Savage xl clutch

[Skyline1473]

hi
I'm new to this so please bare with me. Melted another spur which is my third one but noticed my clutch shoes weren't aligned looking at the cb so took it off for inspection and this is what i found bearing stuck on shaft melted due to heat any suggestion why this happened. Spacers were raised in the centre can anyone suggest how i can remove this please.
Thanks.

 

[Jam Racing 1]

Well from what I see somehow that center nut holding on the flywheel has been chewed up by something. so I would hold the flywheel with a pair of channel lock type pliers and remove the flywheel nut... it should remove in a ccw direction... if it is too chewed up you may have to replace the part....

Look at section 4 page 28 in the manual I linked and go from there.....

https://www.hpiracing.com/assets/do...als/115894_vol02_savage_xl_5.9_rtr_060415.pdf

 

[Skyline1473]

Ive orderd a hardened steel 52t spur to go with my 16t racing clutch bell. With that combination will i get top end speed or better acceleration.

 

[Skyline1473]

PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!
Ive replaced the clutch shoes with aluminium shoes but have noticed the spring wont click into the groove on the nut but ive pushed it in. Will that be ok. When i pull out the clutch shoes by hand they wont go back to original position but they close up 2mm out from starting position, will that be ok.

 

[X]

PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!
Ive replaced the clutch shoes with aluminium shoes but have noticed the spring wont click into the groove on the nut but ive pushed it in. Will that be ok. When i pull out the clutch shoes by hand they wont go back to original position but they close up 2mm out from starting position, will that be ok.

Can you post pictures of this? If the springs are not seating correctly, there is an issue. Is this a positioning issue? Perhaps you need a washer behind the nut?

 

[olds97_lss]

I'm somewhat confused as to what was in the first photo that was wrong... Just looks like an odd flywheel nut to me with a tapered recess for the clutch springs to sit in.

As for your question regarding "better acceleration", we'd need to know what your gearing was before. You didn't say what spur you were running before. Looking at the first photo, it appears your running an LRP engine of some sort. To me, depending on tires, 52/16 is very low gearing (high torque) for any LRP28 on up. I ran 47/17 with an LRP28S3 and it would pull wheelies pretty easy in first gear. I'm about to install a 47/19 with my LRP30S2 as it's a wheelie machine with 47/18.

I'm running BP diffs though, so maybe my gearing out of the diff is a bit lower than stock. I'm also running traxxas 3.8" chevrons which are similar in size/diameter to stock tires. Just less sidewall.

Just did the math, the BP diff is .0855 lower than standard diffs (3.3076:1 vs 3.2222:1) which is only a little more than 1 tooth on the spur different when running 47/18 (48.54/18 would be the difference), so not nearly the difference compared to your gearing and mine.

 

[GoFastt76]

Ive orderd a hardened steel 52t spur to go with my 16t racing clutch bell. With that combination will i get top end speed or better acceleration.

Acceleration

 

[bifftit]

if you have probelms getting the spurgear/clutch bell mesh right , your just going to waste more money when you goto a steel spur. without the knowledge to properly mesh, you are now going to fry both the clutchbell gears AND the Spur.
better learning to mesh with a plastic gear thats cheaper to replace than a more expensive metal spur and bell.

when the mesh is properly set, a plastic Spur with give hours of runtime before having to be replaced