Can anybody help me identify this problem on my savage ?

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GLISEON

Active Member
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106
Hello, I've been having some issues on making my savage x run right. Before it was like this it was running well and then I stripped the spur gear which I think from bad meshing. Now that I replaced both spur gear and clutch bell to heavy duty variants, I've been having this underwhelming problem. Whenever throttle is applied it bogs very bad, I brought it to factory settings and I know it's supposed to be running at a fair speed. But it just feels, and seems like it's drowning. Could this have been caused by a incorrect clutch bell placement or anything along those lines? Please any help would be greatly appreciated. I left a video under so you guys can have an idea on what I am experiencing.
(P.s leaning any of the needles does not help)
Thank you.

 
sadly that vid is so short and with you pulling the throttle like that it is going to be very hard to help diagnose anything it may be doing.....
 
sadly that vid is so short and with you pulling the throttle like that it is going to be very hard to help diagnose anything it may be doing.....
Sorry about that ); but what I noticed is that the clutch shoes are turning freely in the clutch bell and not really engaging inside. Is that supposed to be happening?
 
are the shoe on right?
I never tinkered around with the shoes, but I changed out the clutch bell. Maybe it's not pressed enough on the shoes as in the video you can see the shoes from the back of the clutch bell
 
also look for air leaks! when you took stuff apart to fix, may have developed an air leak, check gasket around exhaust header that mounts to engine block, could be bad , also check gasket between header and muffler , that zip tied gasket may nee re zip tied and good and snug , also might check fuel lines, if old replace, and maybe check tightness on cooling head bolts.
 
also look for air leaks! when you took stuff apart to fix, may have developed an air leak, check gasket around exhaust header that mounts to engine block, could be bad , also check gasket between header and muffler , that zip tied gasket may nee re zip tied and good and snug , also might check fuel lines, if old replace, and maybe check tightness on cooling head bolts.
Ay thank you ! You know what the gasket that seals the muffler and header is quite loose. Have to tighten and check all those other spots too!
 
If you hsd an air leak it would run kean and high idle. Leaning the lsn should raise the idle. Idk how it wouldnt.

You shouldnt have had to mess with the needles just swapping a spur gear.
 
If you hsd an air leak it would run kean and high idle. Leaning the lsn should raise the idle. Idk how it wouldnt.

You shouldnt have had to mess with the needles just swapping a spur gear.
idk man honestly I don't know what the truck has at the moment but I'm going to try everything to make it run how it's supposed to
 
Fuel on outside of both gaskets. Is this caused by an air leak ?
 

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Doing an old trick by putting a ballon on the carb and seeing if it deflates to confirm I have an air leak. Any other methods to checking for air leaks ?
 
Its not an air leak. An air leak will do the opposite of this. Hes running rich, both needles. I'm also thinking the brake is dragging. You mentioned messing with the brakes and servo horn. Do the wheels spin freely?
 
Its not an air leak. An air leak will do the opposite of this. Hes running rich, both needles. I'm also thinking the brake is dragging. You mentioned messing with the brakes and servo horn. Do the wheels spin freely?
Even if I am running rich it's at factory settings and should run fairly at that. But that's a good point with the brakes because they are honestly so unresponsive. When i push it it feels a little hard
 
Truck should roll freely with a nudge fron your foot. If its not rolling freely, thats your problem. Either linkage setting, horn position, trim setting or brakes are assembled wrong
 
Truck should roll freely with a nudge fron your foot. If its not rolling freely, thats your problem. Either linkage setting, horn position, trim setting or brakes are assembled wrong
Nevermind truck rolled freely. I'll be posting a decently long vid on Wednesday of the truck on idle and rolling.
 
Factory settings are for break-in and are very rich. You need to lean it out and make a WOT run after each adjustment to clear out the crankcase. Make 1/8 turn adjustments until you see the performance pick up then make 1 hour adjustments to fine tune it. Once the HSN is set then lean the LSN 1 hour at a time until you have a nice crisp takeoff and smooth idle. You can tell its very rich now by the oil trail its leaving. You should have a very fine mist of oil droplets coming out the exhaust at idle when its set right.
 
Will be posting video up later showing, startup, idleing, and running.
 
I'll second the fact that "factory" settings are typically overly rich for break-in purposes. It's a base line, not a "good running" setting. It seems to idle for you, so focus on the HSN until you can get a clean WOT run, then dial back the LSN a bit so it doesn't load up really bad when sitting/idling for 15 seconds or so.
 
I'll second the fact that "factory" settings are typically overly rich for break-in purposes. It's a base line, not a "good running" setting. It seems to idle for you, so focus on the HSN until you can get a clean WOT run, then dial back the LSN a bit so it doesn't load up really bad when sitting/idling for 15 seconds or so.
Hey man that's exactly what I did today and it was running well! Thank you everybody for the help
 
Little bashing today !

 

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