i just finally got my savage back on the road and everything went well for about 2 tanks. then on the third it seemed as if when i stick my roto start into the back to start it nothing happens you can only haer rotor start spinning. How can i tell if the piece that the roto start goes inoto is broken or not
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savage 4.6 starting problem
- Thread starter cougar390
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Dreadnaught
Diesel Powered!
- Messages
- 1,075
- Location
- Pinckney Michigan
how many gallons have you had on the one way bearing (OWB)? what kind of fuel do you run?
if its just spinning and the engine isnt turning over, then something is wrong with the OWB
if its just spinning and the engine isnt turning over, then something is wrong with the OWB
AoD
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 429
- Location
- Hammondsville, Ohio
Yeppers, dread is absolutely right.
The way this works:
A one way bearing is simply a bearing that locks up in one direction and moves freely in the opposite direction.
Now, the rotostart is attached to this one way bearing with a gear drive inside the small housing on the back of the motor. The OWB sits on a shaft that is mechanically able to spin the crankshaft/piston assembly. Now, when the motor is running the one way spins in the free direction. During starting the bearing locks up and causes the gears to actually spin the crank in turn starting the engine.
Why these go bad?
Well, oils can actually hurt the OWB's ability to lock up in the direction that it's needed. Some problems like this have been where people have actually taken the rotostart housing off and cleaned it with putting the OWB back on the shaft backwards. Make sure the direction is correct before putting the housing back together.
Also, certain amounts of oil that actually contaminate the OWB can cause it to slip (yeah, the same way as a clutch). So under stress (such as starting) the OWB actually slips on the shaft causing it not to spin the crank shaft and resulting in an inability to start the engine.
You can take the housing off of the motor (which requires pulling the motor off of the chassis plate). Then take the OWB and soak it in a little denatured alcohol. This sometimes can clean the bearing enough to where it will work correctly. The best bet usually is to just replace the bearing in the first place. When you do however, clean the starting shaft before replacing the OWB. Clean all the parts in the rotostart housing and then put it back together.
Dirt and Oil can hurt the OWB and cause this problem; so make sure to keep things clean in there. I recommend going to autozone and picking up some high heat RTV/Silicon to make a gasket for the housing before putting it back together as it will help keep such contaminates out of the housing and in turn helping lengthen the life of your OWB.
If there's anything else I can help with, please reply bud. 🙂 And since I haven't seen you on the forums before; Welcome to HPISF!
The way this works:
A one way bearing is simply a bearing that locks up in one direction and moves freely in the opposite direction.
Now, the rotostart is attached to this one way bearing with a gear drive inside the small housing on the back of the motor. The OWB sits on a shaft that is mechanically able to spin the crankshaft/piston assembly. Now, when the motor is running the one way spins in the free direction. During starting the bearing locks up and causes the gears to actually spin the crank in turn starting the engine.
Why these go bad?
Well, oils can actually hurt the OWB's ability to lock up in the direction that it's needed. Some problems like this have been where people have actually taken the rotostart housing off and cleaned it with putting the OWB back on the shaft backwards. Make sure the direction is correct before putting the housing back together.
Also, certain amounts of oil that actually contaminate the OWB can cause it to slip (yeah, the same way as a clutch). So under stress (such as starting) the OWB actually slips on the shaft causing it not to spin the crank shaft and resulting in an inability to start the engine.
You can take the housing off of the motor (which requires pulling the motor off of the chassis plate). Then take the OWB and soak it in a little denatured alcohol. This sometimes can clean the bearing enough to where it will work correctly. The best bet usually is to just replace the bearing in the first place. When you do however, clean the starting shaft before replacing the OWB. Clean all the parts in the rotostart housing and then put it back together.
Dirt and Oil can hurt the OWB and cause this problem; so make sure to keep things clean in there. I recommend going to autozone and picking up some high heat RTV/Silicon to make a gasket for the housing before putting it back together as it will help keep such contaminates out of the housing and in turn helping lengthen the life of your OWB.
If there's anything else I can help with, please reply bud. 🙂 And since I haven't seen you on the forums before; Welcome to HPISF!
AoD
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 429
- Location
- Hammondsville, Ohio
Not a problem cougar! That's what we do on the forum. Now go get that thing back to ripping the dirt up! 🙂
I hate to say it, but RTV silicone on the rotostart housing will do nothing to help your problem...oil from the fuel leaks past the O-ring that the starting shaft runs through, in the center of the backplate. As mentioned above, the amount of oil in the fuel you use can affect how much comes in through there. Replacing the O-ring in the backplate, and using some Team Associated "Green Slime" on it helps quite a bit as far as keeping it from leaking.
Also, the safest way to clean your OWB is with WD-40, believe it or not. I don't like to use denatured alcohol or brake cleaner on them because they can, and eventually will, weaken the plastic cage that holds the rollers. Very light oils like WD-40 are actually GOOD for the rollers in the OWB, and no, it wont make it slip.
All this being said, the rotostart unit is very hard on OWB's regardless of oil contamination. From what I've seen and experienced, the only real long-term solution is to switch to a pull-start and/or replace your OWB and shaft with the OWB elimination kits on Ebay.
Also, the safest way to clean your OWB is with WD-40, believe it or not. I don't like to use denatured alcohol or brake cleaner on them because they can, and eventually will, weaken the plastic cage that holds the rollers. Very light oils like WD-40 are actually GOOD for the rollers in the OWB, and no, it wont make it slip.
All this being said, the rotostart unit is very hard on OWB's regardless of oil contamination. From what I've seen and experienced, the only real long-term solution is to switch to a pull-start and/or replace your OWB and shaft with the OWB elimination kits on Ebay.
AoD
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 429
- Location
- Hammondsville, Ohio
Exactly judge. I use denatured then oil everything with the WD. It's the best stuff on the planet. I just forgot to mention it LOL!
And the RTV will help keep some contaminates out through the housing. That's why I recommend it. One badly placed particle can cause the OWB to have problems as I've seen before! 🙂
And the RTV will help keep some contaminates out through the housing. That's why I recommend it. One badly placed particle can cause the OWB to have problems as I've seen before! 🙂
AllanQ
Well-Known Member
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- 1,731
- Location
- St. Marys, Ga
Here is a pic of the OWB(One Way Bearing)
Which is located in here:
Here is a link to what The Judge was referring to about the OWB replacement kit.
http://cgi.ebay.com/hpi-savage-one-...ryZ44028QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Hope this helps you out
Which is located in here:
Here is a link to what The Judge was referring to about the OWB replacement kit.
http://cgi.ebay.com/hpi-savage-one-...ryZ44028QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Hope this helps you out
Last edited by a moderator:
Bankrupter
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 4,792
This is a thread on the full install of this kit and it will be very helpful to you.
BTW its The Judge's thread https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5190
BTW its The Judge's thread https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5190
AllanQ
Well-Known Member
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- 1,731
- Location
- St. Marys, Ga
Which part are you looking for, the OWB or the OWB replacement kit? I just want to make sure I give you the right info.
- Messages
- 378
- Location
- Vancouver, BC, Canada
yea most likely tower hobby would have it
RangerRock
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 1,985
turn the flywheel over and see if it has pressure, I had the same thing happen, thought it was the OWB, come to find out it was much worse, the wristpin on the crank snapped off.
Although could be OWB, I have only had that problem once on an STS
Although could be OWB, I have only had that problem once on an STS
Rebel Savage X
Active Member
- Messages
- 108
- Location
- Norfolk VA
one way
I had the same problem with my 4.1 so i pulled the roto start off and found that the one way bearing had split. So I went to lhs today and picked up one and now it works like a champ.
I had the same problem with my 4.1 so i pulled the roto start off and found that the one way bearing had split. So I went to lhs today and picked up one and now it works like a champ.
You can also for a quick fix drill a small hole on top of the backplate and also on the bottom and spray some break parts cleaner in it. The OWB gets oil and grease on it so the break parts cleaner will clean it without the residue. Just a quick fix but not permanent.
beanerftw
Member
- Messages
- 15
- Location
- Denver Colo.
ok i gots a question about this. I have the K4.6 which has a diffrent owb then pictured above and I'm planning on changing the the axial .32 which I THINK has the same kind of owb. Is there a owb repacement kit for that kind of owb or is there a way to change to a "bump start" or starter box?
