shimming the C/B

[cblock]

this is kinda a continue from my other post under tuning, but i wanted to put it under the right category.

anyways, k, ive been chewing up spurs lately starting to **** me off, thinking of a metal one.
but i know how all you say keep it plastic, its cheap and gives a bit of a weak point.
thing is its too much of a weak point IMO. lol
or maybe my mill is just puttin out too much torque.
i mean its only the stock X so i wouldnt think so, after reading and seeing what you guys have and the kind of mods you run.

anyways, my question is where does a person put the shims for the C/B
is is on the outer side of the bell or inside the bell somewhere.
I'm starting to think ive got way too much play in the C/B and wondering if thats why i keep chewing spurs.
i feel pretty confident that my mesh is good, ive followed the directions on site about meshing.
i have noticed my spurs can wobble very slightly, so maybe thats it too.

other question is how rounded should the teeth be on the stock C/B?
should it have good points on it like a new spur? or are they suppose to be slightly rounded?

anyways, thanks for any input. ive owned the X for maybe 3 - 4 months and love every min i can get out of it, don't mind the tinkering, always enjoy taking things apart, its just lately i seem to be doing more of it then actual bashing.

well thanks for the read i know its kinda long.

 

[cblock]

k now I'm ****ed off, not even a full tank on the new spur and its already done.
GRRRRRRR..

metal here i come.

 

[RangerRock]

If you have something wrong it is just going to chew up either the spur, cb, or something else. I am on my 3rd spur gear and have right at 9-10 gallons total on the truck. Check to make sure you don't have a bent motor plate, albeoken motor mount, make sure your motor isn't sitting crooked, and that you have a good mesh. If so once it is all together you should be able to spin the spur gear without it binding up on you and it should spin smoothly. Hope this helps you some

 

[cblock]

ya i checked the spin, it was nice and free.
but upon closer look i see I'm missing two screws that hold the brackets under the engine plate to the chassis
prolly way too much movement on the engine.

 

[Larsenracing]

OK bud sorry I didn't see this sooner.

The reason to shim the CB is to take the forward and back motion out of it, this is not necessary but does take the slot out of it, it is also mostly to help with making the teeth line up better meaning the whole width of the tooth to meet the whole width of the tooth on the other gear.

What shoes are you running, if you are running the black nylon or whatever stock shoes get ride of them and go to alum shoes right away. You may be cooking the CB and melting the plastic.

The next thing the CB can and will wobble a bit but you don't want much if its a lot take off and check bearings, more than likely just replace with something better the stock bearings are crap!

Mesh is a huge part of this. Make sure there is less than 1mm of slop between gears, check by holding spur firm in place and rotation CB. you want there to be a little slop to much is bad and to little isn't good meaning rolling hard or rough movements.

Make sure when setting mesh to rotate the spur all the way around as they are not always 100% true.

As far as rounded teeth go you want them to be in good shape on both spur and CB. If there are sharp edges it will kill the plastic.

Be patent you will get there. It takes practice and the right set up once you get it once you will have no problem in the future.

 

[Larsenracing]

Definitely replace the screws and check the motor plate for cracks or bends. You also want to check all other bolts on engine mounting and all.

Make sure when you are placing the mesh that the motor is sitting square to the chassis as well.

25 is on the right path with this as well.

 

[cblock]

k, thanks guys, its just getting really really frustrating.
all i wanted to do was bash a little.

 

[Larsenracing]

Just look over the lists 25 and I created. Do all those things and you should be fine. This will not cost much other than switching to Alum shoes if your not running them and you can get them for about $25.

I tend to stick to the Jammin or OFNA ones because they work great and they hold up well and they come with both springs 1.0mm and 0.9mm's. Run the heavier ones. They are also simple unlike figuring the NOVA ones out but they are great as well because you can tune them to your liking.