spur gear issues

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djdragger

Member
Messages
5
Location
Milwaukee, WI
I just installed the dynamite 427 (gold head) in my savage (first gen) and I've gone through 5 spur gears they work long enough for me to do a wheelie then game over......stripped......i was thinkin of goin to the robinson racing steel combo (48t spur 16t bell) but i've heard with that may put too muchg stress on the stock trans. Anybody have any ideas???? It's very irratating!
 
I hear ya on the irratation factor, bud. In order for someone to give you a reasonably good info you can use at the time you really need it, they'll need to get a more detailed account of your problems and conditions. Are you driving alot on grass or sand? What size spur? What size CB(clutch bell) are you now using? Are you new at this truck? Beware of an impulsive desire to go all metal. Your gear mesh should fit like a glove, and then adjust back out, a hair. There should be no resistsance in the lash, other than the the load on the CB's actual wieght in mass. Locktite your engine mount bolts and TIGHTEN well. Re-confirm your mesh didn't move after tightenning the bolts. Now...if your mesh is correct, then the main cause in stripping out your spurs would be likely due to the terain your driving in. Driving through long stretches of grass, mounded sand, loose soil, and up hill slippage can all play a part in melting, and stripping at the spur teeth generated at the CB. How worn do you think your CB clutches are? Is there any indication that you spur hub has melted some? Were willing to help, bro. The more details you can share, the better we can put the puzzle together. Ok? Ask anyone here, I had my share of irrataion with spurs to know I have an opinion or two on them. If you've landed any big jumps, ya might check your motor plate for a crack or two. Details will help narrow down the troubleshooting, know what I'm saying, djdrager?
 
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c the thing is is that I don't even get a chance to get off the concrete and I've tried every way of meshing the gears and all sizes of gears (47,49,52) and nothing seemed to work for more than 4 minutes......The bell housing gear is a 14t and it is original and it is pretty worn but still looks very usable and the clutch shoes have never been replaced but they are still in pretty good shape....the one thing that I always seem to have an issue with though is how tight to go on the nut that holds the spur gear on.....so after all that I did purchase the robinson racing setup (sale at my hobby store only $25) but it is not installed yet. So hopfully i've given you enough here so you are able to help. O and I've owned the truck for I believe 2 1/2 years....I got it just after the first savage came out.
 
I recieved an e-mail that didn't get posted here. From what I gathered, the suspect that stands out is the worn 14 T CB you mentioned. If you know how to get a propper mesh like you've stated, I consider trying standard HPI 17T w/ 47 CB and dump the 14T for now.
 
If your at the point of no success with the whole slipper issue, can you take some pics of the worn and damaged parts? If your not sure how tight to tighten the slipper, take note that the correct tightness is fully tightened all the way and then back off 1/4 turn. Over tightenning it can angle the spur off square and cause bad ware on the spur which can lead to stripping, over-compressed spring, a walking input shaft nut, and even thread damage if REALLY over-tightened. Check and see if the input shaft is straight and true. At this stage, I took matters in my own hands and went for a directdrive setup, saying goodbye to the slipper system for good. This move doesn't fix meshing issues, though. Hang in there and keep us posted, djdrager.
 
check your clutch it could be worn, also make your slipper clutch isn't too loose, both will cause excess heat, make your your motor mount is not cracked, and your motor plate isn't tweaked, KEEP US POSTED BRO !
 
OK... The more I think on it, the more I know your tempted to go ahead and slip on that robinson's steel combo. That means CB and spur gear are steel, rather than wait for the right spur and clutch bell sizes to come in, right? I reccommend you wait. Once we know the stripping issue has been resolved, we can then deside to check out other options. Be advised that propper gear mesh on a steel combo is critical. I'm almost willing to bet that the 14t cb is the issue here. The 13t, and 14t can easily be meshed too tightly because of their reduced diameter compared to the larger cb's.
 
You know on my savy the screws that hold the engine plate come loose and back out even with thread lock, what happens is stripped spur, check your screws.
 
Yep....If that's the case, remove bolts, sprayout holes with nitro cleaner, let dry, Use red lock-tite on the bolts and reinstall in their holes. Good tip, Windjamer.
 
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Alright guys I am going to replace all the motor mount bolts cuz they are all getin pretty worn out form all the on and off again ive been doin with the engine the next step would be to get just a regular hpi 17t cb and a 47 tooth spur?? O and I'm a dumbass i completley forgot to mention that I'm running stock t-maxx rims and tires which are smaller of course so idk if you guys think i should try a different gear ratio then er not?? Another thing is I would like to replace the clutch shoes on there should I bump up to a 3 shoe set up er just buy some new hpi ones?? I think thats about it sorry for the long deley on the answer i was busy workin.
 
i am pretty sure most of us use the 3 shoe set up i would say go ahead and change it out but thats just what i think
 
Well alright, djdrager. It's beginning to look like were on the right track here with your strippage conserns...ah? Just out of curiousity, your not pulling the motor plate everytime you pull the engine, are ya? If so...leave the motor plate installed. From now on, only use the four bolts that go in to the motor mount, under the motor plate, to remove the engine. Remember that the bolts that go in the sides of the plate use Red Lock-tite and for the motor mount bolts, use Blue thread-lock. If either of these bolts get stuck when you want to remove, use a bic lighter or soldering tip to heat up the heads of the bolts to release the thread lock. And yes, as I suggested, a 17/47 combo is a good starting point for gearing. It's the stock set up that comes with the SS 4.6 kit and gives a great balance of wheelie pop'in low end with good top speed numbers. and by the way,.... If your smart enough to ask for help when you need it, that means your not a dumbass..ok. Just for good measure, I would tighten all the TVP BOLTS AND SCREWS to help insure that the chassis doesn't flex. Use lock-tite on all metal to metal chassis bolts and make sure that you clean out the holes first with nitro cleaner before using the thread compounds...Keep us posted, bro
 
Thanks for the tips. I was only removing the four bottom bolts from the under side of the engine mount. I'll go through the whole truck hopfully sometime this weekend and make sure everything is tight...cuz I'm sure i'll find a few stripped screws and if my local hobby store didnt keep freaking bank like hours i'd go get the parts tonight but yea...not in a very RC based area anyway thanks again I'll post somethin else when i get the truck all put back together.
 
Thanks Crash...I just hope we nailled it down for him. And hey,.No problem, djdrager..I don't think all have much more to add, if this doesn't "git'ter done" so to speak.
 
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ok guys finally got time to work on the truck I went around and tightened and thread locked all the screws and bought a new motor mount cuz mine was stripped and I went with a 13 bell and a 49 spur (kinda all my hobby store had in stock lol) and I had a freind of mine mesh it and low and behold it worked.....the only problem is that I'm up to RPM so fast I'm afraid the truck is gonna blow. do you think thats caused by the size gear set up I have? should I go to a 52 t or a 47t???? any help would be appreciated.............thanks for all the help up till now at least it's runnin just gotta get all the bugs worked out!
 
Wow... I'm glad and supprised to hear that the different clutch/spur combo your using worked out, up to this point, djdrager. I certaintly can't blame you for getting whatever CB & spur the LHS had. Did you notice any difference in the way your buddy meshed up the spur compared to your way? IF so,..try for that same feel that he set it at, for a refference in your minds eye. And by the way, good Job, DJ. Now,...The first thing you'll probably want to do is, get down to the LHS and order the CB/Spur combo's that are COOL. Pardon my humor DJ, but with the gearing you have now, and those T-maxx rims & tires, you can probably do laps in third gear around my toaster, right?...lol. Order a 17/47 for sure. A 18/49 or 19/52 combos will give you more gearing options...A 16t CB is a secret weapon for super tourqe. When you bought you new CB, did it come with a gear ratio chart?...If not, there's one here at HPISF that you can see. Give it a good once or twice over, DJ. It will help you see the gear power to tourqe sinario's more clearly. You'll notice that these gears have some interchangabillity. You can experiment with them for different proformance applications. Also, you may notice that the little Savster tends to wind up too much and doesn't like to shift with the 13 or 14T CB's. This is because the truck comes with the tranny's shift points favoring the standard gear ratio's and sould be re-adjusted to conform to a quicker shift points, if your going to continue using the 13 or 14 CB. I consider these CB's as "Special Application CB's" and rarely ever use them. Although, they do have a purpose. They are best used for short tracks with many turns or for a bigA$$ tires. You'll need in tons of tourqe for over-sized treads. That doesn't mean you shouldn't give them a run, just be aware of their strong points, like all the gears share. Keep us posted on the Spur/CB change and what your thoughts are, DJ.
 
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HOW the Spur Gear and the Bell Gear work

You divide the spur gear, into the bell gear like this, 52 Divide by 13 = 4 turns for the Bell gear and 1 for the Spur

52/13= 4 Low End Power / Hill Climbing

52/15= 3.46

52/18= 2.88

49/13= 3.76

49/15= 3.26


49/18= 2.72

47/13= 3.61

47/15= 3.13

47/18= 2.61 Top End Power / SPEED

Robinson racing Comb 48/16 = 3

ALL THESE COMBOS DO NOT WORK ON SAVAGE, MOST DO. I'm RUNNING A 52/13 CRAZY WHEELIES, I ADJUSTED TRANSMISSION TO SHIFT DURING A WHEELIE MAKEING A 300-400 feet WHEELIE NO PROBLEM, THANKS TO MY OL' PICCO .26 OUTLAW AND HOME MADE WHEELIE BAR
DOOBEE, BROUGHT BACK AVATAR .......................................
IMG_0615.JPG
 
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There we go,.... some supplemental A$$istance...lol. Hey crash... After a closer look at the avatar, I would like you to start a thread with the largest pic size of your avatar and then get a hold of Komodo. Ask him if he thinks the avatar is real or fake. He should get a rise out of that one. I myself, think it's a fake, but crazier things have happened. I just cant see a guy spending a great percentage of his life, in the pursuit of, cramming his head up his A$$. Can you?......lol I think it belongs in "Hop Ups"....lol.
 

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