Need some feed back!

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Tek,

I used the carb off of the HPI K4.6HO whick is the same 9mm carb Axial uses on their mills.

The carb on the STS's only real issue is bad o-rings. My STS's carb just wouldn't hold a tune even after new o-rings were installed so I switched to the HPI 9mm carb.

The mods done by RB are to the crank and sleave mainly, Rick doesn't touch the carb to my knowledge.

The STS is a fine choice just understand that sealing the engine and changing the carb o-rings are a must. Tuning is a little different because of the course needles, just use a 1/16th of a turn per adjustment instead of the normal 1/8th turn.

I enjoy both my RB STS and Axial .28 RR equally so you will be happy with either one.

Crap the only one I have is the 4.1 and the carb on my Mach .28. The copper sealent would be found at home depot, lowes, or auto parts?
 
You can pick up the Permatex Ultra Copper at all most any auto parts store, I have been told that Threebond 1211 silicone is the best sealant to use for nitro engines because it won't be disolved by the nitro. No one in my area sells the Threebond 1211 so I used the Permatex Ultra Copper without any issues.

You can use an o-ring kit for the HPI 25's carb and some Associated green slime to seal up the STS's carbs needles. My carb was faulty so my needles would walk around, most people have no issues with the carb needles after replacing the o-rings and lubing with green slime.

As for a carb switch, the STS wants a ton of air so anything smaller than 9mm with just limit your power. The o-rings and green slime are cheap to buy and easy to install in the STS carb.

My issues were a case basis and not the norm from what I have been reading. I was just posting the info incase another member has been try'n to deal with the same problems.

In the end the STS will flat out impress you when you get it completely broken in and tuned correctly. The STS really needs to have a one gallon break in and then it continues to get stronger through the next gallon.
 
You can pick up the Permatex Ultra Copper at all most any auto parts store, I have been told that Threebond 1211 silicone is the best sealant to use for nitro engines because it won't be disolved by the nitro. No one in my area sells the Threebond 1211 so I used the Permatex Ultra Copper without any issues.

You can use an o-ring kit for the HPI 25's carb and some Associated green slime to seal up the STS's carbs needles. My carb was faulty so my needles would walk around, most people have no issues with the carb needles after replacing the o-rings and lubing with green slime.

As for a carb switch, the STS wants a ton of air so anything smaller than 9mm with just limit your power. The o-rings and green slime are cheap to buy and easy to install in the STS carb.

My issues were a case basis and not the norm from what I have been reading. I was just posting the info incase another member has been try'n to deal with the same problems.

In the end the STS will flat out impress you when you get it completely broken in and tuned correctly. The STS really needs to have a one gallon break in and then it continues to get stronger through the next gallon.

Do you know what size the 4.1 carb is? just in case I get the STS and have the personal tuning issue, eye and BIG HANDS cordenation. That is the only thing that has me a little worried about the STS D30M. I work on laptops all day and not afraid of tiny parts. And yes I have go over in my mind the difference of the Axial and easy of tuning, or the STS and the possible carb issue and very fine tuning yet have an incredibly fast engine.
 
The F4.1 carb is 7.5mm.

The HPI 9mm Carb from the K4.6HO's part number is 15261 and Towerhobbies sells them for $58.00 just incase you want to add that into the final cost.
 
The F4.1 carb is 7.5mm.

The HPI 9mm Carb from the K4.6HO's part number is 15261 and Towerhobbies sells them for $58.00 just incase you want to add that into the final cost.

Hmmm that Axial is looking like a sweet engine.
 

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