2 Melted Spurs and????

[NUT-Z]

I am new to this site, me and a buddy purchased 2 savage X's about a week ago. They seem to be awesome machines, they both have about 10-12 tanks of fuel through them. But 2 days ago we where out running them around the house and I melted the inside of the spur gear where the friction material goes and then 25-30min later his did the exact same thing. We both replaced them and his is running fine. Mine however on ran for 30min and it has done the exact same thing of melting the spur gear. Any idea's on what could be wrong?? When we replaced them we tightened the nuts down all the way on the slipper, but I still manage to burn it up. Also my truck seems not to roll as free as it use to, without the truck even running it seems to have "catches" when you push it on the ground trying to free wheel. Any info advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Pineapple]

I would try going from the stock X dual slipper to the single slipper from a regular Savage.
I have never had a problem with the dual one though-I have heard of improper mesh with the C/B making spur melt in that area though.
Check your mesh and engine plate for cracks.

 

[NUT-Z]

I would try going from the stock X dual slipper to the single slipper from a regular Savage.
I have never had a problem with the dual one though-I have heard of improper mesh with the C/B making spur melt in that area though.
Check your mesh and engine plate for cracks.

For some reason it doesn't have the dual slipper its just the single. The gears them self are fine its just the clutch material on the inside that gets tore up for some reason. Should the truck roll freely on the ground if I push it? Mine seems to drag or catch on something when I try to push it?

 

[NUT-Z]

Mine for some reason has the single slipper already. I don't think its the gear mesh because its not melting the gear its melting the actual clutch material inside the spur gear. Should the truck roll freely if I put it on the ground and try to push it, mine seems to drag and has a "catch to it"??

 

[backwoodboys11]

you might want to check you front and rear diffs. sounds like busted gears to me

 

[MotoPsycho]

The X comes with a single slipper.

Pull the top of the tranny off, and inspect gears and bearings. pull the center gearset out of it and try to "freewheel the truck on the ground again. If it rolls fine, that means the diff's are okay.

You also need to verify brake setup, and spur gear mesh.

 

[Pineapple]

Thats weird Moto because my X RTR came with the dual. Maybe it's the X SS RTR that comes with the single?
That "catching" problem could be related to the melting though Nut-Z-check your diffs and trans like Moto suggested.

 

[NUT-Z]

I have the X RTR kit with the single so I dunno, I think I found my problem when I replaced the spur gear I also swapped to the dual SS brake kit and one of the pads ripped off the caliper part and was putting the disc in a bind. The brakes on these trucks are horrible has anyone tried the integy titanium brake kit?

 

[Pineapple]

Good that you found the problem!
I didn't like the dual steel brake either. I have the red single on there now and love it.

 

[MotoPsycho]

I had brake problems right up until I re-did my linkages, and got rid of that crappy stock servo arm. I run the dual SS brakes and love 'em!

 

[MTBikerTim]

I was going to say you have a brake problem. Good thing you found the issue. Have you got a skid plate? The fibre disk brakes are really easy to damage I have found.

 

[YeahYeah]

When we replaced them we tightened the nuts down all the way on the slipper...

Guys, please correct me if I am wrong, but couldn't this also be a problem? Aren't you supposed to tighten the nut all the way down and then back it off about 1/2 a turn? If you've got it cranked down all the way, your slipper clutch won't really be able to slip at all.

This would also explain why it is so hard to brake, because if that slipper clutch cannot slip, the wheels will still be driven more I think, which obviously will make braking a bit tougher.

Again, I could be wrong, especially on the specifics, but I know that the manual says to back the nut off 1/2 turn from all the way.

 

[Pineapple]

Most like me tighten that nut all the way. It will still slip if needed. With it being tight it wont slip unnecessarily and melt pads.
I don't see how the slipper clutch and brake performance tie in together though.

 

[thrasher6]

As long as you run a modified linkage, the dual disk brake is a great setup. As it was mentioned, though, it's a real pain in the rear with the stock linkage. I tighten the nut all the way on my spur gear as well. Slipping sucks...run it WIDE OPEN!!! lol

 

[bendar]

I took the spring out of my brake set up and put a piece of fuel tubing in. It has the duel red disk set-up and i think it works great. You can still addjust the tension with the nut.

 

[AoD]

Thats weird Moto because my X RTR came with the dual. Maybe it's the X SS RTR that comes with the single?
That "catching" problem could be related to the melting though Nut-Z-check your diffs and trans like Moto suggested.

Found out why too. The MAN at the lhs told me why. There's actually been 2 different X 4.6 RTR's. The one had the plastic diff cup in the front he believes, AND had the dual setup. The newer versions have the metal diff cups and the single setup. 🙂 He said he's seen both, and sold both. I'm guessing it was one of those, quiet like updates from HPI! 🙂

Bendar, that's a great idea for the stock linkage, but the biggest problem I've found with that; The servo saver on the servo with the stock linkage is really loose. Best idea is to modify the linkage so there is no hinge point like the servo saver. This will reduce any torque loss and cause the brakes to function correctly. My brake discs have just about 5 gallons on them and they still flip the truck on command! 😀 Modified linkage is the way to go with the brake setup. The stock setup just doesn't cut it for me anymore.

 

[XxxNate's SavagexxX]

use the dual brakes....they are wierd bc they catch easy..

 

[MotoPsycho]

Found out why too. The MAN at the lhs told me why. There's actually been 2 different X 4.6 RTR's. The one had the plastic diff cup in the front he believes, AND had the dual setup. The newer versions have the metal diff cups and the single setup.

I'll bet yer right. I know they started out with plastic diff cups, then started including metal cups that you had to install yourself, then the metal came installed. Dunno 'bout the brake config, but it makes sense.