Savage Question

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copenatural

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5
Hello All

I'm new to an HPI product it was given to me and I cant seem to figure out what model of savage this is any help would be appreciated.
I attached photos.
005.webp 001.webp 002.webp 003.webp 001.webp 002.webp 003.webp 004.webp 005.webp
 
The pictures you have of the bottom look exactly like my HPI Savage 25, but I'm definitely no expert. I'll let one of the more knowledgeable people on this forum chime in.
 
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Pre-X version. Not a whole lot different between the original 21 through the 25 or SS. A few things here and there like diffs, brakes... depending on age, it may still have plastic diff cups but hopefully 4-spider diffs vs the original 21 2 spider diffs. That would be real old then. Pretty sure the SS came with dual metal disk brakes. The 25 came with 4-spider diffs... I think.

Has the older style battery box (pre-X), diff gearbox/bulkheads, old 1 piece trans case...

Tires look like big joes. Roll cage looks relatively generic, they don't hold up well, but better than nothing. I see quite a few non-OEM screws on it holding things together. Could prove problematic at some point.

If you upgrade the diffs at some point by buying XL/BP type diffs, it's goign to be a bit of a pain because the cups won't fit through the diff case halves. I found that out the hard way on a previous savage. Had to use my old diff cups becuase I had alloy diff cases I and it wasn't an X chassis, so I didn't have all the bits to switch to X style diff cases that split from the front/rear that allows the diff to slide in with the larger cups.
 
Thanks for the info! My next question is what should I use for a model ordering parts? Also do they make complete bolt kits ?
 
Thanks for the info! My next question is what should I use for a model ordering parts? Also do they make complete bolt kits ?

I would use your model's manual, likely the SS. They have exploded views and parts lists for everything.

http://hpiracing.world/assets/documents/instruction_manuals/12843_savage_ss_25_glb_m_v2.pdf

Then look up the HPI part number to get the fastener's specs, like below.

upload_2016-6-3_9-0-19.webp

Then cross reference that to a place like Mcmaster-Carr. Buy a bunch cheap!

http://www.mcmaster.com/
 
Depends on what you want to spend. For steering, I'd suggest metal geared and 150oz or more of torque. I'd suggest the same for throttle/brake use.

Savox has some that are decent for decent prices, but they can be a bit power hungry.

I use the older version of this hitec servo a lot:
https://www.servocity.com/html/hs-7985mg_servo.html

Mine are non-digital, but the specs are the same. Digital just have a higher holding power due to the higher frequency of operation. Not "waterproof" as in submersible, but has o-rings on the case and output shaft to make it very water resistant. That's the primary reason I run them. Secondary reason is they last for years of use. I currently have 4 of them in operation. 2 on my bigblock revo (steering and t/b), one for t/b on my savage and one for t/b on my small block revo. They have worked well for quite a few years. I'm guessing I have a couple that are 5+ years old.

I use one of these in one of my revos for steering:
http://www.savoxusa.com/Savox_SW0231MG_STD_Waterproof_Digital_Servo_p/savsw0231mg.htm

Very stout servo, but did cause a bit of a brown out situation until I installed a glitch buster cap on my open receiver port:
http://www.savoxusa.com/Glitch_Buster_Power_Capacitor_p/rce2474.htm

If you don't have an open port, you will need to get a Y connector to add one. It allows for a surge of voltage to be transferred more quickly than a battery pack can keep up with. This helps with higher torque servos that have a high current demand.
 
Depends on what you want to spend. For steering, I'd suggest metal geared and 150oz or more of torque. I'd suggest the same for throttle/brake use.

Savox has some that are decent for decent prices, but they can be a bit power hungry.

I use the older version of this hitec servo a lot:
https://www.servocity.com/html/hs-7985mg_servo.html

Mine are non-digital, but the specs are the same. Digital just have a higher holding power due to the higher frequency of operation. Not "waterproof" as in submersible, but has o-rings on the case and output shaft to make it very water resistant. That's the primary reason I run them. Secondary reason is they last for years of use. I currently have 4 of them in operation. 2 on my bigblock revo (steering and t/b), one for t/b on my savage and one for t/b on my small block revo. They have worked well for quite a few years. I'm guessing I have a couple that are 5+ years old.

I use one of these in one of my revos for steering:
http://www.savoxusa.com/Savox_SW0231MG_STD_Waterproof_Digital_Servo_p/savsw0231mg.htm

Very stout servo, but did cause a bit of a brown out situation until I installed a glitch buster cap on my open receiver port:
http://www.savoxusa.com/Glitch_Buster_Power_Capacitor_p/rce2474.htm

If you don't have an open port, you will need to get a Y connector to add one. It allows for a surge of voltage to be transferred more quickly than a battery pack can keep up with. This helps with higher torque servos that have a high current demand.
Well I don't need to spend a ton of money on them I just take it outside and play around with it so it doesn't need to be anything super fancy what would you recommend for that?
 
The Savage 25 came with 2-spider diffs and plastic diff cups, though I believe the 4-spider upgrade kit was available at the time.
 

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