Suspension Conversion Kit - I HATE IT

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tradami

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29
I absolutely hate my suspension conversion kit.

My dogbones always fall out anytime I hit something or have a hard landing or sometimes even just turn. I have almost no suspension in the front because I have to have it sit so low so the aluminum piece the tie rod attaches to doesn't hit the suspension arm (even with it dremeled).

Any suggestions? Everyone say's it's awesome, but for some reason, I can't get it to work for me.
 
Hey there welcome to the forum. Do you have the o-rings inside the drive cups to take up the slack in the dogbones? Can you take a couple pics of your setup? Lots of people will chime in here and I'm sure we can get fixed up.
 
Hey there welcome to the forum. Do you have the o-rings inside the drive cups to take up the slack in the dogbones? Can you take a couple pics of your setup? Lots of people will chime in here and I'm sure we can get fixed up.

+2 We can help you out and welcome to the forum.
 
welcome trad, can you post some pics so we can get to work on helpin' you fix it?



:slayer:
 
yep, lets see it ... Also it a race type mod. Its not meant to have the thing sitting in the nose bleed section ..
 
Now this just put a hold on my project. I do know this after trolling the forum for a couple of days. If these guys can't fix it. Nobody can. Your in good hands with HPISF. Ok so it's a ripoff from the insurance company.
 
Wow! Thanks for all the fast replies guys! And I appreciate the welcomes!

I'm going to post some pictures tomorrow. It's a bit late tonight. :)

I've dremeled part of the suspension arm off to make room for it to turn easily. The idiot who installed this also didn't do it correctly on one side so the front left tire wasnt balanced at all.

I am getting HPI big bores on Paycheck Friday along with a new, 333oz torque servo from Hitec.

I'm not sure which of these to get.

http://www.hitecrcd.com/products/servos/digital/digital-sport/hs-5755mg.html

http://www.hitecrcd.com/products/servos/digital/digital-sport/hs-5805mg.html

They're both very similar I think. Which would you recommend? They're about the same price, also.

If anyone has instructions for this that I could some how get that would be awesome. I've looked all over HPI's website and can't find it.
 
well i do believe i could be wrong but the 5755 is for 5th scale stuff and i don't think will fit in the savage radio box. so i would go with the second one the 5805.
 
first person i have seen posting about hating the RSC Conversion... something is obviosuly wrong.

If you want a hitec power servo.. look at the 7955
 
first person i have seen posting about hating the RSC Conversion... something is obviosuly wrong.

If you want a hitec power servo.. look at the 7955

The problem I have with that servo is it is $30 more. I don't have the tool for programming it either (is that necessary?). However, if the other one's wont fit (I hadn't gotten to measuring sizes yet) then I suppose I'll have to get this one. I do really like this one so it might be worth the $100. I also might be able to get it cheaper on eBay. I'll look into it.

And Tominator, thank you VERY much! I will be looking at it shortly!
 
Thank you again!!

I will be going over these instructions once they're done downloading and making sure they were installed correctly.

Improper installment could be a major reason I hate them! Haha
 
I read it over. The only thing i noticed was he installed a small bit incorrectly. The bushing or whatever you want to call it that you put into the front that you tighten down from the bottom up that allows the front wheel to turn freely was installed backwards so the wheel was hard to turn when tightened down all the way. He had also not used lock-tite so I bought some at my hardware store (along with one of the screws I found to be missing) and installed it all correctly! Now I just need to wait for my paycheck, and hopefully my LHS will have the servo i need, else I'm going to have to wait for it to be shipped.

I've also looked over all of the screws and made sure they were tight. I took off the engine, checked o-rings and such, they seem fine. Could probably use some green slime though because my needles are difficult to turn. I then locktited the engine down. Both to the mount and the chassis.

Anything else I've missed that I should check?

He also completely grinded off the steering stops so I added an extra O-ring ( there is one at each end of the dog bone) and now all the slack is gone, so hopefully this will help me.
 
Also, my wheel nuts keep coming loose no matter how hard I tighten them. Are they okay to lock tite?
 
I've dremeled part of the suspension arm off to make room for it to turn easily. The idiot who installed this also didn't do it correctly on one side so the front left tire wasnt balanced at all.

If you go too far on this "mod" (cutting it for more turn ) the bones will always fall out no matter how we help you .. If you got version 1 and cut that forget it all together only V2 can take this mod. (I have not seen V2 also) I have 3 V1's. Really need pics now...

Also, my wheel nuts keep coming loose no matter how hard I tighten them. Are they okay to lock tite?
They are nyloc and warn out. .99 cents on ebay for new ones
 
Last edited by a moderator:
yes you can loctite your wheel nuts...

why not just set your end point adjustments on your transmitter so you get maximum turn before your dog bones pop out?
 
Just be careful there is no binding due to having the extra o-ring in there. The stops being ground all the way off may be the problem if the knuckle can turn too far the outer dog bone can still pop out even with o-rings. I have had similar problems. I would get a new set of wheel nuts as the nylon used to keep the tight wears down after you take the off and on a few times.
 
Just be careful there is no binding due to having the extra o-ring in there. The stops being ground all the way off may be the problem if the knuckle can turn too far the outer dog bone can still pop out even with o-rings. I have had similar problems. I would get a new set of wheel nuts as the nylon used to keep the tight wears down after you take the off and on a few times.

It seems to turn just fine from what I can see. I believe that the reason the dogbones keep popping out is because the steering stops have been ground down so much. :( I'll have to buy new ones if I keep having this problem.

As for the nuts, they haven't been taken on or off that much. =/

If you go too far on this "mod" (cutting it for more turn ) the bones will always fall out no matter how we help you .. If you got version 1 and cut that forget it all together only V2 can take this mod. (I have not seen V2 also) I have 3 V1's. Really need pics now...


They are nyloc and warn out. .99 cents on ebay for new ones

I'll take pictures today.

yes you can loctite your wheel nuts...

why not just set your end point adjustments on your transmitter so you get maximum turn before your dog bones pop out?

I don't have an HPI radio system yet.
 
you do not need an HPI Radio system... most 2.4GHZ radio system.. even the one i have which cost me $50 allows me to set my EPA... i have the same problem as you too with my dog bones popping out, but since i set my end points on the servo, it allows me to set maximum turn before allowing the dog bones to pop out.

Definitely invest in a better radio so yu can then get better range and better flexibility! your problem isnt a big one, and can be solved without any o rings and such... I found that o rings just cause binding in my truck. So the radio was the only way for me
 
you do not need an HPI Radio system... most 2.4GHZ radio system.. even the one i have which cost me $50 allows me to set my EPA... i have the same problem as you too with my dog bones popping out, but since i set my end points on the servo, it allows me to set maximum turn before allowing the dog bones to pop out.

Definitely invest in a better radio so yu can then get better range and better flexibility! your problem isnt a big one, and can be solved without any o rings and such... I found that o rings just cause binding in my truck. So the radio was the only way for me

Even by setting endpoints for the servo, it doesn't help me when I hit something and it flexes and turns past the specified turning point. I think I have it set up nicely where it will be alright. I'm really hoping my LHS will have a good servo in stock. I have two LHS's I can check. If not, I have to wait til' next week!


List of things to buy:

1)Steering servo
2) Radio


I was hoping to get a good servo for around $70 but that's out of the question. Servo = $100

2.4ghz radio =~$40.

We'll see tonight. I'll post pics once I get home from work.
 
well i don't have the problem of hitting something and popping a dog bone. I only usually pop a dog bone if, I'm going in reverse for some reason but never on big hits or anything like that.

Gd luck with it though, and you will most probably find that setting your EPA on your new radio will solve your problem
 
Well, I might not be getting a radio this week. $120 for this servo. I missed out on the $65 sale on eBay. =( Now I'm paying about twice as much. But on the plus side, I don't have to wait for it to be shipped.

Depending on how much my check is, I might be able to get the 2.4. I'm not sure yet.

Pictures soon.
 
Even by setting endpoints for the servo, it doesn't help me when I hit something and it flexes and turns past the specified turning point.

You are correct end points wont fix this issue if its mechanical stop is gone .. If you lock down the servo savor to help (only option) you will take out servos. Not worth it, Don't try it ..
 

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