With 47/16 gearing

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francis Labarbara

Well-Known Member
Messages
456
Location
West Virginia
My slipper clutch fails. I was breaking in an LRP zr.32 today and it started slipping again. It was set to tight less 1/4 turn. I have been unable to get it to stay since going to larger tires (Big Joes 2) and lower gearing.
I will scuff it but any other sugestions?
 
Well the larger tires are probably the biggest contributor to it happening, I run my slipper nut all the way tight and have not had a problem with it ever..... it may help to sand the glazing off the slipper pad, then just lock it down, it will still help protect the gears in the trans and diffs with it run down tight....
 
I'm curious to hear suggestions regarding this slipper issue.
Btw, how do you like the 47/16 in terms of bottom-end and top-end performance?
 
Well I personally am running 48/16 in mine now, top speed is good and bottom end is great, wheelies like mad....
my rig in the box o parts I received already had the RR 48 spur and a couple bells so I used what I had at hand when I built it up...... as for the slipper mine is all stock parts and like I said I run it locked down tight....
 
I will crank it down then. 47/16 was perfect with the K4.6 with the bigger tires. The LRP isnt broken in yet.

Has anyone scuffed the steel side?
 
I will crank it down then. 47/16 was perfect with the K4.6 with the bigger tires. The LRP isnt broken in yet.

Has anyone scuffed the steel side?
My slipper clutch kept getting loose also, and all I did was replace the flange locknut by the spring since these wear out everytime you tighten or loosen them. I just bought a couple from Home Depot which cost like $0.40. The size is M4 x 7mm

If you want original, here's from HPI website
http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/z684
 
I will crank it down then. 47/16 was perfect with the K4.6 with the bigger tires. The LRP isnt broken in yet.

Has anyone scuffed the steel side?

I tried with my LRP28, scuffing the pad a bit and the washer. Eventually (couple of tanks), it would still slip and melt the center out of it when it shifted into second gear. Once it slipped, bashing was done until I pulled it off and rescuffed it again. I gave up and went with a HPI steel spur. Without the steel spur, I couldn't go any higher than 15/49 or it would slip when it shifted into second with a fully compressed spring. Now I'm running 17/47 and probably will bump it up to 18/47 as with the tires I run, there's plenty of torque left to go higher and still pull wheelies.
 
Has anyone tried the RR Gen 3 slipper units for the Savage? I have it on my Revo (OS .21) and this thing is solid and holds pretty good.

I'm thinking of getting it for my Savage XL so I don't have to worry about slipper issues.
 
The grey slipper pad that came on the steel gear turned to goo. I replaced it with one of the green ones and it has held for 5 tanks. I had melted 2 spurs and went to steel already.
 
No this. It is an HPI steel spur. I had to use solvent to clean the slipper after it melted. It had gone everywhere. This grey pad was already on the gear when I recieved it.
iu
 
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No this. It is an HPI steel spur. I had to use solvent to clean the slipper after it melted. It had gone everywhere. This grey pad was already on the gear when I recieved it.
iu
Pretty sure that's not the same as my HPI steel spur. It used the same pad as the plastic spurs:
http://www.rcplanet.com/HPI_Heavy_D...f=4012460985&gclid=CL7339HHlskCFQiQaQodYXoEQg

Got a link for yours?

EDIT:
Found yours, it's for the octane.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEHGB&P=7
 
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I ordered a 47 tooth steel spur. Maybe they are all the same except for the pad. Mine looks the same on the front. It is the right thickness for the slipper.
 
Would anybody know if the Robinson Racing Gen 3 Slipper Unit (47t) is compatible with the HPI Vented Clutchbells?


Everything I read on Robinson Racings site suggests it works fine with any savage available....
 
Would anybody know if the Robinson Racing Gen 3 Slipper Unit (47t) is compatible with the HPI Vented Clutchbells?
Depends if it is the HD bell or not. I'm guessing the HPI HD bells are hardened as they list on their site with their HPI steel spurs that you need to use one of the HD bells.

If you run a non-hardened bell, it won't last long with a hardened steel spur. I have first hand experience with that.

2004-0921-TMaxx-ChewedCB02.jpg


Lasted about 2 tanks with an OS21RG in my t-maxx many years ago against a 1M tool steel spur from RC Solutions. Made for a pretty spark show though.

I'm currently running an HPI HD bell with the HPI steel spur in my savage and it seems to be holding up ok.

I guess I could be wrong, on HPI's site, they only say to use HPI bells with their steel spur and not one is an HD bell:
http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/77127

Now that I think on it, I think the above is an OFNA standard bell. I mean... it was 12 years ago... but I usually bought OFNA bells. The most recent one I bought was an HPI 17T, part #77107, so if that's what you have, then your probably ok.
 
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I checked them against the steel gear and not this one. The teeth on the HD bell seemed more square and didnt mesh as well. It could also just be the gear I got too.
 
Just looking at the photo with the two bells side by side, the 18T one doesn't have the beveling on the teeth that the 17T one does.
 

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