Sealing engines

[Derekpike]

I'm about to reluctantly admit that I have not sealed a single one of my RC engines. With that being said, I have a new LRP in the box that I want done right from the start. I've seen the excellent write up on how to seal engines. My question is do I put the green slime on the carb screws right away, or do you wait to tune your motor and figure out what the "final" carb settings will be? I say "final" settings in quotations as we all know there is no such thing as a final tune, but you will have a good idea of where these settings need to be in due time.

Engine sealing article I'm referencing:

https://www.hpisavageforum.com/threads/nitro-engine-sealing.15150/

 

[Derekpike]

I have no idea what those attached .png files are. So disregard those.

 

[Jam Racing 1]

The green slime will stay on the needle o rings a long time, it actually makes tuning easier caz the o rings glide more easily in the bores, a little goes a long way so just enuff to lube and that is it......

 

[GAJ]

Use the green slime at time of sealing, or anytime.

 

[olds97_lss]

The green slime helps keep the o-rings from drying out as well.

Every LRP engine I've had has had a loose screw or two somewhere on them. So, it's a good idea to tear them down, wipe them out to remove any aluminum filings anyway. Sealing is just preventative maintenance.

I've torn down, cleaned out and sealed every engine I've bought. Except one... was an LRP28 I bought in the morning, installed and broke-in in the afternoon. By tank 8/10, it started acting weird and running bad. Noticed oil all over the chassis under the engine. The backplate was almost falling off the engine.

 

[Derekpike]

I have a brand new lrp 30 spec 4 and as soon as I get off of these 12 hour shifts with only one day a week off, I plan on following the tutorial I linked above. I just bought a Savage XL and the LRP 30 to go in it. Got the XL for $250 shipped and the LRP for $130 shipped. I couldn't pass either of them up.