Custom aluminum Savage X steering problem!!!

[Teddibruskii]

Hey guys,
I have a Savage X 4.6 with a bunch of aluminum parts. Integy lower arms, upper suspension parts, shock towers, steering turnbuckles, and big bore integy reservoir shocks with full length chrome springs. The issue I seem to be having is the steering rods that hook up to the front knuckles, seem to interfere with the springs of the front shock near the turnbuckle.
I tried shaving excess material off the plastic front knuckles but that only slightly helped the turning radius, I still seem to have an interference problem. Not sure if I need to custom build some brackets that move the rods back farther on the knuckle to clear the shock or possibly run 1 less shock per side till I can this truck running again. Any help or insight is appreciated. Don't really want to order aluminum knuckles if they aren't going to fix the issue. (Same size and mount point as the stock ones)

Thanks in advance!
Nitro for life!

 

[J.LO's SAVAGE X]

the only thing that I can think of is maybe go to the newer factory big bore shock set up. one shock per corner

 

[Jam Racing 1]

Yup, going to 1 shock per wheel is about the only thing I can see to do.....

 

[J.LO's SAVAGE X]

the big bore shock set up will also allow you to run a savage xl pipe and header, which is a much better performance pipe than most, my lrp,, f4.6,, and even my picco .28 boost loved that pipe header combo the best, definitely noticed a power gain

 

[Upbasher]

Take the tie rods off, put them in a vice, and VERY SLIGHTLY bend them in a tiny bit of a banana shape. Then reinstall with the rod ends farther out on the ends to compensate for the shorter distance

 

[bifftit]

slide a small piece of tubing between the shock end and the bottom cap to get the bottom cap up a bit.
its what i had to do with shocks on one of my recent builds

 

[Teddibruskii]

Thanks for the Input guys!
Gonna try making an adapter that bolts to the knuckle and moves the tie rod end back approx. .25 inch.
Also will try one shock per corner and see if that works as well.
I just want to get this one running and driving so I can sell it and put the money towards my actual trucks.
Cheers!

 

[bifftit]

you are aware. the tie rod is supposed to screw to the bottom of the axle carrier and not the top. when they are on the top the, as the suspensions move, the the wheels will not keep a vertical alignment AND you will eliminate your clearance issue.

 

[Teddibruskii]

you are aware. the tie rod is supposed to screw to the bottom of the axle carrier and not the top. when they are on the top the, as the suspensions move, the the wheels will not keep a vertical alignment AND you will eliminate your clearance issue.

It wont even move if I have them screwed in the bottom (see picture 3), they are hitting the springs before they can even start to turn in.

 

[bifftit]

Something sure don't seem right. I use dual big-bore shock setups and tie-rods the size of savage upper suspension arms on all 3 of my savages and my clearance issues arent that bad. My tie-rods will rub the bottom spring retainer just a little bit

 

[bifftit]

If you have a set of savage x carriers rather than the .21/25 carriers you might try those.
I think they have a little wider spread in the arms that the tie-rods mount to

 

[Teddibruskii]

If you have a set of savage x carriers rather than the .21/25 carriers you might try those.
I think they have a little wider spread in the arms that the tie-rods mount to

Ill look into swapping to Savage X carriers, thanks! Do you happen to have any pics of your setups maybe I can try to figure out why mine is all wack.
Much appreciated!

 

[Jam Racing 1]

you can see in these pics how it is supposed to be. and I went to 1 shock per wheel when I put on the new alloy bigbores and I don't have any clearance issues with hitting or binding.....

 

[bifftit]

These on a truck i have on epig, but its setup the same as my personal savages except there are small shocks on this one rather than big bores