The Complete Beginners Guide To RC's

Jam Racing 1

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Airplane and surface engines are way different most of the plane engines do not get throttled like our car/truck engines do, if seeing bubbles in the fuel line it is telling you there is air getting in somewhere...
I know it is a bit of work but you will thank yourself after it is done.......
 

seeingeyegod

On a vacation
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59
I'm not really willing to take apart the entire engine but I am thinking I must have a leak in the carb. When priming I easily get fuel to the engine with no bubbles, but as soon as I actually try to start, a bunch of bubbles appear. I took the one hex screw out at the base of the carb which appears to be the only thing holding it in, but it didn't seem to want to budge. Maybe it is sealed/glued in? Perhaps it is my fuel inlet where I removed and replaced the needle which is leaking
 

Jam Racing 1

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4,790
I'm not really willing to take apart the entire engine but I am thinking I must have a leak in the carb. When priming I easily get fuel to the engine with no bubbles, but as soon as I actually try to start, a bunch of bubbles appear. I took the one hex screw out at the base of the carb which appears to be the only thing holding it in, but it didn't seem to want to budge. Maybe it is sealed/glued in? Perhaps it is my fuel inlet where I removed and replaced the needle which is leaking


It is not difficult to take it apart and clean, seal and put back together... as for the carb bolt you have to tap it with the nut still on too loosen it up for removal... it is on a taper and just takes a bit of finesse, the fuel barrel has 2 washers on it and if tight enough it should seal..., if you have had plane engines then this one outta be pretty easy....

you have to remember these :ercm: are mass produced in china and the tolerances do change from engine to engine.....
Go get some permatex o2 safe copper seal and a tube of green slime from the hobby shop, anyone who sells associated RC stuff outta have the green slime, just do it to save yourself a bunch of blisters and headache :DOH:
 

JVT73

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289
Location
Pennsylvania
I'm not really willing to take apart the entire engine but I am thinking I must have a leak in the carb. When priming I easily get fuel to the engine with no bubbles, but as soon as I actually try to start, a bunch of bubbles appear. I took the one hex screw out at the base of the carb which appears to be the only thing holding it in, but it didn't seem to want to budge. Maybe it is sealed/glued in? Perhaps it is my fuel inlet where I removed and replaced the needle which is leaking
Something sounds way wrong, pic's of your rig would be great. The pictures help other members with years of knowledge sort out your problems. No pic's leads to the question game...like are you running a primer bulb? No/yes? Are you running a inline fuel filter? No/yes? Air can be getting in from lots of places. Pictures save time and a million questions.
 

seeingeyegod

On a vacation
Messages
59
Something sounds way wrong, pic's of your rig would be great. The pictures help other members with years of knowledge sort out your problems. No pic's leads to the question game...like are you running a primer bulb? No/yes? Are you running a inline fuel filter? No/yes? Air can be getting in from lots of places. Pictures save time and a million questions.

Well I think I've now fixed the leak, I screwed my carb fuel inlet down more and they (bubbles) went away. I'm thinking my problem is inconsistent glow now. I'm using a D battery powered one and I realized it sometimes loses connection to the plug while I was testing it. When it moves around as I crank it's probably losing connection. No fuel filter, no primer bulb. I don't think pics would help really, I have nothing questionable to take a picture of. This is a brand new stock k4.6 on a brand new Savage X SS, it looks exactly like one of those. All the needles are at factory settings.
 

X

Conspiracy of One
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I'm thinking my problem is inconsistent glow now. I'm using a D battery powered one and I realized it sometimes loses connection to the plug while I was testing it. When it moves around as I crank it's probably losing connection.

I assume this is a glow plug igniter that you've had for a while? I find I need to clean the contact (portion that touches the glow plug) from time to time. I just use a q-tip.
 

JVT73

Well-Known Member
Messages
289
Location
Pennsylvania
Well I think I've now fixed the leak, I screwed my carb fuel inlet down more and they (bubbles) went away. I'm thinking my problem is inconsistent glow now. I'm using a D battery powered one and I realized it sometimes loses connection to the plug while I was testing it. When it moves around as I crank it's probably losing connection. No fuel filter, no primer bulb. I don't think pics would help really, I have nothing questionable to take a picture of. This is a brand new stock k4.6 on a brand new Savage X SS, it looks exactly like one of those. All the needles are at factory settings.
I'm still not understanding how air is getting from your carb and into the fuel line coming from your fuel tank? Unless it can flow in both direction at the same time. I'm thinking your new SS is doing the same thing mine did, which is as the clunk(stone) filter in the tank was agitated by vibration, little air bubbles would be released until it was completely saturated and like wise for my inline filter. Took about three tanks to clear up.
 

seeingeyegod

On a vacation
Messages
59
I'm still not understanding how air is getting from your carb and into the fuel line coming from your fuel tank? Unless it can flow in both direction at the same time. I'm thinking your new SS is doing the same thing mine did, which is as the clunk(stone) filter in the tank was agitated by vibration, little air bubbles would be released until it was completely saturated and like wise for my inline filter. Took about three tanks to clear up.

Pretty sure it was a leak between the needle valve base and the crankshaft. That alone might not have been the prob. Update though, i got her running! It was the glow igniter. Cleaned the contact and put in a new batt and got it got much brighter! Thanks for the suggestion from other poster. Ran a fyll tank at about half throttle. Startes getting a bit stronger by the end. Ran over some rough ground and it soaked the bumps up really well. Steering feels really nice also, good handling!
 

seeingeyegod

On a vacation
Messages
59
Okay so I'm an idiot, after saying how I'm gonna follow the manual instructions for break in, I just realized I read the instructions wrong. I thought it said run the 1st tank at 1/4 throttle, when really it said start at 1/4 throttle and run the first tank at idle! So now I'm afraid I screwed up the initial break in. so far I've run approx 3 tanks. 1 at partial idle and mostly 1/4 throttle with wheels off the ground, and 2 at mostly 50% throttle with periods of idle and some in between driving around in circles and figure 8s. I have adjusted the needle to be slightly leaner than factory (maybe 2/8ths of a turn in) because otherwise it would bog down and quit as I approached 50%, and acceleration/power overall was extremely weak (which is to be expect when super rich and new). The whole time I'm getting lots of smoke so obviously it's still quite rich. I'm thinking I should now just let it idle through an entire tank before putting it on it's wheels again and then probably do at least one more tank at less than 50%. I was at least able to do some short bursts of full throttle without it stalling near the end of the last tank.
 
Last edited:

Jam Racing 1

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4,790
I always do my breaking in running on the ground... having the wheels off the ground can stress the engine in my opinion....
I run a few tanks just messing around at part throttle and after I tune for running and get after it.......

So keep after it and it will come around, better to go slow and let the engine wear in a bit so it will last and run right....
 

Gavin

New Member
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3

You Just Bought Your HPI Savage…Now What!?



You finally got the HPI Savage you were eyeing for months now eh. Congratulations you have just done the hardest part, you have parted with a good chunk of change. There are things you should know before you even think about starting your truck. Your Savage is just like a real truck and things you know about full size trucks can be applicable on your Savage.

What You Need To Actually Run Your Truck - No BS

Kits that are marked RTR or Ready To Run are actually only assembled and rarely come with every thing you need.

What you need for the HPI Savage to get started



AA Battery’s - You will need these for your transmitter and for your battery pack. (Unless Your RC comes with a rechargeable battery pack.

Glow Starter - A glow starter is simply like a car cigarette lighter. It heats up the glow plug in your engine just like a spark plug. There are 2 types of glow starters, rechargeable ones and ones that uses regular batteries. I always recommend getting a rechargeable one because it last longer and is cheaper in the long run. A glow starter that uses regular batteries is not going to give you as much life as a rechargeable one.

Pullstart/Rotostart - You will not need to worry about this as all Savages come with a rotostart if your engine needs one. The purpose of a rotostart or a pullstart is simple, it spins the engine’s crankshaft, and in turn starts the motor.

Battery Pack - If your truck uses a rotostart you will need to get a 7.2 Volt Rechargeable Battery Pack for it. I highly recommend getting a NiMH battery pack. If you get the standard NiCad you have to charge it and fully drain it before you can charge it again. With NiMH you charge it, use it a little, and pop it back on the charger. NiMH will cost a little more but are worth it.

Chargers - You need to charge these batteries with something, and that’s what a charger is for. I will not talk about chargers because there are a million makes and models out there and they all have different features. My best advice for a charger is this, go to your Local Hobby Shop and see what they have, talk to someone and see what the best one is for you.

Fuel - Ah yes the most important thing, yet the most undervalued. Similar to chargers, there are lots of brands of fuel. I almost always recommend getting a 20% nitro content fuel. It’s pretty much idiot proof, because it gives your plenty of lubrication.


Things that are not a MUST have, but good to have



Tempgun - It helps you see if your engine is in the right temp range.

Fuel Bottle - Pretty self explanatory it’s hard to fill a 160cc tank with a monster gallon sized jug.

Fail-Safe - You will wish you bought one when you are staring down at your truck after it took off into 6 lanes of traffic. If a signal interferes with your truck it will take off, simple as that. You connect the fail safe to your throttle servo and set it to where you want it to go (Full Brake). So when a signal interferes with your truck it just stops, which is what you want.


Your Almost There!
  • You got everything you need but before you can run it here is a check list of things that need to be done.
  • Fully Charge All Battery Packs
  • Go Over Your Truck And Make Sure All The Screws Are Tight
  • Check Your Radio Equipment Make Sure All The Wires Are Connected
  • Make Sure Your Antenna Is Up


Testing 123

Alright before we go putting nitro in the tank let’s make sure our electronics work. Plug the battery pack in the radio box and install FRESH BATTERIES in your receiver. Turn on the transmitter first and then the truck. Pull the trigger back for throttle and push it forward for brake. Push the truck forward while braking to make sure it works. Next turn the wheel left and right for steering. It all works? Great let’s start it up!

Starting Your Engine

We are going to start the engine now but first you should elevate your truck so it is on a sturdy platform and its wheels are off the ground so they can spin freely. Fill your fuel bottle (I hope you got one) and then fill the tank. First we need to prime the engine, so with one finger cover the exhaust and spin the engine either with the rotostart or the pullstart. There are bubbles in the fuel line going to the engine, keep spinning the engine until there are no bubbles. Your engine is primed and ready to start! Snap the glow starter on and either spin the rotostart or pull the pullstart. If you are using a pullstart do quick short pulls. If you are using the roto start spin it for five seconds and wait for another five then spin for five more seconds until it starts.

How To Shut Off The Engine

Take your finger and plug the exhaust, simple as that.


Up And Running

It is running up on blocks now and your wondering “What do I do now”. Time to break it in. Grab your truck by the roll bar and set it on the ground, it may roll a little. If it wants to run away check the end of this tutorial to see how to fix this. How to properly break-in and engine is debated but I am explaining how to break in your engine the “Idiot Proof Way”. This break-in method has you go through 8 tanks of fuel.

Tanks 1-2 – Let your truck idle for these two tanks, meaning no throttle just let is sit and burn through 2 tanks.

Tanks 3-4 – Drive around in figure eights and loops at ¼ throttle for 2 more tanks.

Tanks 5-6 - Drive around in figure eights and loops at ½ throttle for 2 more tanks.

Tanks 7-8 - Full throttle baby! Gun it, vary the rpms back and forth. Your engine is now ready to run at full speed.


Note: This break-in method is for the stock HPI engines that come with your savage. If you are running an after market engine then ask around on the forum for the best break-in info.

HPI Savage Tuning



I am only going to briefly touch upon tuning because I could make an entirely different tutorial on it. Most likely you have 3 needles on your engine, a High Speed Needle, a Low Speed Needle, and an Idle Needle. Refer to your manual as to where each needle is.

High Speed Needle regulates how much fuel gets to the engine at high speeds.

Low Speed Needle regulates how much fuel gets to the engine at low speeds.

Idle Needle regulates how much fuel gets to the engine when there is no throttle a.k.a. neutral.

When you break it down like that it isn’t so overwhelming. You tune your truck by turning the needles. Turning a needle clockwise is known as Leaning It Out (Less Fuel). Turning a needle counter-clockwise is known as Richening It or Fattening It (More Fuel). Here are the basics.

If your truck shuts off when you apply the brakes- Lean the idle needle out 1/8 of a turn. If it still stalls do another 1/8 turn and so on.

If your trucks rolls on the ground without you touching the throttle- Richen the idle 1/8 of a turn until it stays put on the ground.

My truck won’t hit second gear- Lean the high speed needle out 1/8 of a turn and so on.

You should only have to touch the idle now and again but not much. I don’t recommend touching the low end until you are very familiar with tuning. The high speed needle will be the needle that you will spend the most time with. If you lean the high speed needle out you will notice a performance gain. DO NOT LEAN THE HIGH SPEED NEEDLE OUT TOO MUCH! How much is too much? 6 full turns is too much. When you accelerate you should see a thick stream of smoke coming from the exhaust, if you are not seeing smoke it is too lean. Immediately richen the engine. While your truck is at an idle you should be able to feel a "mist" of exhaust. When tuning it is important to take it slow and go in 1/8 increments. Tuning should be easier if you just remember what each needle does. The best way to get better at tuning is to practice over and over. The hardest part for me was learning to tune an engine, it just takes practice.



I hope this tutorial helped. You can’t really cover everything in one tutorial and the best way to learn is going out there and practicing, not just with tuning but with everything RC. It is a great hobby if you are patient and stick with it. Good luck, and always remember to have fun, it’s a hobby after all.


Credits-

-Hop for having an awesome site
-All the moderators at HPISF for being awesome
-All the HPISF members for contributing to the site
-Microsoft Word For Inventing Spell Check!
Hi

I have just purchased my Savage x 4.6. I have run it in and I am now tuning. I cant get it to do wheelies and wondered if it was stuck in second gear. You said I could lean out the HSN which will help in it changing gear. I have turned the HSN almost 1 1/2 turns. This is the maximum the instruction manual says. In your post it says a maximum of 6 full turns.

How would check which gear it is in. Is there a physical way off checking?

When I went to adjust the LSN to get better acceleration I only turned it 1/4 turn. It started running poorly and cutting out. I reset this and it started running well.

Last think. Would you recommend an engine heater. It is a bugger to start in this cold weather.

Gavin
 

Goose1072

Active Member
Messages
70
Location
NYC
Hi

I have just purchased my Savage x 4.6. I have run it in and I am now tuning. I cant get it to do wheelies and wondered if it was stuck in second gear. You said I could lean out the HSN which will help in it changing gear. I have turned the HSN almost 1 1/2 turns. This is the maximum the instruction manual says. In your post it says a maximum of 6 full turns.

How would check which gear it is in. Is there a physical way off checking?

When I went to adjust the LSN to get better acceleration I only turned it 1/4 turn. It started running poorly and cutting out. I reset this and it started running well.

Last think. Would you recommend an engine heater. It is a bugger to start in this cold weather.

Gavin
Is the truck brand new out of the box? you need to do the break in on the engine if it is new. Takes about 10 tanks or so and then you will start to see a difference in the truck.
 

Gavin

New Member
Messages
3
Ok Thanks. I have done about six tanks. First 2 at idle next two half throttle. And the last two pretty much go.for it whilst tuning.
 

pt01

New Member
Messages
4
Hi, great short tutorial. My question now is this: My Savage X has been standing idle for 9-10 years or so. Is it necessary to do a break-in over again or is it something else I should be aware of when starting up the engine again? Thanks in advance, Peter.
 

Goose1072

Active Member
Messages
70
Location
NYC
Hi, great short tutorial. My question now is this: My Savage X has been standing idle for 9-10 years or so. Is it necessary to do a break-in over again or is it something else I should be aware of when starting up the engine again? Thanks in advance, Peter.
I would do a tank or two for re-break in, I hope the engine was oiled with after run.
You might have gunk and will need to clean everything.
 

pt01

New Member
Messages
4
I would do a tank or two for re-break in, I hope the engine was oiled with after run.
You might have gunk and will need to clean everything.
My knowledge was limited back then and I lost interest in the hobby, so I did not oil the engine with after run. I've already cleaned the tank for old nitro fuel. Is it bad to start it up if theres gunk in the system, or do you recommend cleaning the engine anyway? If so, how to clean and what solution is recommended? Thanks for the help!
 

Goose1072

Active Member
Messages
70
Location
NYC
I would look inside the engine before starting it up, you can snap the piston rod if it's bad. If it's really dirty use some after run oil to clean it out, you can do WD40 if you don't have any after run oil.
 

pt01

New Member
Messages
4
I would look inside the engine before starting it up, you can snap the piston rod if it's bad. If it's really dirty use some after run oil to clean it out, you can do WD40 if you don't have any after run oil.
Thanks, really appreciate the help. WD40 I do have :)
 

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