TheFixxer's "The Assassin"

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About time. My Losi 3.4 has finally arrived. It'll be game time this afternoon. I miss my Savage. The Revo just don't have the same wow factor.
 
Well, decided the HPI hearse body will only see shelf time. I ran it last night with the new Losi 3.4 for a bit and realized I don't have squat for air flow through that body. I could cut out the front and rear windshield but I also noticed the cooling head is almost butt up against the roof. I think it's best to use the original HPI Bronco body I got with it for bashing. Especially when for any reason the engine chokes and needs to be restarted the hearse body has to be totally removed.
 
Fixxer the lid came out sweet!!! Looks great.
Dose the liquid mask that you used come in a spray can? looks like good stuff.
 
Gav said:
Fixxer the lid came out sweet!!! Looks great.
Dose the liquid mask that you used come in a spray can? looks like good stuff.
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Thanks brudda. No, the liquid mask I use is brushed on. 3 or 4 coats.
 
joegibbstruck said:
Your Good at it though, the lid turned out really nice
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Thanks. Been painting lids for a long time. The liquid mask I use has directions for spraying but I just prefer to brush it on. If it works don't fix it I guess.

I ordered another HPI Grave Robber hearse just like this one and will paint in a similar scheme but make the necessary modifications to actually run it. Got it a few days ago but haven't had time to start paint. Was out playing with the crawler the other day and a boulder came loose right above where the truck was and squashed the front end like a bug. Been busy tearing it apart and assessing damage.
 
TheFixxer said:
Thanks. Been painting lids for a long time. The liquid mask I use has directions for spraying but I just prefer to brush it on. If it works don't fix it I guess.

I ordered another HPI Grave Robber hearse just like this one and will paint in a similar scheme but make the necessary modifications to actually run it. Got it a few days ago but haven't had time to start paint. Was out playing with the crawler the other day and a boulder came loose right above where the truck was and squashed the front end like a bug. Been busy tearing it apart and assessing damage.
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You said "crawler"....:woot:
Whatcha gots fer a crawler????????
I just picked up an Axial SCX-10 Trail Honcho with a few minor upgrades(because I'm now addicted to crawling too) for dirt cheap.
It has a brushed setup(unfortunately) with a crappy 27 turn motor that runs better in reverse than forward, and is set up for NiMHs which is good because I don't have Lipos yet.
Gonna pick up a cheap 55 turn motor for it on my next 2 hour round trip to the (not-so)LHS until I can swing for Lipos and a brushless setup.:p

Would you be kind enough to measure the wheelbase and overall width of the Grave Robber body for me?
I thought it might look cool on my SCX-10 if it will fit.
Thanks!!
 
FullThrottle said:
You said "crawler"....:woot:
Whatcha gots fer a crawler????????
I just picked up an Axial SCX-10 Trail Honcho with a few minor upgrades(because I'm now addicted to crawling too) for dirt cheap.
It has a brushed setup(unfortunately) with a crappy 27 turn motor that runs better in reverse than forward, and is set up for NiMHs which is good because I don't have Lipos yet.
Gonna pick up a cheap 55 turn motor for it on my next 2 hour round trip to the (not-so)LHS until I can swing for Lipos and a brushless setup.:p

Would you be kind enough to measure the wheelbase and overall width of the Grave Robber body for me?
I thought it might look cool on my SCX-10 if it will fit.
Thanks!!
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I just picked up a cheap RedCats RS10 XT Rockslide ($160) a couple months ago to see if I would like crawling. Answer: I do. It's nothing fancy but does have 4WS and 4WD with twin matching 70T 380 can brushed motors. Came with a poor excuse of battery at 1800mAH which I quickly upgraded to an Onyx 5200 and swapped the crappy steering servos out for a pair of Futaba S3305MG. Not going to throw a whole lot more cash at it. Much more fun with my other trucks.

The Grave Robber specs are Length: 20" (508mm) Width: 7.25" (184mm) at widest point Height: 5" (127mm)
 
X said:
You sir have foregone your forum obligations. We expect better of a supporting member!!
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I shall flog myself with a doubled over length of nitro tubing...However in my defense I was not a supporting member at the time of the catastrophe.
 
X said:
Excuses, rampant excuses!!!

I will forgive you this one moment of negligence.
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If it's any consolation I am hanging my head very low at the moment :(


On another note (and I may have hang my feet off a dime from feeling so low after this one)..I have just about everything I need to do the ofna mid tank mod but I stumbled across a thread somewhere over the weekend offering a quick fix. A guy was using a fuel tank off a Revo 3.3 (yep...here it comes..please no mammy please no) on his Savage X SS. The way the tank sits the fuel pick up is dead level with the carb since the pick up is in the top of the tank. He had also made the fuel line from the pipe to the tank as short as physically possible. I get the physics behind that one. Now I looked at the tank on my Revo 3.3 and it is significantly smaller than a stock Savvy tank but I am willing to tolerate that if it's a cheap fix for half tank lean. If it could work I could sell the bits and parts I have collected for the mid tank mod and upgrade something else like shocks or save for some tires (still has the Tmaxx chevrons and rims I bought it with).

Whatchya think?
 
I've not heard of this yet. I'd be curious though to see some results. I'll be the first to say I'd rather not have traxxas parts on my savage, but if it works well then I'd do it. The only people who will know will be knowledgeable enough to realize a good fix when they see it.
 
Just a newb chiming in, but on mine I read addng an extra loop in the fuel line would work. My first 3-4 tanks had the half tank lean, then I made the line from the pipe to the tank as short a physically possible and added 2 extra loops in my line going to the carb about 2 fingers wide and zip tied it to the shock tower. After this i didn't have the leaning problem any more. Don't get me wrong i only put around 10 tanks through it before I tore it apart and turned it into a project, but at least in my case it seemed to work.
 
joegibbstruck said:
Just a newb chiming in, but on mine I read addng an extra loop in the fuel line would work. My first 3-4 tanks had the half tank lean, then I made the line from the pipe to the tank as short a physically possible and added 2 extra loops in my line going to the carb about 2 fingers wide and zip tied it to the shock tower. After this i didn't have the leaning problem any more. Don't get me wrong i only put around 10 tanks through it before I tore it apart and turned it into a project, but at least in my case it seemed to work.
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That is good to know, however I was under the impression all extra tubing did was allow the engine to run longer when the truck was flipped on it lid. Maybe there is more physics to it then that.

Here is a link to the Revo tank mod. The only thing I am leary of is how the tanks sits cocked out from the chassis. Seems to me a guy could take it a step farther and figure out a way to tuck that in flush with the TVP.
http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/139117-hpi-savage-x-46-revo-33-fuel-tank-half-tank-lean-cure/
 
myself i have not had any trouble with the half tank lean issue as yet, if it happens i will deal with it like i do most problems, i redneck engineer alot of my own repairs and am usually happy how they come out...... as always having fun is 1st on my list :)
 
Well I ordered up a complete Revo 3.3 tank and gonna go against the grain and try this out. The volume difference between the Revo and Savvy tank is only 10cc. I was experimenting with the tank that is on my revo last night and I think I have an idea for mounting so it doesn't stick out angled like it shows in that link. I also ordered up some fuel line and an extra long Novarossi fuel filter and bulb primer. I am reading a lot about it being beneficial to have more tubing between the pick up and the carb...so it shall be.

Haven't had a chance to get the Losi 3.4 installed and I want to tear the engine apart and seal it. It did wonders on the Revo. I had some issues getting the carb linkage hooked up on the Revo to the Losi carb but I dodn't see that being an issue on the Savvy. The stock XTM and the Losi are the same size and that is not the case with the stock Revo carb, it's smaller than the Losi. When all the parts come in I will do that project too.

Also on the way is a complete set of stocker shocks. Was staring at it last night and just not happy with the condition of the shocks...pretty beat up. The new shocks come with red springs which will fit the red n black theme better. That will be the last of the purple. Speaking of that I don't recall posting a pic of it all cleaned up and the the hideous purple fleck paint all gone.
So......
Before


After
 
Awesome man, looking forward to seeing some progress pics... truck looks great to.
 
Today's project kids. Adding fuel line, installing the new Hitec Servo, installing the hump cell, and get the shocks built. Picture taken last night, I do have 4 of them done.



I seem to have misplaced a bag somewhere that had the bulb primer and Novarossi fuel filter. I got stuff in about 4 places so I am bound to stumble on it eventually.
 
Did make some progress tonight thanks to @Jam Racing 1. Came through for me on the steering issue. So tonight I got the new Hitec 645MG w/ Kim124 servo saver installed, Shortened the tubing from the tank cap to the pipe, lengthened the tubing from the tank to the carb (wrapped around the shock tower for a minute while waiting for a new roll bar to zip tie it to), small Dubro fuel filter installed til I can find the Novarossi, installed the failsafe and tidied up the radio box.







Still working on the shocks. That might be a project for tomorrow night..I can feel that all jacked up on mountain dew feeling coming and we all know what happens then. Seem to be having a charging issue with the hump cell pack not charging right. I have cycle charged 3 times (charge/discharge) and it won't take more than about 250mAH and it's a 1900mAH Team Orion Marathon pack. I used it on and off for about 5 minutes to center the servo and test the steering then it just went stone dead. Its on the charger now and I set it to charge at 1A. Maybe it had been sitting at the LHS for awhile and needs to be conditioned at a slower charge rate. Not sure,

The Revo tank will be here tomorrow too so that's on the list along with finishing up the shocks.
 
You are WELCOME to all the advice i have, it is free here :) I do think ya got a bit carried away with the fuel line though, only need a small loop in it, but whatever workx for ya there :lmao: one piece of advice I have for ya is to turn around those screws for the rear shocks, else they will surely puncture your fuel tank at the wrong moment in time whilst bashing :)
 
Jam Racing 1 said:
I do think ya got a bit carried away with the fuel line though, only need a small loop in it, but whatever workx for ya there one piece of advice I have for ya is to turn around those screws for the rear shocks, else they will surely puncture your fuel tank at the wrong moment in time whilst bashing :)
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Saw a post somewhere, maybe it was on HPISF, where a guy said a dude they knew was using a whole package of fuel tubing. What I used only looks like a lot because of how its wrapped around the shock tower. It's 16". Duly noted about the shock screws on the rear. I will flip em around when I install the new shocks.

Just realized I have not installed the Losi carb yet so that's on the list for tomorrow night too. Had some luck with the hump cell pack. Charged at 1A and it took 1745mAH. I think it had a couple hundred in it so I am satisfied.
 
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