Savage X wheels binding

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Jam Racing 1 said:
So with the front and rear ends removed from the chassis wheels and tires attached they are working without any binding at all??? the tranny spins smoothly without any drive bones attached to them ??
But when all together you have the binding??
I would sure like to have that sitting on my bench so I could go thru it, because I am thinking something is bent causing this to happen.....one last question, have you had the tvp plates on a flat surface to check if anything is bent or twisted out of shape ??? sorry for all the questions, but ya got me stumped right now, and I have 30+ years playing with all kinda RC stuff and there just has got to be something you are overlooking......
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Exactly right, with no dogbones everything is smooth as butter. With either the front or rear dogbone everything is fine as well. The transmission spins very smoothly. I have checked my tvps for flatness and my dogbones to make sure they were not bent. I even put a whole new set of dogbones in just in case. I am completely stumped and very frustrated that nothing has made any difference. If I lived close to you I would definitely bring it to you to look at but at this point I guess it will be rwd until I can get it figured out.
 
one thing I just thought of is dogbone length on these trucks are you sure they are not going too deeply into the cups causing the binding to happen ??? maybe too many orings in one of the cups ? should be only one each side in the diff drive cup and the axle cup ??? do the bones float freely when assembled ??
 
Jam Racing 1 said:
one thing I just thought of is dogbone length on these trucks are you sure they are not going too deeply into the cups causing the binding to happen ??? maybe too many orings in one of the cups ? should be only one each side in the diff drive cup and the axle cup ??? do the bones float freely when assembled ??
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All the cups have the correct 1 ring as you mentioned, and all the dogbones have a little slack to them. None are tight they all have some wiggle room back and forth in the cups.
 
sure is something weird happening thats for sure... wish I could help more, sux having to pay someone to help locate the trouble.....
 
Ya I am not sure if they will charge me or not but if they do I will make sure they tell me what the issue is so that I can let you all know. I have literally had the truck apart about 10 times in the last 2 days trying to figure it out so I just hope they can figure it out.
 
So after messing with it a little more it looks like the issue is in the rear diff. I guess both rear diffs are binding up, even though they feel pretty smooth. are the front and rear diff the same? I am going to try swapping the other front diff to the back and see what that does.
 
Yes they are the same, just one mounts inside the case opposite the other, there should be a tab inside the case so ya don't put it in backwards... make sure the pinion is moving freely and has same number of teeth on each end also...
 
Looks like I'll be ordering a diff. The other set I have is the old style and is geared different. Is there anything I should check to see if they diff is salvageable?
 
probably just the bevels inside the diff, take off the 4 screws holding on the main gear and look at the gears inside.... if it is bad you will know due to missing teeth or broken gears if thats the deal, then cannibalize the other for the bevels and build it as the manual suggests using all the right shims in the proper places....
 
Wow I really don't get it...I have the rear bulk head stripped almost completely down again and if I partially attach it it rolls freely and all dogbones spin great...guess I'll put it back together 1 last time and see how it goes..
 
I have to wonder if the locating tab is missing and you are installing the diff backward allowing it to rub on the remains of the tab causing the diff to bind up.....Do you have the manual for the truck ??
 
Yes I do, the tabs are still there and I have put it together exactly to the manual. Both differentials spin very smoothly with no load and I am putting the rear back together now. Hopefully it was just something extremely weird and it will work now.
 
As soon as I start screwing the back all together onto the tvps, the binding comes back..guess I will be checking them again.
 
well at least ya know now it is related to the rear , so start there, possibly it is binding in the bearings due to too many shims behind a bearing.... time to disassemble that rear diff and check all the parts inside the bevel area...
 
I just got it together and had the same issue so I started to swap the tvps with the savage 25 tvps. As soon as I put the left side on if looking at the rear, no more binding. I placed my x tvp on a glass table to check it it has a very slight raise in the middle. I didn't think that would be enough to cause these issues but with nothing else changed it is obviously the tvps.
 
BOOM there ya go, things have gotta be aligned otherwise they get out of whack on these rigs.....
 
I would like to purchase new tvps since that was the issue, should I go with the lcg ones or just stick to stock? Or even go to xl ones? I mostly just bash but good handling is nice too.
 
Lots of those depend on you, for bashing the savage is just tough as it is, but there are a ton of mods for it so ya have gotta decide that for yourself.... some like it a bit longer and lower some don't, I prefer to run the stock length tvp's and just beat the snot outta mine.....
a couple good upgrades are a skid for the center and using some different wheels with a bit more offset, RPM has a nice selection of those available.....
 
Here are a few pics of the truck as it sits now with the old tvps. There is also a pic of my revo but since this is the savage forums I thought it was appropriate to have the savage running it over ;-)






Right now it has rpm front a arms, big bore shocks, 3 speed, steel 49t spur, 16t clutch, os30vg, dual steel brakes, and a wheelie bar. I want to get the center skid to keep stuff from getting tossed in there or landing on the center too bad. I don't like to buy a lot of upgrades that I don't need, just replace it with better stuff when it breaks. I do have some integy rear hub carriers on the way to get rid of the toe links since I've broken those a few times. I will probably just stick with the stock tvps until I can try some others out or at least find some good comparisons because I do like how it drives now.
 
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I'm a bit confused as to how a tvp can make running gear bind, even with a slight bow they will be forced to straighten up when screwed down tight
 
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GIRLYPANTS said:
I'm a bit confused as to how a tvp can make running gear bind, even with a slight bow they will be forced to straighten up when screwed down tight
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I could see it happening if the damage/ bow was at the bottom section of the TVP. No screw holding it to anything and fairly easy to bend. It really wouldn't take much to bind.

Charbo, it would help our curiosity if you could get a picture of the bowing.
 
I will take some pictures of the tvps later. I don't see how the tiny bow in it caused the issues either but with the s25 tvps being the only thing different the truck is fine now.
 
Same thing happened to me. Can't really explain why, but I remember that I had tightened one TVP all the way down before putting the other on. So, i loosened the screws on each side, just so both TVP's would have some play in them for a minute...then tightened them down as evenly as I could. Then the truck rolled smoothly. Sorry it's not an exact reason for the binding, but I hope it helps.
 
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