no you don't need a 3R(320.00).. EXP dumbs down the servo so more input on the wheel ='s less output. Panthers should be very good on clay.
 
Hey Pete, Yes shim the diffs. You want about 30,000 in the front and about 10,000 in the rear. Think of it like a front wheel drive car, when your driving in a curve you don't want your inside front wheel unloading, you want it to pull through the corner. So the heavyer weight needs to go infront. What weight oil do you have in the shocks? Is your truck too stiff, common mistake. At rest your front should be level and the rear just above level. Don't cofuse ride height with dampening. Springs and oil work together but the springs control ride height and the oil controls dampening. Too heavy springs and not heavy enough oil will make a sloppy bouncy truck. It takes time to work out what will work for you, I like 35 wgt with black springs with one shock per wheel (not big bores) and I like my shocks inverted, it puts the weight of the shock body and oil lower next to the wheel. Yes steering bearings. The radio is your choice but anything is better than the stock. And all the set up in the world won't make up for practice and stick time, I'm living proof.

See ya at the track, Joey
 
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Thanks Joey.Have 10K in the shocks and its cold here also.I picked up a DX3S today.Hope that works out.Anyone have this on their savage? Any picks of it installed?

Installed RPM front controll arms today.Hope they hold up better.

Installed the bearings also seems smoother.

Pete
 
FastPete said:
Stock.I thinking about the spetkrum whats your thoughts? What will I see from it?

Also never done anything with my diff oils.Will that make a big diff on clay track? And what would you guys suggest? Probably going to go get this stuff tomorrow.

And should I shim the diffs also?

And bearings in the steering?

Help

And thanks for all you input. I will post pics what I get my new camera.
Click to expand...


I use the m11 with the spektrum pro module. makes a big difference you have tons of adj. on throtle and braking and stearing. take your diffs apart and clean them out very well and use diff oil. I run on a clay track in the winter I use 2k or 3k oil in the rear depending on the track and I run 7k in the front. I'm running panther python clays for tires as tires will make a difference also on what oil you use in the diffs mainly the front though. and yes deffinetly upgrade your stearing with the bearings. just go to the lhb store and get the size you need for it don't wast your money on the kit the bearings only cost $1 each around here and you need four.
 
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i just started racing my savage xl last week and it was a blast I've been looking 4 some race setups 2 i was just wounding if the savage suspension conversion set was worth buying?
 
IMPULSE said:
i just started racing my savage xl last week and it was a blast I've been looking 4 some race setups 2 i was just wounding if the savage suspension conversion set was worth buying?
Click to expand...
I don't have it done yet personaly but I got a chance to drive one at the track on monday. everything was the same as mine with the exception of the conversion kit. all I can say is night and day in handeling on the track. It is on my list of items to order lol
 
well guys going 2 race my XL friday night for the 2 time wish me luck. No conversion kit yet may be next week.
 
whipnet said:
Actually Bank meant to say "aluminum", not "alloy" 🙂 You actually do want alloy for racing, but titanium, not aluminum.

They take a lot of the slop out of your handling you get with plastic arms (RPM's are gummier).

Be ready to shell it out though, sweetness doesn't come cheap.
http://www.flextekrc.com/products/savage/arms-savage.shtml

*
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I was never going to say this but did you see the damage from your last opps? Ill pass on the TI too. Ill have arm let go b4 I do all that damage... I do think they are sweet!

savageman46 said:
Hey Pete, Yes shim the diffs. You want about 30,000 in the front and about 10,000 in the rear. Think of it like a front wheel drive car, when your driving in a curve you don't want your inside front wheel unloading, you want it to pull through the corner. So the heavier weight needs to go infront. What weight oil do you have in the shocks? Is your truck too stiff, common mistake. At rest your front should be level and the rear just above level. Don't cofuse ride height with dampening. Springs and oil work together but the springs control ride height and the oil controls dampening. Too heavy springs and not heavy enough oil will make a sloppy bouncy truck. It takes time to work out what will work for you, I like 35 wgt with black springs with one shock per wheel (not big bores) and I like my shocks inverted, it puts the weight of the shock body and oil lower next to the wheel. Yes steering bearings. The radio is your choice but anything is better than the stock. And all the set up in the world won't make up for practice and stick time, I'm living proof.

See ya at the track, Joey
Click to expand...
All VERY good info! I don't go as heavy on the front diff but still the same front heavier weight than rear. Nice post Joey + rep
 
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BANKRUPTER said:
I was never going to say this but did you see the damage from your last opps? Ill pass on the TI too. Ill have arm let go b4 I do all that damage... I do think they are sweet!
Click to expand...

HAHA.. you know I was just ribbing ya Bank! 🙂 And yeah... the damage was brutal, but not to or caused by the arms though. It was caused by the crummy FLM towers. 🙂

*
 
The busted bulk was not do to the tower. The tower failed first started the chain but the arm is what took that out. Had it all been plastic you would have bounced and kept going. Those arms transfer way to much impact to the other parts. I don't think a plastic arm could put that much energy into the tower to make it fail like it did. Ive sheared off shock bolts and not harmed the towers or bulks in 30 degree weather. But had my arm not gave in it would have been bulks and towers too. Have the vid and pics to show you the difference if you want to see it. I just don't like to step on nice stuff and the TI arms are top notch!!! Just too strong for the surrounding parts to be reliable. Even the RPM arms stress bulks more than they can take. More so up here in the cold. Lucky you don't have that factor to make things fail. I want to move to TX with you and sunky. Anyways If you run alloys on your arms you need to beable to not land on 1 wheel every time out or you will have issues. If you have pro control Flex tech FTW.
 
BANKRUPTER said:
The busted bulk was not do to the tower. The tower failed first started the chain but the arm is what took that out. Had it all been plastic you would have bounced and kept going. Those arms transfer way to much impact to the other parts. I don't think a plastic arm could put that much energy into the tower to make it fail like it did. Ive sheared off shock bolts and not harmed the towers or bulks in 30 degree weather. But had my arm not gave in it would have been bulks and towers too. Have the vid and pics to show you the difference if you want to see it. I just don't like to step on nice stuff and the TI arms are top notch!!! Just too strong for the surrounding parts to be reliable. Even the RPM arms stress bulks more than they can take. More so up here in the cold. Lucky you don't have that factor to make things fail. I want to move to TX with you and sunky. Anyways If you run alloys on your arms you need to beable to not land on 1 wheel every time out or you will have issues. If you have pro control Flex tech FTW.
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What you say is very true Bank, however the top of the FLM towers are only about 1/4" ...very thin.

I jumped a few times and Sunk and I took a look and they were both bent over hard on all 4 corners already. I decided to balls out until something broke. It only took another couple of more jumps to snap one off.

With no resistance the arms pulled out of the bulk. (You can test this by jumping your truck without any shocks.. JK) Something was going to break. With stock arms it would more than likely just break the arm. Something I did several times before going Ti.

Bulks are cheap too. I replaced it and have had no trouble out of the GH towers so far. Kids had a skateboard ramp out the other day and I got some testing in. Ready for the Texas bash. Wish you could make Bank.

*
 
Id die to bash with all of you down there. I agree bulks are cheap but a PITA to replace in the field. If the were as simple as a arm you know I would have flex tech for sure!

P.S I'm happy I dint try and twist you arm into selling me the towers... hind site! gotta love it
 
BANKRUPTER said:
Id die to bash with all of you down there. I agree bulks are cheap but a PITA to replace in the field. If the were as simple as a arm you know I would have flex tech for sure!

P.S I'm happy I dint try and twist you arm into selling me the towers... hind site! gotta love it
Click to expand...

You the man Bank.. wish we could have a few of guys down here for this. We'll have plenty of video though.

OP, you can have your thread back now... sorry about that.

Bankruper edit-----> I am sorry too but wont make another post to say it <--- abuse of power 🙁 I know
 
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Well i am very excited about my first race this weekend. Yesterday i went to the track for the first time to see how my Flux feels. I am new to Off Road and mind that yesterday was my second time running my new flux.
Few things i noticed
* Stock tires need to go to the garbage.
* High speed turns only flips your flux.
* Stock servo felt weak. The wheels could not turn on standstill. Even while running, the response was bad.

Overall, this is a badass truck. I love the power of flux.

This weekend, i will just try and see how its like to race so i am just changing my tires to bow tie for the time being and lowering the bigbore shocks a little.

Any good servo you guys can recommend? I need it in the long run.
 
Check your servo saver. If it is not tight enough the servo will not put it's power to the wheels. I run the stock SF-5 in my XL and even though it's not a powerhouse of a servo I find that it is strong enough for my needs. Ocassionally, I have had the servo saver back off on me, and had to readjust it. Get some wheels with a wider offset. I'm running the stock extended axles from the XL and Goliath tire/Tremor wheel combo. I think the wheel is offset some because of the lip on the outside plus the tires are wider than the terrapins by about another half inch. I noticed a HUGE improvement in my handling on- and off-road.
 
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