Engine apart !!!!

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REDSAVAGEMAN

REDSAVAGEMAN

Member
Messages
33
Location
Chicago Il
I will be replacing the crankshaft for the first time. I was wondering if anybody had any other ideas about what I could do while I have the engine completely apart. I would hate to have this thing all apart and not do something that could have been done very easily.

Also. My engine shoots out a lot of oil. I have went down to a 14% oil content in my nitro and it is still filthy! Any ideas? did I miss replcing a seal or something ?

Thanks guys
 
where does it leak from? Why are you just replacing the crank?

I would seal it up really good, and make sure your piston and sleeve are worth putting back in. Might have bearing problems if your leaking fuel from the front. Might be more cost effective just to get a new mill if your having all kinds of problems
 
Hey man I appreciate the feedback. The engine was fast as hell, but a little old. I leaked near the front so a bearing problem is probobly there. I was also thinking about using this as a excuse to get a better engine. I was running the .25, but now I want something faster. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Thanks man. I see that some come equiped with the roto start. Do you know if they are all compatible the roto start I currently have on my .25 ?
 
Thanks again jester. It looks like I am gonna go with the axial .28 - i was wondering if there were any compatibility issues such as engine mounts, roto start rather than the pull. I have heard nothing but good things about this engine and i am pumped to get one. I noticed that lsn points to the wrong side of the truck in some photos - Is this an issue. Any feedback on the axial . 28 would really help...............

Also, please let me know if I will need to buy anything else or if my flywheel, clutch bell and that sort of stuff is going to be easily swapped ( I currently have a HPI .25 )

Thanks again man.
 
Picture002.jpg
Mine was pretty much a drop in every thing hooked right up, pull start, clutch bell, mount, very easy lovin it i,m on my 5th gallon and its not slowing down at all.
 
Thanks for the feedback. I am torn between the Hpi 4.6 and the axial .28. From what I understand they are pretty similar. I might be using the engine exchange program for the 4.6. If there is a definate reason I should go with the axial let me know....Also I am currently running a 15 t clutch bell and a 49t spur. Any other suggestions ?
 
red, I'm running a hpi 4.6 in my #2 savage rite now and like I said an axial 28 rr spec 1 in my other savage. In my opinion the axial rips on the hpi. This is my first axial so my opinion is only worth the gallon of gas I ran through it. The hpi 4.6 I have had for a while, I just had to put piston and sleeve in it.
The hpi did not last long, I'm thinking I may of got it hot during break in. This time I had a temp gun and patience.
They are both strong motors, In my opinion the axial wins.
 
once again - thanks for the reply. What clutch/spur combo are you running ?

I think I am gonna go with the Axial. Are you using roto or pull start ?
 
red, I'm useing a roto start. the back plate should bolt rite on for ya.
I'm running a 52 / 15 combo with my axial. 3 shoe stock shoes and springs. you have got to see this thing run. check it out.
watch
 
savage_054.jpg
Nitro Star K4.6
spur 52 clutch bell 18 / yes its a tight fit
Size .25 4.6cc (.28 cubic inch)
Horsepower @ RPM 2.5 @ 29,000 2.9 @ 35,000
Maximum RPM 38,000 39,000
Heatsink Head Machined Aluminum Machined Aluminum
Case Black Heatsink Coating, Rear Exhaust Silver Aluminum, Rear Exhaust
Carburetor 7.5mm Composite 8.5mm Composite
Carb Adjustments 2 Needle, High and Low 3 Needle, Flush Settings
Connecting Rod Dual Bushing Dual Bushing
Construction ABC ABC
Sleeve 4 Port 8 Port
 
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4_6_piston_pic.jpg
Axial 28RR Spec 1
spur 52 / clutch bell 15
Size: .28 cubic inch/2.09cc
Horsepower @ 38000 4 /JJ unknown
Maximum RPM: 38,500
Bore: 18.25mm
Stroke: 17.5mm
Construction: ABC
Heat-sink Head: Green Anodized (optional Grey available)
Carburetor: 9.0mm Composite Slide Carburetor (includes optional 8.0 & 8.5mm venturi’s)
Carburetor Adjustments: 3 Needle, Flush Settings
Case: Black Aluminum, Rear Exhaust
Connecting Rod: Dual Bushing
Sleeve: 7 port
Starting system: Pullstarter
Recommended Glow Plug: Cold-5 Power Plug

Features
• Lower CG engine head with increased cooling capacity
• True ABC construction
• Standard button head (optional turbo head available)
• Pull start included
• Optional rotostart backplate available
• Optional bumpstart backplate available for racers (uses AX0090 32 bumpstart backplate)
 
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Crash
looks good..........I'll let you knowhow everything turns out over the weekend. Any tips on breakin in the axial ? I know that it is not too common, but I am also running 15/52. How do you load a large picture too ?
 
thanx doob,no dats a new pic, I just rebuilt the street savy, pics in gallery. The mill got rebuilt also.
It is fast and you can turn it at full tilt no problem, no flip. Only thing missing is a three speed trans. THe spur combo barely fits, its a little tight. it spins freely but not enough I anticapate a burned up spur in my future. Need a 17 tooth to give it a little more room. still keep n the top end speed.
 
hey red, As far as break n in the new mill,patience and follow the instructions that will come with it.
Also, I did not do this but I think it can be prevenative maintance before you start the motor.
Sealing the engine. Also while its apart you could check it for any metal shavings or forien debree from mfg process. like I said I skipped this process and everything went ok for me.
sealing engine is described in detail in this forum. try doing a search and you should find it . Ill try to find it for you too.
good luck bud.
where are you buying the new mill? Let us know how much $ there is always someone thinking about a new engine.
 
crash said:
thanx doob,no dats a new pic, I just rebuilt the street savy, pics in gallery. The mill got rebuilt also.
It is fast and you can turn it at full tilt no problem, no flip. Only thing missing is a three speed trans. THe spur combo barely fits, its a little tight. it spins freely but not enough I anticapate a burned up spur in my future. Need a 17 tooth to give it a little more room. still keep n the top end speed.
Click to expand...
Hey Crash,
I have an idea for youe gear tightness issue.
I have to telll you that I've never tried it brfore so you'll be the first to report on its application. I can't see any problem with it, though.

Take youe engine out out of the truck.
Find a flat and true surface like a table saw or marble counter top, thick glass table, ect. Prefferablly a surface that won't warp from pressure.
Now.. Take a sheet of 250 grit sand paper and tape it down to the surface your working on, with the tape on all four sides.

What were going to to do here is, remove some matterial off the bottom of the engine mount.
By doing this, you can effectively creating more adjustment room for the engine to seat with the CB and spur gear.
When sanding, you only want to take off very thin layers away at a time.

I would take a sharpie and ink out the base of the engine mount surface and use it as a guide to how much matterial is being removed.
Be sure to apply even pressure as you sand. You DON'T WANT to make the engine mount out of square and wobbley.

Each time you have remove the ink, re-install the engine and bolt up to see your progress. Still tight? RE-ink and repeat. Check again.

I don't tihink it will take very much if the engine is able to work now. Just get your gears to relax abit.
After doing this a couple of times, you'll have a better sense of how much matterial needs to be removed. If needed, re-ink the base and repeat.

If you feel its a long ways to get the surface down, use your best judgement on the next amount of matterial to take off.

---------------- AND KEEP IT SQUARE. -------------------

After your done, Be preppared to re-adjust the throttle linkage a little longer to compensate for your new engine mount height.

This mod shouldn't effect the usabillity of the other CB/spur combo's. And... it will lower your CG a tad. And that ain't bad.

If you try this, Good luck, my friend.
 
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crash.

As far as the new engine is concerned I found an awesome hooby shop south of Chicago. It is a little further than some of the ones in the area, but these guys really know they're stuff and they will match online prices ! ( no e-bay ) They are the only ones in the area to have street and dirt facilities. Check it out.

http://www.leisurehoursraceway.com/
 
red
great choice I used them before, theres a new hobbytown usa in orland park, check them for parts theyr a little closer to you. They arent as knowledgable as liesure hours though. Talk to them while your there about break n of your new motor caus if something goes wrong with it, they will be the ones to help you with warranty.
 
I forgot you lived in tinley for a second. My buddy bought a revo 3.3 from hobbytown ( Garbage, but rediculously fast & quiet ) i like the set up both shops have. You can see all of the trucks side by side. My fav is still leisure hours. Scott really knows his sh$t. I hope all goes well this weekend. I totally ripped my sav apart yesterday TOTALLY !!!! I am gonna clean it up and get it back together fri or sat. Wish me luck !
 
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