X 4.6 RTR brakes

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kiwimorton

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I recently just finished breaking the motor in and my brakes aren't stopping the truck as good as I would like. When you get the speed up and use the brakes it carries on going.
I have adjusted the dial on the brake rod clockwise almost to the point where it can't go anymore. It's original factory setting had no brakes at all. What can I do to make it more responsive?
 
i don't have the 4.6 i have the 4.1 but my brakes werent all that great either so i replaced the spring on the adjustment screw with a piece of fuel tubing that was just a "wee" bit longer then the spring this way its not as hard for your servo to apply the brakes! also i found out that the 2 screws on the calipers come loose occasionally so tighten them back up and after getting the hump pack mine actually flipped over when i slammed on the brakes lol so i had to adjust them so i didnt have quite as much brakes! there are other more invloved ways to help your braking which I'm sure people will help u with as I'm not to sure about the other ways but what i've said is what i did and it worked for me thats all i know! hope this helps! try what i said and let us know if it makes a difference if not then we'll start from there! the 4.6 has the dual brakes i think so u should have really good braking i would think, even better then mine as mines just the regular stock brake that comes with the sav 4.1
 
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+1 on the fuel tubing

i hear ya, my stock x 4.6 brakes were rather weak, but after tightening the screw it worked fine for me, i Can pull off front flips no problem.
 
Just watch how tight you make them, eventually you will have a problem flipping over every time you want to stop. On the other hand doing endos are kinda fun sometimes!
 
Ya I Agree The First Time Mine Flipped Over It Was Sorta Funny But I've Heard Having Your Brakes Do That Is Very Hard On Your Diffs! I GUESS ITS THE SUDDEN STOP THAT CAN DO DAMAGE!
 
As I just ran my first post break-in tanks so I just starting to get some speed going here and I'm underwhelmed by the 4.6 RTR's brakes my other vehicles an NTC3 whole other league of braking and a nitro Rustler stop way better.

I did the fuel tubing swap b4 breaking in so I don't even know if it's better than the spring I just know my truck nose dives lazily and is no where near front flips on hard braking. The Disc's seem to have a fair amount of exhaust oil on them but wiping them with rubbing alcohol did nothing.

any ideas????
 
Putting a little bend in the arm that goes to the tranny worked for me before I did the Ofna throttle mod. It would be a good idea to rid yourself of the oil on the discs. Dare I say a little brake cleaner on a rag and wipe them down? I've been yelled at for mentioning brake cleaner before! LOL
 
thanks for the super quick reply....

I'll be very careful with the brake cleaner and I'll get an exhaust deflector to push the oily exhaust to the outside of the vehicle. How do I bend the arm towards or away from the servo?
 
kiwimorton said:
I recently just finished breaking the motor in and my brakes aren't stopping the truck as good as I would like. When you get the speed up and use the brakes it carries on going.
I have adjusted the dial on the brake rod clockwise almost to the point where it can't go anymore. It's original factory setting had no brakes at all. What can I do to make it more responsive?
Click to expand...

I had the same problem with mine 4.6 I had the spring bent over so much and still nothing. If you grabe the brake linkage with your left hand hold it tight, with your right hand start turning the brake adjustment clock wise but as you are turning it push the adjustment down and you should get all the brake power you want. Like the others here mine was nose diving I had to let up on it and now they are excellent. Give it a go let us know Cheers!!:cheers:
 
(useful information removed)
 
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I had the exact problem, got alot of help from everyone, and what whipnet listed there is exactly what I have now, and my brakes are as strong as I want them to be.
 
Also, not to be a naysayer, but I think comparing the braking of a Savage to a Rustler is a bit unfair considering how much bigger the Savage is. And then comparing it to a TC3 Touring Car...well...I would hope the TC would brake better!

On a side note, and this may be a stupid question, but why is the fuel tubing on the linkage so much better than the spring? I mean, obviously the spring puts more give in the linkage, which the fuel tubing eliminates, but does it make that much difference? I already put the Ofna linkage on my truck, but I kept the spring on the linkage, should I just go ahead and put the fuel tubing on there? Thanks!
 
YeahYeah said:
Also, not to be a naysayer, but I think comparing the braking of a Savage to a Rustler is a bit unfair considering how much bigger the Savage is. And then comparing it to a TC3 Touring Car...well...I would hope the TC would brake better!

On a side note, and this may be a stupid question, but why is the fuel tubing on the linkage so much better than the spring? I mean, obviously the spring puts more give in the linkage, which the fuel tubing eliminates, but does it make that much difference? I already put the Ofna linkage on my truck, but I kept the spring on the linkage, should I just go ahead and put the fuel tubing on there? Thanks!
Click to expand...

We're talking about the stock spring, not the OFNA one.
The stock spring is not long enough to engage the brakes adjusted all the way down. You can use some tubing UNTIL you get the OFNA mod. 🙂

*
 
Well now I need to go back and figure out which spring I put on there! LOL. Thank you for the reply though, I will make sure I am running the OFNA spring.

Of course last time I drove my truck the brakes were...deplorable. But I think that was just a matter of needing a little dialing in.
 
LOL.

Mine does front flips and I have a heavy Savage comparably.

elcamino.outside.jpg


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Ok Comparing to the NTC3 is not fair but I did call it (a whole other level of braking) but the Rustler only uses the 2 rear wheels for braking and has a crappy plastic disc as opposed to the Savy's 2 fiber disc's and relatively long lever applying the pressure.

My post was a request for help from the folks who were talking about braking so strong their trucks were doing front flips. my hump pack charger is on the way from towerhobbies (as is my 125ccOfna tank & HPI Wheelie Bar) and I'll check back in after that and probably again after I get around to the ofna linkage mod.

YeahYeah said:
Also, not to be a naysayer, but I think comparing the braking of a Savage to a Rustler is a bit unfair considering how much bigger the Savage is. And then comparing it to a TC3 Touring Car...well...I would hope the TC would brake better!

On a side note, and this may be a stupid question, but why is the fuel tubing on the linkage so much better than the spring? I mean, obviously the spring puts more give in the linkage, which the fuel tubing eliminates, but does it make that much difference? I already put the Ofna linkage on my truck, but I kept the spring on the linkage, should I just go ahead and put the fuel tubing on there? Thanks!
Click to expand...
 
Ok so I've put in the hump pack, cleaned the brake discs with motor spray and hello Front flips the braking is so strong now I had to dial it out thanks to all who offered assistance.

I picked up a HiTec MG645 for a steering servo replacement and RPM Center skid plate to try and keep the brakes clean.

The servo was definitely worth it not so sure about the center skid.
 
Awesome, good to see you got the brakes working. My 2 cents about the skid plate: good choice. It might be a little of a pain putting on and taking off, but I think its worth it. I went over a jump one time and landed a little crooked and ran right over a real jagged tree stump. Guaranteed at the very least those fiberglass brakes would have been shattered if I didnt have that skid plate on there, but it was, and no harm was done at all
 
I had the same problem with my brakes when I got it, they sucked!! I eventually did like what Whipnet suggested on pg. 1, upgraded the steering servo and put the steering servo for the throttle/brake, got a hump pack, did the Ofna throttle/brake upgrade, I upgraded to the Dual Disk Stainless Steel set (HPI # 87150, best 17 bucks ever spent) after smashing the heck out of those piece of crap red ones, and put on an RPM skid plate. Didn't have the opportunity to test each item individually after installation to see what I had gained, so I can't help you with one particular thing to solve your problem. But so far the whole combination has the brakes working flawlessly even in the snow.
 
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I've upgraded my steering servo and exchanged the throttle and stock steering servo. Also I bought an exhaust deflector to point blown out oil from hitting the brakes.
After adjusting the knob on the linkage it stops well, but I'm thinking it could use a bit more. Perhaps if I cleaned me rotors. I'll let you guys know.
 
stevrock said:
I've upgraded my steering servo and exchanged the throttle and stock steering servo. Also I bought an exhaust deflector to point blown out oil from hitting the brakes.
After adjusting the knob on the linkage it stops well, but I'm thinking it could use a bit more. Perhaps if I cleaned me rotors. I'll let you guys know.
Click to expand...

  1. did you swap the spring on the brake linkage for fuel tubing?
  2. try a little motor spray and a rag or a womans nail file the get the crud off the fiber pad's.
  3. Hump pack or fresh cells for your radio gear
 
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