Savage XL Will not start

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Yeah, once it loosens up, yo u could always then throw the pull-starter back on.
 
Lightningfastrcman said:
The only problem is it's a giant pain in the rear to take the roto start thing off. There's barely any room behind the engine, and the engine actually goes underneath the right TVP.
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Usually doing that kind of thing I remove the engine, a linkage and 4 screws and the pipe mount and I have it on the bench ready to be worked on... otherwise doing it your way I would end up throwing the whole thing across the road and forget it :lmao:

Invest in a set of decent hex drivers and make it easy on yourself.....
 
Believe me, it is frustrating trying to get those four screws, but if I took everything apart like that I'd probably just mess it up even more and just have 2 paperweights. Heck, if you look at this thing the wrong way it could explode into a billion pieces. I do take off the pipe, though. That helps a little bit.
 
Have been trying with the roto start" it turns over really easy with the glow plug out of there, btu as soon as I put the plug in, it just doesn't want to turn over. It turns over a little bit, very slowly, and the roto start struggles. Even with the glow plug loosened almost all the way out. It definetly doesn't turn over fast enough to start the engine. I tried e-mailing HPI about it, but that was weeks ago and I still have heard nothing from them. The engine should be pretty loose, I've run it through a good 5 break in tanks and another good 4-5 tanks of full running. Any other suggestions? Will I have to replace the sleeve or something like that?
 
sounds as if your rotostart battery is not fully charged.... recharge it and try to start it while the battery is warm and fully charged.....
 
I had just fully charged the roto start when I tried it I believe. The gumming up thing is possible, I will take the head off and clean it out. Since the roto start effects are mirroring the pull start effects I assume the roto start battery has nothing to do with it. I will recharge and make sure it is full before trying again.
 
You may want to pull the head off and inspect the sleeve. I had a k4.6 that I hydro locked and damaged sleeve and piston. Sounds like very similar symptoms to what mine had.
 
Okay, it still seizes up a little, but I have got it to turn over normally with everything in. Now I just need to see if I can start it.
 
Well, I ran into another problem. OWB is out again. I'm starting to think the engine is cursed, doomed to have one problem after another, never to run again for all eternity.
It's been such a hassle to deal with, and I don't really see any reason to keep trying to get it to run if it's just going to keep having problems. I've heard the 5.9 is know for not holding a tune and having constant problems like this and I'm thinking about trying to replace the engine with something of a bit more quality.
 
I hear great things about the LRP engines. They go for about $150. There are 160-170 at Tower Hobbies, so I'm sure with some shopping, you could find it cheaper.
Hopefully the issues you're having won't turn you away from nitro altogether.
 
The Emperor said:
I can feel your anger. The truck is defenseless. Take your wallet. Strike nitro down with all of your hatred and your journey towards the brushless side will be complete!
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I think that's how it goes...

Just being silly. No zealot like a convert...
 
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No, definetly not leaving nitro. I love my electrics but even from the five times I ran it the Savage is my favorite. I looked at the LRP .32 engine, it's right around the price of the 5.9 at just aunder $200. I've heard it's a pretty good engine and it looks like a good step up for the Savage. Any other reccomendations on upgrade engines? Anything from Novarossi or Picco, anything like that? I've heard a lot about people dropping those engines in to Savage XL. I wouldn't know a thing about those engines.
 
Nova and Picco have huge followings. Personally, I lean towards LRP for the price point. But in all honesty, you can't really go wrong with any of them.
 
Well, I installed the LRP engine into the truck a few days ago, and I can already tell that it made a huge difference in terms of quality. Starts up within 5 pulls. Easy to tune. Runs consistently. Got the break indone within two days rather than two months like last time (although that could have just been the weather.) Oh yeah, and a lot more power. Somehow managed to do a double backflip off of the side of a playground/railroad tie thing. However, I will keep the old engine and see what I can do for it. With any luck I'll at least get it running again.
 
Hey, can someone help? I've got this problem with the LRP engine where at full throttle it wants to over-rev and sputter. It also stops giving full power to the wheels, so it goes slowly at full power. Pretty much anything over 3/4 throttle makes it do this. Everything under that is pretty much okay. Any idea why this is happening and how I can fix it?
 
If the revs are picking up, you are most likely lean on the HSN. Do the revs drop off immediately when you release the throttle? If they do not, you are too lean. Adjust 1/12 of a turn ccw to richen then try another run. Keep adjusting in very small increments until situation improves. If the situation is getting worse with these adjustments, go the other way and lean out. Do you know the temp after a WOT run?

Remember rich is safer than lean.
 
I don't know the temps. Would the over revving be contributing to the problem of the car losing power to the wheels like I described?
 
It sounds like a lean issue, but loss of power to the wheels could be a mechanical issue with slippage in the drivetrain. Check the slipper, tighten it down. Check all of the set screws etc. Transmission slipping?
 
I haven't taken it apart but by the looks of it everything in the transmission and drivetrain is fine. I'll try richening it up a bit later.
 
Well that helped a bit but still it's messing up. The engine is more stable now but it still doesn't give mich power at full throttle. Should I try tightening the slipper clutch?
 
The general concenses on the site is that the slipper should be all the way tight " locked down". HPI manual says to tighten, then back off a quarter or half turn to prevent drivetrain damage. You will have to make your own decision on this. Try to accelerate from a stop and see if the slipper is slipping, if the spur gear is spinning and the truck is not moving, it is slipping too much.

Nitros are a lot of fun, but can be extremely frustrating. I have had a nitro vehicle for 15 years and still go back to basics when I am having issues. Hopefully some other members can provide additional assistance.
 
I found that when mine was too loose, it would slip in 2nd gear but not first gear. The higher the gear, the more strain there is on the slipper. When you have a high torque engine with tall gearing, your pushing a slipper to it's limits. I run an HPI steel spur on mine with the spring fully compressed and 17/47 gearing. This seems to hold fine with the LRP30 so far. I'll probably go up to an 18T bell at some point.
 
Lightningfastrcman said:
Hey, can someone help? I've got this problem with the LRP engine where at full throttle it wants to over-rev and sputter. It also stops giving full power to the wheels, so it goes slowly at full power. Pretty much anything over 3/4 throttle makes it do this. Everything under that is pretty much okay. Any idea why this is happening and how I can fix it?
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It sounds like your running it to lean turn the high speed needle counter clockwise quarter of a turn
 
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