Spur Gear Issue Making Me Regret Buying Savage

[Beanster]

I'm going to repost my original question...

I've had my Savage SS for 2 months. Since then, its been through 7 spur gears. I've only gone through 4 tanks (after the break in). This gives me an average of 1/2 tank per spur gear. I bought a dozen spur gears figuring I'd get it right one day. I've read every post and tried every technique to get the mesh and alignment perfect. Each time, I get the exact same same melted gear. Seriously, I have 7 SG's in front of me that look exactly like the OP's.

Last night, I was running with the same old 17/47. It was 82 degrees out side and I was running slightly rich. The surface was my black top driveway. About 8 to 10 minutes of running and I accidently drove into the grass. In an instant, the SG was gone.

My thought is that the gear is getting so hot that its at the threshold of breaking/melting and the extra torque needed to get through the small patch of grass just put it over the limits.

According to HPI, 17/47 is fine for on road use. Apparently not. So what is the answer? A metal spur gear? New clutch shoes? If so, can any one comment as to exactly which one (which clutch shoe or spur gear) they recommend?

What I really need is a solid answer as to which clutch bell and clutch shoes I should go with. I was going to just buy Integy stuff but their website sucks and I've read nothing but bad reviews about their parts.

There are so many aftermarket part companies out there and there's no way to figure out which one is best. I just need a suggestion for a reasonably priced clutch solution.

 

[texasavage]

There is nothing wrong with the spur gear you are running. If you do go to a metal spur gear then you will tear up more expensive things and you'll be even more upset, like clutch bell(about $15-20), tranny($80ish for 3 spd) compared to a $5 plastic spur gear.

Is the gear too tight? you should have a nudge of play of you are holding the spur gear and the clutch bell, but still spin freely

Is the clutch bell is getting too hot? I dunno maybe a bad bearing or clutch?

Is your slipper cranked down all the way? maybe give it a 1/4 back?

I've only had to replace about 3-4 spur gears on my .25 since 2003 so my experiance isn't all that. Just wanted to throw some things out there, I'm sure the guru's will chime in here shortly.

Just don't loose faith!!!! HPISF will get you figured out bud

 

[Purenitro]

Do you have some pics (bigger)? what is melting? if you hold all four tires on the ground can you spin the spur with a bit of pressure? are you running the stock composite shoes? There are lots of things that can lead to failure but we need more info.

 

[maximusraylius]

as nitro said we need more info on what your running shoes clutch bell ect but I'm asumeing its new rtr so 17 solid cb and 47 spur.. it looks like its melting witch is caused by heat from the clutch bell .. not spur slipping ..

spur slipping causes the back side to melt and gags the slipper pad soooo I'm going to say its heat from cb slipping...


this might be a thought are your breaks really tight? will the truck roll freely when you have the truck on and throtle in nuetral position? if theres any resistance when you push the truck by hand your breaks are set up a bit to tight .. try pushing it by hand with throtle fully pulled .(truck not running of course) and see if the truck rolls freely..


good luck .. theres tons of reasons that cause it to do that but thats just a couple thoughts ...

 

[soulja]

i agree with the above and let me add this......is your clutchbell touching the spur? look at the CB and see if it is discolored on the outer tip with the gear directly in front of you. I have seen guys shims the CB on the inside and it contacts the spur. just another thought. it also like max says sounds like the brakes may be dragging or something is in a bind. are the wheels too tight? if it is the Xcase.... is the top screwed down all the way? cant really see the pics......but looks like the mesh is not right. if you are jumping...make sure the slipper is a lil loose so things like that won't happen. make sure the engine screws aren't stripped in the mount and they are tight. just some thoughts.........

 

[frddyj]

I'm going to repost my original question...



What I really need is a solid answer as to which clutch bell and clutch shoes I should go with. I was going to just buy Integy stuff but their website sucks and I've read nothing but bad reviews about their parts.

There are so many aftermarket part companies out there and there's no way to figure out which one is best. I just need a suggestion for a reasonably priced clutch solution.

to your question- i say go with hpi caz, in my experience with their products are second to none in quality.

i vote that your mesh is too tight vs. the spur melting only because i can see a ring in the part of the spur where the teeth arent being eaten by the c/b teeth but falls into that groove between the teeth & the area over the shoes.

see how your spur is damaged similar to sky4max's https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10457&highlight=mesh



if you want to repair that situation on the cheap, then get another stock spur, & stock clutch shoes & get the mesh rite & put a lil blue loctite on the mill mount screws & get them tight.

If you want to upgrade, get the hpi steel spur http://cgi.ebay.com/HPI-Savage-X-SS-4-6-Slipper-Clutch-47T-Metal-Spur-Gear_W0QQitemZ330343091999QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio_Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4ce9fb8f1f&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A1|39%3A1|72%3A1205|293%3A1|294%3A25

with a steel spur you will need a racing clutch bell like this http://cgi.ebay.com/HPI-77107-VENTED-RACING-CLUTCH-BELL-17T-SAVAGE-X-XL_W0QQitemZ220383408824QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio_Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item334fdff2b8&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A1|39%3A1|72%3A1205|293%3A1|294%3A25

above all else, make sure your gear mesh is rite http://www.hpiracing.com/kitupdates/858.html

 

[AZN dubs]

not even going to read the first post.. I'm just going to say, just learn to get the mesh right. as soon as thats good, you shouldn't go through any more spurs. and also make sure you are using a clutch bell/ spur gear combination that actually works, some won't work..

use the paper trick. fold a thing strip of paper in half, and stick it between the CB and spur, push the engine all the way over towards the CB, tighten screws down, then just feel the mesh, if you can hold the CB, and there is NO play on the spur, then its too tight, so just loosen it up a bit. if you can move it a lot, then its too loose, move it closer to the CB. you should only get a little bit of play between the 2.

 

[Mickey]

I'm running a 47 tooth steel spur by GH, a hpi 18 tooth vented clutch bell and integyclutch shoes and the combo works great for me with proper mesh.

 

[Bankrupter]

I run both plastic and HD set ups w/o issues. THe HD is more forgiving to a bad mesh but if you get it right and don't over heat the clutch plastic will hold fine. As far as the HD taking out other stuff its pure BS... I have blown trannys with plastic spurs as well as Purnitro. It's is not a weak link as people say ... Only weak link the savage has is how you set your slipper cluch. Work on your mesh. it will solve your issues

 

[ikesavage]

I am running 17T racing CB 47T steel Spur gear set and aluminium shoes and never had 1 issue. your gear mesh has to be way off I had a t-maxx and did the samething and thats what the problem was. Hope this helps.

 

[Beanster]

Thanks for all of the replies. I want to clarify some things. I have tried every technique possible to get the mesh right. I've tried the paper trick (twice), I've tried it loose, tight, and several places in between. I've also checked the motor mount for cracks and other issues. The mount screws are all attached with Loctite.

The clutch bell is over-heating. That is 100% certain. I can tell because the outside of the bell is discolored (a dull dark gray) and the clutch bell bearings are blue... yes BLUE. The clutch shoes are not engaging and the causing too much heat thereby melting the SG.

HPI agreed to send replacement clutch shoes (carbon). But they haven't come in. I've lost half of the summer, which has had excellent RC weather so far here in northern Maryland, with no truck to drive. I should of bought a Jato like my friend. He's had zero issues and he runs it hard and wreckless.

So getting back to my dilemma... I'm convinced the clutch bell and shoes should be replaced but again, I have no idea what company makes reliable parts. Apparently, Integy is not the best place to go.

So please guys, make some suggestions as to what company makes a decent and affordable part. I'm willing to drop another chunk of change into my $700 money pit. But this has got to be it or its heading for Ebay.

Thanks!

 

[Shaun]

most here use the nova clutch shoes with the mugen 1.0 springs i believe..

 

[Purenitro]

most here use the nova clutch shoes with the mugen 1.0 springs i believe..

That's a great setup for shoes, should solve all your issues.

 

[texasavage]

As far as the HD taking out other stuff its pure BS... I have blown trannys with plastic spurs as well as Purnitro. It's is not a weak link as people say ...

Good to know. I was going off of what I've read. My troubleshooting is not that great.
I'm just glad the rest of you chimed in

Only weak link the savage has is how you set your slipper cluch.

If the slipper is too tight then it will tear other things up? tight then 1-4 turn back right?

 

[Shaun]

yes thats about right for the spur gear!!

 

[Beanster]

most here use the nova clutch shoes with the mugen 1.0 springs i believe..

Ok. Great, finally some direction.
Now... where are these things available?

Can you tell I'm new? Actually, I'm not. I'm trying to return to the hobby after a 12 year break. Ahh... the good old days of Kyosho Outlaw Rampage, Tamiya Grasshopper, Kyosho Inferno, and more.

 

[texasavage]

yes thats about right for the spur gear!!

ahhh, gotcha. Guess I must of read wrong previously.

Thanks
Tobias

 

[ikesavage]

Check your slipper clutch tightin all the way down and back off 1/4 turn, as for the clutch bell over heating and the bearings blue change the bearings and get a vented racing CB and the aluiminum clutch shoes I went with Hpi shoes and have no issues at all.

 

[Bankrupter]

got to lose the slipping clutch for sure! go alloy.. 1.1 spring any brand. also stay out of tall grass!!!!! Also high load areas if you can see it start to slip.