Savage X 4.6 Engine Temperature

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Keithv

Keithv

Well-Known Member
Messages
661
Location
NY
Ok guys, whats the deal with the engine temp. Everyone seems to have a different opinion. I'm still trying to get my engine tuned correctly. I don't have an infrared thermometer yet so I used my craftsman multimeter thermometer. It has a probe that I placed right against the glow plug. Will that give me the same reading as an infrared would?
The manual says the temp shouldnt go above 250F. Is that temp when the engine is at idle or after its been run around for a while. I spent a whole day trying to tune my engine, and when I finally got it running great (or so I thought) the temp was around 300+. I made the mix a little richer to cool it down but it was still up around 275F. I'm in New York and the temps are still in the 80's here.
I really need some help here. Its starting to get very frustrating trying to get this thing running correctly. Ive red all the doobee newbie links, and watched the videos on tuning. Engine temperature was never mentioned in the tuning videos unless I missed it somewhere.
Thanks in advance.
 
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Run you HPI 4.6 engine between 210 - 230 degree's. This is what
you want after it's warmmed up.

250 Is the cielling temp after it's been warmmed up.

I can't advise you on how accruate your temp prob is...

If you know anyone else that has a temp sensor,... barrow it and
compare readings.
Otherwise,.. get a infrared temp sensor to be sure.
-----------------------------------------------------------------

NOTE:
Tuning by temp is a way to be sure that your mill is not to lean, but it
is assumed that the ambeint surrounding air temp is of a normal
moderate conditions... (sunny day in the park at 77 degrees.)

You need to have a confirmed temp reading from a reliable temp
sensor before you come to any conclutions here, keith.

Who knows?... Your prob may be 75 degree's off target based
on how a nitro temp sensor opperates...

Sensors run around 25-35 bucks and are generally reliable.

I heard the the the duradrax temp sensor is a good choice.

But keep this in mind... An experienced nitro junky will disregard the
temp thing and just tune for proformance and a good cloud of
smoke when excellerating.

If you are following the HPI vids to the letter and your engine is
running good from the instructions your watching, chances ae good
that the prob is not giving you the right readings.

I hope this helpped, kiethv.
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Thanks Doobee. I thought I had it set right. It was accelerating great, wheeling and sounded smooth. I had a nice stream of blue smoke, not excessive but enough you could see it when it took off. But when I checked the temp it was scorching hot. Thats why I wasnt sure if that 250 was for the idling temp and not when the truck has been racing around. I'll have to get a infrared and see what happens. The thermometer on the meter seems accurate to the outside air temp but not sure if touching the probe to the glow plug is giving an accurate reading.
Ill post back when I get the new infrared.
Thanks again for your help.
 
Ya Its Definately Running A Bit Hot!! Could Need A Different Glow Plug (cooler) Plug Maybe I'm Not Sure!! But Yes Ive Read Several Times Any Temp Higher Then 250 Should Be Advoided If Possible! I Have The 4.1 So I Cant Compare Really But Mine Runs 230- 240 With The Body On!!

P.s...... Do U Have The Windshield Cut Out A Bit (2 Inch Hole) And The Back Window So Air Has A Direct Route To Your Engine And Air Filter ? Makes A Big Difference Actually!! Thats All I Can Think Of!!
 
Make sure you don't have a air leak .. or your break dragging or something else binding up .. All of this will cause high temps
 
SAVAGESHAUN said:
Ya Its Definately Running A Bit Hot!! Could Need A Different Glow Plug (cooler) Plug Maybe I'm Not Sure!! But Yes Ive Read Several Times Any Temp Higher Then 250 Should Be Advoided If Possible! I Have The 4.1 So I Cant Compare Really But Mine Runs 230- 240 With The Body On!!

P.s...... Do U Have The Windshield Cut Out A Bit (2 Inch Hole) And The Back Window So Air Has A Direct Route To Your Engine And Air Filter ? Makes A Big Difference Actually!! Thats All I Can Think Of!!
Click to expand...
He's not sure if the prob is correct...
It may noy be running hot.
 
SAVAGESHAUN said:
Do Air Leaks Happen Alot? I Guess I've Just Been Lucky So Far!!
Click to expand...
\
Fortunantely,.. the HPI mills have a good record for minimal air leaks with the exception of the mrn.(midrange needle)
I seal the mill anyway for good measure.

It's a good idea to seal every mill because some out there are really bad about leaks.
STS is one of those leak prone mills, for sure... Right SJ?..

I still thing this is a temp prob issue though...
I guess will see.
 
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True, He Didnt Actually Say It Was Running Hot He Was Saying He Wasnt Sure Cuz Of The Method He Was Using To Check The Temps, So I jumped the gun a bit i guess but was just letting him know what i did with my truck and most will tell u to cut out the windshield anyway, Guess The Best Suggestion Would Be Buy A Temp Gun As Was Said Earlier and try to stay away from onboard temp guages as they are way less accurate, U Can Get A Fairly Accurate temp gun For Fairly Cheap!! I don't Leave Home Without Mine Lol!! I'm Using The Hpi Racing Temp Gun Seems To Work Well But There Are Better Ones!!!!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
i would say get a temp gun and get back to us.
 
DOOBEEWHA said:
\
Fortunantely,.. the HPI mills have a good record for minimal air leaks with the exception of the mrn.(midrange needle)
I seal the mill anyway for good measure.

It's a good idea to seal every mill because some out there are really bad about leaks.
STS is one of those leak prone mills, for sure... Right SJ?..

I still thing this is a temp prob issue though...
I guess will see.
Click to expand...




My sts never leaked .. but I seal every motor tho.. Just the smallest air leake on a dm30 will screw w/ you

But my hpi 4.1 carb leaked badly.. They have/ had crappy carbs b/c some never tighten down all the way
 
OK. I got the temp gun today. Only one the LHS had was the duratrax flashpoint. Anyone know what emissivity should be set at? According to the manual Anodized engines, which I believe is what the 4.6 is, right?, the emissivity should be set for 77E. I did that, ran the truck for a while and checked the temp. It was between 260 and 276. I kept trying to adjust the HSN and LSN to get the temp down and maintain some sort of throttle response but it was still around 260. I don't remember if I mentioned the other day the clutch bell bearings both let go and destroyed the spur gear. I replaced the bearings and spur gear but the LHS only had a 49T gear instead of the stock 47T. The mesh seems very good, the bell turns smoothly and a piece of paper fits through nicely. The truck doesnt seem to shift the same though but I suspect thats because of the different spur gear. I think its shifting earlier now. Ive made several adjustments to both needles and I think I had it running fairly well. Decent snap off the line and pretty good top end. The engine did sound like it might be breaking up a bit on top, so I'm thinking it might be a little too rich. I checked the temp again and it was still around 260. So now does anyone have anymore advice for this?
 
Yea set it at 77e .. 260 temp is fine as long as you have a decent trail of smoke at full throttle . you will be fine
 
There is definitely a steady stream. I was running it around with the body off so I could make the adjustments easier. Which needle has more of an effect on the engine temp? The LSN or the HSN? Also should I be checking the temp at idle or should I race it around for a few minutes and then check it?
The shifting is due to the spur gear though right?
Thanks for all your help
 
The hsn should drop the temps the best. I run the 4.6ho and i can keep my temps about 220-230 and it runs like a raped ape. If i was in your shoes i would seal my mill. Just how i feel about it. don't mean to come off like a jerk but it sounds like that mill need to be sealed. The 4.6 should run good and be able to keep lower temps then what you are running. Also what plug are you running? That may have something to do with the temps also.
I would also suggest setting the carb back to factory settings and adjust the hsn first then when you have the top end set right set the lsn. That is just the way i did mine. Keep in mind just because that is the way i did it dose not mean it is the right way or the only way to do it. Again i am sorry if i come off sounding like a jerk.
 
Yea most likely from changing your spur .. if it's shifting to early just turn adjust the tranny clockwise about 1/2 turn
 
Not at all X25.Thats why I asked for help. I did set the needles back to the factory setting several times. I just cant seem to get the right combination. I'm running a McCoy MC8 plug. The factory settings are supposed to be flush. On the HSN there is a flange on the tube. Should the screw be flush with the flange or the top of the brass tube? The same with the LSN. If I set it flush with the casing the engine is just too rich to do anything. It will barely move off the line. Whats the most the LSN should be adjusted? Manual says the HSN shouldnt be more then 2 1/2 turns, but it doesnt say for the LSN. Weather here is still around 80. I'm starting to worry about stripping out the screws on everything if I have to keep taking it apart.
Would an air leak cause the engine to run hot?
Thanks again.
 
Site Jester said:
My sts never leaked .. but I seal every motor tho.. Just the smallest air leake on a dm30 will screw w/ you

But my hpi 4.1 carb leaked badly.. They have/ had crappy carbs b/c some never tighten down all the way
Click to expand...

Thats funny,.I seem to remember you saying that it's very important to seal the STS mill cuz they leak like crazy...

It was on a thread with Supertib giving you a hard time of it...I believe that Defiant Spaz feels the same about
sealing the STS.
And of course... It's best to seal all engines anyway. Thats the general rule.

Also... I based my HPI comment about their good track record with having few leak issues, on the 4.6. The mrn is
the main consern, here.
I'm speaking of the same mill as that this threads about.
 
I don't remember doob that was like a year ago... anyway I don't think I had that much problem w/ it.
 
I'm Sooo Glad Someone Finally Asked That Question Keithv!! I've Always Wondered What They Meant By "flush" Myself!! I Was Afraid To Ask Though Lol My Truck Runs Great But I Hope U Get A Answer As I Want To Know As Well Were Exactly Flush Is, Is It A The Tapered Colar Or Right At The Top Of Needle Tube? Mine Was Right At The Top Flush I'm Assuming Thats Correct As I Mentioned My Truck Runs Good At About 230-240
 
DOOBEEWHA said:
Thats funny,.I seem to remember you saying that it's very important to seal the STS mill cuz they leak like crazy...

It was on a thread with Supertib giving you a hard time of it...I believe that Defiant Spaz feels the same about
sealing the STS.
And of course... It's best to seal all engines anyway. Thats the general rule.

Also... I based my HPI comment about their good track record with having few leak issues, on the 4.6. The mrn is
the main consern, here.
I'm speaking of the same mill as that this threads about.
Click to expand...

Whats the MRN?
 
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