Savage x 4.6 problems

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Taz86

Taz86

Active Member
Messages
55
Hey,
I don't know why I have all this problems in my car, there is only a week that I have it and I've already changed and replaced parts..

First thing to got broken is a plug, now I replaced it and it's works.
Than the spur gear got broken by getting something between the wheels, replaced it also and bought a spare wheel to have.
Now after the spur gear replaced I took it for a ride and it seems like the 2nd gear isnt pushing in and I'm giving it full throttle in the pedal.

I've played with the screw and it seems that the 2nd gear is now getting and the cars goes good but not as it was.
Than when the car goes again to 2nd gear and I give it more gas suddenly I have only steering and no throttle or brake.

I'm thinking it's that servo problem that got burnt or broken, not sure.
But guys, It's really *censored* me off, I do a ride and part goes off, broken, burnt or other..
After my spur gear replace I'm not even giving the car what it can do, give it half gas, going slow on turns, off road and on road..

Can anyone tell me what is wrong? I've no idea why all the problems for a only a week age car.
Please help and again thanks alot..
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Well things do break , have you checked the slipper setting if ya lost a spur then possibly the slipper is too loose and not allowing 2nd gear to engage....
 
Jam Racing 1 said:
Well things do break , have you checked the slipper setting if ya lost a spur then possibly the slipper is too loose and not allowing 2nd gear to engage....
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Hey man thanks for the reply.

By saying slipper what do you mean?
What part is this?
The spurgear was replaced in the shop not by me if it changes anything..

Thanks ;)
 
The slipper is behind the spur, it is designed to absorb driveline shock and to help limit wheelspin in certain conditions. you do have a manual for the truck right, I suggest reading it thouroughly to famarilze your self with vehicle operation and maintenance
 
Yes I do
I am reading it from time to time.
The thing is that the shop guys replaced that part not me so it's okay no?

Also if I don't have a movment of the throttle and brake it could be another part than the servo?

Thanks
 
Taz86 said:
Yes I do
I am reading it from time to time.
The thing is that the shop guys replaced that part not me so it's okay no?

Also if I don't have a movment of the throttle and brake it could be another part than the servo?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Not necessarily. People make mistakes, some are flat out incompetent. You'll have to take the time to learn maintenance and tuning in this hobby. If you are looking to just run amok with no worries or effort, nitro RC's are not the hobby for you.

As to your throttle/brake issue. If the servo turns, and you don't get full movement, then it probably needs to be readjusted. Pull the horn, zero all the trim on the radio, close the carb. and start over.
 
Jr. said:
Not necessarily. People make mistakes, some are flat out incompetent. You'll have to take the time to learn maintenance and tuning in this hobby. If you are looking to just run amok with no worries or effort, nitro RC's are not the hobby for you.

As to your throttle/brake issue. If the servo turns, and you don't get full movement, then it probably needs to be readjusted. Pull the horn, zero all the trim on the radio, close the carb. and start over.
Click to expand...
Yeah you are right.. ;)
I don't except not having problems but the thing is that I thought it will be after sometime from buying the car, like a month or more.
Not after one week I own it.

Anyway not sure what isnt working with the servo when I turn it on the throttle lane isnt moving at all.
When I move it with the hand its very tuff.
I will try what you said and will update..

Thanks
 
Reading the manual from time to time is just not good enough, you have a large learning curve ahead and need to be up on all the parts that make the vehicle work or else you are in for big disappointments down the road.....
 
No, unfortunately, it never ends lol. Sometimes you hit a sweet spot where you can run a few tanks, but that's with alot of experience and PM.

If it's not working at all, it may be stripped out out of synch. Try it with the linkage off.
 
Taz86 said:
Yeah you are right.. ;)
I don't except not having problems but the thing is that I thought it will be after sometime from buying the car, like a month or more.
Not after one week I own it.

Anyway not sure what isnt working with the servo when I turn it on the throttle lane isnt moving at all.
When I move it with the hand its very tuff.
I will try what you said and will update..

Thanks
Click to expand...


I do not know your level of experience with RC Trucks of the nitro type, but your manual is your best source of info on these rigs, They are NOTHING like an electric at all, it does take lots of time and fiddling to get things just right, my son bought a brand new Savage 4.6 rtr and it broke on the first tank after breakin was done so ya gotta be willing to learn and gain experience as you go along, having the hobby shop is nice but even they don't know everything about every vehicle....
 
Haha the car is awsome.. ;)

My experience in this cars is standing right now I belive on 1% hehe..

I started the whole thing a week ago so I don't really know what words like horn or in this cars mean.
Also what is the meaning of closing the carb like you said?
Actually, as you said, I will read the manual and check all the things couple of times.

I will try taking the linkage off and update.

Thanks
 
The servo horn is the arm thing on top of the throttle servo. It is just attached with one screw, so it's simple enough to pop off and verify that the servo works at all.

The carb, or carburetor, is under the air filter. There's a little dodad on the end of it the linkage pulls. With the airfilter off, looking inside, you should only see a slight gap (1mm) inside. With the linkage unhooked from the servo, it's easy to manipulate by hand and ensure everything is working properly.

My first Savage, a 25, had the back of the engine fall off it from the factory. And it's not even an HPI thing, it's just a RC thing lol.
 
If after pulling the horn off the servo it still does not move, try changing the cable going to the receiver to another channel. Such as the channel your steering servo is plugged into. If you still get no movement, your servo has issues. If it does move, then your receiver may be damaged.
 
X said:
If after pulling the horn off the servo it still does not move, try changing the cable going to the receiver to another channel. Such as the channel your steering servo is plugged into. If you still get no movement, your servo has issues. If it does move, then your receiver may be damaged.
Click to expand...

Hey man thanks alot for your reply
I will also check what you said and write if anything changed..

Thanks ;)
 
Taz! You will be swapping and changing out more parts once you get her running!
As X said, do the swap and test. I had a throttle servo die on me just the next day after I tested the truck on the bench and all was working well.
Servos can just go out on you when they feel like it.
 
rcnut14 said:
yea, it could definatly be ur servo. the throttle servo on the savage x is prone to go out fast, usually under 10 tanks. it happened to me.
Click to expand...

Okay guys, i've done all the things you said and nothing..
When I change ch steering still works.

Anyway the servo is the problem because I opened it all and it's all stuck but when I help the wheel and turn it with my hand it works, when I brake the wheel stops and than again not works..

I tested the power and all fine the servo gets power, so the engine is gone..

Anyway guys, what servo would you recommend me to buy?
Stock or others? I saw many got the hi tec servo, is it good for the model?
Also why steering servo is 20w and throttle is 10w?

Thanks again ;)
 
rcnut14 said:
I think they have different power ratings. The hitec hs 645 mg is a good servo, and so is the futaba s3305
Click to expand...

Hey
Is this servo stands longer than the stock?
Also what diff there is between metal and plastic gears? I mean the engine got broken not the gears in the servo
Thanks
 
There is no engine inside a servo, they Use a Motor, and metal gear servos have more durability and can take a bit more in the way of vibration... there are many servos available to use, but for steering you will want something with at least 200 ozin of torque, for throttle I would use one with at least 150 ozin so the brakes will work better and the throttle will open and close a bit faster also.... also think about getting a 6v hump battery to power the radio system , the servos will work better and it will last a bit longer than the stock 4aa setup the truck comes with stock.....
 
Jam Racing 1 said:
There is no engine inside a servo, they Use a Motor, and metal gear servos have more durability and can take a bit more in the way of vibration... there are many servos available to use, but for steering you will want something with at least 200 ozin of torque, for throttle I would use one with at least 150 ozin so the brakes will work better and the throttle will open and close a bit faster also.... also think about getting a 6v hump battery to power the radio system , the servos will work better and it will last a bit longer than the stock 4aa setup the truck comes with stock.....
Click to expand...

Okay I see
I also see that some servos only work with this 6v hump pack.
What mah I should get? Because I see alot and what diff it makes? If I will put more mah power I can burn the servo no?

Anyway does the steering servo and throttle servo are same but only power changes?
 
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the throttle and steering servos are rated at different torque values, as the steering needs a bit more torque to turn the tires back and forth than to open and close the throttle and operate the brakes, my advice above on what ratings to buy and of course this will depend on what price range servo you buy.... but I would replace them with the best "standard" size servo I could afford.....All servos will operate on 6 volts just fine...

the mah rating on the battery you get just refers to the capacity of the pack, ( in other words how long it will operate).... has nothing to do with the voltage of the pack.... I recommend anything 1600 mah or higher, as long as it fits the box you are good to go...
Venom among others sell the receiver packs with a charger too in a combo I would go that way...
 
Okay guys, thanks alot..
For now I'll go with Hitec-HS 645 MG servo.
About the battery pack, I'll still check it around..

Edit: By the way do you have a link to buy this pack plus charger?
I found the battery pack in eBay but not with the charger..

Thanks ;)
 
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Taz86 said:
Okay guys, thanks alot..
For now I'll go with Hitec-HS 645 MG servo.
About the battery pack, I'll still check it around..

Edit: By the way do you have a link to buy this pack plus charger?
I found the battery pack in eBay but not with the charger..

Thanks ;)
Click to expand...
Hey again
So the shop told me they can give me in the warranty the CYS-S3006 servo..
The seller also told me that this is newer and better than the HS 645 MG..

Anyway if I get a better servo that I had in stock in the warranty so I go with it.. ;)
It have a 6 kg torque.

Thanks
 
rcnut14 said:
what jam meant to say was that they come with a charger port. u still have to buy the charger itself.
Click to expand...

Oh okay man
And I can charge it with the charger of the rotor battery?
 
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