Hello, The oil coming out of your exhaust during break-in is normal... It's caused by a rich carb setting from the factory. This is what you want in the first 4-5 tanks .An over-rich carb setting. This confirms that your getting plenty of needed lubrication for the sleeve to seat with the piston durring your break-in. If it gets flooded, pull the plug and use the roto start with the truck on it's side. This will clear out any access fuel from the crank case. Replace the plug and try staring it up again. I'm not positive but, I would be pretty sure that your picco 28 is a shade or two above the average 28 mill (engine). That being said, your motor is likely a higher proformance engine than say, an RTR motor. This usually indicates a tighter mill (harder to turn over) and more prone to locking at TDC (top dead center) when the engine stops from a warmed up condition. This is also normal, and can be avoided by simply rotating the flywheel until you reach BDC (bottom dead center) BEFORE THE ENGINE COOLS. This prevents the piston from getting stuck in the pinch zone as the engine cools from a heat cycle. This should be done every time you let the engine cool down during break-in. If it gets stuck, loosen the plug, get out a heatgun and warm up the heatsink till it's at 180 degrees+ and turn the flywheel over by using the oposite end of a wooden spoon till you reach BDC. You can see the piston through the plug hole to verify it's position. Use gloves to hold the truck and be careful. If it's really stuck, your f*$ked.... Just kidding.lol. You'll have to pull the motor out of the truck and turn the motor over gently at the flywheel with some channel lock pliers. This in most cases is enough to get the piston loose. If not, get the crank case plate open behide your roto start backplate and move the connecting rod to the left or right with the other end of a wooden spoon to break it loose from TDC. Yes, I know, A real pain in the a$$..... This is why we learn to set the piston to BDC at the cool down stage. There's also the benifit of preserving the "pinch"(tightness at TDC) by keeping the piston at BDC. So...REMEMBER TO ALWAYS SET THE PISTON AT BDC...And it doesn't hurt abit to spray some nitro cleaner on all the disassembled metal parts, including the inside the crank case to get any oil sluge and/or loose metal fragments removed. Dry all the loose parts with a clean paper towel leaving no paper fragments, and reassemble the crank case assembly. Install the engine in the truck. Retighten the plug, and start her up. You will be going through two or three plugs during this breakin process on an average. It's to be expected. New engines have metal particals that cling to the plugs filiment and can foul the plug, shortenning it's life durring the break-in process. Having a few plugs on hand is advised. Now....Something to think about....These TIGHTER MILLS NEED MORE BREAK-IN TIME than 3-5 tanks. Try 7-10 at minimum. 10-15 tanks is smart in my opinion. That's right, I said 10-15. When breaking in after say the 7th tank, stay away from wide open throttling. Just do short blips on the throttle to condition the mill. It's OK to accelerate to almost top end say, by the 12th tank or so but, back off the throttle as soon as you get there. And by the way... I should also say that "heat cycling" is very important and should be done in the first 5 tanks or so. I use a temp gauge to confirm at least a 225 degree heat cycle per cool down. Getting this temp when the carb is still rich is easier if you make a foil cylinder to insulate the heatsink from air passing through it. YOU MAY NEED TO LEAN THE CARB ABIT TO GET THIS TEMP DEPENDING ON THE MOTOR. But don't peak tune until your thur with your break-in. The more heat cycle cool downs you can achieve, the better for your motors lifespan down the road. During the heat cycling process, don't let the tanks run dry. Kill the engine at 225 degrees F. by pinching the fuel line at the carb. Also, never let the tanks get below a 16th of a tank on your cycles. This helps prevent any engine lean out. Also, you can check out a thread known as: "sts 30 rev. 2" found in the "Engines/Pipes/ect" section of this forum. Supertib's comments are priceless. I know these instructions seem pretty anal,... and they are. If you want a better break-in than factory recommendations, then try these guidelines. By doing this type of break-in process, you wil be conditioning your motor to run smother, pull stronger, and last alot longer. Be patient... Don't rush it....And your engine will be a bad-a$$. -Good Luck-
