Savage X stalling a lot.

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gordohigh

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Hi all, I am new to this forum, and new to nitro trucks/cars. I have just finished the "break in", on my new savage x and have some questions for you "seasoned", drivers.

OK, here is what I did. I ran the first tank thru at an idle, and all went well. I was using "top fuel", 20%, and the glo-plug that came with my savage x.

After my first tank, (actually I ran almost two tanks at an idle), I ran 4 more tanks at 1/4 to 1/3 throttle doing circles and figure eight's.

Next, I started to "tune" according to the instructions that came with my truck.
I have gotten to the point where my truck runs awesome, and I see blue smoke as I run thru the circuit. It is shifting perfectly, doing wheelies, (I only did this twice), and the temps have been monotered at 227* to 257* throughout the later stages of this part. I have turned the high speed screw an eight of a turn until I got the desired results, without going over the 250-260 range, and the truck has good power and acceleration.

My main problem is that it stall's a LOT! If I apply any brake, it stalls. And, If I come in for a temp check, it stalls. It pretty much stalls all the time. I have the Idle turned up, (on the trim adjustment on the radio), and it is a little too much because the truck doesn't want to come to a complete stop all the time. When I turn the trim down so it is idleing, It stalls.

I have tried leaning out the low speed jet to no avail, and also tried adjusting the idle adjustment too and still no joy.

This is frustrating to say the least, because my time is being spent with the glo-plug ignitor, and starter for the most part.

I could use some help on this, as I have followed the instructions to a tee, and still having stall problems. Maybe it is still not broken in enough and I am expecting too much too soon?


Any suggestions are welcome, and also, I am a new member, so, thanks to the owner and moderators for this great site.

PS, I am new to nitro models, but have some experience in the electric helicopter area. I have a few big and small heli's that I have been flying for about a year and a half.

Sorry for the lenghty post, but trying to give some info for some help, thanks, gordo
 
One other thin, I have seen a couple of air bubbles in my fuel line. I have only seen this a couple times, and at the time, the tank was almost full, but I know you can't have air in the line so wonder what could be causing this? Could the quick Run just before this *beat*, a bubble in the line?

Anyway, I don't think this is the main problem, but, It could be a contributor to it. Thanks for any help, gordo
 
Thanks for all the info most people don't give that much,.. Did your hobbie sitore give you the TOP FULE.. I would ditch that and go w/ something else, I have had bad luck w/ top fule and would not run it in any of my engines ever again...

here are some examples click on the links.....

Sidewinder

Trinity

Odonnells .. I use this, the link isnt working for me sorry

byron


also might want to change your glow plug to a hotter one like a mc59 for starters

http://www.tornado-products.com/
 
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sounds like the Idle screw behind the carb needs turned up a little. With the air cleaner off adjust the slide to stay open about 1mm be sure the trim on the transmitter is centered . If it still stalls under braking adjust the Idle a little more Good luck and keep us posted.
 
I'll try some different fuel and try the idle screw a bit more too. My LHS has top fuel and Byrons racing fuel, (I think that was the name of it), Is the Byrons any good? The only gallons they have are 25% nitro, is that a good mix, or do I need to look elseware? Thanks for the reply's so far, anymore ideas welcome, thanks, gordo
 
I don't think it's the fuel, I think your idle, low end, throttle trim is out of whack. Turn on your radio and remove the air filter. With the radio on take your finger and push the carb slide (it's where your low end is) push it in. If its adjusted properly it shouldn't move at at. I have to cut this short I have to go, maybe someone else can pick up where I left off.
 
gordohigh said:
I'll try some different fuel and try the idle screw a bit more too. My LHS has top fuel and Byrons racing fuel, (I think that was the name of it), Is the Byrons any good? The only gallons they have are 25% nitro, is that a good mix, or do I need to look elseware? Thanks for the reply's so far, anymore ideas welcome, thanks, gordo
Click to expand...

I run both Traxxas Top Fuel and Byrons 20% and 30%, none of which as given me any problems.
 
Ok man first off i'm not trying to sound like a d!(% but carb problems are hard to troubleshoot over the internet due to the fact that the weather is different their then it is here. so here is my best suggestion read you manual and reset all of your settings back to stock warm up your truck and go from their. Make SURE the motor is at operating temp before you start adjusting the carb. If not it will not do much good due to the fact that when the motor is cold it runs different then it dose when its up to temp. Also you might want to seal your motor could have an air leak and check you exhaust gasket that could be a problem if it is torn or something of that nature. But like i said i would set the carb back to stok and try that if that dose not work pull the motor and seal it up then try again. Sorry if i came across as being mean about it.
 
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I just never had any luck w/ top fuel that's why I made the suggestion, But x25 is right, set them back to stock settings, which is probably flush and go from there, KEEP US UPDATED OK !!!
 
Fxstrongside said:
I don't think it's the fuel, I think your idle, low end, throttle trim is out of whack. Turn on your radio and remove the air filter. With the radio on take your finger and push the carb slide (it's where your low end is) push it in. If its adjusted properly it shouldn't move at at. I have to cut this short I have to go, maybe someone else can pick up where I left off.
Click to expand...


OK, I think we are to something here. I did remove the filter and with the throttle trim centered, I could push the slide in. I adjusted the Idle screw to the point where it was neutral and I could not push it in.

Now, with my throttle trim centered, this left me with a bit more than 1mm, more like 2mm, so I adjusted the radio trim a little bit off center to get it to about 1mm. (Is this correct?)

Sounds like this could be the problem, and I won't be able to run it untill tomorrow, so If anyone can elaborate on this anymore, please do as I think this is my problem. Thanks a bunch.

One more off topic question, my stock radio glitches a lot. How many have upgraded to a 2 or 3 channel spektrum radio to stop the glitchy stock am radio, and is it worth it. I have a DX7 for my heli's, and am very happy with it. Thanks for all the help so far everyone, gordo
 
Should I not worry about having a bit over 1mm open at neutral trim, because If I use the radio trim to close it to 1 mm from 2, (as it looks like I cant manually adjust the carb Idle to less than 2mm), I can then push on the slide and it moves.


I guess what I am asking is, can the slide be manually adjusted to close the opening in the carb less than the 2mm it is at, without damaging anything.

I still haven't run the motor, but don't want to go to the field/track until I fully understand this. Thanks, gordo
 
OK, Guy's, I think I have a monster truck...>grin<...hehe!

I went to the field this afternoon, and tried out my new DX2, and used some of the advice you all gave me.

My truck never stalled (except towards the end), after adjusting things as I was told, and was able to use my brakes. Good thing because it was runnig great, and was able to lean it out a hare more, WITH WHEELIES...WhoooooHooooo!

This thing is running strong. Thing is, we had a cold front push thru florida, and the temps were around 60*, with a wind chill of around 50*, or a bit lower. I know, that's not really cold, but It will affect the trucks running condition.

The DX2 is totally awesome though, and I was able to dial in the steering and such so well. I did notice the 2 times it did stall, I had to dial in some throttle subtrim to start it, but all in all it was awesome, and will get better as the engine wear's in a bit more!!

I have somewhat of a handel on this baby now, so thanks to all who contributed to my success!! A big thanks to all, yea baby!!
 
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Just got home tonight, glad to hear it ran better. Don't be afraid to dink around with your trim and such.
 
Had another good run yesterday evening and had to richen the mix up a bit as the temps were climbing to 270~280 because the night before the weather was much cooler.

It is amazing how much longer a tank last's compared to the breakin tanks. What is the max temp most of you all are seeing. I know the temp is very important, but It seems like they will change somewhat from day to day, and also the times of day you run the truck. I am also wondering if the temps will go down a bit once the piston is worn in and seated completely.

All in all I am quite pleased with the performance of the Savage X. I put the stock HPI Wheelie bar on mine and I know it has already saved me from flipping a couple of times. Thanks Guy's, gordo
 
Don't tune by temps, tune by making sure you have a good solid smoke trail and tune by performance. If you engine gets over 300 I would say your getting too hot. Some engine like to run 270-280 so no worries. As SJ said temps will desend around the first gallon. By the way what engine are you running? I think you are running the stock F4.1, great motor. My temps with that motor where any where from 180-230.
 
Yes, I am running the stock F4.1 and the glo-plug that came with it, (I think it is a #5).

I have a good smoke trail, but was wondering about the temps, so thank's for the answere. I will be at a gallon soon so looking forward to the final tuning stage, although I realize the tuning is never over.

On another note, I stripped down the 9.6 8 cell battery pack that came with my DX7 radio, and installed the 8 1.2v cells in my DX2 radio, and after charging it went up to 11.6 volts. I will let you all know how the run time goes, hoping this will work out so I don't have to invest any more money in that department. Are the servos that come with the DX2/DX3 good for any thing? Thanks again, gordo
 
Battery on the DX2 is holding up good. I have run the savage x several times in 3 trips to the track and still has a good amount of charge left, so I'm happy with that!

Also, my truck is running strong. I have been bashing and spinning around a bit. Even flipped it twice with no damage. I finally put the body on and I have to say this is one tuff truck!

My last trip out was on a deserted dirt road, and I had a blast doing wheelies and spinning doughnuts and just ripping up anything in my path. Awesome performance in this stock savage x. Lots of fun...>G<..
 
O'Ya, wanted to say that I put the crash cage on, and had to trim the body a bit on both sides where the crash cage comes into contact with the body shell.

I used a small drum sander on my dremel and it cut it out perfectl without making anything look bad. I am so happy I decide to put the cage, (stock one that came with the kit), on. This truck is awesome!
 
try turning the head on the servo or adjust the linkage from the carb to the swivel the measurements are in the manual I had the same headache worked for me
 
i had the same problem so i took apart the carb and checked it and cleaned it out then i did the pinch test thats were u pinch ur gas line after u tune and ajust and the engine should shut off after 3 seconds with the rpm's staying the same if it takes more than 3 seconds to shut off then u need to adjust the carb some more also just run the truck and be patient its a new engine and try to get some after run oil cuz its saves engines and makes them start ALOT easyer
 
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