Dad's dedication to Joseph Paul "Angel"

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Joe, sweet build.

you make it look like you been buildin savages all yo life. army

Fred, I just take my time to analyize a few different ideas before starting plus others like yourself established threads already. I just do some steps differently but the outcome are ussualy the same. Thanks again.
 
Rsc

Now that the FLM40010 XL Hybrid Bulkheads (front), HPI102692HPI "Bulletproof" Ring/Pinion Gear Set (shimmed, 30K Mugen diff oil and heavy duty grease 30K exterior of cup) and bottom A Arms installed. I got to working with the Race Suspension Conversion. I used longer screws M4 20 with M4 lock nuts to prevent the backing out and loosening of nuts. I think the kit supplies M4 12. I replaced the oring #75080 in the diff shaft, mine were already worn after only 2 motnhs for bashing.





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Awaiting my A720 - BIG BORE ALUMINUM SHOCK SET to arrive. I'm using the stock ones for layup. You get a sneak of the rear.
 
Now that the FLM40010 XL Hybrid Bulkheads (front), HPI102692HPI "Bulletproof" Ring/Pinion Gear Set (shimmed, 30K Mugen diff oil and heavy duty grease 30K exterior of cup) and bottom A Arms installed. I got to working with the Race Suspension Conversion. I used longer screws M4 20 with M4 lock nuts to prevent the backing out and loosening of nuts. I think the kit supplies M4 12. I replaced the oring #75080 in the diff shaft, mine were already worn after only 2 months of bashing.

Awaiting my A720 - BIG BORE ALUMINUM SHOCK SET to arrive. I'm using the stock ones for layup. You get a sneak of the rear.

Don't mind my spanglish in the previous post. As long as you know what I meant. LMAO
 
Shock tower installation

So now the bulkhead and BP differential are complete time to install the tower. I did not use the screws that came with the towers. For the bottom half i used M4 20 and M4 lock nut in the rear to hold it all.

The top two screws were replaces as well. M4 10 In japan it is titanium (silber) LOL

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Upgraded the steering servo

Part list
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I removed the two screws that fasten the steering crank post to the lower plate to install the bearing.
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Removed the plastic steering brace from both crank post and installed FLM 48000.
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Done. I changed the stock screws and M4 12 screws (hex) to mount it back up to the lower plate.

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I upgraded the joint cups into the bulkheads with heavy duty cup joint. It is the same for the rear.
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You have your self on heck of a build going on here Joe!! Keep the pics coming!! +rep!!
 
You have your self on heck of a build going on here Joe!! Keep the pics coming!! +rep!!

Thanks SavyScott. I am having a heak of time that I sometimes loose track of time and sleep. Non the less I am having fun and learning new things about the truck. ALMOST 😛artyon:
 
all them parts are for one truck?

Yup, that is what i used for this build. After I surveyed the stock list I only need the internals for a three speed and new radio and I have a basher. Must of the parts that came off were in good condition except the 5.9 engine. I will not touch the 5.9 engine ever.
 
Steering Servo

I decided to use the Associated DS1015 Hi Torque/Hi Speed Digital Servo with RCE10380BK Racers Edge Aluminum Pro Adjustable Single Arm Futaba Servo Horn, and FLM Servo mount

Specs 14.5kg-cm/201.4 oz-in @ 6volt
Transit Time (sec/60degree) .108


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is than an ACE ds1015??? looks a little different... Ace is a Great servo... I still need need an alu horn for it though.. Do all futaba horns work?
 
is than an ACE ds1015??? looks a little different... Ace is a Great servo... I still need need an alu horn for it though.. Do all futaba horns work?

This is the new look same servo and it is fast as hell. Yes Futaba will work.
 
Servo attachment

This is how it looks from the inside
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Screws mounted on the outside
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Without the steering linkage mounted use the hole and gap to fasten the linkage. I had plugged the receiver and turned on the transmitter to set the servo at center (zero for my transmitter). Adjusted the length of my steering linkage and then I fastened the servo horn to servo.

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Looks killer man, not sure about the aluminum body mounts though. My plastic ones take a beating, and I'm pretty sure they would be bent many times over by now if I used them.
 
Its looking really good and SHINY!!! not a fan of the body mounts... i would just leave them to the side when you are bashing... and then put them back on when its on the shelf 🙂
 

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