Will not shift into second gear

[tert]

My Savage 21 (old version I know ) has just stopped shifting into second gear. I worked fine until last week. It does get into second gear now and then and sometimes it jumps in between first and second gear (like it has a hard time to decide which gear to choose)

I have tried to adjust to shift at a lower RPM without any difference. Since it has worked fine before I assume something has broken inside the tranny.

What is the easiest way to take the tranny apart from an old Savage and what parts are likely the culprits?

Many thanks!

 

[mikelh]

I have the 4.6 and about every 3 gallons I have to replace the clutch holder/hub because of wear to keep it shifting. I assume the 21 Savage transmission is similar.

 

[tert]

Thanks for the reply.

Is it HPI 86368 you mean?

 

[mikelh]

Yep, and the hub is HPI 86369.

 

[Crimson Ghost]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HPi-87227-H...470886?hash=item41b967f026:g:obsAAOSwEzxYSGha

 

[tert]

Thanks!

Anyone who knows the easiest way to remove the gearbox from the older style Savage (without the easy access module)

 

[olds97_lss]

Easiest is to pick a side to take off completely. I think the pipe side is easier, once you remove the pipe to get at the screws behind it. You take the entire TVP off, then the screws for the trans on the other TVP as well as the two screws holding the trans to the engine plate from underneath.

Might be a good time to upgrade to the split case. I think it's a direct fit. $50 for a whole new trans: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-SPEED-TRA...430381?hash=item3aa7aff76d:g:IxYAAOSwPgxVLy~g

I think if it was the OWB in the trans, you wouldn't have first gear as it's locking until 2nd gear engages. Regardless, getting an entire new trans, then fix your old one for a spare wouldn't be an awful idea. I've never had an issue with a savage transmission except once when I left a screw inside it on accident while adjusting a 3-speed. That made a mess of a few gears, but in the 10+ years of bashing savages... that was my only trans failure. Diffs on the other hand... those were a pain until I went with BP's in the newer X style cases. When I had older savages, I replaced the stock diff gearbox halves with alloy, added the alloy diff cup and machined non-BP gears (was before those existed) to get diffs to last a season.

Sorry, kind of rambled.

 

[tert]

I do not understand this. In the exploded view it states 76924 but my gear is called 76929. Should I buy another 76929 or replace this with 76924 and a 86369 instead?

 

[Crimson Ghost]

HPI 87227 has all those parts in one kit.

 

[olds97_lss]

HPI 87227 has all those parts in one kit.

I forgot all about that upgrade.

 

[Crimson Ghost]

I just did it to both my Savages. HPI has already set the shift point. The instructions say don't adjust it. It seems a little early, but nice not to worry about it.

 

[olds97_lss]

Well, it's still adjustable. If it's too early, change it to your liking.

 

[tert]

Changed all the parts today but after I assembled everything I can move the rear wheels. The front wheels spins freely but the rear are pretty much stuck. It is almost like the rear diff is blown but this can`t be the case since it worked fine before I changed the parts in the gearbox.

What can cause this?

 

[olds97_lss]

Does the rear still diff? Like if you spin one tire, does the other spin in the opposite direction?

I can't think of a reason it would lock up just the rear. The center axle on the savage is solid, so if the rear was locked, the front would be too, if it were something binding.

 

[tert]

No, the rear does not diff but I can't understand that it could be the differential that is broken since it worked fine when I started to reassemble the gearbox.

Could it be anything else that I have assembled back in the wrong way when reassembling the gearbox and center driveshafts?

 

[olds97_lss]

The only thing I can think is that your trans is shifted back a bit for some reason causing the rear center dogbone to push the rear diff cup into the pinion/ring gear really badly. Perhaps take the rear assembly off and see how things spin without being on the truck? I know it's a pain, but not sure what could be going on without seeing it first hand.

 

[Crimson Ghost]

Did you have to remove the rear skid at all?

 

[tert]

Found the problem. I used to long screw under the skidplate so they actually hit the drivecups causing them to bind. Stupid mistake.

Thanks for your replies and Merry Christmas!

 

[Crimson Ghost]

Thats why I asked if you took off the skid. I have seen that happen

 

[olds97_lss]

Found the problem. I used to long screw under the skidplate so they actually hit the drivecups causing them to bind. Stupid mistake.

Thanks for your replies and Merry Christmas!

Ah, never did that before. I've done many other not so bright things... what screw was it? Been a while since I had a savage diff case/skid apart, so can't place a screw that if too long would hit the drive cups.

 

[Crimson Ghost]

I only did it when I used some upgraded screws that were a tad longer. It is the 2 center fine thread screws. They will thread in and touch the rear diff and bind due to being longer.