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Teknoron

Teknoron

Active Member
Messages
73
First resurrected my HPI 4.1, Should I stick with the OS #8 plugs? I live in Florida and it does get hot.

Second I got rid of my OS 30vg, started becoming a money pit. I have been looking at the threads and seems like there is a lot of intrest with the Axial .28 and the STS .30. which is the faster / better performance, and durability.
 
What cost are reffering to with the OS??

An STS DM30 willl Stomp An Axial. Bottom line. Get an STS DM30RB, it will stomp it a hell of a lot more.IMO
 
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DOOBEEWHA said:
What cost are reffering to with the OS??

An STS DM30 willl Stomp An Axial. Bottom line. Get an STS DM30RB, it will stomp it a hell of a lot more.IMO
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The piston and sleeve need to be replaced, have found some fuel in the front so seems to be the front bearing is shot. I sold it for 100 bucks so either the Axial or STS is practically free. The engine was awesome as fast as H3ll! it kept tearing up rotostarts and one-ways. Had the Engine for 6 months, paid $150 used from a guy who put it in his savage punched it wide open, forgot to put fresh batteries in the radio, went wide open full blast and smacked a fire Hydrant. So I did get my money's worth.
 
use an med cold or cold plug. use 30% and it will drop the temps also.
 
Wow.. thats alot of info..lol
First off, if ya wanna save your oneway and your roto start, crack the plug a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn to relieve the compression abit. after it starts, tighten it back up.
A quality front bearing is about $15. problem solved.

Here's the dealio on OS's.. My bud told me that as strong as OS's already are, they really haven't been touched (port &polished) yet.
This means that if you can send the mill to RBmods and throw down $125, you'll have a moster mill that will stand up to any mill in it's class.

Plus, the OS is already made with higher quality materials, giving it a desirable foundation for a P & P mod to begin with.

You may have gotten a good deal and thats cool.

I personally would have kept the OS, myself. With a STS DM30, you still sould consider the cost of the pipe that STS reccommends.
 
there are quite a few plugs that i have used. different plugs act for better or worse with some engines. I use the O'Donnell 99 plugs and the HPI plugs for hot weather. cold and mild i go to the OS8 or fox plugs. DO not use the sts pipe on a STS .30 found that out. jp3 or hot bodies pipe runs great. Or use the stock tuned pipe from hpi. The sts puts a lot of back pressure on the 30 for bottom end and it doesn't need it.
 
DOOBEEWHA said:
Mc Coy mc-8 glowplug Med-cold
Click to expand...

I did think about keeping it, but I have a lot of parts in a box that I said I would get back to. So I decided to just get rid of it and start fresh with a New engine. The STS looks pretty good, cant swing the RBmod one at this time. There is a Revo with a modded OS .18 that is real fast. I did love the OS .30 would smoke him in the straight away. Hopefully the Axial or the STS will do the same.
 
Megabyteme said:
there are quite a few plugs that i have used. different plugs act for better or worse with some engines. I use the O'Donnell 99 plugs and the HPI plugs for hot weather. cold and mild i go to the OS8 or fox plugs. DO not use the sts pipe on a STS .30 found that out. jp3 or hot bodies pipe runs great. Or use the stock tuned pipe from hpi. The sts puts a lot of back pressure on the 30 for bottom end and it doesn't need it.
Click to expand...

I picked up this tuned pipe off of a Warhead, and it made a big different on the OS 30, on the Mach 28 before i stripped the one way. and it sounded incredible when i fired up my 4.1
 
If you do an STS you need to hook up with Mark from STS micro engines. He is a friend of ours and a member of the site. He is in the affiliates section.
 
I agree with mega, I run the jp3 pipe on my 928 and it made a big difference from the stock pipe. Mc coy mc8 holds up well
 
Megabyteme said:
there are quite a few plugs that i have used. different plugs act for better or worse with some engines. I use the O'Donnell 99 plugs and the HPI plugs for hot weather. cold and mild i go to the OS8 or fox plugs. DO not use the sts pipe on a STS .30 found that out. jp3 or hot bodies pipe runs great. Or use the stock tuned pipe from hpi. The sts puts a lot of back pressure on the 30 for bottom end and it doesn't need it.
Click to expand...
thanks Mega,.. Good to know, bud
 
Megabyteme said:
If you do an STS you need to hook up with Mark from STS micro engines. He is a friend of ours and a member of the site. He is in the affiliates section.
Click to expand...

Well I think I have decided to do the STS D30M. Well at least 97.5% I think that green head on the Axial .28 is just too cool. And yeah I think I need to get a hold of Mark. I was checking EBay and they run about the same price, but I really don’t want to be waiting for an engine for 14 to 21 days. And as much as I would love to, the RBmod one is not in this season’s race budget. A couple of the trucks out there are running Picco .28’s and a modded OS .18 that is real fast. One guy runs an Axial .28 but he is always in the wall so I can never get a good idea how fast the engine is. And of course a couple of Revo’s running the 3.3. Have read a lot of good reviews on the STS D30M, none have listed the horsepower. Plus it seems a lot of the guys here really like that engine, and some do like the Axial. But it looks like power and performance the D30M should be kicking some butt on the track.
 
Mark is one of the US distributer so more than likely most people are getting the engines from him.
 
The STS D30M is a rocket plain and simple. BUT it does have it's draw backs. First the carb o-rings suck, then don't seal very well and allow the needles to move around making tuning very frustrating. Second the needles themselves have a very course thread so a very small turn will result in a large change in air fuel ratio.

If you are patient with the needles and get a good set of o-rings you will be all set.

I have an RB modded STS D30M and love it, BUT I also got an Axial .28 Spec 1 RR and let me tell you it rips. I would say the .28 RR is the fastest .28 I have ever seen, including the LRP Spec 3 which is another engine that I love. If the STS's issues have you second guessing the .28 RR is amazing. Tunes just like a stock K4.6 with about twice the power, or so it seems in my Hellfire.

To compare the standard Axial .28 to the STS .30 is a little unfair. The Axial is a novice race engine and the STS is an expert race engine. Give both to the locals at the track and most of them would get better performance out of the Axial because it is more user friendly. The STS is the faster mill, by far, but because you need to be ontop of your tuning game to get the most out of it 80% of the people racing for fun would miss the power tune.

If the STS is in your future run 30% nitro fuel and a hot plug. I run Trinity monster power 30% and a McCoy MC-59 plug. The 30% will lower your temps and help with the break in. I suggest a heat cycle type of break in. I posted my break in plan here, https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2799 . My plan is a very long winded ordeal but the end produce is a very fast well running mill.

Good luck with which ever mill you buy.
 
Megabyteme said:
there are quite a few plugs that i have used. different plugs act for better or worse with some engines. I use the O'Donnell 99 plugs and the HPI plugs for hot weather. cold and mild i go to the OS8 or fox plugs. DO not use the sts pipe on a STS .30 found that out. jp3 or hot bodies pipe runs great. Or use the stock tuned pipe from hpi. The sts puts a lot of back pressure on the 30 for bottom end and it doesn't need it.
Click to expand...

Mega, which STS pipe are you talking about? The 0403 for the .21 or the 0702 for the .28/.30?

I am using the 0702 STS pipe with my RB D30M and it seems to work very well, nice broad powerband. I have tried the HPI polished and an SH golden lion pipe and neither were as good as the STS, for me anyway.

Which pipe have you had the best results with?
 
Teknoron said:
Well I think I have decided to do the STS D30M. Well at least 97.5% I think that green head on the Axial .28 is just too cool. And yeah I think I need to get a hold of Mark. I was checking EBay and they run about the same price, but I really don’t want to be waiting for an engine for 14 to 21 days. And as much as I would love to, the RBmod one is not in this season’s race budget. A couple of the trucks out there are running Picco .28’s and a modded OS .18 that is real fast. One guy runs an Axial .28 but he is always in the wall so I can never get a good idea how fast the engine is. And of course a couple of Revo’s running the 3.3. Have read a lot of good reviews on the STS D30M, none have listed the horsepower. Plus it seems a lot of the guys here really like that engine, and some do like the Axial. But it looks like power and performance the D30M should be kicking some butt on the track.
Click to expand...

Horse power ratings on nitro engines is just a guess, the HPI K4.6 probably doesn't make 2.9 HP, so don't worry about HP ratings.

The STS is the fastest sub $140.00 egine you can buy. The weight of your Savage is your biggest enemy. The STS will have no trouble pulling your truck down the straights.

I an running 15T CB and 47T spur gear, any higher gearing is major overkill for my local track. This gearing wheelies at will, which is a problem coming out of the corners on the pavement track but isn't as big an issue on the dirt track.
 
Defiantspaz said:
Horse power ratings on nitro engines is just a guess, the HPI K4.6 probably doesn't make 2.9 HP, so don't worry about HP ratings.

The STS is the fastest sub $140.00 egine you can buy. The weight of your Savage is your biggest enemy. The STS will have no trouble pulling your truck down the straights.

I an running 15T CB and 47T spur gear, any higher gearing is major overkill for my local track. This gearing wheelies at will, which is a problem coming out of the corners on the pavement track but isn't as big an issue on the dirt track.
Click to expand...


According to the findings of Mega's Dyno chart comparisions, the hpi 4.6 puts out far less than 2.9 HP.

If memory serves me correctly, it's more like under 1.5 HP. As 1.37 HP rings a bell for some reason.

I found this out when I sought out the HP for what my Dynamite Mach 28 actually puts out.

Dynamite rated their mill for 3.6 HP as the the manufacture claim, yet the dyno chart indicates a 1.87 HP in actual HP.

That appeared to be the trend with the manufactures pattern of self-rating their own findings.

This pattern suggests the one could assume that if you've got a rated mill at 3.0 HP, your really getting a mill that's 1.5.


================This based on the trends of the dyno comparisions chart.==================

-
 
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HP ratings on nitro mills are just for bragging and increasing sales, remember that companies only need to include 33% trueth in their ads.

SO, an ad for the DS .32 UBS nitro engine:

manufacturer; Defiantspaz Inc.
displacement; .32 CI
max RPM; 100,000 RPM
HP rating; 100HP
Carb size; 10mm
UBS piston/ sleave construction, U Been Screwed!

The only trueths here were the size and manufacturer the rest is total BS, BUT the fake ad would be totally legal.

Just food for thought 😛assgas:
 
I have 100 DS .32 UBS nitro's for sale, $400.00 each, GET THEM WHILE THEY LAST. They might look like HPI's K4.1 BUT trust me they are high power engines!

Wait, I think I've been :40:

Seriously though, HP ratings are to make the customer feel good about dropping $500.00 on his rare ITALIAN race mill, I'm ITALIAN so I can go there :moon:

Do your research and get the right mill for your needs, some time more is just too much. There are tons of great mills for under $200.00, most under $180.00 and some under $150.00.
 
you guys need to get the September issue of extreme rc. nice article about the prop dyno and there x dyno.
 
Defiantspaz said:
The STS D30M is a rocket plain and simple. BUT it does have it's draw backs. First the carb o-rings suck, then don't seal very well and allow the needles to move around making tuning very frustrating. Second the needles themselves have a very course thread so a very small turn will result in a large change in air fuel ratio.

If you are patient with the needles and get a good set of o-rings you will be all set.

I have an RB modded STS D30M and love it, BUT I also got an Axial .28 Spec 1 RR and let me tell you it rips. I would say the .28 RR is the fastest .28 I have ever seen, including the LRP Spec 3 which is another engine that I love. If the STS's issues have you second guessing the .28 RR is amazing. Tunes just like a stock K4.6 with about twice the power, or so it seems in my Hellfire.

To compare the standard Axial .28 to the STS .30 is a little unfair. The Axial is a novice race engine and the STS is an expert race engine. Give both to the locals at the track and most of them would get better performance out of the Axial because it is more user friendly. The STS is the faster mill, by far, but because you need to be ontop of your tuning game to get the most out of it 80% of the people racing for fun would miss the power tune.

If the STS is in your future run 30% nitro fuel and a hot plug. I run Trinity monster power 30% and a McCoy MC-59 plug. The 30% will lower your temps and help with the break in. I suggest a heat cycle type of break in. I posted my break in plan here, https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2799 . My plan is a very long winded ordeal but the end produce is a very fast well running mill.

Good luck with which ever mill you buy.
Click to expand...

The OS 30vg I had was great when I first got it, once it was set I barely had to adjust the HSN a ¼ turn. And that was depending on the weather. Now would the Axial be faster or as fast as the OS 30vg? I have seen “crashes†vid on his Axial and I was very impressed with the quickness. And user friendly is always a plus. When I am racing I just want to fine tune depending on the weather, not have to play with it before / during the race.
 
Defiantspaz said:
If you are patient with the needles and get a good set of o-rings you will be all set.

If the STS is in your future run 30% nitro fuel and a hot plug. I run Trinity monster power 30% and a McCoy MC-59 plug. The 30% will lower your temps and help with the break in. I suggest a heat cycle type of break in. I posted my break in plan here, https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2799 . My plan is a very long winded ordeal but the end produce is a very fast well running mill.

Good luck with which ever mill you buy.
Click to expand...

Just checked out the link you included, basically if I yank my carb off my HPI engine the tuning issue is resolved just like you did. Seems to me IMO that for a modded engine this would have been taken care of. But Thanks a bunch this was the kind of info I was looking for.

Seems people who have the Axial love it or the guys who have the D30M love the RB mod one. if I knew the Axial was as fast or faster than then my old OS 30vg I would get it till I had the funds to buy the D30M RB mod one.
 
Tek,

I used the carb off of the HPI K4.6HO whick is the same 9mm carb Axial uses on their mills.

The carb on the STS's only real issue is bad o-rings. My STS's carb just wouldn't hold a tune even after new o-rings were installed so I switched to the HPI 9mm carb.

The mods done by RB are to the crank and sleave mainly, Rick doesn't touch the carb to my knowledge.

The STS is a fine choice just understand that sealing the engine and changing the carb o-rings are a must. Tuning is a little different because of the course needles, just use a 1/16th of a turn per adjustment instead of the normal 1/8th turn.

I enjoy both my RB STS and Axial .28 RR equally so you will be happy with either one.
 
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