HPI's Perfect gear mesh spacing trick

[ShiftPoint]

Hi,

I am posting this because I didn't see it in the Savage SS manual, so I guess it is new in the Savage X SS manual, and because I was worried about getting this correct for the simple reason it is, or was for me anyway) impossiable to see the mesh spacing, and because from what Ive read here, improper mesh spacing causes a lot of problems.

So for those of you who haven't seen this for whatever reason, heres a trick they show in the SS X version manual.

I will post a picture cut from the manual, but basically they leave a strip of paper along the bottom of the page to cut out and put between the gears, then you just tighten the motor down and roll the paper out.

Hope this helps,


John

 

[X25]

Thanks for the info i hope it helps other as well as it has helped you

 

[MTBikerTim]

The first time I tried this it didn't really work. So being the dedicated person I am I gave up.

My rule of thumb is that if there is friction between the gears they are too tight. If you can hold one of the gears still and move the other one and it moves a noticeable amount it's too loose. You want I tiny bit of slop but you want as little as possible without creating drag (You never want DRAG).

Then I just use trial and error. I set the motor tighten the bolts if I find it's too lose I loosen the bolts move the engine tighten them and check again. I repeat this until it's perfect normally takes 3 or 4 goes. You don't want your spur and pinion to have any drag between them (too tight) or you will melt your spur. So far I have only stripped one spur and that was due to a stick getting into it. Note I also have a crap engine.

Note I also remove the bolts which hold the engine one at a time and loctite them and then check that the mesh is correct.

 

[DOOBEEWHA]

-

Wister,... This is a good tip..
I say this in the face of those who have already heard it before.
Why?... Because HPI has provided the paper to use and the mesh setup.

I think thats pretty important considering there's a bazillion paper thicknesses
out there and which one is the best?...

This removes any doubt. Good Post, John.

I've adopted the same method as Tim.
Over time, you begin to get a feel for it and learn little ways to verify the sweet spot.

when I have the gears in place as Tim said with the bolts finger tight, I move the spur
gear back and forth while also holding the CB in a frose position.

I listen for a faint clicking sound that indicates there's enough looseness in the mesh.
If it's still too loose, Just gently tap the crankcase with a tool handle or something to
firm up the gear mesh until a propper fit is established.

Now tighten the bolts, your done,... Let'er rip!

-

 

[ShiftPoint]

Thanks for the advice guys! Actually that's about how I did it the first time, except I didn't think about the threadlock, I mean I put thread lock on them but I did it the first time then kept have to re applying it every time the motor moved because of tightening it, or whatever makes it move. I don't know why I didn't think about re-doing it one at a time, thanks for the tip!

I figure I will try the HPI trick first. I had a tough time deciding it was ok last time, if you know what I mean, kept re-doing it even though it was probably ok. It would be nice it we could see down in there, I guess maybe a dentist mirroe tool would be ok, might not reven be able to get one of those in there.

Thanks for the advice.

I just built the shocks, yes I know Iam slow, In better times I think I could have put one of these together in in a night. Oh well I am enjoying it anyway.

One timeg that's a pain is the linkage for the reverse module, I really like having the reverse cause I have a hard time walking and the times I have crashed into places where I had to back out were tough for me to get to. I just hope I have it working ok.

Oh Doob, I see what you mean about the mixer being junk, I agree, just putting one in the circut causes the servos to hum and makwe weird noises, it does it on both my trucks. I will get a 3 ch radio in a month or 2 when I get my card paid off. BTW, is there any reson to get more than 3 ch? I don't want to buy a 3ch then find out a 4 ch would be better.


Thanks,

John

 

[RangerRock]

Wow HPI went from putting a 4 channel receiver in the 25 to only a 2 channel receivers..............

I liked the reverse but I have had probs with it for some reason. I took my reverse out today and put my 2 speed back in.

Back on topic: I have used the paper trick once or twice but I just feel for it.

Once you have replaced as many spur gears as me you get to know how to set it.

 

[Jeremy]

Tell you the truth .... Never used the paper trick .. I tried it once just to see if it worked, I didn't like how it felt so .. I did it my way ... (just for the feel) I really haven't ever had a problem w/ my gear mesh unless my motor plate was tweaked . LUCKY ME ! . ooh btw iam on my 2 1/2 gallon on my spur ....

 

[DOOBEEWHA]

Oh Doob, I see what you mean about the mixer being junk, I agree, just putting one in the circut causes the servos to hum and makwe weird noises, it does it on both my trucks. I will get a 3 ch radio in a month or 2 when I get my card paid off. BTW, is there any reson to get more than 3 ch? I don't want to buy a 3ch then find out a 4 ch would be better.

I guess it all depends on what you want on the truck.

With a fourth, fifth, and sixth channel RX,... You can do a few cool mod apps with the extea gear.
1.) Add servo for rear quad steering.

2.)Add servo for switch on stuff like Head lights, Fog lights, on board audio effects or music ect.

3.) Add servo to pull triger to a paint ball gun, real gun, ect.

4.) Add servo for for NOS or hydraulics, ect.

The possibillities are vast with a powerful imagination.