savage hill climber

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

SAVAGEBASH

Member
Messages
11
Location
united kingom,manchester,bury
i was thinking of a new project, and i came up with a savage that could climb hills realy well by some how lowering it and makeing it really light.

Any one got any ideas.
 
anytime! and yep i agree with taking 2 shocks off each side!! i think there is a trick to shorten your shocks. i will have a look for it and post it if i can find it.
4x4
 
You can shorten your shocks by using internal limiters (fuel line on the shaft inside the shock is a common method) or making external limiting straps.
Might want to give some thought to getting extended TVP's to help keep it planted on all fours as well.
 
diff lockers as well. that way it'll grip up hill if a wheel on an axle looses grip.
i'd go with proline mulchers 40 series or std maxx paddles (i use them and they are amazin!) maybe even go really low gearing.
as far as weight, i'd be inclined to try a mid tank and have the rx stuff in hte front as well (should help prevent tipping backwards)
i'd probably run really soft springs and 4 shocks. hope that helps. dan
 
Could also run 1 shock on each side in front and run them all (and fairly stiff) in the back, that way the front wants to stay lower than the back...
 
Could also run 1 shock on each side in front and run them all (and fairly stiff) in the back, that way the front wants to stay lower than the back...

i was thinking a similar thing, and alltho the sav has a 50/50 front/rear split i dunno if it would climb as well...i reckon front and rear the same(ish) would work berrter.....?
 
In theory, I don't believe that mis-matching the suspension front to back should have any effect on the 50/50 split. The wheels should all turn at the same speed regardless of where your suspension is set.

To put it into perspective, think about suspension travel while driving, for example. Even being completely independent suspension travel for each wheel, just like almost all automobiles are doing now, the tires all continue to turn at the same speed.

As for lowering the front, I *think* that by lowering it, it should actually put more weight/down pressure on the front wheels, because it will be further from the flipping backward point, which should in turn help with traction and stability.

On the other hand, I could be wrong...lol, but with trying to keep the laws of physics in mind, I think that is basically how it should work. I haven't ever tested the theory, so I can't say from experience.

Of course, if anyone has any experience with it or if anyone has a difference of opinion, please feel free to share!!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You could also try flipping and mounting the shocks upside down. To where the shock shaft mount side is mounted to the tower and the other to the suspension arm. I've seen it done on rock crawlers to help lower the CG and/or it helps to put more weight closer to the wheels.
 
Also just thought of this. You could add stick-on weights to the tires up front. You'd put them on the rim before you mount your tires. Or add them to the inside of your wheels where tey mount to your truck. Just make sure you have enough clearance for the rims to rotate.
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top