Trouble Turning

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savagecre

savagecre

Well-Known Member
Messages
392
Ive got the savage 25 limited edition 3 speed. The engine is tuned runnin real good pulling wheelies almost every time working the throttle just right. But watchingthe truck I notice the power I'm generating out lifts the front end up alot not giving me front end grab.( I now see how folish that big motor would be, lol.) The truck is stock on wide open throttle or even half throttle the truck is fast and I cant turn like i want has any one got Ideas......I do but some of you might have done somthing allready..... its got the dirt bones tires but the way the front of the truck lifts off the ground there's no traction......
 
Don't pull wheelies? Seriously though what steering servo are you running? does not steer when you go wot or not steer sitting still? Need more info to help you out.
 
Ive got the stock servo but the problem is the front of the truck lifts of the ground when I give it some gas and doing like a s pattern takes alot of room The wheels are turning but I'm not diggin in cuz there is no weight up there ( The torqe of the motor lifts the front of the truck up)
 
when the front is off the ground you are loosing steering? that sounds about correct. in mine i notice the steering isnt as good under acceleration.thats normal if the front is lifting. try stronger rear springs, or more shims in the rear shocks. the stronger springs might keep the rear from dropping as much. but it might make the wheelies worse. try to experiment with it a little.
 
yeah I was thinking stronger springs in the back to.
 
mine dose that too but since i put larger tires and wheels its not as bad as it used to be. it still dose it and wheelies badly.I'm running the sts .28 with a 3 speed. i also am using a 17/52 gear. DSCF000300.jpg
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all of my trucks with larger engines in them have the lifting problem. when the front wheels are off the ground it dosent matter what servo you have.one thing i found to help some was to tighten the spanner ring on the servo saver. the purple shaft on the steering has a nurled nut and a spring that controls the pressure applied to the servosaver.i had to locktight mine because it was backing off.once i did that it helped alot.
 
Man and here I was looking at a seriously big engine ( that was silly ) I was also thinkin of adding a little wieght up front with stronger springs all around also. Mainly because when approching a ramp i need control of the truck My servos seem to be fine for what I do i don't race pro or anything just bashin aroud but I can see that when I build my track I guess I'll be makin WIDE turns lol.
 
me either. i just bash. i would try diffrent spring combos.the larger wheels really helped me. we run in loose sugar sand and it really looses traction easialy.our field we run in is fairly large and its easy to do more sweeping turns. but on the perimiter of our "bash pit" is a oval kind of track. when i need to make a sharp turn I'm usally on the breaks so it turns fine then . it only gets squirly on throttle turns.sometimes if i let off the trigger some for a sec or so it lets the front drop enough to let the fronts steer some. when i run my sons pirate [stock .21 engine] i have to change my driving a little. I'm used to thinking ahead some with mine. with his it turns where it is told to and is pretty easy to drive. mine is easy to loose control, sometimes it fishtails like crazy til i let off and let it grab. sometimes it will wheelie all the way across the field, then flip when it hits third if i keep going.its all in learning the truck and what it needs to work.my 8 year old son is really good at driving,but he has to run a 1/2 tank in mine to learn what it needs to be controlable.he didnt like it at first and told me it was overpowered. but now he loves it now hes used to it. now he wants an sts for his truck. i
 
Sounds like you are getting used to the savage sir. I know what you are talking about. When you want it to dig in, and snap through a turn, it just lifts the weight off the opposite front wheel and slows down what you think would happen. Spring combos help but it still happends, especially if you are in loose terrain. Try putting a diff lock in the front. This will keep equal power to both front wheels, and help pull you through the corners. You won't get the sideways effect, but 4wd rc's seem immune to that. You should reinforce the diff at that time, so you don't have the diff prob's that some of us have had. Hope this helps dude.
 
how much is a difflocker like 50 or 60 bucks garagedoorguy?

hey jrstorm at least you have a boy Ive got girls and they think my truck is stupid I'm going to need to paint a body like (Barbie) or somthing lol
 
hey rick savage its not that the wheels are comin off the ground its the fact that the rear is over powerin the front....
 
now I'm lost? are you sure the fronts are getting power? you might be loosing the front end like i have had happen. do you ever hear a crunching sound? i loose power to the front when its under load but the front spin when its off the ground.
 
savagecre said:
hey rick savage its not that the wheels are comin off the ground its the fact that the rear is over powerin the front....
Click to expand...

I have never heard the rear overpowering the front, the tranny makes equal power to front and rear, if this is the case need to check your front diff, but even still I have ran just rear diff and my front actually turned better, and was able to fling it around in corners. I have the stock 25 motor with a port and polish and it will dip the rear end and pull wheelies but I can still turn when I want to but also have better than stock servo. Check your front steering parts, make sure none are binding up some of those parts have to be a tad loose for the sterring to work good.
 
Do you happen to a locker or spool in the rear diff ? That or locked up bevel gears is the only thing i can think of that would make the rear wheels over power the front wheels..... Rick
 
Savageacre, the diff locks are only about 20 bucks. You probably should put some more money into it to reinforce it though. A wheelie bar is a good idea but won't help you in this situation. What I have noticed with my savage, is when you throw it into a coner and get right on the power, the momentum takes most of the weight off the opposite front wheel and it breaks traction. The trans puts equal torq to both front and rea wheel, but you might notice that when the wheels are turning and you grab either on front, or one rear the other side spins twice as fast. I think the diff lock will help that other wheel dig in like it should. Hope this helps sir.
 
yeah see now when I say the rear is over powering the front I don't mean literally I mean traction . this is good the info I got will help.


this is the path that my truck would take with the wheels cranked to the right

xxxxxxx
x
x
x
x
x
by now Ive got to brake
x

x
thats how would turn its a huge sweep but I got to also
realize that this is just a model truck cuz a real 4x4 would not do that unless it was way over powered and not getting traction to the front but then again they also put the engine up front too... need more wieght up there
I'll get it.... thanks guys
 
hi, just of the topic but wots the 2 tanks all about??? just wonderin, better flow or performance?thanks matt :D
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DO NOT PUT A LOCKER IN THE FRONT! Instead try changing the diff fluid to no more then 300k (maybe start with 100k), you can lock the rear but you need to have some give in the front or you will break gears and will not be able to turn as tight with a locker in the front. Also while using a locker in the rear ONLY, you should avoid driving on hardball surfaces.....dirt only! For the wheelie problem there is 2 places to start...
#1: Try putting a higher gear ratio, less torque = less wheelies + higher top speed, don't go to high though as you will eat up the clutch very fast.
#2: Adjustable shocks, with the right settings you can get the chassis sitting lower to the ground which will improve handling tremendously. Adjustable shock towers are good too. Run a 15-20 Wt. shock fluid and use heavier springs if you want to jump, heavier shock fluid will cause the shafts to bend so change springs according to how & what you are driving on.

IMO start by changing the clutch bell/ spur gear combo, alot cheaper and will make a huge difference.

Savage Gear Chart:
savagegears.jpg
 
I thought it was just grease in the diffs? when I pulled the skid plat off when I got the truck to check things out there was grease in the diff. 95% of my driving is on Dirt or short grass...
 
DZ2 said:
DO NOT PUT A LOCKER IN THE FRONT! Instead try changing the diff fluid to no more then 300k (maybe start with 100k), you can lock the rear but you need to have some give in the front or you will break gears and will not be able to turn as tight with a locker in the front. Also while using a locker in the rear ONLY, you should avoid driving on hardball surfaces.....dirt only! For the wheelie problem there is 2 places to start...
#1: Try putting a higher gear ratio, less torque = less wheelies + higher top speed, don't go to high though as you will eat up the clutch very fast.
#2: Adjustable shocks, with the right settings you can get the chassis sitting lower to the ground which will improve handling tremendously. Adjustable shock towers are good too. Run a 15-20 Wt. shock fluid and use heavier springs if you want to jump, heavier shock fluid will cause the shafts to bend so change springs according to how & what you are driving on.

IMO start by changing the clutch bell/ spur gear combo, alot cheaper and will make a huge difference.

Savage Gear Chart:
savagegears.jpg
Click to expand...
That is why I told him to use that oppurtunity to reinforce the front diff. I do beg to differ with you on the tighter turning. I have first hand experience with locking the diff and it works fine.
 
I didn't see your post re: "to reinforce the front diff" when I posted, sorry. I too have first hand experience as well, wasn't just posting what I said having no experience and of course it will work fine............until something breaks because of it, I never said it wouldn't work. Try measuring the turning radius with and without the front locked, there is a difference in size (maybe it has something to do with your statement of the front end getting pushed around?) When steering, the front wheels will spin at different speeds (simple physics really) so with the front locked, both wheels will spin at the same rate which causes a lack of traction on the inner wheel meaning you are really only steering with 1 wheel while the other is just lifted and spinning. Ever look at the marks a 4 wheel drive leaves on concrete when all wheels are locked? Same principal and not recomended to do on a hard surface that doesn't allow any slip in traction. I do have both finals locked on 1 of my RC's and that 1 only gets driven in mud, sand, snow etc.
 
I was lead to believe that he is only running on dirt. I probably should have mentioned that on hard surfaces, it's probably not a good idea. I run in soft dirt, and it helped out alot. I wasn't testing your experience sir. As with you, we are all just trying to help and our personal experience is what we have to go on. I apologize for any misunderstanding, and we should try not to confuse him.
 
I agree it's so easy to get carried away with feeling challenged in forums and I didn't mean any disrespect to you or anyone else and their experience. He also mentioned doing "S" turns it go's pretty wide, try going with a different set of tires that don't baloon out as much as the stockers, tires make a big difference in handling as well.
 
thats pretty cool. iv never seen that on any forums.you guys have got class. this is the best forum i go on. i was really impressed. most of the forums everyone has an attitude and always trying to tell someone theyr wrong and argue all the time. i really like this forum because it seems we all get along and have good ideas about how to help someone instead of trying to argue all the time. just wanted to share and tell you guys you have my respect.
 
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