Breaking in New Engine

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
W

Want to run?

Member
Messages
7
Hey everyone its been a while but heres the deal. This past Christmas i got the ofna picco .28 as a gift for my savage 25. Just yesterday i finally put in the new engine and i did the normal break in process. Ran it for 2 tanks and for the 3rd tank the savage does not want to start. I installed the roto back plate instead of pull start and my final break in tank the roto start wont even turn its like it gets suck. The instructions that came with the engine said that it has to run ritch for the break in stage but i notice there is a lot of oil coming out from the exhuast. I don't know what to do and i really want to rip up this new engine and see what the truck can do but it doesn't want to start. Someone help
 
you have to run the engines really rich whilst running in.

this has various side effect such as alot of oil from the exhaust and usually burns out glow plugs quickly.

take the plug out and check it. could well be blown
 
Hello, The oil coming out of your exhaust during break-in is normal... It's caused by a rich carb setting from the factory. This is what you want in the first 4-5 tanks .An over-rich carb setting. This confirms that your getting plenty of needed lubrication for the sleeve to seat with the piston durring your break-in. If it gets flooded, pull the plug and use the roto start with the truck on it's side. This will clear out any access fuel from the crank case. Replace the plug and try staring it up again. I'm not positive but, I would be pretty sure that your picco 28 is a shade or two above the average 28 mill (engine). That being said, your motor is likely a higher proformance engine than say, an RTR motor. This usually indicates a tighter mill (harder to turn over) and more prone to locking at TDC (top dead center) when the engine stops from a warmed up condition. This is also normal, and can be avoided by simply rotating the flywheel until you reach BDC (bottom dead center) BEFORE THE ENGINE COOLS. This prevents the piston from getting stuck in the pinch zone as the engine cools from a heat cycle. This should be done every time you let the engine cool down during break-in. If it gets stuck, loosen the plug, get out a heatgun and warm up the heatsink till it's at 180 degrees+ and turn the flywheel over by using the oposite end of a wooden spoon till you reach BDC. You can see the piston through the plug hole to verify it's position. Use gloves to hold the truck and be careful. If it's really stuck, your f*$ked.... Just kidding.lol. You'll have to pull the motor out of the truck and turn the motor over gently at the flywheel with some channel lock pliers. This in most cases is enough to get the piston loose. If not, get the crank case plate open behide your roto start backplate and move the connecting rod to the left or right with the other end of a wooden spoon to break it loose from TDC. Yes, I know, A real pain in the a$$..... This is why we learn to set the piston to BDC at the cool down stage. There's also the benifit of preserving the "pinch"(tightness at TDC) by keeping the piston at BDC. So...REMEMBER TO ALWAYS SET THE PISTON AT BDC...And it doesn't hurt abit to spray some nitro cleaner on all the disassembled metal parts, including the inside the crank case to get any oil sluge and/or loose metal fragments removed. Dry all the loose parts with a clean paper towel leaving no paper fragments, and reassemble the crank case assembly. Install the engine in the truck. Retighten the plug, and start her up. You will be going through two or three plugs during this breakin process on an average. It's to be expected. New engines have metal particals that cling to the plugs filiment and can foul the plug, shortenning it's life durring the break-in process. Having a few plugs on hand is advised. Now....Something to think about....These TIGHTER MILLS NEED MORE BREAK-IN TIME than 3-5 tanks. Try 7-10 at minimum. 10-15 tanks is smart in my opinion. That's right, I said 10-15. When breaking in after say the 7th tank, stay away from wide open throttling. Just do short blips on the throttle to condition the mill. It's OK to accelerate to almost top end say, by the 12th tank or so but, back off the throttle as soon as you get there. And by the way... I should also say that "heat cycling" is very important and should be done in the first 5 tanks or so. I use a temp gauge to confirm at least a 225 degree heat cycle per cool down. Getting this temp when the carb is still rich is easier if you make a foil cylinder to insulate the heatsink from air passing through it. YOU MAY NEED TO LEAN THE CARB ABIT TO GET THIS TEMP DEPENDING ON THE MOTOR. But don't peak tune until your thur with your break-in. The more heat cycle cool downs you can achieve, the better for your motors lifespan down the road. During the heat cycling process, don't let the tanks run dry. Kill the engine at 225 degrees F. by pinching the fuel line at the carb. Also, never let the tanks get below a 16th of a tank on your cycles. This helps prevent any engine lean out. Also, you can check out a thread known as: "sts 30 rev. 2" found in the "Engines/Pipes/ect" section of this forum. Supertib's comments are priceless. I know these instructions seem pretty anal,... and they are. If you want a better break-in than factory recommendations, then try these guidelines. By doing this type of break-in process, you wil be conditioning your motor to run smother, pull stronger, and last alot longer. Be patient... Don't rush it....And your engine will be a bad-a$$. -Good Luck-
 
Last edited by a moderator:
yeah what he said. Also because your running it rich, it has a tendency to become flooded. This will make turning it over harder almost impossible because of the tighter pinch. Spray glow plug area with nitro cleaner while truck is on its side to remove any unwanted dirt. then remove plug. While the truck is still on its side roto start it and watch fuel spray out of the hole. do this till no more fuel comes out and reinstall glow plug. (MAKE SPECIAL CARE TO PUT YOUR GLOW PLUG RING BACK ON THE SAME WAY) Cuz if you don't the ring that is on the glow plug side, will have a dent in it from the glow plug and the side that fits on the head will be flat. You want to keep this marriage of the two together. You might have to go through this process a few times but it will pay off. Just remember be calm and breath.. hope this helps
 
savagecre said:
yeah what he said. Also because your running it rich, it has a tendency to become flooded. This will make turning it over harder almost impossible because of the tighter pinch. Spray glow plug area with nitro cleaner while truck is on its side to remove any unwanted dirt. then remove plug. While the truck is still on its side roto start it and watch fuel spray out of the hole. do this till no more fuel comes out and reinstall glow plug. (MAKE SPECIAL CARE TO PUT YOUR GLOW PLUG RING BACK ON THE SAME WAY) Cuz if you don't the ring that is on the glow plug side, will have a dent in it from the glow plug and the side that fits on the head will be flat. You want to keep this marriage of the two together. You might have to go through this process a few times but it will pay off. Just remember be calm and breath.. hope this helps
Click to expand...
Dude, It's not the tighter pinch that makes it harder to turn over, it's the flooded crank case creating back presure on the down stroke! If there's accessive fuel in the crank case, the piston will begin to compress but lock on a secondary short stroke. It won't compress a liquid. this why you clear the mill of accessive fuel (flooding).
 
Dude thats what I said. It becomes flooded ( first thing in the sentence ) then because of the tighter pinch if you think about it will make the fuel in the chamber even harder to move. ( you have lots of fuel in the crank yes ( Flooded) then the tight pinch on the top or Compression stroke. so.................................................
 
Dude, I disagree on the logic, bro. Yes, if it floods, then pull the plug and do the clear it out trip but, if you think about it, the fuel and air mixture is arriving at the top of the cylinder first and if unburned, will begin to condense back to a liquid and seep down past the piston, filling the crank case area. A Loose pinch or a tight pinch, There's no place for this access fuel, that's now a liquid, to ascape to. Thereby, creating a lockup condition on the (exhaust) down stroke.
I'm saying that the "pinch" has really nothing to do with a flooding issue. Most of the fuel that gets purged out when the plug is removed is forced up past the piston again so it can exit. Lockup occures when the piston is approaching BDC. Not TDC., Yes?....
 
Last edited by a moderator:
calm down guys. misinterpretations cause problems. it is ok to disagree but don't let it get out of hand please. STAFF
 
Thank you. you guys do help out the forum by printing info that helps new and old a like and we do really appreciate all your input. That is a sincere thank you.
 
And thank you megabyteme. That really means alot coming from you. And I saw your computer pic. cooooooool.... I don't know if your in the market for another computer but, I do have a custom build still in the box that a client of mine couldn't afford at the last minute. It's an SLI flagship system, for sale. It does push ups while playing the game "FEAR". If your interrested, PM me and I'll share the details on the it's hareware and asking price. Thanks again, megabyteme. -Peace out
 
Dude, you don't have to keep your thoughts to yourself.................You just have to get permission from me before you express them...........lol....lol......Just kiddinnnnnnng. Catch ya on the flip, zip.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Members online

Total: 248 (members: 1, guests: 247)
Back
Top