Dodgedude's Pulling Build

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dodgedude

Member
Messages
33
I started the design / fab process in Sept 2010, I hand built my tvp's, engine plate, servo mounts and mid tank setup. Working on handcrafting my skid plate.
Parts I've used so far.
GH Steering Assembly, RPM Upper arms, HPI BP diffs, HPI XL running gear. 3spd Tranny (for the low first gear), CEN Batt Box, Mugen fuel tank, Integy HD rear hub carriers, Integy HD Hubs and Knuckles, HPI 24mm Hex adapter, Proline Desperado Beadlocks, Hostile Nightmare MX Tires, Hostile Molded Zero growth Foams, Hitec 7955TG for steering. IRC LST2 Mounts, LST2 Shocks, Raven Dual rate Springs.

The Power Plant.
ERCM ExtremeX2 modded LRP Zr30 Spec2, ERCM Endbleed pipe. Going to use a motosaver filter and XL Manifold (slightly modified)

Parts on Order / Waiting to be used
BashCat RC Braces, ERCM Equipment, Proline F650 Body, Thunder tiger turn buckles, 85067 to be used for steering rods. Hitec 5985MG for T/B, 8ft nylon Rod for A Roll cage (will fit under F650 shell)

Parts that break will be replaced with something else. lol

I know I'm forgetting stuff.
So far the truck is around 21Lb's. The No Limit RC Rules state that the Unlimited Pulling class must be a Minimum of 21.1Lbs.
Here are some pics of the build, and I will keep it updated as I go:MPSred:

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cuts come out good for only having hand tools. not easy to do. i notice in the 6th pic from the angle of the drive shaft that you didnt cut the tranny/mill into the tvps lcg; wouldnt lcg work better on a puller? blue paint looks cool against the snow.
 
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thanks guys, The frame has taken me around 80 - 100Hrs to do, Including the engine plate. And its powder coated. The springs are too. Anndizing would show too many battle scars. LOL.
Are there any Comp Pullers around this forum? I have some Q's regarding regulations and Specs.
 
awesome build! cant wait to see this in action!

Maybe alloy arms to help add a little more weight??? also isnt rigidity in a pulling truck a good thing? and your Bashcat braces will help your bulks? Maybe some alloy bulks too? Obviosuly weight is a good thing in a pulling contest right?

I can appreciate the hard work you put into the tvps! Look great!
 
@ Maximus, There are no pulls around me either, The idea was started as a bet between me and co-workers when I showed them a few RC's pulling Cars. Now its gone full tilt and I'm planning on hitting no limit in 2012.

@ Scott, Its powder coating, gives it a deeper color 😉 . If you want to paint that color Indy silver and Candy blue come really close. Very close.

Thnx J1A1H, I'm a huge fan of your build and I'm waiting to see what CVD's / dogbones hold up to your monster. Those will be what I end up using. lol. I thought about alum rims, do you know the weight of yours? These desperados are quite heavy. The tire/foam/rim combo is 590Grams per corner. 2.36Kg for the truck.

Alloy bulks I did not think of. Maybe a little later when I have some more "build cash"

I'm going to start with 13/52 gearing. Its as low as I can go with readily available clutch/spur's. If I need to mod a bigger spur to work I will. Since I run all my spur's locked anyways I don't need the slipper assembly. lol
 
ill let you know how they hold up... Should do absolutley fine as they are the same diameter as the SHD shafts.

Plenty of guys have been running extended LST2 chassis on 8-12s and the shafts have no problem holding up....

Yep my desperados and bowties are quite heavy... but with big power builds, they should hopefully add stability at high speed.

Keeping a close eye on this build
 
b/r had a link to a flicker account that had a bunch of pics but there arent build threads so to speak on here. would be great to see more of the puller builds come together.

I did ? I don't remember or I would have posted it...

___________________________________________

Whats the tower support do ? Is that for a reason to to reduce sag?
 
Not so much to reduce sag. I've heard from others with the LST setup that over time the towers tend to droop or bend inwards, or opposite whichever side the shocks are mounted on.

One member on SC had this idea before me, he bulked them up a little different using hellfire parts and claims the setupd keeps his shock bolts from bending as much. But his setup is attatched to the shock bolts and then down to the bulk itself. WIth my tank and batt box I don't have the room for that. And the truck isnt going to get "Bashed" so much so I was able to go a little lighter. Its all hearsay, but I had time and parts and nothing else to do. lol
 
I did ? I don't remember or I would have posted it...

you posted a link to in the w/f thread i posted here.


@ Dodge - i can't get enough of that tire and rim combo. can you say the approximatel cost of the set up and the weight of all 4? Also, it looks like you haven't run them yet, but i'd like to hear your feedback if you think theyd work fine in a regular basher savage in addition to the puller.
 
Purenitro turned me on to that combo, as soon as I saw it I was hooked, even picket up a part time job with a friend for a weekend to get them not now but right now! lol. There is absolutly no bounce with these tires. I can stand on them and they barely compress at all, its a very hard tire, and the hostile tires come in hard and extra hard, so I can only imagine what Extra Hard tires would be like. Getting these over the beadlock rims was quite the excersize and My hands needed breaks between every tire.

The Proline Desperado beadlocks (rears), Hostile 0 growth foams (blue stiffness) and hostile nightmare MX tires, are 590grams per corner. 2.36Kg or 5.2Lb's for the whole truck. I used the rear rims/tires all around, you could try using the fronts all around or w/e and save some weight.

Tires, Foams, 24mm Hex's $229.98 Shipped, http://shopping.netsuite.com/c.885035/site/index.html

Proline Desperado's $88.98 shipped from towerhobbies.

I found the rims were a few bucks cheaper at tower than anywhere else. But I also have an account so my shipping is cheaper at times too.
 
Purenitro turned me on to that combo, as soon as I saw it I was hooked, even picket up a part time job with a friend for a weekend to get them not now but right now! lol. There is absolutly no bounce with these tires. I can stand on them and they barely compress at all, its a very hard tire, and the hostile tires come in hard and extra hard, so I can only imagine what Extra Hard tires would be like. Getting these over the beadlock rims was quite the excersize and My hands needed breaks between every tire.

The Proline Desperado beadlocks (rears), Hostile 0 growth foams (blue stiffness) and hostile nightmare MX tires, are 590grams per corner. 2.36Kg or 5.2Lb's for the whole truck. I used the rear rims/tires all around, you could try using the fronts all around or w/e and save some weight.

Tires, Foams, 24mm Hex's $229.98 Shipped, http://shopping.netsuite.com/c.885035/site/index.html

Proline Desperado's $88.98 shipped from towerhobbies.

I found the rims were a few bucks cheaper at tower than anywhere else. But I also have an account so my shipping is cheaper at times too.


wow, that is an investment right there. non-the-less, they look like theyre gonna give this truck the bite that it needs & they look sweet. post up some video when you get 'er up and running.
 
No its XL length, XL rear bone and X front bone. My next build will utilize two XL rear bones. My only regret with this truck so far is not extending the front end. Had I seen where it was going when I started building it, I would have extended the front end and left the rear stock X length.
 
No its XL length, XL rear bone and X front bone. My next build will utilize two XL rear bones. My only regret with this truck so far is not extending the front end. Had I seen where it was going when I started building it, I would have extended the front end and left the rear stock X length.

I'm shocked Robin didnt bring up his stainless TVPs he makes. He stretched front and rear ... Sick for a puller !
 
:waiting: uhmmmmm...... all cool but..... where is my set of these TVPs?? lol



seriously.....WOW! frickin awesome work!! 😀Jjam:
 
Oh I know about his TVP's, And I'll get my set one day 😀 I started these before he started his. I have not seen any drawings but I know some insider info and can't wait to see the final product. I have a sneaky suspision I even know the member who is going to test them out. lol

SwampDawg, I will gladly build you a set, I charge $10.00/hr and your looking at about 3 months waiting period. 😉 lol. Thx for the compliment.

I have next week off so I hope to get the front Bullbar support and rear hitch sorted and made up. As well as the central skid plate.
 
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Bic Lighter under truck for Clearence Reference 😀
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There she is guys. Ready for a body, engine and the snow to stop :evil:
Under a snowfall warning today. And by the looks of the farmers almanac we have another month+ of snow
 
So here is my painting story.
The first time I painted a body, I had it unwrapped, trimmed, painted

and mounted in about an hour.
This body took about 14 hours over 2 days. To all those out there with

insane painting skillz, I hand you my respect 😀 .

I first started by trimming up the excess lexan from the fenders and

panels. I left some excess to work with later but took most of it away

for easier handling.Then I washed the body in the bathtub. I simply

dribbled a fair amount of SunLight dish soap into the body, and used

the shower head to rinse, and a clean cloth to rub. This took about 5

minutes.

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I put on rubber gloves to prevent any oil's or contaminants from

getting on the inside lexan, Quickly layed some clean paper towel down

on my work bench and went to work. I coated the inside with 4 layers

of Parma Fasmask, I rigged up a little heater to blow on the body

between coats, to speed up the drying process. This Proline Desert Rat

body has a lot of little nooks and cranny's, and I was un-prepared for

getting into the areas. I did the best I could, but my paitence ran

thin. I ended up with some un-cured fasmask in some areas but I will

get to that later.

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I had previously drawn out my rough design, using Metallic Black, Indy

Silver and Candy Blue. The Silver really accents the blue and nearly

perfectly matches the powder coating on the frame. Once all the

fasmask was cured, I used a small hobby knife, with a very small flat

edge blade to start removing the trim areas. This is when I realised I

was in trouble. Using spray cans, once I spray the trim it is going to

be very hard to see the other lines of the design.

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Luckily, I followed the body contours in most areas so I made do. An

Air gun would have been very nice :roll:
I layed on about 8 coats of Black around all the trim areas. Some

(like around the rear fin) were very hard to get to. And this is where

the rushed, uncured fasmask got the better of me. I did the best I

could to remove the fasmask cleanly, but even then I couldn't angle

the spray can to fully get into the crevaces. Paitence again started

to run thin, so I settled with what I had, rather than forcing it and

botching the entire job.

(was too excited to take picture at this point. Was about 2 in the

AM)

I left the heater on between coats, and the light coats dried in ten

to fifteen minutes making it fairly quick. I hate the waiting game.I

then but out and pealed away the Silver areas. This is where my rookie

skills with fasmask and painting show through. The areas where I was

too thin, or too fast with the parma came up and were hard to cut. I

did my best to rectify this but there is some bleed through in some

areas.

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6 coats of silver paint, again with 15minutes between each coat. Then

removing the rest of the fasmask, minus the window areas. 8 very light

coats of Candy Blue got me the dark, transperant color I was looking

for. I practiced on multiple cut up bottles in the previous weeks, so

get a good feel for just how dark the blue needed to be, to match the

TVP's. With 5 coats of Indy Silver backing, the blue really began to

POP 😀 (When painting complex bodies, flip it over between coats to

help you get into all the little areas, don't worry if you miss a spot

on your first pass, there are many passes left to go 😉 )

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I backed the entire paint job with 3 thick coats of Rustolem Latex

Paint. It dries very flexibly and I think it will hold up fine to

light bashing. This truck shouldnt roll over....... :roll: Then I

rememberd to mark the body holes, I used a yellow paint marker, dabbed

the top of the body posts, and very carefully set the body on straight

and even.Using the smalles drill bit I had, I dilled a hole from the

inside. The drill bit will pull the material towards the drill, so for

best results, drill from the inside 😉 working up to a 5/16th bit with

is slightly larger than the body posts, for easy install but a snug

fit.

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Finally, I removed the window masking area, wiped the inside of the

body with a paper towel, and vacated the garage. Its too dirty for

what I did next. When you remove the overcoat protection, the body

changes. Its just....better :mr.green:

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I hope you all enjoy! I know I do! This was my first real attempt at

painting a body, Read as many threads as you can, use the knowledge

from 10 or 12 guys who have done it, then get to work. Be Paitent,

Walk away if you half to (I did) and most importantly, just keep

thinking of the end result.
 
looks absolutely awesome! Love the colour scheme... ties in very very well!!!
 
Thx Guys! I don't think it will ever be done.
I made a new, better looking and stronger Bull Bar mount from 1/2" nylon rod. Install's in 5 seconds with no screws, and is solid enough to use as a handle 😀

Also, been playing with the idea of having a servo lift the body like a 1:1 MT. Just a thought in my head for a rainy day project. lol.
 

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